Got about 12-15 feet of 2/0 run from battery to trunk, going to be running DSC1500.1D @ 1 ohm 1500 rms and DSC280 @ 4 ohms 160 rms. What size fuse should I put next to the batt? Was thinking 250 amp, would that do it? Thanks.

If it matters, stock alt 80 amp, Yellow Top 55 ah, Big 3 done in 2 gauge welding cable.

take both amps fuse ratings and add them together then get a single fuse as close as possible to that number.

That's what I figured, but I have heard people say that was wrong cause you are fusing the wire not the amps? If I went that route then it would be 180 for both amps, so a 200 would be good, correct?

That's what I figured, but I have heard people say that was wrong cause you are fusing the wire not the amps? If I went that route then it would be 180 for both amps, so a 200 would be good, correct?

You should be good with a 150, you'll probably never pull 180a anyway. Most people would tell you to get a 200.

Yes, the wire can handle quite a bit more than 200 amps, but with the price of wire vs amps, I'd rather replace a fuse in my wire than risk equipment damage.

This is how you do it for any isntall-

Your inline fuse on the power line is determined by adding all the fuses in your amps together. If this number does not come in that particular fuse size, get the next fuse size DOWN.

So, for instance, you say 180A total, get a 150A. If it were 320A, get a 300A, etc...

Also, it is important to know what your cable is rated at also.

You don't want to try and run 3 amps that have 150A worth of fusing a piece(450A) off of a single cable that may only be rated for 300A and slap a 450A fuse on that wire... That's a no no, hehe.

You add up all the fusing on your amps and use that number as your inline fuse ONLY up to the point of the rated maximum current of the wire. IF you have 450A worth of fusing for amps and it's controlled via 1 cable, inline fuse WILL only be the rated current for that wire which may be 250, 300, 350A etc...

This is to protect the wire from melting. That's more important than protecting the amps in this case.

For such a scenario like that, you would also have battery(ies) in the back and the single cable run from front to back would mostly be used just for the alternator charging current and 95% of alts will not consistently pass current higher than even what a single 1/0 cable can handle(300A rated cable that is). Although i wouldnt recommend just using single 1/0 cable either for that install due to voltage drop if charging current really was that high most of the time.

Well, you should have grasped what i am sayin by now.

This is how you do it for any isntall-

Your inline fuse on the power line is determined by adding all the fuses in your amps together. If this number does not come in that particular fuse size, get the next fuse size DOWN.

So, for instance, you say 180A total, get a 150A. If it were 320A, get a 300A, etc...

Also, it is important to know what your cable is rated at also.

You don't want to try and run 3 amps that have 150A worth of fusing a piece(450A) off of a single cable that may only be rated for 300A and slap a 450A fuse on that wire... That's a no no, hehe.

You add up all the fusing on your amps and use that number as your inline fuse ONLY up to the point of the rated maximum current of the wire. IF you have 450A worth of fusing for amps and it's controlled via 1 cable, inline fuse WILL only be the rated current for that wire which may be 250, 300, 350A etc...

This is to protect the wire from melting. That's more important than protecting the amps in this case.

For such a scenario like that, you would also have battery(ies) in the back and the single cable run from front to back would mostly be used just for the alternator charging current and 95% of alts will not consistently pass current higher than even what a single 1/0 cable can handle(300A rated cable that is). Although i wouldnt recommend just using single 1/0 cable either for that install due to voltage drop if charging current really was that high most of the time.

Well, you should have grasped what i am sayin by now.

Give a man a fish, and he eats for a day. Teach him how to fish, and he will eat for the rest of his life. Thank you for breaking it down.

Have you had a system on that alternator before? It's gonna be stressing.

The only thing an inline fuse is designed to do is keep you car from catching on fire in the event of a short.

It has absolutely nothing to do with amp protection, especially if you are running multiple amps, lol.....

i would use a 200amp fuse

The only thing an inline fuse is designed to do is keep you car from catching on fire in the event of a short.

It has absolutely nothing to do with amp protection, especially if you are running multiple amps, lol.....

....okay

interesting you say that.

current-ly (pun intended) i have 1 run of 1/0 wire with a 250amp fuse in it from front battery to rear batteries, then from rear batteries i have a 200amp fuse going to the amp! so your recommendation is to upgrade my 200amp fuse to a 250~300amp fuse?

Ok, so we got 150, 200, and on another forum 250 , can someone give me a consistent answer, please. Thanks.

Ok, so we got 150, 200, and on another forum 250 , can someone give me a consistent answer, please. Thanks.

Naw whoever told you 250 is . Some go with a little under amps total fuse rating because you more than likely will never pull that many amps. Then you have some that go about 10-15% more than amps fusing, it all boils down to preference. Then you have another batch who fuse to wire's capacity so in all actuality you wont get a constant answer. Your on Team Audioque with these type of questions?

This is how you do it for any isntall-

Your inline fuse on the power line is determined by adding all the fuses in your amps together. If this number does not come in that particular fuse size, get the next fuse size DOWN.

So, for instance, you say 180A total, get a 150A. If it were 320A, get a 300A, etc...

Also, it is important to know what your cable is rated at also.

You don't want to try and run 3 amps that have 150A worth of fusing a piece(450A) off of a single cable that may only be rated for 300A and slap a 450A fuse on that wire... That's a no no, hehe.

You add up all the fusing on your amps and use that number as your inline fuse ONLY up to the point of the rated maximum current of the wire. IF you have 450A worth of fusing for amps and it's controlled via 1 cable, inline fuse WILL only be the rated current for that wire which may be 250, 300, 350A etc...

This is to protect the wire from melting. That's more important than protecting the amps in this case.

For such a scenario like that, you would also have battery(ies) in the back and the single cable run from front to back would mostly be used just for the alternator charging current and 95% of alts will not consistently pass current higher than even what a single 1/0 cable can handle(300A rated cable that is). Although i wouldnt recommend just using single 1/0 cable either for that install due to voltage drop if charging current really was that high most of the time.

Well, you should have grasped what i am sayin by now.

Only for any install when you don't know what you are doing.

The only thing an inline fuse is designed to do is keep you car from catching on fire in the event of a short.

It has absolutely nothing to do with amp protection, especially if you are running multiple amps, lol.....

Did you guys not read this? Fuse the wire. Really it is that simple.

Wire and Fuse Selection:

The following calculator will give basic wire and fuse sizes for the main power wire and for each individual amplifier. Select the class of operation for each amplifier and enter the power output at the right of the amplifier. If you have less that 4 amplifiers, enter zero in the fields that are not needed. Keep in mid that these are just suggestions. If your amplifiers don't have internal or on-board fuses, use the manufacturers suggested fuse in the distribution block. The fuse sizes given are to protect the vehicle from fire not necessarily to protect the amplifier.

200 amp at the batt and 2 100 amps at the distro. Sound good? ///M5?

Ok, so we got 150, 200, and on another forum 250 , can someone give me a consistent answer, please. Thanks.

Naw whoever told you 250 is . Some go with a little under amps total fuse rating because you more than likely will never pull that many amps. Then you have some that go about 10-15% more than amps fusing, it all boils down to preference. Then you have another batch who fuse to wire's capacity so in all actuality you wont get a constant answer. Your on Team Audioque with these type of questions?

No, not on Team Audioque, seen the logo and liked it. For around $5 I can buy one and stick it on my car window, doesn't make me a member of Team AQ. Just a guy with a sticker.

Either 150 or 200 will work fine. Doesn't really matter that much. Once you put it in, there's a 99% chance you will never think about it again. It's not like a gain setting that has to be just right. Just as long as the fuse is at or under the current carrying capacity of the wire, which there are numerous websites that tell you that information.

Either 150 or 200 will work fine. Doesn't really matter that much. Once you put it in, there's a 99% chance you will never think about it again. It's not like a gain setting that has to be just right. Just as long as the fuse is at or under the current carrying capacity of the wire, which there are numerous websites that tell you that information.

Yes

Thanks guys.