Billy Jack

What the hell this shit is years old why did it pop up and say 6 hours ago it was posted. It even said new in the forum head.

I'm like edouble I would use 2 15's or 2 18's for 5k watts+ in a suv. Should be plenty of room for a huge box and a couple of battery's. I would measure first see how many cubic feet you have for a box then match the biggest subs you can fit to the power you have. 2 15's at 2500watts a piece should move a ton of air.

Holy sh!t that's gonna bang. I wish I had the room for such a huge build I have always wanted a wall but have never took the leap from trunk, and hatch to wall. I think I'm going to do a 2-18"s or 3-15"s in my work car. I already have a nice all JL system in my new car but I want a spl system in my hooptie.

Sundown team 18" SSA evil 18" or Incriminator 18" would be my choice any of those is on a crescendo 5500 is gonna be rediculously loud. Your gonna need some electrical upgrades to support a 5500 watt amp. Big 3 Altenator and rear battery.

Good to know.

What's up with the crescendo amps? Is it the factory that can't keep up with demand or is there a problem with shipping. I read some where there was a strike going on in some shiping ports is that the problem? I been trying for a while to get a bc3500 cause I already have one and want matching amps. Had I known they would have been hard to get I would have went another way.

I was thinking about trying 2 15" evils in my work car in a wall. But I could probably only support a 5k amp on the electrical, think they would do ok on 5k.

Looks like a mean little speaker. Or should I say evil.

Yea I noticed he was kind of a dick to people commenting on his stuff. Good to know it wasn't just me thinking that.

Do you know something I don't cause everybody in the audio world acts like Steve Meade knows his shit are the dyno's not accurate. Wate don't you guys here at SSA sell his signed subs?

Well dodge says I have a 160amp altenator but I'm sure that's max output cold at like 5000rpm's not hot idle. I'm gonna get a voltage meter first and see how that does and if I have voltage drop I will get a mechman alt and upgrade my battery under the hood. Or should I say bumper in my car. My factory battery is 3 years old like the car but it seems to do good. I will give JL one thing they do rated and are efficient. I ran a US 2000 years ago and it would suck my battery dry in a half a song. This was in the 90's and high output alt's where super expensive and rare now it's no big deal.

I currently drive a 2013 Dodge Avenger R/T with the 3.6liter V6 and I have 2 JL 13w7's, 2 HD1200/1's, Alpine 137bt HU, with Alpine 200watt power pack running JL C2 61/2's in front and C2 6x9's in rear and stock 31/2's in my dash and I also have a audio 1000 watt capable battery in my trunk wired in with the factory batt. As of right now I'm only running 1 sub and 1 amp and I wandering what kind of electrical upgrades I would need to run both sets for 2600watts that's 2 amps and the power pack together. I'm gonna do the big 3 and add another 1000 watt capable battery, do you guys think this would be enough, or would I need a high output alternator as well. I pretty sure the pentestar engine has a 160amp alternator stock. Thanks for any replies. And I know you can't give me perfect answers I'm just looking for ballpark here before I proceed with putting the other sub and amp in. Ow and the subs are in sealed prowedge JL factory boxes.

It's a video on you tube, the guy is using a SMD amp dyno so it looks pretty credible. I know internally they look identical.

I already have the first sub, amp, and battery installed and it's doing great no light dimming or anything else. Yea I will order a voltage Meter so I can keep a eye on it. Thanks for the reply. I plan on building a custom ported box for the 2 13w7's so that will help not draw as much power since it's easier to push the subs in a ported box. Who makes a really good volt meter? SMD, stinger, etc

Look the video up they are the same board not that it makes them the same exact amp but pretty close. You would be amazed at how many of these amps are the same with a different case. I was looking at 3 big amps the other day and they where identical it was the crescendo encore 4500 the audio legion 5k and I can't remember the other one but it's sold here on ssa to.

I used to do the same thing back in the day on my cheap stuff but now that I'm older and have some high dollar equipment I pull fuses before I touch anything.

Will the prices remain the same or will they be matched to ssa prices. I couldn't help but notice 1800 was a $100 cheaper on crescendo bc5500.

I saw a vid on you tube where A guy tested and compared the soundqubed 2k and the Brutus 2400 and they looked like the same amp inside with different cases and heat sinks. So that should tell you something right there. He actually said he preferred the hifonics for the money and they clamped nearly the same.

I had a brain fart I was talking about daisy chaining two amps not linking them together my bad. Yea I always prefer to run a amp a sub if I'm running multiple amps but if I have one sub amp and one highs mids amp i run the rca's throught one amp to the other.

I have never had a problem linking amps. I linked my Phoenix gold M100 and M50 back in the day with no problems. I think what your talking about is people say it's better to have one big amp for like subs then 2 smaller amps. That way you don't have to power two amps for one signal.

When I do my installs I start from scratch and run my own wires for everything. I cut my speaker wires to the same length even if they don't need to be. And this has always helped with my "SQL" installs. I know the same power is traveling the same distance to my speakers.