pro-rabbit

Instead of stuffing more batteries back there, an alt would be a far better investment.

Honestly, if you are just wanting it to "work" then I would just use the free design. If that does not meet your requirements then have a designer work out a design for your exact needs.

Their pre-designed enclosures work decently well over all. However, their design can be improved on based on the application and goals.

good thing the box is strong or some one would have a shifter in a not so welcomed area. lol

Thanks Mark!! We have been trying to work with these companies for years with little to no success, so I'm hoping this finally helps all enclosure builders out there with packaging and having the logistic company simply deny the claim for "poorly packaged items".

I would base which port you want on your build skills. If you are able to use the correct tools required and are decent with math then a slot port side firing would be a great option. However, if you find that you are not so good with one or the other a flared round port would be a great choice. There are differences, but if you are not going to be on the meter(SPL) then it is less then likely you will hear much of a difference unless you have port noise in the slot port.

Lots of over kill here lol You could use what ever, it won't make a huge difference. To simply prove a point we used some 16 gauge walmart wire on our demo truck at a show. (rewired it all up sitting in the booth) popped in the termlab and only lost .01 on the meter lol.. Played it the rest of the day like that and no extra heat was generated(on the amp or wires).

That would work rather well, but in all honesty I would utilize a slot port in your application if you have the space. You can adjust port area and volume a bit to help make the enclosure more efficient. This would help with getting more with less in a since. If you are limited on space and/or plan to upgrade power, I would slim the enclosure down a tad.

Thanks everyone for "plugs" lol audioismylife405, was nice talking to ya and hope to see you soon.

I'm still on the fence of being there or not. I'm supposed to be judging a show the same weekend so I'm not sure how this will all work out just yet. I can tell you that the "remote locations" are a terrible idea and will inhibit future joint finals.

It would help most if post what size frame your blown HDC3's have as well as which version of frame they have. If your not sure on which version a picture would help a ton.

Let me amend my post real quick. lol I just noticed this was in FI's section so if you have other questions I would start a new thread and carry on there. That way we don't clutter up the section to much.

Once the topic has been addressed some times the topic dies out..other times the conversations just keeps going until there is just nothing to talk about. Feel free to post up any questions you have. This forum is pretty good about getting you the help you need and to get you pointed in the right direction the first time around. Not wait for you to make a mistake then help you correct it.

I have a wall with 4 15s and about 6krms and we use 3/4" mdf single layered with bracing(custom metal bracing), but it does have a double baffled front. The reality of the thickness of the wood boils down to bracing and such. If bracing is done correctly you can use a single layer for far more then most think. While over kill never hurt anyway, it can hurt the pocket book.

I didn't correlate the calculation of the port area to enclosure size, that's not what I meant by that statement. We both know the so called "rule of thumb" if calculating XX.xx sqin of port area per cuft of enclosure size is not the right way to calculate port area. As you know, the more port area you have the longer the port has to be to maintain the same tuning. That causes the port to rob more displacement inside the enclosure causing the enclosure to have to be larger to maintain the correct NET volume. That's what I meant about the size and not going any larger. I used the maximum dimensions I was willing to give up and that was the maximum amount of port area I could utilize and still maintain my preferred 4.2cuft of net volume, 32hz tuning and stay within my limits. I do agree, using less than the ideal port area can and does still yield very usable results, and thanx on the enclosure, tho it's Chevy Orange, not red. lol Red...Orange......meh...same color lol I always get clients wanting us to do a gloss white for the use of the all mighty neon light... They do look good at night..but a bit over played with how they go about it.

3/4" plexi is what we both use actually. It is pretty strong and I don't think you will have an issue with those FI's and that plexi. 3/4" MDF is also what most use and works great. You can double baffle the sub baffle, or you can get creative with window style bracing.

looks like a fun plan Do you plan to put the plexi flushed in? Or more recessed looking?

Oh, ok - thats good to know. Yeah, i have plenty of trunk space (gmc yukon) however i want to take up the least amount possible cause i still have to be able to carry stuff. On the side of my box that i can port, i can fit up to 3 aeroports or one slot port. Because of the advice ive received on here, im leaning towards a large slot port now... Btw, i cant thank all who have replied enough! as a new member, i didnt know if anyone would care but now i feel really welcome! If you want to conserve space I would suggest going with a precision port. If you don't mind taking up the room a slot port will work just fine as well.

You can use a single 6" port with no issues. If you are using a nice flared port, like precision ports, you should not really get any port noise.

Port area is not based on enclosure size, but by the drivers used as well as the goals in mind. A pair would be to much and would be far to long for most to every consider. For a couple of FI's I have done single 6" ports in the past and they work just fine, sound great and get plenty loud for daily and/or SPL. The enclosure I had pictured actually ended up with a pair of OA 12s and was doing very very well for a trunk car. Also, you have to consider the room available and how everything works together in the application. I like your enclosure though, that read looks real nice.

Yes, that image is hosted by photobucket. And thanks. It is a pretty basic setup with the plexi flushed in. Normally I like to do a 1/4" baffle on the back to had a bit of "niceness" to the install, but with our clients we have to build to fit with in budgets so we some times have to make compromises. Just make sure when you do the enclosure you paint or wrap the inside of the enclosure. It will look much better.

photobucket.com Make an account, host the images there, then post a link here. Plexi is fun to play with once you get the enclosure and subs all figured out. We did this for a trunk car not to long ago...

I would do a slot port and use more port area. Yea, the issue is of course the length if you do more port area with precision ports. A slot port may start to be an issue if it takes up to much room. But that is all in the number crunching and see what happens in the end. No matter which direction it goes in...I'm sure it will end up being fairly loud. lol

Hey, what's up!! I'm going to do some number crunching for you and get you an email back tomorrow morning. I'm also going to look into a few options to use larger ports to decrease the number of ports. Anyway, this should be a fun build when it's all over and done with. That offer for the walls still stands if you change your mind lol.

Good 'ol USPS for ya.... lol