ok i have a major question i just payed for two of the 12" x series subs on the black "Fi"day sale so my question is are they 300w rms like the site says or really 250w rms beacause if they are 250 i will have to change my order to some different subs because i need more wattage than 250 i was hoping the 300w rms it said on the site was right and maybe even underated so i could push 700w rms through the both of them

If you wanted to push 700 RMS why not have just bought the SSD's?

But on topic, just go with what the site suggest, if they do good, raise the power up but stay clean with it, try it out n see how it works out for YOU.

ok i have a major question i just payed for two of the 12" x series subs on the black "Fi"day sale so my question is are they 300w rms like the site says or really 250w rms beacause if they are 250 i will have to change my order to some different subs because i need more wattage than 250 i was hoping the 300w rms it said on the site was right and maybe even underated so i could push 700w rms through the both of them

What it says is what it says. There are differences between the "old" X's and the "New" X's thus altering the different rms wattages.

Keep the gain down and you will not blow them.. Just don't be a nut behind the volume knob.

you should be ok running 700 to both.

Subwoofers always suffer from box rise, Even after pairing a sub with matched rms amplifier, the subs never ever get the rated power.

some subwoofers like groundzero plutonium can go upto 10ohms impedance !

my fiQ even after wring at 1ohms rises upto 2.5 ohms.

even if you give both of your subs 350rms each, your subs will play cool. so , don't worry and enjoy

Subwoofers always suffer from box rise, Even after pairing a sub with matched rms amplifier, the subs never ever get the rated power.

some subwoofers like groundzero plutonium can go upto 10ohms impedance !

my fiQ even after wring at 1ohms rises upto 2.5 ohms.

even if you give both of your subs 350rms each, your subs will play cool. so , don't worry and enjoy

Have you taken impedance drop due to playing below tuning into consideration?

No, No, No.

and one more No.

Subwoofers always suffer from box rise, Even after pairing a sub with matched rms amplifier, the subs never ever get the rated power.

some subwoofers like groundzero plutonium can go upto 10ohms impedance !

my fiQ even after wring at 1ohms rises upto 2.5 ohms.

even if you give both of your subs 350rms each, your subs will play cool. so , don't worry and enjoy

Have you taken impedance drop due to playing below tuning into consideration?

No, No, No.

and one more No.

the Fi Q was playing n a sealed encloser and ofcourse the plutonium wasn't playing below tuning frequency , coz that will make any1 pretty stupid for a person who bought a 2000$ subwoofer

Subwoofers always suffer from box rise, Even after pairing a sub with matched rms amplifier, the subs never ever get the rated power.

some subwoofers like groundzero plutonium can go upto 10ohms impedance !

my fiQ even after wring at 1ohms rises upto 2.5 ohms.

even if you give both of your subs 350rms each, your subs will play cool. so , don't worry and enjoy

Have you taken impedance drop due to playing below tuning into consideration?

No, No, No.

and one more No.

What? Impedance rises before and after tuning. Pick up Loud speaker Design cookbook or WinISD and look at some resistance / frequency graphs. Also a speakers impedance is never going to drop below its measured/rated impedance especially with power applied (unless the speaker fails).

OP do not count on impedance rise, set gains accordingly, use a different amplifier, or use a different speaker.

Are you saying you plan on running 700w PER woofer or 700w To the PAIR?

For one, 250rms to 300rms shouldn't be an audible difference AT ALL. Just set things correctly and don't get ridiculous. If you see/hear signs of the subs straining, turn it down a bit. No one wants brand new blown subs.

Subwoofers always suffer from box rise, Even after pairing a sub with matched rms amplifier, the subs never ever get the rated power.

some subwoofers like groundzero plutonium can go upto 10ohms impedance !

my fiQ even after wring at 1ohms rises upto 2.5 ohms.

even if you give both of your subs 350rms each, your subs will play cool. so , don't worry and enjoy

Have you taken impedance drop due to playing below tuning into consideration?

No, No, No.

and one more No.

What? Impedance rises before and after tuning. Pick up Loud speaker Design cookbook or WinISD and look at some resistance / frequency graphs. Also a speakers impedance is never going to drop below its measured/rated impedance especially with power applied (unless the speaker fails).

OP do not count on impedance rise, set gains accordingly, use a different amplifier, or use a different speaker.

who said anything about impedence drop ! impedence rise due to box rise dude, box rise!

when coil gets hotter , its resistance increases (coil is made of metal isn't it) - Pick up Loud speaker Design cookbook or go meet an electrical engineer !

Just having more no. of posts on one forum doesn't bend the rules of science .

Do one thing, buy a good multimeter (or borrow it from that electrical engg. ), set it to measure the resistance, play a decent song with variable low ocatves and see what actually happens outside WinIsd - you'l be surprised what you know till now.

who said anything about impedence drop ! impedence rise due to box rise dude, box rise!

when coil gets hotter , its resistance increases (coil is made of metal isn't it) - Pick up Loud speaker Design cookbook or go meet an electrical engineer !

Just having more no. of posts on one forum doesn't bend the rules of science .

Do one thing, buy a good multimeter (or borrow it from that electrical engg. ), set it to measure the resistance, play a decent song with variable low ocatves and see what actually happens outside WinIsd - you'l be surprised what you know till now.

Julian did. And while your borrowing your DMM from the electrical engineer ask them how to use it, can't measure resistance with power applied in a circuit.

Subwoofers always suffer from box rise, Even after pairing a sub with matched rms amplifier, the subs never ever get the rated power.

some subwoofers like groundzero plutonium can go upto 10ohms impedance !

my fiQ even after wring at 1ohms rises upto 2.5 ohms.

even if you give both of your subs 350rms each, your subs will play cool. so , don't worry and enjoy

Have you taken impedance drop due to playing below tuning into consideration?

No, No, No.

and one more No.

after explaining a simple fact of science you still don't think that a hotter coil has higher resistance!

then there is nothing left to explain anymore .

good luck

after explaining a simple fact of science you still don't think that a hotter coil has higher resistance!

then there is nothing left to explain anymore .

good luck

I'm not arguing that it won't rise, If you read my post it is that it won't drop. In an indirect way I even mentioned heat by saying "power applied". I'm not understanding your confusion and hostility.

When the coil gets hot it will change the imp, but understand at different freq an volumes your resistance and power output of the amp will change.

Keep the gain down and you will not blow them.. Just don't be a nut behind the volume knob.

I'm still interested in the true RMS of the subs though, just 'cuz.

The website states what it states. The Black friday subs are the older versions with what looks like double stacks. Newer versions are single slug like the ssd's and Q's. Variations lead to power differences. Running higher power like everyone says is ok just turn down the gain and not go crazy. It should last. The subs we ordered are the older d4's. Newer versions are single vc... with just a tad bit lower power level. If i'm not mistaken.. the newer versions has the option to add BP which bumps the power level up slightly. In the end... they are close to being equal in wattage.

This thread is the most inaccurate info ever.

Start from the top.

To the OP. If your using a 700rms amp, two X's will be fine, just set gains. There's a sticky in the amp section if you don't know how.

Now to the rest of the idiots. Don't reply if you have any doubt your info may not be correct. Your making noobs EVEN dumber cause your a noob.

Idiots, I swear.

Pretty much. There was one critical piece of information though that was correct.

You will NOT hear a difference between 500w and 700w on ANY subwoofer (that can take both amounts of power) so why bother doing anything other than setting your 700w amp to output 500w. BY FAR the best idea and nothing else will make sense.

*of course I'll let you choose how and where you set it to 500w as we all know songs aren't recording equally. Considering, just set them by ear with appropriate songs for your listening habits, just don't be dumb about it.

Pretty much. There was one critical piece of information though that was correct.

You will NOT hear a difference between 500w and 700w on ANY subwoofer (that can take both amounts of power) so why bother doing anything other than setting your 700w amp to output 500w. BY FAR the best idea and nothing else will make sense.

*of course I'll let you choose how and where you set it to 500w as we all know songs aren't recording equally. Considering, just set them by ear with appropriate songs for your listening habits, just don't be dumb about it.

That was me!

Amp headroom never hurts, it will actually help with your sound quality.

The RMS rating of a subwoofer has asolutely nothing to do with output.... Why is this BS still on this forum?

The RMS rating of a subwoofer has absolutely, and I mean absolutely nothing to do with the power required to drive a loudspeaker to full output...

There is no such thing as "impedance rise". There is an impedance curve, it goes up and down.

System impedance cannot drop below DCR, ever. If you think you have measured this, your either full of crap or have no idea what you are doing...

Only an idiot would spec out power before figuring out box alignment....