i have a jvc kwnx700, a TEAC 200 watt two channel, and a set of phoenix gold components. Recently, I bought a Fi Bl 12" , a sundown Saz-1500d, and an optima yellow top for the trunk. I wired up the batt with 1/0 welding cable and tested my high amp. it worked great. I hooked up the sub amp with 1/0 and using the old remote turn on from my previous sub set up. It didn't kick on. I then tried my remote turn on that i used on my highs. it still didn't power up. i then went back up front and found my radio off. that remote wire was spliced into the power for my HU. Could I have caused a short by yanking on it? Why wouldn't the sub amp kick on? any help would be greatly appreciated.

Sounds like you may have blown a fuse, check them. The sub amp won't come on if there's no power on the remote wire and it sounds like nothing has power, and since you are using the ACC wire for the HU to remote the amps it just about HAS to be a blown fuse.

Sounds like you may have blown a fuse, check them. The sub amp won't come on if there's no power on the remote wire and it sounds like nothing has power, and since you are using the ACC wire for the HU to remote the amps it just about HAS to be a blown fuse.

it was a blown fuse. I now have a radio and highs. the new issue at hand is the sub amp turned on, but no sound out of sub. checked and rechecked the connection, then it goes into protect. pulled the sub out of the box checked the wires on that end and reconnected them. still in protection mode. I am 80% certain i have a good ground because the second batt is grounded at the same spot.

Unwire the subs from the amp and turn it on, amp may be the problem? Do you have another amp to use to test on the subs and same exact wire?

unwired the sub. amp powers up, but the blue light stays on when the key is out. it eventually turns off. the lights on it flicker when i unlock my doors remotely. the battery is run positive to front positive and negative to a solid ground in the trunk. we tried a couple different ways wiring the sub and everytime i would start the car it would go into protect. checked power at the amp with the car on. it was at 12.64 volts constant. is that good or bad? i have not done the big 3 yet.

Edited September 29, 201014 yr by Chainsaw

How much voltage is on the remote wire with the head unit on?

How much voltage is on the remote wire with the head unit on?

12.46, but its not coming from the HU. that remote wire is hooked up to some random accessory. I took my car to a shop and had them hook up my subs to my factory radio, 5 years ago when I bought the car. Since the factory radio had no remote wire, they ran it somewhere else. I don't really no where. could it be part of the problem? I stated earlier that the amp comes on when i unlock my doors with my keyless entry. and even stays on sometimes. When I go up front and start the car, it goes into protect. Its random though, sometimes i turn the car off and check the trunk to find the pwer light on normal, sometimes its in protect. but its always still on for a few minutes after the car is off.

Should I rerun a remote wire? that way I know where its getting power from? Could that possibly fix the problem?

Also, how do i use a DMM to check the ohm load for my sub?

Again, thanks for helping m trouble shoot my set up

bump

I would definitely track down a new remote wire lol.

Run a new remote wire off of your new head unit. If you can't, then run a line from the (+) side of the battery to a switch, then to the amp so you can turn the amp on and off when you're not using it.

so I've got one part figured out. Jacob (from Sundown) suggested I try hooking the remote wire directly to the battery. it kicked on. When I turned the car on it went into protect. i tried it with the subs hooked up and unhooked. Then I tried it with the car already on and then connecting the wire to the battery. It came on fine. I think it is getting a voltage drop when I start the car, because it comes on fine when the car is already on and I reconnect the wire. I tried reconnecting the sub with the amp already on; didn't go into protect, but still no sound out of the sub. Although, now thinking about it, I didn't turn up the gain or anything, so maybe it was on and I just wasn't hearing it.

update: took the car to my local car audio shop (MST in Prairieville), payed $45 for a troubleshoot. They said something was bad between either the input or the output and that the amp was still staying on when the car was off, even when ran off the same remote as my front stage amp. I ended up sending the amp to Sundown and Jacob says its working fine and has tested it with music. I'm so confused here. I guess when it comes in, its back to the drawing board. any new ideas?

I'd run a new remote wire and check for voltage on your RCA cables. Also check your HU for any options that could disable the RCA output. Sounds like that audio shop didn't troubleshoot crap but just took a guess. Also throw a DMM on the rear battery and have your friend turn the car on and see what the voltage is. It wouldn't hurt to make sure the battery cables are nice and tight on both front and rear battery.

Just a wild theory. Let's say your front battery connections are corroded or maybe you have a bad ground. When you start the engine the power comes from the rear battery along that 1/0 welding cable you ran since the front battery is essentially dosconnected, causing a voltage drop to make the amp go into protect. But I doubt it. Just throwing the idea out there.

Edited November 19, 201014 yr by beandip

update: took the car to my local car audio shop (MST in Prairieville), payed $45 for a troubleshoot. They said something was bad between either the input or the output and that the amp was still staying on when the car was off, even when ran off the same remote as my front stage amp. I ended up sending the amp to Sundown and Jacob says its working fine and has tested it with music. I'm so confused here. I guess when it comes in, its back to the drawing board. any new ideas?

Yeah, bring it to me.

I won't charge you, and more then likely can fix it or at least find the problem.

update: took the car to my local car audio shop (MST in Prairieville), payed $45 for a troubleshoot. They said something was bad between either the input or the output and that the amp was still staying on when the car was off, even when ran off the same remote as my front stage amp. I ended up sending the amp to Sundown and Jacob says its working fine and has tested it with music. I'm so confused here. I guess when it comes in, its back to the drawing board. any new ideas?

Yeah, bring it to me.

I won't charge you, and more then likely can fix it or at least find the problem.

done

Done?

update: took the car to my local car audio shop (MST in Prairieville), payed $45 for a troubleshoot. They said something was bad between either the input or the output and that the amp was still staying on when the car was off, even when ran off the same remote as my front stage amp. I ended up sending the amp to Sundown and Jacob says its working fine and has tested it with music. I'm so confused here. I guess when it comes in, its back to the drawing board. any new ideas?

Yeah, bring it to me.

I won't charge you, and more then likely can fix it or at least find the problem.

done

Just text me when you want to come over.

Done?

I'm gonna bring it to drew(bassahaulic). He is on Team Sundown, knows his shit and lives locally

Done?

I'm gonna bring it to drew(bassahaulic). He is on Team Sundown, knows his shit and lives locally

Oh for a second I thought you found the problem.

Done?

I'm gonna bring it to drew(bassahaulic). He is on Team Sundown, knows his shit and lives locally

Oh for a second I thought you found the problem.

no such luck. The amp is still with Jacob