I need some info any and all comments are welcome!

here is my setup I will be running:

2-saz2000

2-nsb90's

2-15inch ns

1-h/o alt

and the big 3

system potential 4000-4500rms at 2ohm

potential current 350-400A

now my question is DO I NEED 2 runs of + and - from front to back of my car????

currently I have 1 run of each(+ and -) from front to back of my car but getting another run of each will be nearly impossible! the only way I could do this is to either go under the car (or on top and call it a pin stripe) or I could run it on the driver side but then it will be mixed with my RCA wires.

now my question is should I switch my 1 run of negative(-) to a run of positive(+) and be done with while doubling up the ground wires in the front and rear of the car? Also for grounding I want to ground to my cars frame so it would be a really good ground and I would end up drilling though the cars sheet metal and using grommets and sealant.

this is going to be my first near 5krms setup and i want to make sure I do it right and double check before I do anything stupid!

like I said any and all comments welcome and if you have nothing to say please post in the topic poll!

thanks for your time and aid

Kenneth

If your alternator puts out more current than one run of 1/0 can handle you will need multiple runs. As for the ground, it's not needed at all. Just ground to the frame.

umm i c! good point my h/o alt is a 200amp alt!

and since my wire cna support 300~ amps i should be good!! ty!

problem solved that was fast!!

Look at a wire rating chart, Determine how long each run is, determine how many amps you are trying to move. Very simple math. I would only worry about doubling up the + wire and Just ground the rear battery.

If you want to see some wire's ran under the car take a look at my build log.

The longer the + wire the less amps it can carry, SO check a wire chart. Don't forget to do the BIG3.

j-roadtatts

i checked out your build iwth the wire under the car! looks very clean i like it!!

also i found this site with a cool calc on it but i am not 100% sure on how to use it. the calc is on the bottom can you or someone shed some light?

American Wire Gauge table and AWG Electrical Current Load Limits with skin depth frequencies

my wire is 1/0 (woudl it matter that i have 1 run of + and - )

run is 13ft

12vdc

now the load... 200amps (the alt can output) or does it mean the load as in the amp if so my saz2000-s cna pull nearly 400amps,,,

http://www.knukonceptz.com/assets/pdf/PowerWireSpec.pdf Use this chart. NOT ALL 1/0 WIRE IS EQUAL. The KOL wire refered to in this chart is closer to 2/0 by strand count and can carry up to 300 amps.

Now with all that being said, I would just use the 2 runs you have now for + wire and just ground the - wire to the car, with a bolt, through the floor w/lock nut. If you don't have voltage drop from the front batt to the back batt you don't need a - wire run.

What brand of 1/0 do you have now?

Your suggestion on going on top of the car was a joke, right? I'm sorry if I missed the sarcasm.

I'm not following..

..lost..

I'm not following..

..lost..

You better just stand back and watch then, you might learn something.

I would buy welding cable from www.weldingsupply.com

^ that

Welding wire may be cheap but, will corode sooner and can be stiff to work with. I recommend Knu Konceptz or Stinger, each of these companys makes several different style's of 1/0. Look them up and you will learn ALOT about wire. and remember YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.

Welding wire may be cheap but, will corode sooner and can be stiff to work with. I recommend Knu Konceptz or Stinger, each of these companys makes several different style's of 1/0. Look them up and you will learn ALOT about wire. and remember YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.

Thats not really true. The welding wire from welding supply is very flexible and has a high thread count. It's good stuff, all copper. If it wasnt I would not have used it. Copper is copper why pay more?

I am not saying welding wire won't work, It will just corode quicker and isn't always cheaper. WHY PAY MORE? Because you can get 1/0 ga. wire that is closer to 2/0 ga. in strand count, this is why you get what you pay for.

Why do people trip over dollar's to pick up dime's? If ALL that is important is money, way even ask, just do what's cheapest. Different folk's, different stroke's I guess?

Knu is inferior to welding cable, especially thier aluminum crap. People like it because it looks good.

Welding cable is the best quality wire per $.

Knu is inferior to welding cable, especially thier aluminum crap. People like it because it looks good.

Welding cable is the best quality wire per $.

Does this "welding wire" have a brand name or is it just whatever you can find? How can you compare? I can buy some REALLY CHEAP 1/0 on Ebay, but if it take's 2 run's to equal 1 of alittle bit more expensive wire, HOW DID YOU SAVE ANYTHING?

To the OP, if the wire you have now can handle 200 amps ea. and you don't need a ground wire, then use them both for + wire and this is the cheapest. If you want to add another + wire just make sure they two wires combined can carry your amp load demand. The choose of where you get the wire is your's and as you can see could be different for several different reason's.

Anybody else have a comparision picture?

the Knukonceptz CCA is very stiff it's a little cold out not very flexible but works well either way

@ j-roadtatts

I can only give my opinion about the wire from weldingsupply.com. That is what I use and it's good stuff. I would not trust much of anything on ebay.

@ j-roadtatts

Maybe this threads can change your mind.

Welding cable - SSA Car Audio Forum

welding wire? - SSA Car Audio Forum

Believe me guys I am not trying to argue that any wire is better, as I haven't tryed very many. But I making sure that the OP understands amp load's SO help me out.

YES I AM A MAST-DA-BATER.lol.

Edited March 5, 201015 yr by j-roadtatts

Hey guys the wiring i am using is the KNU Kolossus stuff

Knukonceptz product detail for KOLOSSUS FLEKS KABLE 1/0 BLACK POWER/GROUND WIRE 50FT

and yes running it ON TOP of the car was a pure joke! lol (hench it was in brackets lol)

thanks for the knu site it helped me to understand that i 1 run is okay but 2 runs would be ideal! with that being siad i will switch my negitive run into a positive run and if i get an issue i will just run 2 sets of ground wires though the other side of the car (rca side) but i will not know anything till nicer weather comes around and i get some free time!!

and sorry for the late reply i was in school till now!! lol!

again thankyou to everyone who has helped me out in my decision esspecially j-roadtatts Duran and sir lancelot!!

p/s nice tat j-roadtatts!

and also when the nicer weather comes along i will start my build and a nice big build log and go from there! i will also make mension of what i did in my build log regarding the wiring situation!

Welding wire may be cheap but, will corode sooner and can be stiff to work with. I recommend Knu Konceptz or Stinger, each of these companys makes several different style's of 1/0. Look them up and you will learn ALOT about wire. and remember YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR.

Any copper wire, if it's not tinned or soldered to a ring terminal will corrode. So it's not just a welding wire problem.

I'll have to check how my wire ends look 2 years after they were installed.

imho, welding wire is used in much more unforgiving conditions than a car and holds up to the task.