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Sean what camera are you using for DSLR and why?

J, same thing?

I just want to pick up on the pulse of people using them. It looks like I have a chance to win a 60D kit if I am a super rockstar.....

X2 I'm getting on the prowl for a "cheap" DSLR that I can take a variety of pics with (low light gatherings, photos of stiff I sell, landscapes, hiking adventures etc.. )

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    j-roadtatts

  • Chill- Lemme break it down as simple as I can on some of us here. The IHoP is like a big dysfunctional family. -M5 would be the uncle everyone respects and takes advice from. We may not like how he p

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define cheap?

Even if I wasn't repping Canon now I would still send you in that direction just an FYI. I think they make a much more usable product and in most price points the Canon's seam to have better features.

I have an older model, but this would be similar I think.

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_rebel_t3_18_55mm_is_ii_kit

If you want to be unique, you could get into the new generation of mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras. Sometimes they are called EVIL or gen3 digital. They are really interesting, but not fleshed out yet. Canon markets theirs to video more than stills. The coolest part about them is the smaller size. I might not instantly suggest Canon as the end all solution there, but they have some cool spin to them. Sony has it together on this front pretty well. Their glass is thought to suck in general though, but the features sound to be on POINT.

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/slr_cameras/eos_m_ef_m_22mm_stm_kit#Specifications

Ultimately Mike it is all about the GLASS. You will replace camera bodies over time most likely, but the glass less so. Think of glass as an amazing set of speakers, and the camera is the receiver. Sure they are a team, but the glass is the more expensive and much larger limiting factor. Better analogy might be the scope on your rifle. Can't shoot what you can't see right? Well in cameras where you have different lenses, not only is it the limiting factor in what you can do, it also will be a MASSIVE part of the investment. WAY WAY WAY more than the camera for most people using DSLR.

I would love to try my hand at some HDR stuff. I am not experienced enough, and would love it to be an integrated part of the camera.

Awesome! I think I'm going to pick up a nice DSLR soon.

The 5diii doesn't let you use EF-s lenses from what it looks like. That is the biggest downside....Not that you would want to neuter it with that, but if you have existing lenses already.

I'm just finally making the jump from point and shoot.

define cheap?

If you want to be unique...

Ultimately Mike it is all about the GLASS...

Cheap would likely mean a used product that is likely just better than what a experienced photographer would consider minimal.

Definitely don't want to be unique. Quite the opposite as I would like something that is tried and true.

I assumed its all about the glass :) no worries there.

A few friends of mine take a lot of pictures. No idea what they shoot, but I know that one guy recently bought a prime lens (name is 55 something or whatever, something yall have talked about in here). He loves the lens except he bought an older model with out auto focus, which currently makes it really rough for me to snap with.

Other than that i have used my dads Minolta 35mm, but I would really want digital for obvious reasons.

Sean what camera are you using for DSLR and why?

J, same thing?

I just want to pick up on the pulse of people using them. It looks like I have a chance to win a 60D kit if I am a super rockstar.....

X2 I'm getting on the prowl for a "cheap" DSLR that I can take a variety of pics with (low light gatherings, photos of stiff I sell, landscapes, hiking adventures etc.. )

I just picked up a used Sony A55 LNIB for 500 bucks shipped, you can use minolta lenses on the A frames which you can get refurbished/new/used for a real real cheap price but you have to be weary of mold/dust. I'll be picking up some minolta lenses when I get back.

I have a D300, and I like it. :peepwall:

Steak for breakfast FTMFW.

Pussy for breakfast FTMFW.

fixed

I'm going to have to start calling you Seth.

  • Admin

Exhausted, and it's gym time. Damn it.

4 inches of snow so far. It took me 5 minutes to install the studded wheel in the front of the bike and then I took it for a test. It's absolutely brilliant, brakes work, grip is great, if I hit a snow drift at speed it doesn't want to slide around like with a non-studded wheel.

All in all a very well spent $20 and 2 hours of work.

Now if I could find a knobby tire for the rear it would be great.

What size knobby do you need? In the winter I run chains and studs usually, but play on ice a lot.

26x2.something

I tried zipties quickly today but they catch on the brakes, since I didn't have time to get the brakes out of the way.

With 9-10 inches of powder I really need good traction, it doesn't work with only the front studded.

Pretty much ANY mountain bike tire will work that isn't a 29'er. Are you using a studbacker strip? Personally I really like the chains as well. Both studs and chains are a bit unpredictable on raw cement, but the combo on ice is sweet. For snow really you just need to be in the right gear and be diligent.

A 28 is pushing it sad.png

I've studded my own tire using screws.

I head you on the right gear, although starting in high gear is not trivial, especially with a road tire in the rear.

Huh? All Mt. Bike tires in the US are 26"ers. 29'ers of course not included.

For some peculiar reason I thought there are 28" Mtb's.

I'm looking for an upright compressor... enough to drive a paint gun/pnumatic sander without breaking the bank? Must be 120v standard plug...

The sander will be an air hog. I'd suggest at least a 10cfm unit. Expect to pay at least $600 new. You'll want a dryer as well if you are painting.

I'm looking for an upright compressor... enough to drive a paint gun/pnumatic sander without breaking the bank? Must be 120v standard plug...

The sander will be an air hog. I'd suggest at least a 10cfm unit. Expect to pay at least $600 new. You'll want a dryer as well if you are painting.

Yeah, I know that much, We have a guy who builds compressors next to my friends shop and I'm thinking of going that route. Not sure though.

4 inches of snow so far. It took me 5 minutes to install the studded wheel in the front of the bike and then I took it for a test. It's absolutely brilliant, brakes work, grip is great, if I hit a snow drift at speed it doesn't want to slide around like with a non-studded wheel.

All in all a very well spent $20 and 2 hours of work.

Now if I could find a knobby tire for the rear it would be great.

What size knobby do you need? In the winter I run chains and studs usually, but play on ice a lot.

26x2.something

I tried zipties quickly today but they catch on the brakes, since I didn't have time to get the brakes out of the way.

With 9-10 inches of powder I really need good traction, it doesn't work with only the front studded.

Pretty much ANY mountain bike tire will work that isn't a 29'er. Are you using a studbacker strip? Personally I really like the chains as well. Both studs and chains are a bit unpredictable on raw cement, but the combo on ice is sweet. For snow really you just need to be in the right gear and be diligent.

A 28 is pushing it sad.png

I've studded my own tire using screws.

I head you on the right gear, although starting in high gear is not trivial, especially with a road tire in the rear.

Huh? All Mt. Bike tires in the US are 26"ers. 29'ers of course not included.

For some peculiar reason I thought there are 28" Mtb's.

Nope 26" and 700c are the two hoop choices

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