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Featured Replies

Posted

This is in my cousins '96 Buick Regal.

Thanks to Vertex Audio for the equipment

2 15" IA LI (should arrive any day now)

1 run Shok industries 1/0

1 American Pro VS-1598

Here are some more pics and specs on the amp since it's not a popular amp/brand

box21.jpg

VS-1598

500rms x 2 @ 2ohms

The box is 7ft net tuned to 36hz with 96sq of port.

First cut, 1 side of the port

box1.jpg

Since my table saw was stolen we were using this one- damn it's so nice to use

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Marking the port

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3/4 round over on the port. Trying out the new "jawhorse" thing. It works pretty nice!

box11.jpg

Also with the small router- really good for laminate and easier to control with my home made base than the large router :)

box11_2.jpg

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More of the box together

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And the port is on

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Using woodfiller on some nail holes, the box just uses finish nails & glue so it's really quick.

box17.jpg

And a light sanding after drying

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Depending on how things go we'll get the baffle done in the next day or so, then we need to chop the trunk some, cut 45s and resin things.

  • Author

box1-1.jpg

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The 45s are cut and put in, now we just have to cut and install the baffle in the morning, then get it painted and let it dry for install!

Hopefully this will be up and playing in a few days.

Do you usually go with screws when you install enclosures or do you usually use nails and why? Which do you prefer and why? Thanks.

Damn saw thieves :(

The enclosure looks great though!

  • Author

Thanks!

It really depends on the quality of the cuts/wood. I prefer glue/finish nails for several reasons:

  • Cosmetics
  • Speed of assembly
  • Cost of screws

To put finish nails every 6 inches costs a lot less than screws, while also allowing me to skip the pre-drilling, drilling, countersinking process for each screw. I can pop a few nails in a panel in seconds which also speeds things up. Then if you're painting the box the finish nails need less wood-filler to be smooth and paintable.

If I'm building a box that will have thousands of watts and tons of subs, or the cuts aren't that great I'll use a few screws if fiberglass isn't in the budget. Screws wont work out like nails may, and they will clamp the joint a bit better till the glue dries.

If you spend the time to make near perfect cuts and use plenty of glue you wont need screws for most boxes though imo.

Thanks and really do appreciate your insight on the topic, may start using nails since in the future. I noticed the time difference when making my last box with screws and one two years ago with nails.

  • Author

Pics:

Started on the baffle

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Countersunk about 1/2 inch

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Glued and nailed the baffle in place. Double baffle.

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Wood filler in the holes

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Test fitting

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round over on the whole box

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4 cans of black primer and 2 of valspar stone applied

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  • Author

Thanks a lot. It has enough effort in it lol. I have some all thread that was going to go in but honestly there's next to no flex so I wont go through the effort till he gets the budget for resin. This box is ready to go in though, at least as soon as I clean it out again and drill a hole for the sub wires.

Great looking enclosure, keep up the good work.

I like the painted finish. Turned out really nice.

:drink40:

:werd_msword: texture looks great. wont the sub seal be off, with the texture where the screws are put in? wont be a smooth surface for continuous contact?

I like the painted finish. Turned out really nice.

:drink40:

:werd_msword: texture looks great. wont the sub seal be off, with the texture where the screws are put in? wont be a smooth surface for continuous contact?

The woofer gasket will compress and seal it up.

Very nice. I really like the "stone" look. Kind of what I'm wanting to do for my next box.

  • Author

No the gasket will seal tight- I've already sanded off the small amount of overspray, so it's back to smooth primer.

Thanks guys.

  • Author

I only got a few pics with as much work as we were doing, but that was such a tight fit lol.

box27.jpg

Cut part of the trunk release spring/bar thing.

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And the corner bracing for the rear seat

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A few more side pics of the subs

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Incriminator Audio: no chrome, no carbon fiber, no BS. That shiny 'black nickel finish' sure looks pretty though :)

box30.jpg

Another can of that paint and 10 minutes and we'll have those scratches looking nice again. The tension of that spring must be ridiculous.

  • Admin

Looks great.

Great job on the box! Very clean! I went to a finish nailer as well on my enclosures. Just speeds up the process.

box34.jpg

[

I spy an Audiopipe box there. Is this what you are powering the subs with, AP15001D maybe? If so, please let us know how they sound. I will be dropping my 2 brand new IA Leathal Injection 12s in next week and will be running them off my AP15001D. Box will be around 3.6^3 tuned around 30-32 Hz. These subs are BEASTS! They look more like 1500 watt rms subs rather than 600 watt rms, imo. Can't wait for my box to be done. Beautiful craftmanship on that box and nice job squeezing it in there. Looked like a tight fit. Can't wait to see some vids of this thing in action. Thanks.

really diggin' the port... videos???

  • Author

Yes sir I really love using the finish nailer, especially if you're working alone. Thanks a lot, I think the effort that went into this will pay off.

I made the box height and width the largest possible- knowing we were going to cut some metal. We were able to get it in with less cutting than I anticipated after a bit of bending (that can be undone :) ) Depth wise he can still fit groceries behind the box, and have his kid in the back seat.

My cousin bought an Audiopipe 1500. He was going to use my amp but I think it needs some work since it didn't power up successfully. I'm not very familiar with the amp, I was hoping for at least the 1200 rms his subs need, but I can clamp it down the road.

We were going to run the power today but it didn't work out- hopefully we'll get it done tomorrow- I know he's pretty anxious, and I want to see how it sounds. I anticipate trunk rattling so bad he'll start saving for sound deadener before upgrading anything else.

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