I know the routine in making a sealed enclosure but have a few questions before I begin.... This is the first one I am making for my 15" Q and I am getting 3/4 mdf and using 1.5" on the front where the sub is mounted. I was planning on using liquid nails to glue the boards together and then screw them- should I then caulk around the inside after that? Also when doubling up the front baffle, should I just glue and screw two pieces of 3/4 mdf together and then attach to the rest of the box and cut my sub hole in both?

Any other tips, or things I forgot before I start building?

Thanks guys for the help!

was planning on using liquid nails to glue the boards together

Don't do that. Use a good wood glue, like Titebond or Elmer's, instead of Liquid Nails.

whats the downside to liquid nails?

Also does it matter what type of screws? I was going to use drywall screws and then mount the sub with some heavy duty screws.

whats the downside to liquid nails?

Because you'd need to have the box clamped for a month before you could do anything with it Very long curing time...

Coarse thread drywall screws work fine, just make sure you predrill the holes to avoid splitting the wood.

OKay I will use titebond glue instead, and pre-drill. I also was told to use fiberglass resin to coat the inside of the box to make it more secure...is this okay?

As for doubling up the front baffle...what do you think is the best way??

I also was told to use fiberglass resin to coat the inside of the box to make it more secure...is this okay?

Certainly couldn't hurt things.

what do you think is the best way??

Whatever way is easiest for you...as long as the panels are securely glued and held together, and the hole is a snug fit for the woofer, it's not too critical.

Make sure you have the cut list with exact sizes, cuts, and where before you start cutting. Then label as you do. This will really help the build go quick once you start. I like to use a finish nailer to hold panels together, it makes it easier when you're holding things yourself, and makes much smaller holes than pre-drilled countersunk screws.

Also, make your own cuts, don't let lows or home depot cut for you to make it easier with big panels-they always seem to get things off square.

Good luck

Cut the MDF yourself. Lowes fudges cuts. They should be used as a last resort.

Liquid nails worked well for me. I got a caulk gun and a couple tubes. Used it between the Front baffles for a 1.5mdf piece. And I used it for corner caulking. Dried overnight...Not sure what RIckRolled's problem was...?

Resin will stiffen the box...so will bracing. I'd use BOTH.

Liquid nails worked well for me. I got a caulk gun and a couple tubes. Used it between the Front baffles for a 1.5mdf piece. And I used it for corner caulking. Dried overnight...Not sure what Jimj's problem was...?

If you are making a WOOD box, you need to use WOOD glue, its specifically designed to be the best for its intended purpose.

I'm gonna dispell a popular myth for you guys that I have seen twice in this thread alone

Resin , be it polyester or epoxy . Won't add strength to an enclosure by itself. Add some mat and or cloth and you strengthen. Use just resin and you attempt to smooth airflow in the interior of the enclosure, and seal it up as air tight as possible.

Dip a stir stick in resin....let it dry...and then break it.

Then break one that wasn't dipped in resin.

Then tell me again that resin didn't strengthen the wood.

Dip a stir stick in resin....let it dry...and then break it.

Then break one that wasn't dipped in resin.

Then tell me again that resin didn't strengthen the wood.

or put resin on one side of a stick and try that. Id guess it be about the same but who knows. I piss razorblades.

gorrla glue is ur friend, lol

never tried elmers, i guess i'll try that on my next box.

gorrla glue is ur friend

Nope, woodglue and proper construction techniques are.

Dip a stir stick in resin....let it dry...and then break it.

Then break one that wasn't dipped in resin.

Then tell me again that resin didn't strengthen the wood.

Build many enclosures out of 1/4" stir sticks do you ? Hypothetically, If someone was gonna test something like this . They probably might use 2- 12" x24" pieces of 3/4" mdf . Then they might also use 4 cinder blocks , 2 for each piece of mdf . Then they would probably coat one piece completely with resin , then leave the other piece untouched as a control. then span the cinder blocks with the mdf so that only the very edges are supported . Then use a 2" x 4" on it's side as a fulcrum , and add weight with a press on top of said fulcrum, while monitoring with a force gauge, until the mdf fails. I bet if someone did some kind of tests like this , they would come up with some interesting findings . They might even find that the resin soaked piece of mdf actually took a little less force to snap. Probably might even find out that the resin actually stiffened the mdf, removing the flex that it had , making a little more brittle. But this is all hypothetical of course

Hypothetical my ass.

I piss razorblades.

hahaha

well I've used both liquid nails and wood glue, more specifically the heavy duty all purpose liquid nails that will bond anything together, and titebond 2. the liquid nails works pretty good and so does the wood glue. i cant really tell a difference cause i still use a finish nailer to put it all together. as for drying time i don't know, i just let it go overnight. the only thing i can tell is that the liquid nails seems to get harder. as long as you got something making it more airtight your good.

gorrla glue is ur friend, lol

never tried elmers, i guess i'll try that on my next box.

elmers is all ive ever used...its funny how the glue we use in elementary school is the same glue we use today

gorrla glue is ur friend, lol

never tried elmers, i guess i'll try that on my next box.

elmers is all ive ever used...its funny how the glue we use in elementary school is the same glue we use today

same manufacturer, but far from the same glue my brother

used to use Elmer's Woodglue, switched over to Titebond II recently

difference? *shrugs**

used to use Elmer's Woodglue, switched over to Titebond II recently

difference? *shrugs**

Price and name... would be my guess.

used to use Elmer's Woodglue, switched over to Titebond II recently

difference? *shrugs**

Price and name... would be my guess.

Yep about it .