Posted August 22, 201213 yr Apparently our first three posts are supposed to be here, so I want to jump right in, haha. Don't judge, but I want to wall two fifteens in my 2001 Jetta. I have very minimal experience sadly, and don't care about ruining the car too much. I'll be powering the two DAD BD15s with an arc KS2500.1I know I'm leaving out some information that's needed or whatever, so ask away. (:
August 22, 201213 yr just start it, there is no one way to start a wall its a build as you go process.
August 22, 201213 yr could start by framing, build kind of a frame around where the box is going to be and work on sealing off any way air can get from the front to the backim working on a wall right now myself
August 22, 201213 yr It depends on weather you can build the box then slide it into place followed by paneling it off from the back part of the car.Or if the wall must be built in the car.
August 22, 201213 yr If you're willing to do the extra work, lay down a frame out of 2x4's that outlines how you want your wall to be. That will make it much easier for you to piece everything together since you're building it in the car itself. Extra work cause you have to lay down the 2x4's first, but it should make your life a lot easier.
August 22, 201213 yr Author That doesn't sound like too much extra work at all, I just measured out the space I have to play with, and it looks like roughly H 35 x H 50 x L 22"
August 23, 201213 yr That doesn't sound like too much extra work at all, I just measured out the space I have to play with, and it looks like roughly H 35 x H 50 x L 22"For some people it's a lot of extra work. Depending on what you're dealing with for dimensions, space, etc. it may be easier just to start screwing pieces straight into place. But if your vehicle has a lot of weird bumps everywhere and things you have to avoid then the 2x4 route may be your best bet. If you have enough space that you don't need to squeeze every inch out then the 2x4s would be a viable option.
August 23, 201213 yr This is what i do-First decide how far forward you want it, that's first!After that, decide on whether you want to leave any paneling including headliner in place or not..The more you REMOVE, the more you can structurally brace it externally and give it more strength.Once you decide this, then first goal is to remove paneling and THEN figure out how you are going to level out the floor.IF you need to weld, weld.IF you need to attach wood to any steel structure in your car, purchase Fasco 110.Use Titebond II on wood in areas where it will NOT run down. If it runs, use Fasco 110 instead.Use screws where needed.Try and use as much external bracing as possible and as little internal bracing as possible.Int volume and tuning is not important right now.The baffle and port should be about the last thing you install before the wall is pretty much done.Get an estimate as to how much space you have to work with.Use the most possible in a sense. Don't try and get 20cuft for 2 15s, for example unless you have very specific goals...
August 23, 201213 yr This is what i do-First decide how far forward you want it, that's first!After that, decide on whether you want to leave any paneling including headliner in place or not..The more you REMOVE, the more you can structurally brace it externally and give it more strength.Once you decide this, then first goal is to remove paneling and THEN figure out how you are going to level out the floor.IF you need to weld, weld.IF you need to attach wood to any steel structure in your car, purchase Fasco 110.Use Titebond II on wood in areas where it will NOT run down.If it runs, use Fasco 110 instead.Use screws where needed.Try and use as much external bracing as possible and as little internal bracing as possible.Int volume and tuning is not important right now.The baffle and port should be about the last thing you install before the wall is pretty much done.Get an estimate as to how much space you have to work with.Use the most possible in a sense. Don't try and get 20cuft for 2 15s, for example unless you have very specific goals...Good advice here. x2 on the external bracing, try and make the shell of the wall as strong as possible. The last thing you want is any part of your wall flexing
August 23, 201213 yr Author This is what i do-First decide how far forward you want it, that's first!After that, decide on whether you want to leave any paneling including headliner in place or not..The more you REMOVE, the more you can structurally brace it externally and give it more strength.Once you decide this, then first goal is to remove paneling and THEN figure out how you are going to level out the floor.IF you need to weld, weld.IF you need to attach wood to any steel structure in your car, purchase Fasco 110.Use Titebond II on wood in areas where it will NOT run down.If it runs, use Fasco 110 instead.Use screws where needed.Try and use as much external bracing as possible and as little internal bracing as possible.Int volume and tuning is not important right now.The baffle and port should be about the last thing you install before the wall is pretty much done.Get an estimate as to how much space you have to work with.Use the most possible in a sense. Don't try and get 20cuft for 2 15s, for example unless you have very specific goals...This is the kind of advice I was looking for, perfect man.A question about how forward it should be though, the head installer at the shop I work for was giving me crap about how the wavelengths won't mature if the wall is right behind the seat.Any opinions on this?
September 5, 201213 yr god luck with your wall ; and post pics here !I don't want to wall my car, but it looks cool ! With a wall everybody see your subs, and know you have a big install !!! I don't want that.
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.