I have a pair of DCON 12's and I blew one of them so looking to get a pair of new woofers. I loved how the DCON's sounded but looking to maximize my amp's power.

The subs I am looking at are AQ SDC2.5, Obsidian Audio 12, Sundown SD-2 and they are within my budget of $350. They will be powered by an AQ1200D.

I have a enclosure built by DC Creations and it made my DCON slam hard.

If you guys have another suggestion I'm all ears.

Can you wait for the release of the FCON? Filling the gap between the DCON and ICON with a 600w power rating and are right up the alley on the power of that amp.

Can you wait for the release of the FCON? Filling the gap between the DCON and ICON with a 600w power rating and are right up the alley on the power of that amp.

EDIT: Reading fail.

That is all.

Edited February 13, 201213 yr by An-i-no

Recone the DCON!

You guys know when the FCON will be in production? I would love to get a FCON but I I can't live without bass in my car its like I feel incomplete. lol

Recone the DCON!

x 2 !

Cheapest solution for you, OP !

Do you know how you blew the sub ?

You could blow any other woofer , you never know. Be careful

Do you know how you blew the sub ?

overpowering them + I wasn't watching the clip light on the remote bass knob. I'm going to relocate my remote so it is easily visible

Do you know how you blew the sub ?

overpowering them + I wasn't watching the clip light on the remote bass knob. I'm going to relocate my remote so it is easily visible

From what I've hear from other members, is that those clip lights are inaccurate or useless, idk, maybe somebody can chime in on that one. But mine is on the center console, on the side of my drive shaft, and points up. Its right next to my voltmeter, I monitor both nonstop hehe. Even if it is inaccurate, its still something ya know.

Recone the DCON!

x 2 !

Cheapest solution for you, OP !

x3

Do you know how you blew the sub ?

overpowering them + I wasn't watching the clip light on the remote bass knob. I'm going to relocate my remote so it is easily visible

From what I've hear from other members, is that those clip lights are inaccurate or useless, idk, maybe somebody can chime in on that one. But mine is on the center console, on the side of my drive shaft, and points up. Its right next to my voltmeter, I monitor both nonstop hehe. Even if it is inaccurate, its still something ya know.

there are only two ways in which a subwoofer can fail, thermal failure or mechanical failure. your subwoofer will "tell" you when it is being stressed. or more simply, if you can hear distortion turn it down.

Edited February 14, 201213 yr by lithium

I have a pair of DCON 12's and I blew one of them so looking to get a pair of new woofers. I loved how the DCON's sounded but looking to maximize my amp's power.

The subs I am looking at are AQ SDC2.5, Obsidian Audio 12, Sundown SD-2 and they are within my budget of $350. They will be powered by an AQ1200D.

I have a enclosure built by DC Creations and it made my DCON slam hard.

If you guys have another suggestion I'm all ears.

given you budget you could locate some used subwoofer, fi ssd for example, for about that price. expand the budget up to 400 and you could probably pick up a pair of used icons.

I would first check and see that your music is clip free with windows media player's scope feature along with audacity checks, then make sure your not clipping through your H/U or amplifier once you know you have clip free music then you'll have no problem putting as much as twice and even more power to your subs. Just make sure that if you begin to smell your coils to back a few clicks off the volume to lower and stop the clipping or overpowering them.

EDIT: Anything within your budget from the selection will work quite well.

Edited February 14, 201213 yr by Skullz

I would first check and see that your music is clip free with windows media player's scope feature along with audacity checks, then make sure your not clipping through your H/U or amplifier once you know you have clip free music then you'll have no problem putting as much as twice and even more power to your subs. Just make sure that if you begin to smell your coils to back a few clicks off the volume to lower and stop the clipping or overpowering them.

EDIT: Anything within your budget from the selection will work quite well.

clipping does not cause damage on its own. like i said above, there are only two ways to kill a woofer.

some reading

http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm

http://www.bcae1.com/speakrat.htm

clipping does not cause damage on its own. like i said above, there are only two ways to kill a woofer.

some reading

http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm

http://www.bcae1.com/speakrat.htm

So your saying it is absolutely fine to play hard clipped music at full tilt with no worries of destroying your subs?

Clipping is the number one cause of speaker failures and to suggest that clipping can not cause it on it's own is a lie.

Clipping leads to the overheating of the coil at a higher rate than you'll see from sending 2 to 3 times the power cause the coil can make use of the full piston travel of a clean sine wave VS. a clipped signal that prevents the speaker from full travel and leads to overheating and finally a failure of the coil.

I'm no expert on the matter but clipping and distortion are the bane of all audio and we all strive to have as little of it as possible.

Any specs on the f cons? So i take it its between the dcon and icon?

Any specs on the f cons? So i take it its between the dcon and icon?

We will release the T/S when the sub's are ready to go.

Eta? Cant wait to see them and hear em!

clipping does not cause damage on its own. like i said above, there are only two ways to kill a woofer.

some reading

http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm

http://www.bcae1.com/speakrat.htm

So your saying it is absolutely fine to play hard clipped music at full tilt with no worries of destroying your subs?

Clipping is the number one cause of speaker failures and to suggest that clipping can not cause it on it's own is a lie.

Clipping leads to the overheating of the coil at a higher rate than you'll see from sending 2 to 3 times the power cause the coil can make use of the full piston travel of a clean sine wave VS. a clipped signal that prevents the speaker from full travel and leads to overheating and finally a failure of the coil.

I'm no expert on the matter but clipping and distortion are the bane of all audio and we all strive to have as little of it as possible.

Distortion and the shape of the signal aren't what causes damage, it's the fact that a heavily clipped signal contains significantly more average power over time than an unclipped signal. If we were to compare a sinewave to a squarewave, the average power of the squarewave would be twice that of the sinewave. This is because for a sinewave, Vrms = Vpeak * .707 whereas for a squarewave Vrms = Vpeak.

It's perfectly possible to send a heavily clipped signal to a driver and cause no damage as long as the level of power does not exceed the driver's thermal or mechanical limits. It's also perfectly possible to send a heavily clipped signal to a driver and damage the driver, but it was damaged because the level of power exceeded the driver's thermal or mechanical limits and not because the shape of the waveform was non-sinusoidal. Yes, the clipping is what caused the power to increase to a level that caused damage. But it was the average power over time that did the damage, not the shape of the waveform.

clipping does not cause damage on its own. like i said above, there are only two ways to kill a woofer.

some reading

http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm

http://www.bcae1.com/speakrat.htm

So your saying it is absolutely fine to play hard clipped music at full tilt with no worries of destroying your subs?

Clipping is the number one cause of speaker failures and to suggest that clipping can not cause it on it's own is a lie.

Clipping leads to the overheating of the coil at a higher rate than you'll see from sending 2 to 3 times the power cause the coil can make use of the full piston travel of a clean sine wave VS. a clipped signal that prevents the speaker from full travel and leads to overheating and finally a failure of the coil.

I'm no expert on the matter but clipping and distortion are the bane of all audio and we all strive to have as little of it as possible.

Distortion and the shape of the signal aren't what causes damage, it's the fact that a heavily clipped signal contains significantly more average power over time than an unclipped signal. If we were to compare a sinewave to a squarewave, the average power of the squarewave would be twice that of the sinewave. This is because for a sinewave, Vrms = Vpeak * .707 whereas for a squarewave Vrms = Vpeak.

It's perfectly possible to send a heavily clipped signal to a driver and cause no damage as long as the level of power does not exceed the driver's thermal or mechanical limits. It's also perfectly possible to send a heavily clipped signal to a driver and damage the driver, but it was damaged because the level of power exceeded the driver's thermal or mechanical limits and not because the shape of the waveform was non-sinusoidal. Yes, the clipping is what caused the power to increase to a level that caused damage. But it was the average power over time that did the damage, not the shape of the waveform.

I've heard the same things about those 'clip' lights

if you really want to try new subs the OAs get my vote, or just get a recone. Diamond D3s would work in that price/power range

Alright guys I think I am going to wait for the FCONs to be released and will go that route. I love my Dcon's and will definitely buy more SSA subs in the future. So please SSA hurry up and get those FCON's in production!!!

The build house is at full tilt, we hope to get a number of Fcon's built up shortly.

I would try some sa sundowns