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It will. My dad had one for a bed liner mat in his truck for years. Took him about 3 days for it to go away,

J

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Perhaps you need a new alternator?

 

What car?

Alt is working fine.  The three others worked fine too.  All are charging without issue.  I have got to have a bad connection or breal somewhere, but I can't find it. 

 

'03 Town Car, 4G alt.

 

 

I didn't say it wasn't working.

 

Some Fords use PCM controlled alternators. Both the PCM based and traditionally excited alternator have regulators similar in appearance, but they do not function similarly.

 

 

1. At the alternator, disconnect the wire harness from the 3 terminal voltage regulator connector. On the regulator voltage terminals, check the resistance between terminal 3 (the terminal the Yellow/White (YE/WH) wire goes to) and terminal 2 (the terminal the Light Green/Red (LG/RD) wire goes to). The resistance will typically be between 750-1050 ohms (although in some cases it will be even higher, up to 4000 ohms). If the resistance between the terminals shows open circuit, replace the alternator with the correct part and recheck operation.

2. If the alternator/voltage regulator are the correct parts, leave the regulator voltage disconnected. Also access and disconnect the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector. Check the Light Green/Red (LG/RD) wire from the alternator to pin 45 of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector and the Yellow/Light Green (YE/LG) wire from the alternator to pin 7 of the PCM for high resistance, open circuit, or short to ground. Repair either wire as needed and recheck operation.

3. If the wires check good from the alternator to the PCM, reconnect the alternator and PCM. Start the engine and check the YE/WH wire at the voltage regulator connector for full battery voltage from fuse #13 15A in the engine compartment fuse box. Repair the circuit if the voltage is low and recheck operation.

Perhaps you need a new alternator?

What car?

Alt is working fine. The three others worked fine too. All are charging without issue. I have got to have a bad connection or breal somewhere, but I can't find it.

'03 Town Car, 4G alt.

I didn't say it wasn't working.

Some Fords use PCM controlled alternators. Both the PCM based and traditionally excited alternator have regulators similar in appearance, but they do not function similarly.

1. At the alternator, disconnect the wire harness from the 3 terminal voltage regulator connector. On the regulator voltage terminals, check the resistance between terminal 3 (the terminal the Yellow/White (YE/WH) wire goes to) and terminal 2 (the terminal the Light Green/Red (LG/RD) wire goes to). The resistance will typically be between 750-1050 ohms (although in some cases it will be even higher, up to 4000 ohms). If the resistance between the terminals shows open circuit, replace the alternator with the correct part and recheck operation.

2. If the alternator/voltage regulator are the correct parts, leave the regulator voltage disconnected. Also access and disconnect the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector. Check the Light Green/Red (LG/RD) wire from the alternator to pin 45 of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector and the Yellow/Light Green (YE/LG) wire from the alternator to pin 7 of the PCM for high resistance, open circuit, or short to ground. Repair either wire as needed and recheck operation.

3. If the wires check good from the alternator to the PCM, reconnect the alternator and PCM. Start the engine and check the YE/WH wire at the voltage regulator connector for full battery voltage from fuse #13 15A in the engine compartment fuse box. Repair the circuit if the voltage is low and recheck operation.

Thank you. #3 is my issue. It's reading 4V.

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Need more cone in the door!!!

Speaking of. Has anyone seen a socket extension that you can grab with a wrench?

Said bolt was in a spot that I couldn't get a box end, an offset box end, or a socket wrench on. Socket fit fine. If I could have a little 1/2" square rod that was 1.5" tall I would have had it out in seconds.

Vise grips on an extension will work too...  

 

That being said, I guess I'm not seeing why an extension and a regular ratchet wouldn't work if you could get a wrench in there, a ratchet should fit unless I'm misunderstanding it.  

Vise grips on an extension will work too...  

 

That being said, I guess I'm not seeing why an extension and a regular ratchet wouldn't work if you could get a wrench in there, a ratchet should fit unless I'm misunderstanding it.

If I had a 1/4" breaker bar it would have fit. Constrained based on the diameter of the ratcheting portion of the head. I may not be as mechanical as you, R1, or Seth but I am not a retard. I tried every combination of everything I could.

If I had a double offset box end it would work. Mine are offset about 1" or so, need 2" to clear the sheet metal around the motor.

There are other times where something like this would have been useful. Definitely a worthy buy for the future IMO.

Those are proto tools. You can buy them at Grainger.

 

 

Do want new keyboard.

Want backlit.

Probably mechanical.

Teo aren't you a bit of a keyboard junkie????

I think this is the second time you assume I know about that subject, lol.

First time was about a mouse I think.

I too need a new setup, both keyboard and mouse. Backlit keyboard for sure, I live in a dark dungeon.

Totally thought it was a keyboard.

I picked up a ducky with cherry MX reds. Backlit.

 

Awesome, let me know in a few weeks how you like it.

I've been rocking low profile keyed one for years, I am used to it, so I'll try to find one again.

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