So, last Saturday me and my dad got to work on my Cavalier. And it's time for me to give back to the community some.

And away we go! :slayer:

First part Big 3!

2004 Silver Chevrolet Cavalier^

Engine bay with battery and intake/filter removed^

Battery/filter bay.^

Crappy wiring which I hope to make really nice by mounting amps to back of rear seat.^

Head-amp removed as per last album's releasing of magic smoke. You can find that here.^

Current amp rack. Crappy job really needs some tlc.^

Current amp rack from behind. Crappy job really needs some tlc.^

Wiring from cab to computer/engine bay + 1/0 awg for amplifiers in trunk.^

If you can tell that's the alternator where I need to run 1/0 awg from to the battery for better power flow.

Engine mount which I will be changing when I can.

Engine mount which I did change much nicer than the crappy gm thing.

250A ANL style fuse block. Mounted to air intake filter assembly.

Grounding point for engine ground. Runs to chassis ground. and from there to bat negative (-).

Chassis ground. Runs to bat negative (-).

Negative grounding block. Original wiring left in place just added 1/0 everywhere.

Wiring done. So perty! =D

Wiring done. So perty! =D Random shots of it being nice and all.

1/0 awg runs into cabin and goes into 2/0 (or something like that, no idea why, ordered it and it said 4awg. As long as it's bigger who cares?)

Engine bay put back together.

Bought 2 12" DCON's Dual 4ohm so those are on the way. Already have Polk momo 6x9's in the rear (love 'em, hard custom install though). Crappy pioneer 4x6's in the front (only thing that fits). I do plan on replacing these when I learn enough about molding and such. Today me and my dad will be working on the amp rack behind the rear seats. And Yesterday I started work on the sub enclosure. So hopefully I'll get some more pics up tonight. Took me awhile to get this whole image-shack thing working To all the Cavvy lovers out there this is for you guys.

Looks nice Doo!

Looking forward to the day I can help my children with some car projects.

Dads FTW! lol

Have fun with your build.

Why no fuse on charging wire to battery?

Have fun with your build.

Why no fuse on charging wire to battery?

As long as you do it right then there is no need for one really, the fuse just protects the wire in case of a fire or if you get an accident and the wire gets damaged causing all kinds of problems. Its a safety precaution some take, while others dont but not needed.

Have fun with your build.

Why no fuse on charging wire to battery?

As long as you do it right then there is no need for one really, the fuse just protects the wire in case of a fire or if you get an accident and the wire gets damaged causing all kinds of problems. Its a safety precaution some take, while others dont but not needed.

In this instance the fuse protects the BATTERY which is mandatory. Some say seatbelts are not necessary as well........

If it was mandatory like you stated then everyone would be doing and not missing out on it, the fuse protects the wire which in turn is protection for the equipment hooked up to that wire in case of some mishap. Sorry for getting your build off topic OP.

Haha, no problem (it's still technically on build in my opinion, now if we start talking about your poodle and why your grandma hates loud cars, thats' off topic. ). I didn't fuse it because i've read that if you fuse it and the fuse blows the alternator will charge like there's no tomorrow because of no load detected. It will then catch on fire and systematically destroy everything under the hood, well maybe not that last part. But that is the reason why I decided not to fuse the link. The original run isn't fused so there's really no difference other than the ability to weld for longer.

Oh! And I almost forgot sefugi has been a tremendousness help, and I would like to thank him personally for everything he has helped with and for the great build logs which I'm going to use ideas from.

If it was mandatory like you stated then everyone would be doing and not missing out on it, the fuse protects the wire which in turn is protection for the equipment hooked up to that wire in case of some mishap. Sorry for getting your build off topic OP.

Some people believe everything they read and see on the internet.

Haha, no problem (it's still technically on build in my opinion, now if we start talking about your poodle and why your grandma hates loud cars, thats' off topic. ). I didn't fuse it because i've read that if you fuse it and the fuse blows the alternator will charge like there's no tomorrow because of no load detected. It will then catch on fire and systematically destroy everything under the hood, well maybe not that last part. But that is the reason why I decided not to fuse the link. The original run isn't fused so there's really no difference other than the ability to weld for longer.

Oh! And I almost forgot sefugi has been a tremendousness help, and I would like to thank him personally for everything he has helped with and for the great build logs which I'm going to use ideas from.

Alternator failure can not be directly caused by a blown fuse. If anything it protects it. If you overload your alternstor and/or charge wire this may cause a fire or alternator failure. Worse case scenario you blow a fuse and drain your battery (an onboard volt meter would indicate a blown fuse due to reduced voltage giving you notification to prevent battery drainage). That is easily fixable. Vehicle fire and battery explosions can be fatal.

Don't believe me, research it yourself. There are too many "false truths" on internet forums. Please educate yourself from numerous reputable sources!

I'd like to think I am slightly read-up on everything there is sound wise. I have literally done hundreds if not thousands of hours of research over the years trying to get a grasp on everything there is to know about sound lights robots and the like (about me page). I really see no need to fuse the link as the original wire isn't fused for the reason I stated earlier. Nontheless I've done it this way and I like it. Plenty of others have and it works. If y'all have anything to add to the actual build log and such i'd appreciate it othewise this issue is mute. Thanks! Not trying to be mean just want a semi clean build log

Let me first say: "Kudos to your Dad for lending a hand and helping out with your build!!!!!" Nice to have a Dad that is interested in what his son is into. So for your Dad!!!

for the "shout out", I always enjoy helping a fellow car audio junkie get his fix!!

About the charge line fuse, I feel the use of a fuse on the charge circuit while always helps with the safety factor is not manditory. I have used a fuse on some, but not on all. I feel it is up to the installer and his thoughts. Your deciding not to use is based on your install design.

The install so far is lookin good...If you continue to use the patience and care that you have used so far you will complete a very nice build.

Waiting to see more!!!

I told my dad, he said, "thanks" (or something along those lines).

Now for the update.

Drawing for amp rack that's going on the rear seats. I feel this is a smart area to put the amps any ideas as to why not i'm open to. Though I have already commenced building...

Rear tie-bar. Very nice for taking corners fast

While back I got Polk 6x9 momo's cheap 40bux for 2. (great deal), but they don't fit so I jerry-rigged it to the best of my ability. I think it went well.

Left to do:

Finish amp rack.

Finish sub box.

Run front ch wires.

Run rear ch wires.

Wire amps up.

Do signal/phase testing.

Set xovers.

Make more money to buy dampening...

Set-up Christmas lights

Yeah, lots to do.

Nice progress! Excellent work on the enclosure!!

looking good

Nice progress! Excellent work on the enclosure!!

Thank you. Came out better than I had even hoped. I am very happy. Very much as a consequence of my friend's grandpa having a table saw. It's funny we have everything but a table saw and welder. Sadly it got too cold to glue anything, so I have to wait until later today.

I got the amp rack done. And the whole family is pitching in! My mom painted. It looks pretty. I'm amazed this is going as well as it is, being my first build and all.

Sorry for the crappy pics. Best camera I have is my Droid...

Seems your moving right along.... for Mom!!

Ready for an update?

After a good Thanksgiving. My speakers are in!

SSA 12" DCON's (2)

Image Dynamic OEM V1 Midbass

Image Dynamic CX54 components.

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I plan on actually installing everything sometime after the 12th as my last final is on the 14th.

Until then lots and lots of research on installing components, fiberglassing, sound deadening, the works!

Awesome looking hardware, should really be a nice sounding setup once you get everything installed!!! Will be looking forward to how you install your front stage!!

Awesome looking hardware, should really be a nice sounding setup once you get everything installed!!! Will be looking forward to how you install your front stage!!

Hahaha, me too!

I keep going through ideas, mounting positions, crossover points, etc. in my head wondering what's best. I think what i'll do to calm my spirits and hopefully finish strong in school will be to take pictures and ask the community instead of constantly running ideas through my head when i should be listening to how taking the integral of sinx is going to help me later in life.

Some straightforwardness in the front stage will be mid-bass in doors (sealed of course), midrange in kicks/pods, and tweets on A-pillars or I spotted a very nice spot for them and between the dash, A-pillar, and door that may service my hearing much better than if it was on the A-pillars. The A-pillars seem too close at least the left one to my head to put tweets on the pillars. I'll take pics and ask sooner or later (hopefully sooner).

Awesome looking hardware, should really be a nice sounding setup once you get everything installed!!! Will be looking forward to how you install your front stage!!

Hahaha, me too!

I keep going through ideas, mounting positions, crossover points, etc. in my head wondering what's best. I think what i'll do to calm my spirits and hopefully finish strong in school will be to take pictures and ask the community instead of constantly running ideas through my head when i should be listening to how taking the integral of sinx is going to help me later in life.

Some straightforwardness in the front stage will be mid-bass in doors (sealed of course), midrange in kicks/pods, and tweets on A-pillars or I spotted a very nice spot for them and between the dash, A-pillar, and door that may service my hearing much better than if it was on the A-pillars. The A-pillars seem too close at least the left one to my head to put tweets on the pillars. I'll take pics and ask sooner or later (hopefully sooner).

A common suggestion I have seen on the forum is to use some double sided tape and try the tweeters in some different positions to get an idea were they will give you the sound you are looking for. Just a thought if you havn't run across this yet. You can do the same with the midranges in the kicks with some preforated metal straps that can be bent and angled for the direction that suits your ears. Good Luck!!

Actually, Richard, (sq_mgb), who I bought my speakers from, talked to me at length about speaker placement and using the methods you suggested actually adding a couple more. Very nice guy, I plan on calling him and talking to you once I get rolling on this build. For now Finals...

Good luck with finals and I would be glad to speak with you about locations and how to find the best one for your vehicle. As has been suggested, double side tape on the back of the tweeter mount and LOTS of extra wire to move them around will help you determine where to locate them. Plus, since those tweeters have a swivel mount, you can fine tune them once you decide on a good spot. Just be sure to unscrew the flange a little to loosen it up so it moves easier, then when you get it set, tighten it back up.

I was going to call you today to make sure they arrived since I hadn't heard from you, but from the looks of things they made it just fine. I'm just glad they are going to a good home. This is a good guy here fellas, and I look forward to watching this build come along.

Now go ace those finals and get back to work on the car! We want more pics!!!

comin along nicely man......how do u like those polk 6x9's? did they come with the crossovers? i traded 3 rusted junk dayton rims 4 a pair. but mine didnt come with the crossovers, and they were in 6x9 box's when i got them so i didnt know the speaker and tweeter had seperate connection. so my tweets popped real quick so i just used the speaker kinda as a midbass. until i smoked one of em and the one i still got i blew the surround loose. if u decide u wanna get rid of em after u get ur mids and comp set installed let me know

Good luck with finals and I would be glad to speak with you about locations and how to find the best one for your vehicle. As has been suggested, double side tape on the back of the tweeter mount and LOTS of extra wire to move them around will help you determine where to locate them. Plus, since those tweeters have a swivel mount, you can fine tune them once you decide on a good spot. Just be sure to unscrew the flange a little to loosen it up so it moves easier, then when you get it set, tighten it back up.

I was going to call you today to make sure they arrived since I hadn't heard from you, but from the looks of things they made it just fine. I'm just glad they are going to a good home. This is a good guy here fellas, and I look forward to watching this build come along.

Now go ace those finals and get back to work on the car! We want more pics!!!

Sorry about that, I was meaning to send you a PM so you'd know they were in good care. I was also wondering how well you'd say the speakers are broken in, this probably pertains to the V1's, as the 54's you said you had used for a year or so. Yeah next weekend is really the first I'll have most of my tests/finals over. But this weekend is cram, cram, cram. So expect pictures next weekend, if I don't post any flame-post-whore me until I do.

comin along nicely man......how do u like those polk 6x9's? did they come with the crossovers? i traded 3 rusted junk dayton rims 4 a pair. but mine didnt come with the crossovers, and they were in 6x9 box's when i got them so i didnt know the speaker and tweeter had seperate connection. so my tweets popped real quick so i just used the speaker kinda as a midbass. until i smoked one of em and the one i still got i blew the surround loose. if u decide u wanna get rid of em after u get ur mids and comp set installed let me know

I love them. They were, until now the best sounding car speakers I've ever heard. Yes they came with crossovers as the crossovers really make the 3-way design sound good. I'll think about it. Depends on how much I like my front stage. I've never had a decent front stage so I may be a little biased to the rear fill sound and will still require them to make me happy. But if I ever do think about it I'll let you know. Although I just noticed that the left tweet wasn't working correctly and I'll have to do some testing of the speaker and crossover to determine the cause, I ran a quick DCR check of all speakers and they were within normal ranges. So I'm not sure what's going on.

Thanks everyone for being so supportive. I don't think I would do 1/2 as good a job if it weren't from the great support and help from everyone here at SSA and my family/friends here.

Once I get started on the actual build portion I'll be open to suggestions and hints/tricks as I truck along. Hopefully the FL cold wont set me back any.

Thanks again guys,

Nathan Riddle

You did use glue with your box right? I didn't see any dripping glue anywhere.