Starting a thread on this based on some questions we've had... any further inquiries post them up and we'll see about getting some photos up.

So... any re-cone questions post them up.

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1) New large wire terminal installation :

It is critical to have this facing the correct direction -- otherwise the cone and spider can batter the tab and break it off. You can also experience mechanical noise if they are not aligned in this manner.

* These new terminals fit much larger wire.

* The black terminal is incorrect -- the red terminal is correct and set out to the side.

* To install the leads first split the terminal with a small cutting pliers

* Then spread the opening to slide the lead in

* Dual flat Z v.3 type leads in this example; stick them in the crimp the split back together

* Now solder and trim the excess below the tab to prevent shorting to the frame

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2) Making shims for your re-cone

I suggest white paper -- you can adjust the number of sheets to fully fill the ID gap to make SURE the coil is aligned. I don't like card stock as it's not as flexible with the thickness and is often too loose or too tight.

* For an SA-8 or anything with less than a 3" coil you'll need to trim the paper down a bit so it doesn't wrap back around itself

* For a 3" coil standard 8.5" width is fine -- we usually trim it down a bit shorter to make working with it easier

* As you can see we can adjust the thickness readily by adding or removing sheets

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3) Lazy Susan for easy re-coning

We made ours from two woofer cut-outs and a bearing set from Lowes available near the cabinet rails and cabinet hardware.

* We covered the top in leather to not scratch the motor

* Back has no covering

* Bearings -- these are durable... we build our biggest subs on them

Edited August 31, 201114 yr by sundownz

i love this post.

Nice and informative, I like it. How about some tips on applying the dustcap neatly as alot of recones I've seen lately are quite nasty.

great topic,

im sure many will find this helpful, its awesome that you are willing to help people DYI... above and beyond,.

thanks jacob

Do all recones come with new terminals if new baskets were ordered?

why not create the standard "thickness" for each kit recon?

Some companies create "centering" for their recon kit

or you can create templates, where you can replace all the basket and recon, simply by unscrewing and replacing them ...

Also, take a piece of tape and fold it over and work it around the inside of the motor to remove any debris...

And tape off the motor and scuff the areas that are going to be glued with sandpaper or wire brush and clean the sanded areas up with acetone...

just a few tips i learned during my re-cone of an sa-15

Do all recones come with new terminals if new baskets were ordered?

If you purchase a basket we will send terminals with it.

The new big terminals work best with the new frames as well due to the size of the hole for terminal mounting.

Nice and informative, I like it. How about some tips on applying the dustcap neatly as alot of recones I've seen lately are quite nasty.

Okay, we will do a dust cap one soon.

What size do the new terminals take looks like 8ga

jacob can you recone my 12'' ti basket with sundown parts if i send it to you

why not create the standard "thickness" for each kit recon?

Some companies create "centering" for their recon kit

or you can create templates, where you can replace all the basket and recon, simply by unscrewing and replacing them ...

Price, paper is cheap and everyone has it.

What size do the new terminals take looks like 8ga

I think the old ones accept 8awg and the larger ones are for 4awg

sweet. when i made shims for my re-cone i offset the paper openings from one another, i didnt want to leave a gap like the one shown above.

not saying you did it wrong, but i was being "better safe than sorry" at the time. doubt the coil will move when over 90% is wrapped with paper.

Edited September 1, 201114 yr by beandip

sweet. when i made shims for my re-cone i offset the paper openings from one another, i didnt want to leave a gap like the one shown above.

not saying you did it wrong, but i was being "better safe than sorry" at the time. doubt the coil will move when over 90% is wrapped with paper.

That's what I thought of when I saw it, but I'm sure Jacob has done a few more than I have.

sweet. when i made shims for my re-cone i offset the paper openings from one another, i didnt want to leave a gap like the one shown above.

not saying you did it wrong, but i was being "better safe than sorry" at the time. doubt the coil will move when over 90% is wrapped with paper.

The coil isn't supposed to move at this point. It's kinda easier if the coil has little movement and can (lightly) hold it's own downwards tension while the spider is glued. Maybe that's just me though...

sweet. when i made shims for my re-cone i offset the paper openings from one another, i didnt want to leave a gap like the one shown above.

not saying you did it wrong, but i was being "better safe than sorry" at the time. doubt the coil will move when over 90% is wrapped with paper.

That's what I thought of when I saw it, but I'm sure Jacob has done a few more than I have.

yeah i would say quite a bit more LOL

sweet. when i made shims for my re-cone i offset the paper openings from one another, i didnt want to leave a gap like the one shown above.

not saying you did it wrong, but i was being "better safe than sorry" at the time. doubt the coil will move when over 90% is wrapped with paper.

The coil isn't supposed to move at this point. It's kinda easier if the coil has little movement and can (lightly) hold it's own downwards tension while the spider is glued. Maybe that's just me though...

^ i agree, mine wasnt super tight on the fitting but wasnt loose either. it would hold itself down while the epoxy set. i was just saying its like having 1 lug nut missing on a rim...sure the wheel wont fall off with the other 4 holding it, but it wouldnt hurt to have all 5.

in my case i needed 3 layers, so i cut each piece to where it wraps around the coil about what Jacobs did but rotated each layer 120º so it would be one continuous piece and the gaps would be evenly spaced apart from each other. then cut a notch in the paper so i could easily align it once it was set in the coil gap. also a roll of masking tape was perfect holding the shim in its form.

but like i said i doubt the coil will go anywhere with it being wrapped around over 90%...just something i did since it seemed logical and it was my first time and didnt want anything to be messed up.

Edited September 1, 201114 yr by beandip

The coil cannot move around in any way with our described shim method

what size wire do the larger terminals take? are they the new standard for all new models?