Got a 2009 Pontiac G6, came with 15% on all windows but the front windshield. Black Dubs rims.

 

Audio Wise, right now; Later will be cosmetic stuff, like HID headlights and 5% tint on all windows

 

As for the build: SQ/"SQL"/SPL.....to be honest...I don't know. I just want loud and ground pounding.

 

 

 

Here's the upcoming stuff going/being done in this ride:

 

• H/O Alternator built by Micheal Singer (Being built)
  

• All stock speaker wiring torn out and Knukonceptz 16 gauge installed
  

• AudioTechnix 12 gauge for the subwoofers
  

• AudioTechnix 1/0 gauge powerwire
  

• Kno Knoise Resonance Control Bulk Pack 52.5sq ft
  

• (2) Sundown Audio NEO Pro 8" midbass *One per door*
  

• (2) Sundown Audio 6.5cs w/tweeters *One per door*
  

• (2) Alpine Type R 6x9s in the rearfill
  

• (2) Sundown Audio SA-12 D2s wired to .5ohms
  

• Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D
  

• Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 
  

• Sundown Audio SAX-125.2
  

• XS Power S1200 *Under hood battery*
  

• (2) XS XP750 batteries *Will upgrade later*
  

• Rockford 3.Sixty.3 Signal Processor
  

• Box Design by RAM Designs, built by me
  

• Big 3 Upgrade
  

• Box ported- Sealed off, facing inwards in the cabin.
  

• Fiberglass front panels 
  

• Doors/Trunk/Floor deadened out
  

 

 

Front stage is going active, the 6.5s will have their own separate channels as well as the tweeters.

The 125.2 or another 100.4 is for the 8" midbass.

 

Things I may do later on:

 

Any suggestions/ideas would be gladly appreciated...as you can tell, I'm trying to stick with Sundown Audio...it's my OCD to match stuff.

 

Build will start mid-November. Will start posting as soon as I get started

Edited November 4, 201311 yr by Carshateme

Not knocking sundown but you may get better results with other speakers. Sounds like a decent size build. My sister has the same car and wants a system. Take lots of pics and do a build log!

Never understood why people want to run a half ohm load for a daily.

Never understood why people want to run a half ohm load for a daily.

I'm stuck with either .5 ohms or 2 ohms, until I get a recone kit for them. I'd rather run them at 1ohms than .5ohms. Kills the amp badly. 

No rear fill is needed, if you already have the speakers then sell them for more pocket change for the build. This will allow more air flow from the trunk unless you plan on forward firing and sealing the trunk off. Even if so the rears won't be heard over the bass anyway.

Why components and Neo-pros, I would say do one or the other. If you do Neo-pros find some nice tweeters or get some under dash horns to mate with them. Just my .02

Edited November 5, 201311 yr by jay-cee

Got some nice tweeters. And I'm sealing off the trunk and placing subs forward.

Hey there!  I too have a Pontiac G6 I'm working on.  I have an 08 coupe, so I'm not sure if the trunks are identical, but I would think they are close.   I made a model box, and the max dimensions that would fit through opening are 26x35x14.  This was with the spare tire mat/carpet out.  I will probably make my box only 25x35x13.5 to be sure removal is easy.

 

The headliner and rear deck are terrible rattle traps in this car, which makes subs forward is a great idea Imo.  

No rear fill is needed, if you already have the speakers then sell them for more pocket change for the build. This will allow more air flow from the trunk unless you plan on forward firing and sealing the trunk off. Even if so the rears won't be heard over the bass anyway.

Why components and Neo-pros, I would say do one or the other. If you do Neo-pros find some nice tweeters or get some under dash horns to mate with them. Just my .02

agree 100 %

Get a bigger bass amp, and run it at 2 Ohms  : you'll have more power later when you change subs or recone them to D1 each.

 

You have a nice car, sir !

 

No rear fill is needed, if you already have the speakers then sell them for more pocket change for the build. This will allow more air flow from the trunk unless you plan on forward firing and sealing the trunk off. Even if so the rears won't be heard over the bass anyway.

Why components and Neo-pros, I would say do one or the other. If you do Neo-pros find some nice tweeters or get some under dash horns to mate with them. Just my .02

agree 100 %

Get a bigger bass amp, and run it at 2 Ohms  : you'll have more power later when you change subs or recone them to D1 each.

 

You have a nice car, sir !

 

Thank you

Edited November 6, 201311 yr by Aaron Clinton

Huh? Take it as you didn't say something nice and a moderator edited your post? lol

Watching

Got started on my passenger door, due to the fact that the speaker was blown and was causing problems with the system..like random fades in and out when turning and such... So this 6.5 in the door is temporary, til I get started on the 8". I can't keep the 6.5s in them anyways...window hits the end of the speaker without no mdf rings. Got some deadener on it.

 

 

Installed Alpine 6x9s type Rs in the rear fill...for shits and giggles. Put some deadener back there as well...not finished, but..going to see if I need anymore due to the fact that nothing rattles back there.

 

Solder job..not the greatest...but it's something that works.

 

Oh yeah. Here's a sneak peak of what the box will look like:

 

I agree with the others, if you're wanting to do a real 3 way active setup there's a better way to go about it.  If it were me I would run the subs at 2 ohms until you were able to make the changes necessary to run them at 1 ohm or a larger amp to run them with more power at 2 ohms.  I don't think the small gains you would get from running it at .5 ohm would outweigh the stress on the amp and other possible issues that could arise.  Of course that's me, I'd rather play it safe than be sorry I had a problem.  I'm not sure what kind of experience you have with sound deadening but the application of the KnoKnoise CLD is a bit of a waste.  CLD is used to stop panel resonances and if it's not attached to anything like when covering a hole it's not doing anything and it's too damn expensive to do that with.  It only takes about 25% coverage of CLD to be effective to stop resonances.  To block noise and sound from coming through the door or any body panel some CCF and MLV are much more effective.  Hell just the CCF made a tremendous difference in my Jimmy but the MLV is the real product to be used to block noise.  

 

I hope you don't think I was being overly critical, I like the ambition behind the build and I'm looking forward to seeing how it all pans out.  I think you've got a great foundation in the plans you have and it should turn out to be pretty decent overall.

Oh, I don't take offense to any of that. I appreciate it. I know about the road noise and stuff but at the moment all I'm trying to do is eliminate any possible rattling. It proved effective in my challenger..so I'm doing the same to my g6. Now down the road when I got like $400 on the side. Ill put some of that material you mentioned in your post in my vehicle. But for now I'm worried about getting everything rattle proof

Hey there! I too have a Pontiac G6 I'm working on. I have an 08 coupe, so I'm not sure if the trunks are identical, but I would think they are close. I made a model box, and the max dimensions that would fit through opening are 26x35x14. This was with the spare tire mat/carpet out. I will probably make my box only 25x35x13.5 to be sure removal is easy.

The headliner and rear deck are terrible rattle traps in this car, which makes subs forward is a great idea Imo.

Wish I would've saw this earlier....my dimensions are 39.5x 14.5 x 21

I would strongly recommend you at least fab up a cardboard box before you spill out $$ for one that doesn't fit.  No way I see 39" wide fitting.  Roughly 37" is my max trunk opening width, which does not take into account the narrowing in the bottom corners. 14" was the highest my trunk would allow for the box to slide all the way forward.

 

Please measure yours with a tape and let me know what you find.

This is also where I'm in agreement with the majority of cardiologists and the nutri

My trunk sucks just as well.

I would strongly recommend you at least fab up a cardboard box before you spill out $$ for one that doesn't fit.  No way I see 39" wide fitting.  Roughly 37" is my max trunk opening width, which does not take into account the narrowing in the bottom corners. 14" was the highest my trunk would allow for the box to slide all the way forward.

 

Please measure yours with a tape and let me know what you find.

 

I found that if I remove the back seats and the black trimming around the back seat that I will have just enough room to slide it in there with no problem. I just have to build it and put it through the back door and then slide it in. If not.. I have metal bending tools that I'll use to get it in. It was the same problem I had with my 95' buick. I just took an inch off of each side of the inner trunk and pushed it in the back. Worked like a charm, plus it's extra snug in the back. I will double check everything with the measuring tape when I install my alternator today and make sure, I did it all by eye from the back of the trunk. From what I see, if you remove the black trim, you gain an extra 2-3" of width. I also know about that dip that you are talking about. I put that in my equation when I measured. My box is going to be at the edge right before it dips down, else the box would've been 15" h instead of 14.5". But I shall give you accurate data once I'm done. 

Umm huh. Card board is like a buck 50 at Home Depot. Build you a card board box first. Sometimes ur eyeballs are bigger than your measuring tape. Use my learning from experience to your advantage.

It'll fit. Measured it all out. Box will have a clearance of 1/4" on each side and a clearance of 1/2" on top. I'll have to push my front seats forward, possible remove on seat. 

Here's some pictures..I'm a dumbass and didn't take a before picture of the alternator Sorry

 

Alternator is 310 Max / 275A after heat and 190+idle.

 

Ran into a small problem trying to install it...Nothing washers didn't fix.

 

 

Installed and almost wired up.

 

 

Big 3 upgrade:

 

 

(That yellow wire is running to the ignition fuse)

Ran into a problem at first. Scared me for a minute. The stock wires did not want to work with the alternator..I was running off my battery for a few minutes...voltage dropped down to 11.7..so I messaged Mike. He got back at me in the matter of minutes to help me out and told me to wire it to my ignition fuse. So I did. Now I'm happily sitting at 14.9volts. Thank you Mike Singer!

I would strongly recommend you at least fab up a cardboard box before you spill out $$ for one that doesn't fit.  No way I see 39" wide fitting.  Roughly 37" is my max trunk opening width, which does not take into account the narrowing in the bottom corners. 14" was the highest my trunk would allow for the box to slide all the way forward.

 

Please measure yours with a tape and let me know what you find.

 

I found that if I remove the back seats and the black trimming around the back seat that I will have just enough room to slide it in there with no problem. I just have to build it and put it through the back door and then slide it in. If not.. I have metal bending tools that I'll use to get it in. It was the same problem I had with my 95' buick. I just took an inch off of each side of the inner trunk and pushed it in the back. Worked like a charm, plus it's extra snug in the back. I will double check everything with the measuring tape when I install my alternator today and make sure, I did it all by eye from the back of the trunk. From what I see, if you remove the black trim, you gain an extra 2-3" of width. I also know about that dip that you are talking about. I put that in my equation when I measured. My box is going to be at the edge right before it dips down, else the box would've been 15" h instead of 14.5". But I shall give you accurate data once I'm done. 

Ok Great!  Glad it fits    I didnt think the opening from the passenger bay was that big.  I'll look at mine tom.