so i have 00 s10 ext cab xtreme and got two 10" sq hds200 d2 with ported box and mtx 1501d amp but maybe since its been a week with these subs not broke in but still yet I dont think this will be enough bass for me, So im thinking of redoing everything maybe do 2-15" hdc3 with sq 4500 amplifier with custom built box. When I do the box has anyone had experience with the best ported box design? round ports,slot and also subs up or face foward and port location. Im just want down right beat me up bass and when I turn it up I know that it will impress others for sure.

A friend of mine had a truck like that, and we found his subs sounded best, and hit the hardest, pointed straight up, with the port firing to the rear with the box pushed up against the back of the seats, but it could be totally different for your box, subs, and vehicle.  But you want be disappointed with that set up in that truck. Those soundqubed HDC15's get nasty loud. My nephew has one of the 4" inch coil subs and it hits like crazy but not the best sounding sub but plenty of spl if that's what your after. And I think SSA sells the exact boxes for those subs unless you want a custom box and not a prefab.

Is the enclosure you have designed and built for your subs?

What all do you have in this system? Front stage? Wire type size? Head unit? Stock alt? Battery? Maybe if we had more info we could figure out why it isn't loud enough. 

11 hours ago, frogcase2002 said:

Is the enclosure you have designed and built for your subs?

This^^^

Deck pioneer 7200hd, front stage 4x6 kicker off headunit, doors with tweets mounted in door panels facing best axis I could do with kenwood kfc709 with kenwood kac5206 amp, using 2gauge welding cable to amp and is wired to 165amp alternator ad244 with big three upgrade with welding cable, rca cables belva? cheap rca so may need to upgrade them. Subwoofer box is 3.14cub ft gross with 2" wide x 13" deep with subs firing up and port up. Its not much of a system 

have not got a extra battery , could i use one currently?  im going to need alot of work for louder system

 

 is it a prefab enclosure?

no i built it has double 3/4 baffle, did have 2-10 re audio sex d2 and those pounded for what they are. not sure whats happen its like certain songs it hits lows and then other songs the beats sound distorted and so far ive got subs too loosen up too

hey folks i appreciate everyone lookin and askin questions maybe get this figured out. now does anyone use ipod or cellphone with music files to the aux input and if so is there a good way to check distortion there if its dirty input.. if using the usb songs dont sound as good and seems like bass is weaker with usb

Aux cables are one of the worst for loosing sq. if you have the option a USB is slightly better. But a good CD, is your best audio source, if you have some just to check the difference between it, and the aux cable. Crutchfield actually has some graphs, and figures, for the differences between sources, and cables. Pretty good read.

1 hour ago, Billy Jack said:

Aux cables are one of the worst for loosing sq. if you have the option a USB is slightly better. But a good CD, is your best audio source, if you have some just to check the difference between it, and the aux cable. Crutchfield actually has some graphs, and figures, for the differences between sources, and cables. Pretty good read.

You need to think instead of read a regurgitate.

Aux inputs are just fine when implemented right.  USB by default should be identical to a CD.  Both carry exactly the same digital information assuming you have any idea how to rip a CD.  

The home stereo analogy is apt here.  Normally your CD player is separate from your pre-amplifier.  The pre-amplifier has an "aux" in (usually labelled CD or the like) that you plug it into.  Sounds terrible.  Of course the USB or playing a CD direct would be analogous to using the digital transport into the pre-amp.  So then the real question becomes where is the better d/a converter,  in the pre-amp or in the cd player itself.   The exact same can be said of car audio.

Crutchfield is useful for looking up what is stock and what electrical adapter to buy, but for nothing else.  That ship sailed 15 years ago.

do you think using dd-1 meter is best bang for buck device? I see the oscope nano handhelds but idk.I had one and went bad so new one will be here monday, Im also considering a second battery if so what size should i go with considering little power that i have. I did buy brand new basshead or down4sound rca cables that i think will be nice considering rca grounds tighten down so no coming off. I have just 2gauge welding wire now and my ground on amp is not off frame just off body inside. should i do frame or body so for sure that its good strong ground. thanks guys ill take dd-1 and try to set everything i use usb,aux and of course cd with dd-1

The dd-1 is 100% useless.  Piece of marketing crap.  Doesn't do anything helpful.

 

Even if the dd1 detected distortion good , it does it at one frequency . Music is thousands of frequencies and different music you get and or download are different so there really is not a point in using the dd1 for anything . . . 

Your ears, eyes and nose are better for setting up an amp than any device

thanks for being honest guys, ill mess with the subs ive got little bit until i get my new setup together and ready to build. 

15 hours ago, ///M5 said:

You need to think instead of read a regurgitate.

Aux inputs are just fine when implemented right.  USB by default should be identical to a CD.  Both carry exactly the same digital information assuming you have any idea how to rip a CD.  

The home stereo analogy is apt here.  Normally your CD player is separate from your pre-amplifier.  The pre-amplifier has an "aux" in (usually labelled CD or the like) that you plug it into.  Sounds terrible.  Of course the USB or playing a CD direct would be analogous to using the digital transport into the pre-amp.  So then the real question becomes where is the better d/a converter,  in the pre-amp or in the cd player itself.   The exact same can be said of car audio.

Crutchfield is useful for looking up what is stock and what electrical adapter to buy, but for nothing else.  That ship sailed 15 years ago.

It was sonic electronics not crutchfield, my bad it's been a while since I read it, and yea hdmi was the way to go. I just remember the tested for distortion and the aux cable was the worst.

As long as you have good ground connections at your source unit and your amplifier(s), you should have no problems with RCA cables. 

Be carefull with the tight rca's as they cause problems with people ripping out rca jacks or messing them up.

Just one other clarification.  Wire is generally wire.  Quality connectors, a reasonable size, and shielding are paramount but beyond that you can pretty much use anything.  Really easy to have zero noise with even el cheapo RCA wires.  Pretty sure the ones in my truck right now came free with an Adcom pre-amp I bought 25 years ago.

Ill use the new rca when i get time to put in.. I think im going to find me 2-15"s instead and one or two amps and some other stuff

I take it that the back seat is gone ???

so tested the system out today and with driver door open and meter on passenger window best i did was a 141.5db so i guess for 2-10 hds200 with mtx thunder 1501d not to bad

Not to bad at all

subs on certain songs not good but with a 35hz tone it did well, im surprised from entry subs