I have been trying to plan out a complete system for my new 2011 malibu. I own 2 sa12s so those will be my sub stage. Amp I have my eye on a crescendo bc2000. Slight electrical upgrades will follow

My situation... I want a clean front stage, my systems to date have all been drowned out by bass and I don't want that for this build. Although I'm not willing to do any heavy modifications.. I will be using stock locations. Doors take a 6.5 and there is a tweeter cutout in the pillar so a component set is what I'll do.

Rear speaker cut outs are 6 x 9s I don't plan to seal off the trunk from the cab at this time.. maybe after I've got a system in there and play with it but I don't want to. Will replacing those rear speakers do anything for me? I see alot of people around here who say rear speakers is a wste of money. Will 6 x 9s in the back help me at all and since they share the truck space with the subs will the underneath pressure hurt them at all?

My main concern is ruining the resale of this vehicle with a complex install. I don't want to cut and drill into it everywhere for this install. Anything you guys can add to this would help me, I'm in the planning stage and Im trying to plan this right.

what have been your front stage in past vehicles? whats your budget?

edit:

if you haven't done this already in the past:

id focus your budget on a set of components that can handle a good bit of power and amp them. sound deaden/ seal the doors, etc.

if that didnt' work then we can consider other options, like an active frontstage, etc.

rear speakers wont do anything good, i would just forget about them now.

Like said above get a decent pair of components to put in the front doors, amp the components. Dont put any speakers in the rear deck, the subs will drown them out and depending on how your rear deck is made it may damage them. I would just leave the stock 6x9" speakers in the car and if need be phase them out so there not on.

Incriminator Audio just came out with some nice components, Aura on parts-express.com has a nice sale on component speakers as well.

Aura is nice !

But you need to tell us a budget for the comp set. There are too much choice out there.

Listen to what Lithium told you. 100% !

Forget the rear speakers.

Budget is about $200. I've had my eye on the fosgate t2 component set and would give them about 100 rms ea. Only other component set I've had experience with is the zapco i6 set which I wasn't excited about. I'll leave the rear speakers alone then. I have about 30 sds cld tiles left over from my Tahoe build so deadening the doors will happen. I'm not 100% sure I know how to do that properly. The way I did it in my Tahoe was use the tiles to seal up all the holes in the metal to seal the door but I didn't notice shit after I did it. Felt like a waste or I just did something wrong?

did you amp your past set ups?

sds, get reading! check out the sound deadening section of the forum as well.

-sounds like you didn't deaden things correctly last time.

30 tiles will be plenty to do the front doors and more. i did my bro's 04 sentra with ~40 tiles total. front doors, rear deck, roof, trunk floor/walls, and trunk lid.

followed by mlv and ccf in the front doors. don (sds) believes you dont need to seal the access holes in the doors if you use mlv in the manner he describes. or if you dont want to spend cash on mlv, i would use sheet metal or fg to seal holes instead of sds tiles.

try the "ask don of sds thread" for specific help.

is that 200 for speakers and amp? the IA comps and Aura sound comps have been mentioned. not sure how much power the aura can take or how loud they can get compared to the IA or others. parts-express also has a sale on the aura sound amps, i recommend them if you haven't picked an amp yet. the larger of the two 2-channels for 99 would be great.

I love a good soundstage. I am more SQ orientated than SPL and I do have rear fill. I like a slight presence of rear fill to add a little ambiance. You do want to keep your rear fill frequencies limited to low passed signals in the midrange. Higher frequencies are more locatable and can pull your soundstage behind you.

Since you want a simple install for your rear fill I recommend sealed back drivers for the rear deck install. Goldwood GM-85/4 5" Heavy Duty Sealed Back Midrange 4 Ohm from parts-express would work well for your rear fill. You can buy or make adapter plates to mount them without modification to the factory speaker location.

I love a good soundstage. I am more SQ orientated than SPL and I do have rear fill. I like a slight presence of rear fill to add a little ambiance. You do want to keep your rear fill frequencies limited to low passed signals in the midrange. Higher frequencies are more locatable and can pull your soundstage behind you.

Since you want a simple install for your rear fill I recommend sealed back drivers for the rear deck install. Goldwood GM-85/4 5" Heavy Duty Sealed Back Midrange 4 Ohm from parts-express would work well for your rear fill. You can buy or make adapter plates to mount them without modification to the factory speaker location.

umm no.. thats not how to properly do rear fill. the op doesn't need rear fill, he needs a proper front stage.

I love a good soundstage. I am more SQ orientated than SPL and I do have rear fill. I like a slight presence of rear fill to add a little ambiance. You do want to keep your rear fill frequencies limited to low passed signals in the midrange. Higher frequencies are more locatable and can pull your soundstage behind you.

Since you want a simple install for your rear fill I recommend sealed back drivers for the rear deck install. Goldwood GM-85/4 5" Heavy Duty Sealed Back Midrange 4 Ohm from parts-express would work well for your rear fill. You can buy or make adapter plates to mount them without modification to the factory speaker location.

umm no.. thats not how to properly do rear fill. the op doesn't need rear fill, he needs a proper front stage.

You clearly have no idea what you are talking about.

Rears in a rear deck will be torn apart by pressure from the subs unless you build enclosures around them in most cases. Rears in a door are fine as long but sometimes tweeters back there can play with your ears. It's best to have them down low or on less power than the fronts if you HAVE to have them.

And for like the 10000000th time, let him try with stock rears, turning them on and off and let HIM decide which way is better. You can't assume that he'll like all fronts. Also, in some cases rears can help the mids & highs cut through the bass but sound stage goes out the window in that case.

I love a good soundstage. I am more SQ orientated than SPL and I do have rear fill. I like a slight presence of rear fill to add a little ambiance. You do want to keep your rear fill frequencies limited to low passed signals in the midrange. Higher frequencies are more locatable and can pull your soundstage behind you.

Since you want a simple install for your rear fill I recommend sealed back drivers for the rear deck install. Goldwood GM-85/4 5" Heavy Duty Sealed Back Midrange 4 Ohm from parts-express would work well for your rear fill. You can buy or make adapter plates to mount them without modification to the factory speaker location.

umm no.. thats not how to properly do rear fill. the op doesn't need rear fill, he needs a proper front stage.

You clearly have no idea what you are talking about.

Actually you dont, you stated how you want to limit the rear fill to speakers that dont play high pass frequencies. Then you totally go against that statement and suggest a sealed back midrange driver .

Dont do any speakers in the rear deck unless you seal off trunk or your just gonna damage those speakers. For now dont waste any money on rear speakers until you set your system up and give it a listen. Like I stated about keep factory speakers in there on radio power and you will be fine. If your set on changing them out then you can get a pair of components for the front and coaxials for the back.

No, he recommended the right speaker? He said low passed midrange for ambiance. Tweeters can really confuse the stage so he wants the op to leave them out.

No, he recommended the right speaker? He said low passed midrange for ambiance. Tweeters can really confuse the stage so he wants the op to leave them out.

Ive dealt with these type of speakers, sealed back drivers are directional and I doubt the OP will bandpass them to only play a few hertz (that would be a waste). Thats more work and requires an expensive amp or headunit. Regardless rear deck speakers are a waste unless the trunk is sealed off. Why by speakers just to damage them?

By the way tweeters are not the only directional speakers that confuse a stage.

I love a good soundstage. I am more SQ orientated than SPL and I do have rear fill. I like a slight presence of rear fill to add a little ambiance. You do want to keep your rear fill frequencies limited to low passed signals in the midrange. Higher frequencies are more locatable and can pull your soundstage behind you.

Since you want a simple install for your rear fill I recommend sealed back drivers for the rear deck install. Goldwood GM-85/4 5" Heavy Duty Sealed Back Midrange 4 Ohm from parts-express would work well for your rear fill. You can buy or make adapter plates to mount them without modification to the factory speaker location.

umm no.. thats not how to properly do rear fill. the op doesn't need rear fill, he needs a proper front stage.

You clearly have no idea what you are talking about.

Actually you dont, you stated how you want to limit the rear fill to speakers that dont play high pass frequencies. Then you totally go against that statement and suggest a sealed back midrange driver .

Dont do any speakers in the rear deck unless you seal off trunk or your just gonna damage those speakers. For now dont waste any money on rear speakers until you set your system up and give it a listen. Like I stated about keep factory speakers in there on radio power and you will be fine. If your set on changing them out then you can get a pair of components for the front and coaxials for the back.

Lol. Another clueless post.

I love a good soundstage. I am more SQ orientated than SPL and I do have rear fill. I like a slight presence of rear fill to add a little ambiance. You do want to keep your rear fill frequencies limited to low passed signals in the midrange. Higher frequencies are more locatable and can pull your soundstage behind you.

Since you want a simple install for your rear fill I recommend sealed back drivers for the rear deck install. Goldwood GM-85/4 5" Heavy Duty Sealed Back Midrange 4 Ohm from parts-express would work well for your rear fill. You can buy or make adapter plates to mount them without modification to the factory speaker location.

umm no.. thats not how to properly do rear fill. the op doesn't need rear fill, he needs a proper front stage.

You clearly have no idea what you are talking about.

Actually you dont, you stated how you want to limit the rear fill to speakers that dont play high pass frequencies. Then you totally go against that statement and suggest a sealed back midrange driver .

Dont do any speakers in the rear deck unless you seal off trunk or your just gonna damage those speakers. For now dont waste any money on rear speakers until you set your system up and give it a listen. Like I stated about keep factory speakers in there on radio power and you will be fine. If your set on changing them out then you can get a pair of components for the front and coaxials for the back.

Lol. Another clueless post.

your absolutely correct buddy, Im gonna go buy me some Goldwoods today. Haha thanks for the negativity

Wow this thread jumped off while I was at work. Let me try to recall what may have been asked.... was my old comp set amped..yes it is mbquart 4125 I think it is. Have I read the sds section? No I have not good idea. My rears are ONLY 6x9 in the rear deck and I'm going to leave those alone for now. Eventually I'll mes with them and see if its something I want but not now. My budget is 200 on just components. Amp is seperate. Any negatives or positives on the fosgate t2 component set? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures_new.php?id=22595&picture_id=-1 my buddy has the t1 comp set in his truck and they seem to sound great. I understand there different vehicles but the speakers seem to be good. Amp is undecided at this time but will be looking for 100rms per ch.

I'm on my tablet that link for the speakers is just pics..pos.. I can't get the link to copy but if you care to look for them you will find them

Wow this thread jumped off while I was at work. Let me try to recall what may have been asked.... was my old comp set amped..yes it is mbquart 4125 I think it is. Have I read the sds section? No I have not good idea. My rears are ONLY 6x9 in the rear deck and I'm going to leave those alone for now. Eventually I'll mes with them and see if its something I want but not now. My budget is 200 on just components. Amp is seperate. Any negatives or positives on the fosgate t2 component set? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/pictures_new.php?id=22595&picture_id=-1 my buddy has the t1 comp set in his truck and they seem to sound great. I understand there different vehicles but the speakers seem to be good. Amp is undecided at this time but will be looking for 100rms per ch.

ok if you got an amp then lets figure out which comp set to get. i dont know anything about the t2's, they have some nice features like tweet attenuation, and bi amp-able. do you like metal tweeters?

does the comp set your buddy run get loud enough for you?

speaker installs are really subjective, its hard to offer up a recommendation. and install is a huge factor of performance.

any interest in going active? might have to swap out your head unit, but the end results could be better.

I don't have an amp to use in this vehicle right now.. the stuff mentioned..zapco components and MB quart amp all installed in my Tahoe now. This new vehicle is 100% stock. I don't even have a head unit set in stone yet. Aw far as an active setup Ive never tried it. But I do know there is alot of tweaking to get it right and I'm not sure I want to learn on this vehicle. So right now I would rather not go active. Its something foreign to me. Aluminum tweaters.. don't know if I like them, I believe that is the difference between the t1 and t2 components. My friends gets plenty loud. How would an aluminum tweeter be described as far as how it sounds? I appreciate the help so far.

I don't have an amp to use in this vehicle right now.. the stuff mentioned..zapco components and MB quart amp all installed in my Tahoe now. This new vehicle is 100% stock. I don't even have a head unit set in stone yet. Aw far as an active setup Ive never tried it. But I do know there is alot of tweaking to get it right and I'm not sure I want to learn on this vehicle. So right now I would rather not go active. Its something foreign to me. Aluminum tweaters.. don't know if I like them, I believe that is the difference between the t1 and t2 components. My friends gets plenty loud. How would an aluminum tweeter be described as far as how it sounds? I appreciate the help so far.

depending on the quality of the tweeter, metal tweeters generally sound more precise and brighter. while non-metal tweeters generally are more laid back, smooth.

if there's a shop near by that carries decent gear i would go by and listen to the different tweeters and find ones that you like. that may help you decide what to look at next.

the thing is, im not sure if i should recommend that you get the set your friend has because they get loud enough and you like the sound, or recommend you find something else.

honestly if you like the T1's and they get loud enough, save some cash and get them instead of the T2's.

for headunit, i recommend you take this chance and find a nice alpine unit like the cda 9835 9833 9855 or 9853, used (on ebay for example) for about 150, plenty of other options for active hu's as well. with a unit like this you can go active and not have to worry about getting a new headunit later. this option give you an upgrade option later on when you feel like a component set is no longer cutting it. personally i would never buy a component set over $200 simply because i know i can find better speakers for less and put together a great active setup. unless you have something else in mind, gps, double din?

amps, you have 2 options, biamp or not to biamp. any preference?

Not sure I understand bi amping.. as far as head units I've been eyeballing a pioneer double din 3300 bt. But just looking. Good idea on keeping the upgrade option open for the future. I'll take a look at those head unit on eBay. I actually think I had one of those in the past. Probably go out this weekend and check out a few shops. Nothing great around here but I may have some luck with tweeter selection

Not sure I understand bi amping.. as far as head units I've been eyeballing a pioneer double din 3300 bt. But just looking. Good idea on keeping the upgrade option open for the future. I'll take a look at those head unit on eBay. I actually think I had one of those in the past. Probably go out this weekend and check out a few shops. Nothing great around here but I may have some luck with tweeter selection

bi amping just gives you the ability to send a certain amount of power to the tweeter and mid. you would need a 4 channel amp or two 2 channel amps. but there is also an attenuation on the crossover so you can "turn down" the tweeter even if your not biamping.

I'll need to try an active setup in my Tahoe soon. Its parked until the weekends so plenty of time to play with it and I'm not worried about screwing it up. Plus I believe I have a head unit that would be perfect for doing so...decisions decisions.. maybe take the head unit out of the Tahoe and use it here.....sorry I'm rambling. I appreciate all your advice. Looks like I'm going to do this in steps.. depending on how I like the tweeters I hear I'll go t1's or t2's then consider what amp I'll run to them. This thread has gone way off topic. I labeled it rear speakers when I had a million other things on my mind. Lol. I'll create a new thread labeled appropriately when the next question pops up.

that all sounds good. nothing to really screw up with an active set up. it will just sound like shit till you tune it properly.