Let's say a magical amplifier was 100% efficient, meaning it didn't lose any power to heat, etc. At 14.0v it would require 107amperes to produce 1498watts. There is no way for an amp to produce more power then the amperage and voltage it's being ran on.

And most amps are measured at higher frequencies and higher ohm loads then what they'll actually be used for. At least in your case. Saz1500d for example, Efficiency : 86% @ 4 ohm, at 100Hz. You'll likely have it crossed a fair amount lower, it'll be playing frequencies even lower, and your probably going to wire down to 1ohm, so your real world efficiency is going to drop.

Now let me blow your mind, there's this thing called impedance rise, and well, once you start playing music, tones, what ever, the voicecoils on the driver will heat up and the impedance will rise a fair amount. Meaning you'll never really see 1500watts, at least for very long.

Oh and music is dynamic unlike a sine wave, so even impedance rise thrown to the side, you'll never have a constant 1500watts to your drivers (not even close).

Physics

Can't 1500 watts at 1 ohm just be 1500 watts at 1 ohm!

How fun it is to dream....

In all honesty, this is how it is, there is no circumventing, there is no good reason for worrying about it unless you are competing seriously.

If so then you already know all about impedance rise and enclosure volumes, their correlation, tuning for peak frequency, burp boxes, driver & port positioning, cabin gain, and how to put it all together...

Let's say a magical amplifier was 100% efficient, meaning it didn't lose any power to heat, etc. At 14.0v it would require 107amperes to produce 1498watts. There is no way for an amp to produce more power then the amperage and voltage it's being ran on.

And most amps are measured at higher frequencies and higher ohm loads then what they'll actually be used for. At least in your case. Saz1500d for example, Efficiency : 86% @ 4 ohm, at 100Hz. You'll likely have it crossed a fair amount lower, it'll be playing frequencies even lower, and your probably going to wire down to 1ohm, so your real world efficiency is going to drop.

Now let me blow your mind, there's this thing called impedance rise, and well, once you start playing music, tones, what ever, the voicecoils on the driver will heat up and the impedance will rise a fair amount. Meaning you'll never really see 1500watts, at least for very long.

Oh and music is dynamic unlike a sine wave, so even impedance rise thrown to the side, you'll never have a constant 1500watts to your drivers (not even close).

Physics

Can't 1500 watts at 1 ohm just be 1500 watts at 1 ohm!

How fun it is to dream....

In all honesty, this is how it is, there is no circumventing, there is no good reason for worrying about it unless you are competing seriously.

If so then you already know all about impedance rise and enclosure volumes, their correlation, tuning for peak frequency, burp boxes, driver & port positioning, cabin gain, and how to put it all together...

And kaboom, DBzzzzz...lol.

But to the op though, don't stress and try to understand this all at once. Once you have stuff in your hands to play with and test things will be much much easier than reading through here. Don't base your purchases on things like Impedance rise or Inductance. Just pick whatever you want and buy it. Nobody else needs to be happy.

There is no impedance rise, more like a "peak" in impedance, impedance fluctuates with coil movement.

There is no impedance rise, more like a "peak" in impedance, impedance fluctuates with coil movement.

Exactly. "Box rise" is really only a major concern to a burp box to figure out the final wattage and impediance load. When your listening to music your rise is going all over the place depending on enclosure, port, the music etc etc.

To the OP for 1500 watts get a solid batt under your hood and a decent 100AH batt for the back. If your alt is actually a 150 amp alt then you should be fine as long as your wiring is the correct size and done properly. Remember that the quality of your grounds is just as important as anything else. And as far as the performance of the sundowns at 1 ohm, they do great. You can run these amps at .5 ohm if you want to but as stated before your efficiency goes down and current draw goes up.

Damnnnn. Appreciate the knowledge guys, you guys help me so much. Alright, I ordered my shit last week so they should come in soon. But still trying to figure out about my batteries. . . Any.. Recommendations?

Damnnnn. Appreciate the knowledge guys, you guys help me so much. Alright, I ordered my shit last week so they should come in soon. But still trying to figure out about my batteries. . . Any.. Recommendations?

I run a Sundown SAZ1500 on the stock electrical with a Sears Diehard Platinum in my Toyota Solara. I recommend the Sears Diehard Platinum. It's a rebadged Oddysey, can be picked up at any Sears, has a 4 year warranty, costs ~200 bucks. So no having to pay shipping when you buy it, easy to get replaced if you kill it and again no shipping, and it is a fantastic battery!!

Good luck on your system.

A lot of good info in this one

I think all of this good info should be placed all in one thread...

thanks for the help guys

thanks for the help guys

Haha im in my final year of highschool too you should be fine with the amp. Run it with proper electrical=no problems. You should run a couple duralst golds. For 90 bucks each you cant go wrong.