There is no problem with using the bass boost to cut the frequencies. It will not harm anything. However, it will have the negative affect on the frequency response as you mentioned.

But it will all be fixed once you get the new amp and have that remote gain . If you get that Alpine receiver that has the subwoofer level control, that would also do it.

Thanks KU40.

Also, I just got the Alpine unit. Im so happy with it!. This thing is HEAVY!!!!!!!, makes me doubt if my Sony is really making the claimed 900watts RMS that it says which such a light weight...

Now, I cant wait to start using this beast

Edited December 24, 200915 yr by slim142

An amp de-gain knob is the right tool for turning down your subs.

Btw in my last post I meant the Sundown 2000D Amp, not the alpine unit lol

The screws for 1/0 gauge cables on the sundown will fit no problem with 4gauge cables that I currently have in my car? Or do I need new screws?

Btw in my last post I meant the Sundown 2000D Amp, not the alpine unit lol

The screws for 1/0 gauge cables on the sundown will fit no problem with 4gauge cables that I currently have in my car? Or do I need new screws?

It will work fine with the screws you have.

Guys

I just noticed Sundown just puts the starting and ending frequency, but doesnt state what would your LPF be if set let say half-way.

How in the world do I know where 100Hz for LPF is, 20Hz for Subsonic etc????

Guys

I just noticed Sundown just puts the starting and ending frequency, but doesnt state what would your LPF be if set let say half-way.

How in the world do I know where 100Hz for LPF is, 20Hz for Subsonic etc????

When I look at knobs like those (dont take this as being accurate or the way to do it) but I just subtract the two numbers that the knob has on it, then divide the difference by two. For example Sundown Audio uses 35-300Hz for the LPF, so 35-300= 265 /2= 132.5 would be the halfway point and the quarter mark would be 66.25. So somewhere in between the 25% and 50% turn on the frequency knob should be the region, from there on down (play with it till you get to your liking.

Yep I thought about doing that, but didnt know how accurate it would be like you said. In the other side, I thought it would be marked in the manual maybe but oh well...

Hi

Sorry to bring this topic back but I got some questions.

Im interested in the Knukonceptz wiring, I heard they are a good brand and cheap. You guys recommend them?

Also, I was looking into their 0 Gauge Amp Power Kit (http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-PK0)

I noticed they ask what fuse you want, how do I know which fuse is right for me? I think the 2000D mentioned a recommended fuse in the manual. Should I go ahead and pick what the 2000D says?

They also mention they give extra Ground cable for battery to chassis upgrade, which I believe is part of the Big 3 right?

If I do that (1/3 of the Big 3), will I be ok or do you need to do all 3 steps no matter what?

In addition, why dont they include remote wire? Is it because any wire will do the job? Wouldnt it be good to include one...?

Is there anything else I should know about this kit? Anything missing in this kit that I would need to buy separately (besides speaker cable)? Any comments on this kit?

Yes KnuKonceptz.com is an excellent company to deal with, with the amp kit I would go ahead and get the 200A fuse for that application. I personally would still get some more 1/0 gauge wire and do the other parts of the Big 3 as they will help out with the voltage. Remote wire is cheap, that should be the last thing to steer you away ( I usually just go to the store and get some 18-22 gauge wire for that). Oh yeah and depending on what rca's(knukoncpets klarity rca's) you have they come with a remote wire between the rca's. it is built into it.

Your gonna need to fuse holders dont know if you have one already, one after the battery and one right before the amplifier itself.

Thanks jay-cee

I think I might just go for the Klarity RCAs. They will avoid me having to run an extra cable.

Btw, do those $80 RCAs from their premium series really perform better and give more detail and quality? or are those similar to what we know as rip-off Monster cables?

Honestly I cant speak on those cables but not worth it to me when these $7cables do the job which is pull the signal from the headunit to the amps. Now if they didnt do that then I would have amost $300 worth in rca cables in the car. To me its a personal preference and if you feel those $80 rca cables are better for your appliction or fit your needs then go for it.

I wouldnt go for those $80 cables, I mean, if I had money to throw just like that and wouldnt affect my economic status, then great but I dont think I need those now

How is it possible that the klarity have remote built-in the RCA? Does it work with all amps no matter what brand and model?

I wouldnt go for those $80 cables, I mean, if I had money to throw just like that and wouldnt affect my economic status, then great but I dont think I need those now

How is it possible that the klarity have remote built-in the RCA? Does it work with all amps no matter what brand and model?

It is not really built in at all, it is what seperates the two rca's from each other. Imagine some rca's with a 18awg or whatever size wire it is in between it, you could also remove the wire and it will seperate the rca's from each other so they wont be attached.

Oh ok I see. I thought it was built-in the actual RCA cable lol

Btw, I just bought the IEC AULOC ADJUSTABLE LINE OUTPUT CONVERTER from amazon. Its made by Rockford. Any opinion on it? Or is it like any other RCA adaptor?

Once I get that, I will need to install it, run my RCA cable and finally install my 2000D.

By any chance, do you know of any website that shows how to remove radios? I have no idea where to start on the expedition...

I've always just used a pair of $15 RCAs and have never had any problems.

Oh ok I see. I thought it was built-in the actual RCA cable lol

I've used the Klarity RCA's in multiple installs and i love em'!

Btw, I just bought the IEC AULOC ADJUSTABLE LINE OUTPUT CONVERTER from amazon. Its made by Rockford. Any opinion on it? Or is it like any other RCA adaptor?

You should get a head unit with a dedicated Subwoofer out, I've never been a fan of line out converters.

Once I get that, I will need to install it, run my RCA cable and finally install my 2000D.

By any chance, do you know of any website that shows how to remove radios? I have no idea where to start on the expedition...

Usually if you buy a dash kit it will come with a booklet of instructions on how to remove it. What car do you own?

^^^ read above

Oh ok I see. I thought it was built-in the actual RCA cable lol

I've used the Klarity RCA's in multiple installs and i love em'!

Btw, I just bought the IEC AULOC ADJUSTABLE LINE OUTPUT CONVERTER from amazon. Its made by Rockford. Any opinion on it? Or is it like any other RCA adaptor?

You should get a head unit with a dedicated Subwoofer out, I've never been a fan of line out converters.

Once I get that, I will need to install it, run my RCA cable and finally install my 2000D.

By any chance, do you know of any website that shows how to remove radios? I have no idea where to start on the expedition...

Usually if you buy a dash kit it will come with a booklet of instructions on how to remove it. What car do you own?

^^^ read above

Well cant afford a new HU for now. Im saving for the good Alpine 9667. I dont really want a cheap one, straight to the good one is what Im aiming for. This means no dash kit either.

Ive tried looking at some websites, most websites have explained text, would like to see pictures but newest I found are from regular 2006 models and the dash looks really different. Ive also read in many sites that my factory HU does not have 12v remote lead. Im thinking about my friends friend who installs car audio stuff. At this point, is not that I dont want to learn or give it a try, but I think it would be better if I learn from somebody doing it while I watch so next time I have an idea of where to start and how to proceed with the cables and tools.

Line converter is on the way, as soon as it comes here, I will bring that together with RCA and remote cable to have it installed. Will see if I can buy a multimeter or have one borrowed and have my 2000D bump the streets!

Question

Is the oscilloscope the best tool to set up your gain? or is the DMM?

Is it easier than a DMM?

The O-scope is the best way to set your gain but also the most expensive way to set your gain also, since it cost an arm and a leg more than a DMM.

The O-scope is the best way to set your gain but also the most expensive way to set your gain also, since it cost an arm and a leg more than a DMM.

Whats a good website to buy O-scopes? Whats a good brand?

I've always thought that my ears are a good enough O-scope.

So I just got my IEC LOC

Its heaver and bigger than I expected lol

Anyways, I just noticed something. Locs have Gains too (dammit), one for right and other for left channel. Now, how in the world do you set LOC gains?

How in the world do I know which one cable is the remote turn-on on a factory radio?

Search on the internet for it, look in your manual or go buy the handbook for your car from AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc.