March 5, 201114 yr Thanks! My cousin stopped by today and took a quick listen, he said something along the lines of "Holy crap that's retarded for 150 watts." I built a nice 7f net box @ 36Hz for 2 IA LI 15's for the trunk of his Buick, powered by an AP1500. He said after a minute or two that it was louder that his install. We're going to drop his setup in his Durango soon though, so there may be a build posted. With rock I've been loving the sound with this low power. My mids can't keep up enough to make snappy kick-drums in music like Devildrivers Clouds over California sound like I would like, but from lots of listening and testing I believe the sub itself isn't at all to blame. I'm crossed over around 60Hz, and the really deep sound of the sub just overpowers my anemic 80-200Hz that makes some rock to me. I'm sure with a bit better front stage (which is in the works) it will sound better. 99% of songs sound wonderful. I listened to every Chevelle CD made, Underoath, Destroy the Runner, Crystal Method, Atreyu, Devil Wears Prada, and lots of Rap, C&S music, etc and it all sounds great. I can't compare it to the XCON or Havoc, but in it's "Class" and power rating it sounds like I would expect, or a bit better.With my last 2 Warden 21 setup I was pretty happy, but following it up with this sub makes me realize what I've been missing for some time. You can hear the full sound of different low frequency instruments much better. It may just be me but every drum (make/brand or whatever) has it's own sound and tonality. Many subs you just sort of hear- "oh that was a 40hz drum hit", where I hear a lot more than just 1 note, I feel like I'm hearing a much more full sound. I truthfully don't have the words or SQ experience to give the review I would like to or this sub deserves, but I'm definitely sticking with T3 as long as their CS is as good as it was with this purchase.Why cant you compare it to XCON or Havoc?This sub looks similar to the TC Sounds LMC Ultra 5400, I wonder what the differences are.
March 5, 201114 yr The T3 and TC Sounds doesn't share much beside the basket. The old TSNS was a version of a 4HP motor IIRC though. So this is why you might think they are similar.Plus the LMS has a patented coil technology that's different than your started wound coil.
March 11, 201114 yr Author Why cant you compare it to XCON or Havoc?This sub looks similar to the TC Sounds LMC Ultra 5400, I wonder what the differences are.Because those subs sound really good, but are just in a totally different power range. Comparing them to the TSNS would be apples and oranges imo. You really have to start looking at things like the Fi BTL, DC Lvl 5, AA SMD, RD SHW, IA Warden, and so on to have a fair comparison when looking at power handling and intended use.
March 20, 201114 yr Nice score on the amp Troy.One way or another, you get that shit hooked up before I come over. lol
March 20, 201114 yr Author Thanks! I'm going to use the 2 1/2" copper bars for + and ground right next to the amp. I'm thinking 5 runs of power and ground a foot or less from the inputs, then the 2 runs straight into the amp. I don't feel like getting new busbars made that plug into the amp, so this should still help a lot.Anyway, I'm not sure when I'll have time to get the amp in I'm just neck deep in work. Also I'm debating on where to mount the amp until I get the other subs in.
March 24, 201114 yr Author I did one alternator so I can swap it in my drivers position, take off the black one, and get the remaining three taken care of. I need these alts on here pretty quick, but it'll be a few weeks till they're completed.This is just the standard aluminum pulley, I had someone want black pulleys so I just got a few extra done at the same time. I'll have some new pics in a few days with this installed with black pulley.
March 24, 201114 yr Troy, what are the windings for sticking out the back?Maybe I missed why you said it.
March 24, 201114 yr Author Stator windings, the alt doesn't have rectifier/voltage regulator/brushes in place- actually it isn't even bolted together in that pic. I just sat the pieces together to decide if I'd like it before closing it up and soldering everything in- give me the option of a different color.
March 24, 201114 yr Ohhhhh.I see now. Damn I feel like a idiot.I thought you had come up with some new style of windings.
March 24, 201114 yr damn troy. cant wait for this gonna have to meet you and check it out looken good :popcorn:
March 24, 201114 yr I'm ready to hear your thoughts on the SD.As of the myth they don't have great lowend without help. So whenever you get enough time I'd like to hear your opinion. And I'm sure other people will like to hear too.
April 1, 201114 yr Author Thanks again guys!I started on a new amp/ busbar rack.Out with the old, just a carpeted 3/4" MDF board:Starting the new Baltic birch rackend caps:Taking the wires loose from the old busbars to get them out of the way:1/2" Birch, really couldn't see a reason to use 3/4". Cutting to fit the seat frameAnd a front piece
April 1, 201114 yr Author Added the rest of the filler plates, they fit from seat to floor and cover everything once the seats are upright.Then I started on the top plate, I want the amp flush mounted with a 1/8" gap on all sidesThen I stopped, looked at it a bit, and realized it looked like crap. Not at all what I pictured in my head, just not clean enough. I made it like this to make it easy to do the wiring for the busbars, but I figured I'd rather fight with it than have it look bad.
April 1, 201114 yr Author Back to the base, I removed all the sides and threw it on the table saw. A few inches later it looks a lot better to me.I also increased the overall height of the rack to fit a tad closer to the seat so there's almost no gap. This meant new end caps and center divider- also I made a false floor inside the amp area to angle the amp with the top of the rack. Once that was done I painted the amps compartment black. The busbar area will be white, but I don't want people to see into the small gap around the amp.While that was drying I cleaned up the existing wiring, removed an OOOLD 1/4" aluminum ground busbar. It was grounded to the frame and had 3/8" bolts for the amps, but it's been upgraded by a lot lol. Oh- and my brothers chainsaw leaked oil on the carpet a while back - I'll be shampooing or replacing the whole thing since those stains are looking nasty. I'll probably wait until my kids get older and stop messing everything up.Wrapped in vinyl that matches my interior panels:False floor for the busbarsAnd that's it this week, back to real work. 4 more runs of 1/0, install the busbars, and start on the battery rack next week.
April 1, 201114 yr You wanted clean and you delivered!! Very Nice!! Looking forward to seeing the bussbars mounted.
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