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Posted

As you know I recently got my Q and started fabricating a box.

So far the top and bottom baffles are somewhat finished, lol

I need a new sander.. :suicide-santa:

Pictures of work will be up later

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  • manrossdamn
    manrossdamn

    Not caulked and sealed yet.. Could've been better, but my friend didn't want to bring his table saw..

  • You need a catalyzed paint, or an epoxy, or wrap it with something. A commercial spray-on bedliner will work as well, but it is catalyzed and rather thick. Normal paint will not stand up to much abu

:popcorn:
  • Author

going to home-depot afterschool to buy another 48x97 sheet of mdf

and then more cuts!

and to get nails and glue I believe..

what type of glue do you recommend Jay?

Titebond wood glue works well

:werd_msword: thats what I use as well

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  • Author

Noble, lol :D

I wish

I'm a big noob

And I'll look at some titebond!

  • Author

Well got some cuts done!

Didn't record myself cutting it, I'm to shy..

I need a table saw :(

Damn circular saw always gives me a slight wobbly edge.

Any help with that guys? :)

Anyways, on with the pics!

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  • Author

I jig-sawed the hole..

My teach didn't give me a circle jig and a router to use yet

Top baffle, bottom, sides, back and front, port not finished

and need to buy one more sheet of MDF for the double baffle top!

Good choice of sub! I have one too seald up in a 7.5 cube box. Only powered off 250 watts right now, but I am saving for a aq1200d. Good luck with your build

  • Author

Thanks man!

Good luck on getting your amp :D

I want one also, can't wait..

This is going to be a huge ported box I tell you..

Looks masive man . What will it be tuned to?

  • Author

It's going to be tuned to a nasty 27hz :)

Well got some cuts done!

Didn't record myself cutting it, I'm to shy..

I need a table saw :(

Damn circular saw always gives me a slight wobbly edge.

Any help with that guys? :)

The best way to keep the saw from meandering across the board is to either buy or build a guide for the saw. Lowes has some nice aluminum ones that come with the C clamps, or you can make your own and buy the clamps you need to hold it steady. I would suggest making one for the simple fact that when you use the aluminum one's you have to add the distance from the edge of the saw to the blade to the cut measurement. Whereas with the one's you make all you have to do is line it up with the line to cut from all the different plans I've seen for them on the net. Plus they're really quite simple to build.

Cut the end of a piece of MDF or another board of some type, the whole 48" and the long length as well. An inch or two wide is all you need. Then glue and screw (or nail) back on the board with the factory cut side facing in. You'll have to do one at a time on this step as well. Then take your circular saw, set it up against the rail you just screwed (or nailed) and make another cut. The piece that comes off will be the perfect width for your saw and when clamped down on your cut lines will give you a perfectly straight cut every time. Just remember to adjust the new fence for blade width (usually 1/8") for inside cuts.

Here's some links to free plans and instructions.

number 1

number 2

number 3

  • Author

haha thanks man!

I will try it out soon :)

It's going to be tuned to a nasty 27hz :)

why so low?

  • Author

I like low notes instead of mid 30's

  • Author

Every edge is straighted then they were on the previous boxes

that's why they made sand paper lol

it's either 27 or 28hz guys

any help?

Every edge is straighted then they were on the previous boxes

that's why they made sand paper lol

it's either 27 or 28hz guys

any help?

you aren't going to notice any difference between 27 and 28... Pick one, the end. :peepwall:

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