General Audio
An Open Forum Dedicated To all audio questions that do not fall under the other specific categories.
3,954 topics in this forum
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http://www.icixsound.com/vb/showthread.php...2366#post142366
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ok so my cars alternator is PCM conrolled.. and that means low voltage to start with. 14 flat cold on a good day 13.8 13.6 hot with my 300 amp mechman 4 31 series dekas in the rear and an old exide orbital under the hood..... so i spend a few bills and get a misslink audio module, to boost my voltage, and at first it did.. 14.6 cold, 14 flat hot... but then it became very spratic it was all over the place, and some times 13.00 hot... but normally 14.2 or so idled up .... well while testing to get ready for texas heatwave the biggest show in texas, thats this weekend.. my scores were down a full DB... well my orbital under the hood is 5 year old maybe older.. so…
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Who is under the impression that bigger ports have narrower band widths compared to smaller port boxes? I have heard this a few times in the last few days. I wanna if this is a common miss-conception.
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Hey all... After a few months of running my ID comps off of a bridged 4CH amp (150wRMS) dialed down to about 100wRMS, I got a wild hair up my ass and decided to run them off of one channel each. The output was about the same but the clarity is so much better! My Q's are still drowning out the highs though so I'm looking into multiple speakers... I have my 6.5"s in custom door pods, and the tweets in the sail panels. I was going to put two Kenwood 5.25"s that I have in the rear sails (run off HU), maybe purchase a set of 4" speakers for the upper front doors(run off HU), which would leave me with an extra two channels on the Infinity to slap onto another set of co-ax speak…
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I would like to run an IB sub (ski pass) setup in my new vehicle (2015 honda accord coupe) but I'm unsure if its a smart idea to cut the rear seat back. In previous vehicles w/ a 60/40 split rear seat I would lay down one of the rear seat sections. However, this vehicle the entire rear seat back is steel and does not have a split section that I can lower. Also, there is no pocket arm rest in the center like most sedans which people commonly vent through. Can I remove a section of metal and vent through the foam/leather seat? For low frequencies I think I would be fine... How much metal should I remove? Some percentage of SD? …
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First, what is the different between the Original, and the Extreme Dynamat? Because, I am thinking of just getting two packs of the Original Speaker Kits. A set for up front, and a set in the back. I didnt think I would need to shell out for extreme. Should work all in the same manor right? I'm only going to put in the new '07 Type R comps and coax's. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=12644 And also, my car is a 2002 Honda civic SI. I believe it has a 70 amp alternator. My sub amp will be pulling 1300wrms and speaker amp doing 60 wrms a channel. So, will I need a capacitor? If so, how many farads? What brand is good? Because I also have after market…
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as a hardcore SQ guy I wanna try some new things for the next show. I want to be able to black all the windows out(pyscho-acustics) so the judges can't locate any of the drivers....I don't want it to look bad(towels and such) any ideas? I do wanna keep it as cheap as I can too but totally black the car out.
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I have always had a decent sound system set up in my vehicle and have been driving for 11 years mostly in the area of Cleveland, OH. We have a high population of white tail, as in many other areas in the Northeast region. Deer have become a nuisance to drivers, as a collision may cause serious damage to your vehicle and possible injury, or death. I always noticed that when I had the woofers turned up at night and exceeding 35 mph, white tail deer reaction to the stimulus of sound was not to fleed, but to remain still on the side of the roadway. I decided to do some research, and possibly try to determine the cause of low and high foreign sounds for a deer to react this wa…
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has anyone heard these amps made by performance teknique?
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I recently read Galamonkeys avalanche build and the specs of the box were something like 4cuft sealed chamber for two 18" btls, with a high tuned ported chamber. He commented saying the lows were quite good. now, separetly a 4cuft sealed box for two 18" btls would sound bad, and a high tuned box would not hit any lows. How does that add together and work well? Off the top of my head, it seems like a large sealed chamber with a low tuned ported chamber would be the smart choice. I've never been able to experiment with bandpass boxes, so cut me a little slack.
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I have a 1.3 ft^3 vented box tuned to 33 hz and an Audioque 1200w amp. I placed an order for a GCON-10d2 so I can have plenty of head room and keep the gain down on the amp. My goal is "SQL", not looking to flex all my body panels. I chose this particular size box and sub so I can keep most of my trunk space available. I keep thinking I should have chosen a more powerful subwoofer that can handle ~1000w RMS (ie. FI SSD or AQ HDC3, etc) I'd hate to order a new sub just to wait even longer for the build time. I listen to rap, R&B, techno, dance, dubstep... All advise and recommendations is much appreciated. Thanks!!
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My dad is going to help me build the enclosure with his CNC machine so things should go smoothly when cutting the boards to their correct lengths. Right now I have a 2.3cu. box tuned @ 33hz (which I built it myself) and it gets decently loud, but I want to get louder which is why I decided to make an enclosure which will hold two Icons. I listen to a variety of music such as heavy metal, alternative, rock, R&B, rap, techno, and some dub step. I will get back to you with my trunk dimensions when I get home from work. I want to use this box as a daily use, but I still want it to get loud. What type of box will be the best to build to achieve this? On a side note, I als…
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i was thinking about a design something like this for 3 15's in a trunk let me know what you guys think...suggestions and opinions
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Im looking into to upgrading to a high output alternator. I was searching high output alternators for 1999 ford contour and found db electrical. they sell a 220A alt for 239 plus like 20 shipping. i think thats reasonable but id like to know if its worth it. anyone have any experience with db electrical alternators? also open to suggestions on other places to look. i have a 1999 ford contour 4 cyclinder 2.0 liter. id ike to keep the cost around 2-300 but i can probably go a little higher if i have to.
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hello all, this is my first post and i am pretty much a novice when it comes to car audio. that being said, right now i'm driving a '97 neon and i'm still running the stock speakers all around with some cheapy audio 3000 10" subs in a bandpass being run by a kenwood amp. i'm looking to get a system where the lyrics are clearly heard and the bass doesn't pound too hard but still pounds. (if that makes any sense)my questions are these: 1. i'm interested in building a half decent system on a students budget. what do u guys/gals think would be good speakers and subs to get? 2. is it better to stick with one manufacturer for the whole car? 3. how does watts,, amps, ohms com…
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Hi, I recently purchased a pair of supertweets and pro mids both of wich are powerbass. I have been looking for an active crossover tk install them but am not sure what to get. I think they are supposed to be crossed at 5 thousand htz and above. This is my firt set of supertweets I have ever installed so kind if scared i will mess them up.not wanting to spend more than $200 but not limited to that much .Sorry if posted in wrong place.
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Has anyone ordered from Sonic or Online Car Stereo? Are these companies legit? What I was specifically looking at was a newer Pioneer 5700 DVD. The prices are sweet and are about $130.00 less than Crutchfield. Just wanting to know if anyone has any experience with these companies???
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First my previous system was; (2) 12 inch Powerbase Extreme Subwoofers (About 800 Watts RMS Each) (1) Elemental Designs NINe.1 amp (1200 RMS at 14v) I sold my turbo g35 and now have a 2006 Dodge Charger (Ya it has a hemi ) I listen to Rap, Hip Hop, and R&B. I always love deep bass, my previous subs went deep on a couple songs. Higher bass tones are always great too. I was wondering what you guys think I would be happier with or what would be louder; 1 15 inch fully loaded Fi BTL or 2 12 inch Fi SSD's As for an amp what do you guys suggest. I think 1500 - 1800 RMS would be good enough for me. I really dont want to upgrade electrical in my car, just do the big 3. Budge…
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Not sure if anyone else was on the email list but they announced they are reopening and are currently producing subs, plans to release the extremis 6.8 for early next year and Koda's either in the first or second half of the year. https://adireaudio.com/
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I've got a used SSA DCON 10" and alpine mrp-m350 amp. The amp is hooked up to a line out conerter tapped into my rear speakers with the amp recieving power. The sub is wired in parallel and is a dvc 4ohm sub so the amp's output is going to be 2ohms. I've got both sub terminals, negative to negative and positive to positive. The wire connecting the box is connected to ONE terminal...that is correct right? I've checked all the wires again and again yet can't get the sub to do anything. I changed grounds to no avail. I bought a used sub off a member on caraudio.com (lil98cabrio) and am starting to think it's blown, but don't have another sub to test. Is there a way to test…
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Well, another essential piece of equipment for the Royal Regal project showed up today... Ah yes, the beautiful Diamond Audio D7056. Enjoy:
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- 1 follower
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Hey guys..im not really sure if this is the right section to put this in, so if its not fell free to move it. Well tonight i got all my wires ran through my car for the new sub. We got everything ran, amp hooked up, sub hooked up, and it all worked perfect. The sub sounded fine. I went out for a little drive with a couple buddies, and we had the music up at a decent volume just to here how loud the bass could get. When we got back to my house we sat and listen to it for a little bit longer doing the same thing. Car was running the whole time. I went to get into the car to change to a different song and i noticed that my check gauges light was on, and that the temperature…
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So my ex had a cat and my subs suffered for it that will teach me to leave them lying around (haven't even used them yet). It's a RE SX 12 from about 2005-2006. Is there anyone that can rebuild it or am i looking at a loss. Its not been used so everything is good just not the cap that was punctured. Thanks for any advice toward a fix. I want to use the set in a 1996 lincoln town car I hope at least.
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I was wondering if this cable would be good to use for making custom rcas ? here are the links... PartsExpress 2 PartsExpress 1 If you know anything better can use list the site? Attn mods Im thinking this should be moved into the general section for better traffic...
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