September 6, 201015 yr Awesome job.How complete is the CCF coverage under the MLV in the hatch area?Going from Don's previous post, is the ideal situation for a door Inner Door Skin / CCF / MLV / CCF / Door Panel? And is the CCF only used in "problematic" areas? (i.e: where the panel touches the inner door skin.Is any CCF/MLV needed on the outer door skin?-Kader
September 6, 201015 yr Awesome job.How complete is the CCF coverage under the MLV in the hatch area?Going from Don's previous post, is the ideal situation for a door Inner Door Skin / CCF / MLV / CCF / Door Panel? And is the CCF only used in "problematic" areas? (i.e: where the panel touches the inner door skin.Is any CCF/MLV needed on the outer door skin?-KaderThere is a complete layer of 1/8" CCF under the MLV in the hatch area. CCF /MLV /CCF is ideal, but unless there is a lot of space in the trim panels - true for many trucks, moving the MLV even 1/8" out from the inner skin will make the difference between getting the trim panel back on and not. I shoot for adding CCF where it will fit and be compressed slightly when the trim panel is reinstalled. That holds everything tightly in place and avoids the possibility of MLV rattling against the sheet metal.In most cases, a barrier layer on the inner skin will do the job. This is especially true if there are speakers mounted in the doors since the barrier layer acoustically reinforces the baffle. Sometimes this position isn't possible because of the way the inner skin and trim panels fit together. Mini's, newer Mazdas and a few others have large plastic inserts in the center of the inner skin that aren't flat enough for this technique to work. Outer skin placement is a good choice if the inner skin won't work, and the access holes are large enough to get to the outer skin. The advantage of outer skin placement is that it blocks sound from door mounted speakers from leaving the vehicle - good if you don't want to be heard.
September 8, 201015 yr Very informative post! I think I know what to do now and not follow the old saying "More is bertter" route.Thank You Aaron and Don!
September 14, 201015 yr Author Admin Visiting from evolutiom.net! Very nice thread and write-up!Welcome, and invite some friends over too.
September 15, 201015 yr Before and after in-car videos would have been icing on the cake! I, myself, am currently underway with a similar project. Don was gracious enough to spend time and answer any questions I had with my project. The evolution can be a very noisy car that can get very taxing on long drives. I really hope this rejuvenates my love for the car!
September 15, 201015 yr We would have liked to remove the factory deadener on the floor. It's a very thick layer of asphalt. You could do a long term test on the adhesive and mount on the pan underneath the car Clean work on the MLV
September 15, 201015 yr Author Admin We would have liked to remove the factory deadener on the floor. It's a very thick layer of asphalt. You could do a long term test on the adhesive and mount on the pan underneath the car Clean work on the MLV I am heading back over there Saturday. Was thinking about taking out the inner fender plastic to put a CLD tile on the front quarter panel and maybe the back side of the shock towers. Could help even more with road noise.
December 15, 201014 yr How much was spend for SDS products for the whole car?In dollars or levs? So what is the total cost of this project using these products?
December 16, 201014 yr Did you ever get around to treating the front wheel well, quarter, and shock tower as you said you might?
December 16, 201014 yr Author Admin Did you ever get around to treating the front wheel well, quarter, and shock tower as you said you might? No, have not been able to get back to this. Life slammed me pretty hard, so my audio is on hold.
January 24, 201114 yr Did you ever get around to treating the front wheel well, quarter, and shock tower as you said you might? No, have not been able to get back to this. Life slammed me pretty hard, so my audio is on hold.Any updates?
January 24, 201114 yr Author Admin Did you ever get around to treating the front wheel well, quarter, and shock tower as you said you might? No, have not been able to get back to this. Life slammed me pretty hard, so my audio is on hold.Any updates? Nope, the Mazda is now a full time moving vehicle for me, plus it is brutal cold outside.
February 14, 201114 yr How much was spend for SDS products for the whole car?In dollars or levs? So what is the total cost of this project using these products?^^
February 14, 201114 yr How much was spend for SDS products for the whole car?In dollars or levs? So what is the total cost of this project using these products?^^That question has been asked numerous times and has been avoided. I am guessing around $1000 considering my trunk alone was over $250.
February 14, 201114 yr That question has been asked numerous times and has been avoided. I am guessing around $1000 considering my trunk alone was over $250.The question hasn't been avoided - I just don't know. We did it over several days and I didn't keep exact track of the materials. We also left the stock asphalt on the floor and under the back seat for now and haven't gotten to the roof yet. I'd guess $500 before shipping. Probably $600-$650 if/when we go all out, all stock materials removed, etc. That's all before shipping. The next time were working on the car I'll take measurements and calculate the exact cost. Trunks often represent more than a third of a vehicle's total area. There are also some economies of scale that come into play when you treat an entire vehicle.
February 19, 201114 yr Hi Don, quick question: What's the purpose for the stopwatch?The HH-66 has to dry for 3 minutes or so before you can bond the pieces. I run the stopwatch next to the piece so I an do other things but still keep track of its progress. You can tell by looking if when it's ready to go, but this is easier for me. I've found I can't track time intervals in my head - what I think is 3 minutes can be anything from 30 seconds to 10 minutes
February 19, 201114 yr Hi Don, quick question: What's the purpose for the stopwatch?The HH-66 has to dry for 3 minutes or so before you can bond the pieces. I run the stopwatch next to the piece so I an do other things but still keep track of its progress. You can tell by looking if when it's ready to go, but this is easier for me. I've found I can't track time intervals in my head - what I think is 3 minutes can be anything from 30 seconds to 10 minutes Nice time management tip. I would've never thought of this. Thanks for the quick reply!
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