the battery buss bar set and the multi insert set , at a standard, If this is considered standard, size........

this should be a packged bundle..... or even add the fused block into the picture as well....

a complete set, from front to back, a beginners dream , all custom, top notch, shipped in one package!

now, with that said, you will have to have a catchy name, we the consumers demand it....

and i personally think that there should be several stewey decals thrown in there as well.

chop

this guy has been given me grief over stewey pics all night about this, lol..

I'm not trying to portray this as a business but just as a capability upon request...

Now, if something later down the road happened and i got hundreds of requests... well that's different.

As of right now, i like to keep it simple and see how testing goes first.

lols

seriously though....

bundle packages...kits, whatever....ftw....

i would be interseted in running a full set from front to back of

shizzzon industries complete eletrical upgrade hardware......

complete with decals!

ok, here is the first of some bars.

these bars are for 2 Deka 9a31s. the batteries are located on each side of the vehicle so no buss bars could be used.

he needed extra connections capable to each battery post, power and ground.

None of these holes are tapped. It's not necessary to tap them but if you need them tapped, i can tap them.

The bottom hole on each bar is for the battery's post terminal. the other 4 holes are for the wire runs.

These bars are rated to accept a continuous load of 700A. That should be enough for about 20,000w worth of amps for daily use on average!(average draw taken assumes 33-50% continuous draw of maximum current rating).

He has less than 4,000w in the vehicle so this is actually way overkill but he does compete.

These particular bars go for $40 per battery shipped (2 flats for power and ground) or $65 for 2 batteries shipped via USPS.

Pricing fluctuates with ampacity requirement and it's gets cheaper the more you need which is always good.

I agree with everyone. I bet the guy that is going to receive those is not going to be too happy about those 35 degree angles there. hehe.

they don't look that bad lol! they have 2 out 4 sides square

lol the other 2 sides are out to lunch! lol!

ok, here is the first of some bars.

these bars are for 2 Deka 9a31s. the batteries are located on each side of the vehicle so no buss bars could be used.

he needed extra connections capable to each battery post, power and ground.

None of these holes are tapped. It's not necessary to tap them but if you need them tapped, i can tap them.

The bottom hole on each bar is for the battery's post terminal. the other 4 holes are for the wire runs.

These bars are rated to accept a continuous load of 700A. That should be enough for about 20,000w worth of amps for daily use on average!(average draw taken assumes 33-50% continuous draw of maximum current rating).

He has less than 4,000w in the vehicle so this is actually way overkill but he does compete.

These particular bars go for $40 per battery shipped (2 flats for power and ground) or $65 for 2 batteries shipped via USPS.

Pricing fluctuates with ampacity requirement and it's gets cheaper the more you need which is always good.

I agree with everyone. I bet the guy that is going to receive those is not going to be too happy about those 35 degree angles there. hehe.

I am interested in the "b" stock pricing shizzzon, just shoot me a pm, lol.

i can hide those well enough,

yea thats def b stock, lol.

u guys are hilarious.

I just ordered the material for the fuse block and stock battery bar... and no, it wont be crooked.

don't forget to chamfer it!! no sharp corners plz lol!!

I am going to see if my co-op will let me use the shop after work hours.

umm i love after hour works lol!! over here in canada we call it Government work! lol!

the corners aren't necessary. the material is uber soft as it is. It seems the softer the material, the more conductive it is, or at least that's how aluminum is. Copper is already a soft material.

the corners aren't necessary. the material is uber soft as it is. It seems the softer the material, the more conductive it is, or at least that's how aluminum is. Copper is already a soft material.

No. It is the ability to give up electrons that makes metal more or less conductive.

Whats up with nothing being at 90* to each other?

Extra edges give extra mad deebeez

these are 99.94% solid copper

Have fun with it when it starts to corrode.

Just like I've seen some "experts" around here who scaped tinned ring terminals because "pure copper is better than tinned".

hey topgun, care to elaborate? all marketed fuse blocks i have are pretty squareand buss bars i've seen are always square.adrian- the user has a solution for preventing itbut the alloy used has excellent prevention of corrosion.they said it would take a few yrs unprotected for it to cause a problem.the alloys i choose all have great preventitive corrosive measures while maintaining high IACS values.some of the stock i ordered earlier is silver plated to maximize the prevention of corrosionn

Not sure what you want me to elaborate on.

ok, why should the corners be rounded? what benefit is there. nobody i know does this nor purchaases them like this

i assume people go with sqaure over round b/c square is easier to make? plus maybe it doesn't make that much of a differences?

but i am interested in the real answer topgun of why round or sqaure?

That isn't what he was responding to lol

That isn't what he was responding to lol

opps.. so i guess I should pose a question then! rounded or sqaure and why?

I was responding to the fact that it looks unprofessional. People tend to look for uniformity and eye appeal in something they are looking at buying. It doesn't matter if an ugly gizmo that does the job admirably, the pretty one that does an ok job will sell better 99% of the time.

Remember this

Pretty sells. Period

Your job as someone who is looking to put a product out for purchase is to provide reason why they should buy it from you. Part of that is to have a professional appearance in your product which involves straight/square/even angles/whatever it is supposed to be.

Now I may see your idea for marketing the product, see your shoddy work that you just posted and think to myself "Hmmm, I have a pile of scrap copper and I can do a hell of a lot nicer job than that for the same money, I can steal all his business." Now what is to stop me from doing that? For me it is the lack of time and I don't have a desire to steal your business or even cater to that crowd.

Here are some hints.

-Invest in a square, either an adjustable hand square or a speed square, doesn't matter which one

-Invest in a hammer and center punch to mark your holes, it will reduce the drill bit walking around on you

-Take time to lay it out and get it right the first time, that extra 5 minutes won't matter when it brings you more customers

-If your going to sell it, make your display pieces nice, and then make jigs to build them better and faster

-If you wouldn't show it off in your own install, don't friggin sell it.

-Put a radius on your corners, makes it look nicer

-Remove all sharp edges, wherever someone can cut their hand, they will

ok i understand that, sorry for havin u type all that.i wasnt particularly looking for pretty even though i get your drift.i didnt really want to advertise especially in a manner of professionalism.its just something to try, test and use if successful.if i get access to more tools, ill change the appearance of the items.right now,im just focused on makin them first rough i guess u should say

Personally I'd spend more time making them pretty even if they were just for me and going into a hidden spot in my car.

while i totally agree... freakin competition rules require them to see everything... if they cant see it.. it's illegal, lol, i'm not joking.

I have a relative that's like you all. "If you gonna do it.. do it right." You all, and him, may motivate me enough to do it right the first time. I just gotta get the extras topgun was talkin about.

Ok, well here is the results so far from the making of the fuse holder-

After using 2 separate bandsaws, a gravity saw and a table type version, the material i'm using just isn't "cutting" it.

Because of this, the capability of using 2 different types of fuses for 1 master block will NOT be made...

The sketchup will change.

There will be 2 versions, a block for ANLs and one for mini-ANLs.

They will be as follows-

1/0-4/0 cable- 6-8 inputs\outputs

4awg cable - 8-10 input\outputs

ANL fusing version- holds up to 6 ANLs

mANL fusing version- holds up to 10mANLs

here is a pic of the spacing lugs with the ANL version-

They will be mounted on either 1\2" thick Fiberglass or 1\2" thick PVC plate with a Fiberglass covering if requested. The fiberglass cover is red and so is the fiberglass base. the PVC sheeting is gray.

All of the bolts are socket caps so you can torq them down pretty good.

All holes are fine threads to assist in torqing.

All bolts and washers come with the fuse holder. I may also be supplying fuses as well in the near future.

I can't show a finished product because the version i made was of the sketchup model and i will not be going that route anymore.

These blocks will, as from the pic, be simple shaped, and effective.

They will be rated for 1200A continuous this time rather than the 1000A previously. this should be enough for approx 30,000w worth of rated amplifiers using dynamic tracks.

I won't have any other pics of the fuse holder until i make some more locally, then i can update the pics of them then.

The stock battery buss flats are made but not finished, i'll probably do them after i get back from SBN.

looks like you need a milling machine/ bridgeport lol!!