Am currently looking at subwoofers to upgrade from my lowly Powerbass S-10D's. Have been running a Lightning Audio 1001.d monoblock @ 1 ohm for the last year, and every time I get it cranking, the amp shuts off after 10-15 minutes, blowing fuses. I am running a 250 amp alternator, and a brand new 1000ca/800cca battery, with 1/0 run back to my distribution block, and a 14" 4ga run to the amp, with the big 3 under the hood. Will be adding a second battery, under the hood, as there is a second battery tray. I really don't want to run much more power than what I already have, as I don't want to get into having to add a dual alternator, or putting another battery in the back. Probably looking at a1200-1500 watt amp, possibly Skar or Audiopipe, just depends on what I can find for a deal.

The Powerbass subs are only rated at 350 watts rms, I'd like to be able to run a clean 600-750 to each. I haven't found much out there for a sub that has a high sensitivity, other than the Dayton's below. Most 10" subs that can handle 500 watts rms or more only have a sensitivity from 83-87db, these Dayton's are supposedly 90.5db. If I remember correctly, it takes double the power to achieve 3db more in output - if that's so, then these Daytons with 600 watts would have the same output as a different sub pushed by 1200 watts at a 87.5db sensitivity, or 2400 watts pushing a sub with 83.5db sensitivity.

I know that Dayton is primarily a home audio company, but these have me intrigued. Specs look decent, and what other content I've found online seems to agree.

If not these, then make another suggestion for a higher-sensitivity 10" sub, that will work in a 1.25-1.3cu ft enclosure (mine is about 2.8 cubes, less sub and port displacement).

 

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-463

All the specs aren't worth reading like that.  All that being said the HO is a great driver.

3 hours ago, ///M5 said:

All the specs aren't worth reading like that.  All that being said the HO is a great driver.

And I've been around the forum for long enough to know that your own tastes are not the "slapping, buzzing, tin can farting" noise that most people with multi-thousand watts and 4 or more subwoofers desire. I've had two fifteens in my truck before, I've been in vehicles with eight twelves, and it's not my cup of tea, either. I want, good, tight, accurate bass that doesn't overwhelm the rest of the system. While I'm not the audiophile that you are, I respect your opinion as your taste is probably the closest to my own.

While I occasionally listen to some Eminem, I don't generally listen to rap. My musical interests are generally modern, hard and alternative rock, ranging from Alter Bridge to Velvet Revolver, Alice In Chains to Powerman 5000, Ronnie James Dio to Def Leppard. I'm 47, and grew up in the Hair Metal era.

I am not a bass head, but it is EASY to get me to get a larger diameter driver.  In the 10" domain those are nice, but if you can fit a larger enclosure there can be a win there too.

15 hours ago, ///M5 said:

I am not a bass head, but it is EASY to get me to get a larger diameter driver.  In the 10" domain those are nice, but if you can fit a larger enclosure there can be a win there too.

I'd love to be able to go larger, but my enclosure is built into the back corner of my Yukon XL - doesn't take up any floor space whatsoever.

Also did a center console, as my middle bench seat was shot. Tore the seat apart, saved the frame so that I would have good, solid mounting points for the console. Have two older Powerbass S-10s (single coil) in a 1.2 cu ft sealed enclosure, planning on running them with an old Kenwood 250w monoblock for midbass, most likely from 60 Hz to about 120Hz. Want to anchor the front imaging, I did this in my old Tahoe, and really liked the way it sounded.

The base, with all my junk underneath. None of that will be in there, will be mounting two of my amps underneath - that's what the cleats are for, to raise the console itself up.

 

Front section of the console, sealed enclosure for the two 10's. Not ported, I have those ports sealed off with the "puck" from the cutout, they make great cupholders, can easily hold a 32 oz bottle of Powerade. The one hole was off by about 1/8th of an inch, but anal retentive mind wouldn't deal with it, so I ovaled both holes, and built out the holes a bit with some thick marine-grade tape. Problem solved.

Two tens, wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load.

Console pushed all the way forward, matching the contour of the dash. You can see how it is elevated off the base (still have all my junk in there during the test fitting, since removed and filling up the storage space).

Center console storage, fits tight with the forward enclosure.

A couple of side trim pieces, don't want everything to be square and boxy. The holes in the bottom enclosure are there for two purposes - 1) allow ventilation for the amps, and 2) putting blue LEDs inside, will get a nice glow radiating out onto the front floor.

And finally, the lid for the storage. It flips open towards the passenger seat, there's enough of a lip where it extends over the curved trim piece so that I don't need to build in any handle or finger pull.

 

I have a roll of the same carpet that I used for the rear enclosure, using that and some darker gray carpet to wrap everything, give it a little bit of contrast.

Wish I had an enclosed garage, I could be working on this while I'm out of work recovering from surgery.

Edited January 10, 20187 yr by BigDaddy13440

I absolutely love that center console man, dope ass hell