Well my car (2004 Scion xB) is finally getting paid off next week so it's time to prepare for the upgrades. I just ordered my 12" Ethos and am planning on most likely a SQ2200D to power it. To begin with the front stage will be run off a Hifonics X14 X1200.4. The X14 is supposedly rated at 150x4 @4 and 300x4 @2. So total wattage should be around 3k RMS.

 I'm getting a 220 amp ho alt from Js Ultimate alts. I know I'm going to need a battery upgrade. Will I need an extra battery for the rear? My guess is yes, so I need to know what size and what to do as far as fusing/isolating/regulating the batteries and amps. I have some 1/0 cable for big 3 upgrade and will probably need to pick up more for the amp run. There will be a run of 1/0 for the SQ and a run of 4 ga for the X14.

 Thanks in advance and if there's someone who has a build log with a familiar setup could you point me in the right direction?

I would replace the battery under the hood with the biggest that could fit first along with the alternator, then monitor voltage to see if a battery in the rear is needed.

Depending on your listening habits you may get by without buying two batteries. Is that the biggest alt you can find for your vehicle?

Iirc up front it's pretty space limited, so a cheaper group 31 like a used deka intimidator or similar would be a great suppliment for the rear for pretty cheap x but as jaycee said it depends on your listening habits.

While the car is apart put deadener on each rear quarter panel. They rattle and flex like a tin can.

I would replace the battery under the hood with the biggest that could fit first along with the alternator, then monitor voltage to see if a battery in the rear is needed.

Depending on your listening habits you may get by without buying two batteries. Is that the biggest alt you can find for your vehicle?

So is there any "rule of thumb" as to what can be used? Or just measure and go as big as possible? And as for the alt...I could get a larger one elsewhere for twice the price. In my research so far people seem to be able to get away with a 200 amp on that power without any issues (with big 3 and big battery or 2).

While the car is apart put deadener on each rear quarter panel. They rattle and flex like a tin can.

The company I work for makes spray on sound dampening material for use in the wheel wells and floor by car manufacturers. Would that benefit me in any other areas? But yes, the whole car is getting treatment. I never did any with my current setup thinking 300 watts wouldn't need it. Man was I wrong. The back doors ripple like crazy and have vibrated the handles loose already.

Here are links to a couple of the sound deadening products we make. Would either of these benefit me in any areas? I can get my hands on this pretty easily.

 

http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/automotive-repair-adhesives/product.xml/330

 

http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/automotive-repair-adhesives/product.xml/1897

 

I would replace the battery under the hood with the biggest that could fit first along with the alternator, then monitor voltage to see if a battery in the rear is needed.

Depending on your listening habits you may get by without buying two batteries. Is that the biggest alt you can find for your vehicle?

So is there any "rule of thumb" as to what can be used? Or just measure and go as big as possible? And as for the alt...I could get a larger one elsewhere for twice the price. In my research so far people seem to be able to get away with a 200 amp on that power without any issues (with big 3 and big battery or 2).

 

200 amp x 12 volt = 2400 watts. 200 amp x 14 volts = 2800 watts. Granted the alt doesn't make that at idle. The battery is for reserve to fill in at peak moments.

Here are links to a couple of the sound deadening products we make. Would either of these benefit me in any areas? I can get my hands on this pretty easily.

 

http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/automotive-repair-adhesives/product.xml/330

 

http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/automotive-repair-adhesives/product.xml/1897

I used this product in my car. Worked great to fill body voids to block road noise. Good for bracing too, IF in the right application.

Iirc up front it's pretty space limited, so a cheaper group 31 like a used deka intimidator or similar would be a great suppliment for the rear for pretty cheap x but as jaycee said it depends on your listening habits.

 Yes...space is limited everywhere in this thing. From my measurements it looks like the biggest battery that will fit will have to fall within 8"wx10"lx10"d. What would you suggest for that?

Go look at batteries and see what will fit, Sears has Diehard Platinum batteries for good pricing. Check them out

 

 

I would replace the battery under the hood with the biggest that could fit first along with the alternator, then monitor voltage to see if a battery in the rear is needed.

Depending on your listening habits you may get by without buying two batteries. Is that the biggest alt you can find for your vehicle?

So is there any "rule of thumb" as to what can be used? Or just measure and go as big as possible? And as for the alt...I could get a larger one elsewhere for twice the price. In my research so far people seem to be able to get away with a 200 amp on that power without any issues (with big 3 and big battery or 2).

 

200 amp x 12 volt = 2400 watts. 200 amp x 14 volts = 2800 watts. Granted the alt doesn't make that at idle. The battery is for reserve to fill in at peak moments.

 

 

 I'm sure I won't be running full tilt on this thing for the most part. It should be able to handle my needs. If not....lesson learned and go bigger.

 

Here are links to a couple of the sound deadening products we make. Would either of these benefit me in any areas? I can get my hands on this pretty easily.

 

http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/automotive-repair-adhesives/product.xml/330

 

http://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/automotive-repair-adhesives/product.xml/1897

I used this product in my car. Worked great to fill body voids to block road noise. Good for bracing too, IF in the right application.

 

Good to know. Maybe I can get the guys to turn this into a project for vehicle SPL purposes....worth a shot! LOL

Edited September 7, 201411 yr by EddieC

Go look at batteries and see what will fit, Sears has Diehard Platinum batteries for good pricing. Check them out

 

 So any Diehard Platinum that will fit would be ideal?

Edited September 7, 201411 yr by EddieC

You will want a sealed battery if mounted inside the vehicle. Lead batteries give off toxic AND flammable fumes. 

Here is the Group 31 version battery just to show you an example of which line-up im referring to:

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-marine-battery-group-size-31m-price/p-02850131000P

You will want a sealed battery if mounted inside the vehicle. Lead batteries give off toxic AND flammable fumes. 

 I understand that, but as for under the hood I'm looking at the Sears Diehard Platinum that was suggested and the dimensions of the Group 35 seem to be a perfect fit. Should I look for an AGM as well or wait to see how it handles the power on the Group 35?

Here is the Group 31 version battery just to show you an example of which line-up im referring to:

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-marine-battery-group-size-31m-price/p-02850131000P

 Ok I'm lost I was looking at the under hood Platinums for cars. Do I need a marine battery under the hood?

Right now I was looking at jay-cee's first suggestion of the bigger alt and getting the biggest battery that would fit under the hood. That's where I was at with the Group 35 Platinum car battery. Am I at the right starting point???

Your golden. 

Your golden. 

 Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33

 

As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp?

 

Your golden. 

 Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33

 

As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp?

 

typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.

Your golden.

Awesome... looks like they run $207 so that'll be next on the list.

http://www.sears.com/diehard-platinum-automotive-battery-group-size-35-price/p-02851035000P?prdNo=33

As for the fusing from the alt to the battery, 300amp?

typically I suggest not to fuse it, a high output alternator can easily blow fuses.

Ok...Group 35 Platinum up front. Ho alt. 1/0 big 3 with no fusing. See where voltage rests. I'll do some more research on where to go from there. Run to rear battery? Distribution blocks? These battery isolators I've read about? Sucks having limited knowledge and no friends who know more than I can figure out on my own and by asking questions from people who know what they're doing. I'm learning all I can through my cell phone which sucks, but it'll be worth it in the end when it's over. Thanks for all the help guys... I'm learning a lot.

Then your drawing more current than you fused for.

With that being said I didnt fuse my alt either!

Edited September 7, 201411 yr by garychurch84

Then your drawing more current than you fused for.

With that being said I didnt fuse my alt either!

Please explain... not ashamed to admit my knowledge is limited when it comes to more than a simple low power install. This is all new to me and I wanna do it right. And by myself as much as possible.

Fuseing is to protect the wire etc,however your alt could go bad bad and have a voltage spike...which could send who knows how much voltage through your electrical system,frying pcms,relays,headligjys etc.