• Car: 2013 VW Golf 4door
• Headunit: KENWOOD DDX471HD 2DIN 6.1" TOUCHSCREEN
• Planned sub stage: 2x10" Fi SSD's sealed, ~0.4cubes each, powered by a Cadence ZRS C1 mono (2250rms @ 1ohm)

I did my previous car's stereo install which was a single DIN head unit(Alpine IDA-X100), same amplifier(reusing it), and a 15" Fi BTL in a ported box. But with that install, I still only had the stock front speakers. Towards the end, I think even both tweeters died.

 

My previous build was geared towards maximum volume with a high schooler's budget, now that I'm older and my tastes have changed, I plan to build more towards quality but not crazy like I've seen some people take it.

 

I figure that I should upgrade the front speakers&tweeters, but I'm not sure what I want to upgrade them to. Someone had recommended to me PRECISION POWER PPI PC2.65C 6-1/2" 2-WAY COMPONENT with a Precision Power BA1000.4 1000 Watts 4-Channel Class AB Full Range Amplifier to power them.

 

I'm open to many other suggestions. I dont want to modify the door panels at all or really anything in the car like that.

 

I've never done an install that involved that involved anything besides the subwoofer/amp. What is involved in an install like that?

1. Where are the speaker wires currently run, from the factory head unit to the factory speakers?
2. If I power aftermarket speakers with an aftermarket amplifier, where do I put the amp?
3. What is the crossover?
4. Should I do something for the rear speakers also?
5. How necessary is deadening the doors?

Thanks a lot for the help!

 

Edit: It looks the stock alternator with this car is ~140A. I'm not sure what the car draws while idling.

Edited October 21, 201410 yr by sandsnip3r

1 - depends on the car

2- wherever it fits, normally the trunk

3- It "crosses over" the audio such that high frequencies go to a tweeter and lower ones go to the midrange.  Or less specifically it "passes" appropriate sounds to appropriate drivers.

4-Never, rear speakers are ultimately a HUGE waste of money

5- Deadening is a critical part of an install.  The install is WAY more important than the equipment.  ie, you should budget for install even if it means greatly reducing budget for the rest.

1. In every car that I've ever opened up, yes.  If you have a factory active set-up , then from the amp.

2. Whereever it fits.

3. M5 got it.

4. No

5.  I've yet to deaden my car, and have put front stages in multiple cars with no deadening.  All of them had improved sound/were louder, but the heavier doors sounded better, so your sound will only be further improved with sound deadening.

 

...ya may be needing a second battery.  I have a less efficient Candence amp (I'd imagine) and a larger stock alt and needed a second battery.

Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.

With the crossover, can I change the frequencies?

wannabang, I ran this amp in my old car which had a 90A alternator and only a big 3 upgrade and the worst I ever saw was dimming headlights

Do you guys have any other suggestions for a nice pair of components and amp?

Passive components (like the ones you buy in a store) you cannot change the frequencies.  It is possible however to use an Active Processor (electronic crossover) before the amplifier and then change anything you like.  This is very listening and skill intensive though so generally speaking not recommended as a first foray into car audio.  The gains through proper deadening and installation are by far the biggest bang for the buck.  Start there and worry a bit less about what comps you use.

 

No matter the budget, it is always better to include the proper deadening and installation.  I'd MUCH rather have a set of $40 mids & tweeters installed right than a $250 set installed wrong (ie just screwed into the stock locations).  Ought to show you how to budget...

Ok, thanks for the help, I'll do a lot more research and make sure to go for a high quality install.

 

Also, I have a question about subwoofer wiring.

 

Here is the manual for my amplifier: http://cadencesound.com/content/ZRS-C1.pdf

 

There is a left and right set of terminals, how should i wire the pair of subwoofers to match that?

 

Should I wire a pair of 2ohm DVC's down to 1ohm and then run that into one of the pairs (either left or right)?

Or should I wire each sub to a 2ohm load with one into the left and one into the right so that the final load is 1ohm?

Does it matter?

If your looking for max power then wire the subs together for a 1 ohm impedance. Then wire to the left negative and right positive on the amp only.

If your looking for max power then wire the subs together for a 1 ohm impedance. Then wire to the left negative and right positive on the amp only.

 

Ok, thanks, you're the man

There are some sub forums here, on SSA, about deadening materials.

I'm still studying what to buy for my doors ;-)  My budget is not ready.

I loved my Cadence ia9 and ia4..Havent tried the ZRS C1 I'm sure it's a beast..Speaking of I wonder where JasonPaul is?

If your looking for max power then wire the subs together for a 1 ohm impedance. Then wire to the left negative and right positive on the amp only.

it's a mono (1 channel) amp, doesn't matter which + or - terminal you connect to. If you wire both subs to 2 ohm and connect one sub to left and one sub to right the amp will see a 1 ohm load. Also if you wire all 4 coils down to a 1 ohm load and connect the + to either + on the amp and the - to either - on the amp, the amp will see a 1 ohm load.

 

Also wouldn't matter if you connected one sub to L+ & R- and the other sub to R+ & L-. there is only one channel, just happens to have two connection points for + and two for  -