Nice ink bro!!!

J

I'm reaching mechanical limitations of the ZCON in such a large box ~7 cubes at ~35 hz

Output is fantastic, but could be louder on the same power. I do like 150's at 34 hz, but tuning higher would be good.

and a smaller box, to my knowledge will increase mech handling.

Yep...

Below what frequency are you reaching mechanical limits in a 7 cf box ?

Anything above 40 hz and anything below 30 hz

You have a strange definition of mechanical...

Well, As I assume mechanical due to the noise..

as an expierment I added a somewhat larger 45 in the corner and it reduced the noise a ton.

I'm reaching mechanical limitations of the ZCON in such a large box ~7 cubes at ~35 hz

Output is fantastic, but could be louder on the same power. I do like 150's at 34 hz, but tuning higher would be good.

and a smaller box, to my knowledge will increase mech handling.

Yep...

Below what frequency are you reaching mechanical limits in a 7 cf box ?

Anything above 40 hz and anything below 30 hz

You have a strange definition of mechanical...

i should correct myself, anything around or at 40hz

SWEET!! looks like you did the perfect size for your arm.

mystery poo....please tell me im not the only one that has done and heard of this...i told some people at work about it and they thought i was crazy

Yeah I was thinking a lil smaller but Jared my tattoo guy talked me into going bigger.

Got one lined up for next week for the other arm.

If I was to move the baffle higher up so that part of the bottom of the dash (near the white volvo sticker and hood release icon) was covering a third to quarter of the mid driver from driver seat point of view, would that present any drastic problems?

I fucking hate using wood dowels and hot glue for mounting baffles, mainly because it's a pain in the ass to hold the mid in, make sure there is enough clearance, put a piece of dowel in, hot glue, and hold til harden, then move on to another dowel.

This time I'm going to try plumbers tape, I should be able to re-position the baffle with a little bit of force, and hopefully won't budge with final positioning and wrapping the fabric tightly over.

I think the higher you cross the mids the more of a problem you may have withe dash in the way. I like to use 1"x2" blocks with compound miters on them to secure my rings. Good luck Brother.

Yeah I was thinking a lil smaller but Jared my tattoo guy talked me into going bigger.

Got one lined up for next week for the other arm.

He nailed as far as fitting the body part. this can make or break a tatt.

mystery poo....please tell me im not the only one that has done and heard of this...i told some people at work about it and they thought i was crazy

Sometimes it just feels good to get the gases out. Doesnt mean there has to be turds.

mystery poo....please tell me im not the only one that has done and heard of this...i told some people at work about it and they thought i was crazy

Sometimes it just feels good to get the gases out. Doesnt mean there has to be turds.

i mean when you know it atcually came out and nothing is there...but yeah it does feel good to get the gases out

mystery poo....please tell me im not the only one that has done and heard of this...i told some people at work about it and they thought i was crazy

Sometimes it just feels good to get the gases out. Doesnt mean there has to be turds.

i mean when you know it atcually came out and nothing is there...but yeah it does feel good to get the gases out

Maybe not mystery, just super small.

Got my hands on this SoundStream Rubicon 500-2 (model RUB500-2)

Anyone got any good info or opinions on them?

Got it in a small trade.

J

Good amps, though the older US made models were better.  Thought that was the old one for a moment before memory kicked in and Google confirmed it.

I don't know if it'll be our first snow of the winter tonight. Clouds came in, but temperature is currently sitting at 3*C at 11 PM PST. Not sure it'll drop enough to change to snow. If it does, I doubt it'll still be there tomorrow afternoon.

lolololol

fuck, just when i thought i had my car fixed up.

i had a misfire on cylinder 3 and the camshaft position sensor a few weeks ago. (there was also a 3rd code, possible random cylinder misfire or a repeat of cyl. 3 misfire)

so i did new plugs and replaced the sensor.

if you remember, that's when i found this little gem

http://i277.phot

last week i replaced the valve gaskets on my own, not bad for a physics nerd haha

still have the misfire after replacing the gaskets so i got the codes read again.

p0300 random cylinder misfire and p0340 camshaft position sensor

ordered new coil boot (spark plug boots), figured i'd start by ruling out coil boots first.

any advice guys?

would purchasing an obd II scanner be any help? i wouldn't mind gambling 50 bucks on something like this obdlink sx- scan tool, if it could save me some money (avoid a mechanic).

car - oldsmobile intrigue

edit: i checked the camshaft sensor connections, everything looked good. ill pick up another sensor in a day or two, depending if they have to order it in

You can test your current sensors with a DMM to see if they are bad before wasting money on new ones. If the sensors test good then its something in the path of the signal.

I had a car that filled the plug holes with oil like that too. LOL

shit didn't think of that. too late i bought the sensor. but i measured all three (replacements and original). but i got some weird shit.. there are 3 pins; signal, power, and low.

the original and first replacement i bought have the same values when measured.

the newest one has different values. (all in the mega ohm range)

i haven't found the correct values yet. maybe i'm not searching for the right information.

i could assume that the original and first replacement are both bad, and the newest is fine. however, i dont have a scan tool to clear the code.

right now im trying to clear it by disconnecting the battery. i have access to a shitty manual from alldatadiy.com, it suggests that disconnecting the battery is not the correct way to clear that code and that it might not actually clear it.

edit: all three cam sensors have the last 4 digits of the oem part number on plastic part.

edit2: reconnected the battery after ~30 min, turned key to "on" position and still had a ses light.

drove afew miles, no change.

what do you guys think of the sensor resistance differences of the 3 sensors? 2 same, 1 different...

assuming the sensor is good, wiring would be the next issue to work out? should i make a new run of wire back to the pcm or just replace the plug?

i figure i could start by replacing the plug first.

http://troubleshootm...kp_sensor_1.php

This will explain why each sensor had different readings and how to test the whole system, not just the sensor.

As far as getting the light to shut off a few websites say the ODBll tester is the only way. As far as the computer recalibrating by driving, most ECU's/ECM's recalibrate around every 50 miles of driving. So either get your buddy to clear the code with his tool or drive 50 plus miles and see what happens. If you follow the test instuctions in the link you should have it figured out.

thanks for the link, problem is that its actually the cam sensor for a 3.5l v6. sorry i didn't mention that.

ill take it on a drive tomorrow and see what happens.

edit: i've read through most of the directions for testing the cam sensor for the 3.8l, totally different motor but the way in which the cam sensor functions is probably the same. if clearing the code fails i'll attempt to replicate the trouble shooting guide for my car.

You still haven't said what yr of car either?

haha my bad. thought it was in this mess somewhere. its a 2000.

Whopping 350kb/sec download too. Just office has taken more than 2 hours so far...

i have a hard time getting that during the evening (peak hours) most days

Got my hands on this SoundStream Rubicon 500-2 (model RUB500-2)

Anyone got any good info or opinions on them?

Got it in a small trade.

J

Good amps, though the older US made models were better.  Thought that was the old one for a moment before memory kicked in and Google confirmed it.

Haven't been able to find a manual yet.

J

If I was to move the baffle higher up so that part of the bottom of the dash (near the white volvo sticker and hood release icon) was covering a third to quarter of the mid driver from driver seat point of view, would that present any drastic problems?

I fucking hate using wood dowels and hot glue for mounting baffles, mainly because it's a pain in the ass to hold the mid in, make sure there is enough clearance, put a piece of dowel in, hot glue, and hold til harden, then move on to another dowel.

This time I'm going to try plumbers tape, I should be able to re-position the baffle with a little bit of force, and hopefully won't budge with final positioning and wrapping the fabric tightly over.

is the mid firing into the dash more so then previously? maybe you could treat the under side of the dash with some type of foam/deadening product.

here's a strange idea. what if you over lapped the woofer's mounting ring a bit with the tweeter. you might be able to bring the mid down, away from the bottom of the dash some more. maybe use have a sphere of styrofoam behind the tweeter (would have to fiberglass it)

another idea. the mid and tweet do not necessarily have to be on the same plain.

If I was to move the baffle higher up so that part of the bottom of the dash (near the white volvo sticker and hood release icon) was covering a third to quarter of the mid driver from driver seat point of view, would that present any drastic problems?

I fucking hate using wood dowels and hot glue for mounting baffles, mainly because it's a pain in the ass to hold the mid in, make sure there is enough clearance, put a piece of dowel in, hot glue, and hold til harden, then move on to another dowel.

This time I'm going to try plumbers tape, I should be able to re-position the baffle with a little bit of force, and hopefully won't budge with final positioning and wrapping the fabric tightly over.

I think the higher you cross the mids the more of a problem you may have withe dash in the way. I like to use 1"x2" blocks with compound miters on them to secure my rings. Good luck Brother.

Hmm, around 1800-2000hz. Guess I'll just have to test.

If I was to move the baffle higher up so that part of the bottom of the dash (near the white volvo sticker and hood release icon) was covering a third to quarter of the mid driver from driver seat point of view, would that present any drastic problems?

I fucking hate using wood dowels and hot glue for mounting baffles, mainly because it's a pain in the ass to hold the mid in, make sure there is enough clearance, put a piece of dowel in, hot glue, and hold til harden, then move on to another dowel.

This time I'm going to try plumbers tape, I should be able to re-position the baffle with a little bit of force, and hopefully won't budge with final positioning and wrapping the fabric tightly over.

is the mid firing into the dash more so then previously? maybe you could treat the under side of the dash with some type of foam/deadening product.

here's a strange idea. what if you over lapped the woofer's mounting ring a bit with the tweeter. you might be able to bring the mid down, away from the bottom of the dash some more. maybe use have a sphere of styrofoam behind the tweeter (would have to fiberglass it)

another idea. the mid and tweet do not necessarily have to be on the same plain.

The mid wouldn't be aimed higher and into the dash, it's more that part of the dash is just the blocking the top third of the cone from line of sight (sitting in drivers seat).

I've thought of your second idea, making them overlap, Sean was saying it would be best to put the tweeter in the center, and as close as possible to the mid (If I remember correctly).

Otherwise I thought about if the mid could be slightly tucked under the tweeter, like this:

Later today I'm going to cutout the base I made, hopefully I can pull it on and off without any issues as it replaces the stock kick panel as well. I'll glass some wood blocks to it, and mount the plumbers tape and baffle. See where I'm at.

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The winner of both the 2011 Cy Young Award-winner and the American League MVP, Justin Verlander, shared his secret to baseball success with Conan O’Brien earlier this week. It wasn’t Wheaties, it wasn’t a hard boiled egg or specific carbo-loading, instead, it’s a very specific Taco Bell meal.

The Detroit Tigers pitcher claimed he gets the same order every time — three crunchy Taco Supremes sans tomato, a Cheesy Gordita Crunch and a Mexican pizza, sans tomato. Not sure how this fella deals with the mid game diarrhea, but it’s his thing, we’re not going to question it.

Well there goes Dublin Dr. Pepper, although it will still be available on site at the bottling plant/museum

All that meat-like substance gives him super pitching powers ...

All that meat-like substance gives him super shitting powers ...

Fixed.