General Audio

So I was looking to built a nice comp/sq. system in my Jeep cherokee couple of FI-audio 18Q/15Q. So far I've got the alarm, yellow top optima, and two sets of MB Quart qsd-216's. However I have seemed to blow my older mid amp; A mtx 4320 thunder, you know the red & black ones. can't figure out how it happened, but need either to get it fixed or just consider getting a new one. Hence my problem, my bud had originally planned to go with soundstream PCA2000D, bu the found and oldschool US amps DE1000, on ebay.... I bought it, then researched the model. I found an older topic on this forum concerning this very seller, "Chassis" and promply responed as to how I'm not …

Right now I have the following: Shitty H/U, replacing that real real soon, but that and my amp are tuned to prevent clipping. Audiopipe AP15001D, 1500W @ 1Ω / 950W @ 2Ω (LINK HERE TO OFFICIAL SITE WITH SPECS) 2 - Fi BL 12 Dual 2Ω Enclosure 2.4 ft³ ported tuned to 32Hz Enclosure 1.5 ft³ ported tuned to 42Hz (41Hz if sub sits ass-out) Horrible 80 amp alternator (It's a 2.4L 4 Cyl Mitsubishi Galant) So with all that, my questions arise: 1. Would it be better to run the one sub at 1500W, or both subs at 475W each @ 2Ω. Keep in mind, that my alt is probably already starving my amp and it most likely isn't pushing out the full 1500w. I also thought about running them @ .5Ω, but…

Im planning on putting 2 batteries under the hood for my 1990 mazda b2200 sound system soon. Gonna have little over 4k watts rms, i already upgraded the alternator to a 300 amp. I could get optima or diehard platinum cheap from my friend but im open to other brands.

does anybody know anything about almani car audio??

I am looking at purchasing a set of high quality headphones without breaking the bank. I will be using them daily, directly connected to my iPhone 5. I want a set to have good tonal balance and smooth response. Requirements: 1. Tonally correct 2. Closed back to aid with outside noise rejection 3. Low impedance to help get a high output level 4. Smooth frequency response The German Maestro GMP 8.35 D looks like a good set at $250. Thoughts?

I don't know the full story on Memphis. But I'm very, very curious as to how PowerBass stacks up to them now, and how they will stack up in the future. Memphis seems to me to be a bread-and-butter brand that many small independent shops can push without any concern that the stuff will pop up on the internet or in a big-box store. We've been selling PowerBass (AutoSound and Xtreme) for about 2 years now. We've worked really hard to emphasize the value and performance of their subs, coaxials, components, and now autosound amplifiers vs. other brands. I've told customers of the PowerBass Xtreme competitors and their history of building equipment for other brands such as M…

My goal for my rebuild is mainly spl with sq properties(140db+ ). I listen to all types of music. But mostly R&B and Rock. Current system: Alt- Stock (65 or 70amp) Batt- Stock Head Unit: Aplpine 9881 Speakers: Front- Infinity Refremce 5.25" Rear- N/a Center- Stock Ford 5x7 Subwoofer- 1400w Pioneer Shallow Mount Amplifier- 1400w Hitron 2 Channel class a/b (sucks @ss) The stuff that is on the chopping block is: The biggest box I can fit behind my seat with 3/4" mdf: Length- 60" Bottom width-10" Top width- 4" Height- 24" I would perfer it to be ported, but i dont know what specs it would be. If it cant be ported its fine by me. Subwoo…

When it comes down to the option of which way to fire your subs and port in a trunk I was wondering did the amount of power you were running made a difference if you have to fire your subs forward (into the cabin) or to the rear (back of the trunk)? I know that it can be a personal preference and is ususally done when people are competing or wanting more output fro m there setup but I was just curious does power level play a role even if it is a daily driver. On a side note I have heard some of the low end is sacrificed when forward firing as well since it takes the waves longer to bounce off something, will a lower tuning help out with this issue? Will the issue be that …

Any suggestions I have 2 box one black slot port specs are: 3.6 net after displacement tuned to 32-33 hz 2.5" port width 48 square inch of port area, both box are the same size 20d x 26w x 21h, and the aero box specs are: 4.5 net after displacement tuned to 32-33hz, 3 4" aero port 38 square inch of port area, wanted to put a sp4 v2 15 which would you guys prefer to used, I'll do a dual 12 or 15 on my other upcoming car but for now is single 15"

This isn't going to be a huge build just something as a stock upgrade with a little bit of kick for the old lady. I want it as simple as I can get. Probably going with a five channel amp just for the ease of the install and eyeing the sundown 1100.5 I believe 150x4 at 2 ohms for the fronts and 800x1 for the sub channel. Probably a sealed truck box. Only doing front doors and preferably 2 12's if they fit and there's enough airspace. Any ideas what will sound decent with that power? By no means will it ever compete. Just a little bump and clarity.

Background info 02 Silverado Active 2-way (Seas Prestige ER18RNX Woofers, Seas Prestige 27TDFC) Tweeters Crossed @ 2500Hz with 12db slope Set @ -7db (Gains set based on voltage) Pioneer HUH701 Processor I'm having a tweeter problem. I blew my tweeter and thought it was just faulty (the right tweeter is still going strong). Madisound fixed it for free but said it was trashed (voice coil) and nicely said it wouldn't be free again. Put in the new one and played fine for a week. One day this weird sound started coming from the right speakers (sounded like a bad ground, popping and such) and then all of a sudden, left tweeter gone again. i had heard that sound before but …

I just got a Kicker L7 12 2 ohm and I have an alpine m500 amp, i know its underpowered but it seems to be bottoming out or clipping. It just sounds awful. I dont know if i described this very well just ask and ill provide information where needed. Is it just a tuning problem? Also it will just cut off when the volume gets to loud.

wats da deal with the Pioneer AVHP5050DVD unit, Cant find info nowhere on it.

so i've got a 1993 Saturn SC1 that has a busted lock system for the trunk. The trunk itself can open in the front via a lever. BUT, if I am going to put the system I want in this car, I want to make it so the car has to be in accessory mode before the trunk can open (or key in ignition, what ever will start 12V activity via remote) I was thinking attaching a small 12v pull motor to the line that runs to the front, then just setting it up so it can be toggled while the radio is running... I dont even know if this is possible ;o Basically, I want my stuff to be harder to steal. 'cause the trunk alone has been worked on (by me personally!) so the hatch mechanism are MUCH low…

Been looking around for a good 6.5 half component set speakers for my door for good midrange!!! The problem is cant find any speakers i like for under 100$. Im going to power the bad boys with a "Infinity reference series 7541a" amp. Open minded for any speakers suggestions.

Hi folks, after a long f'd up process trying to figure out what was wrong with my tarantula amp. I decided to trade a dude for his autotek mean machine 3000.1 (before maxxonics bought them). Anyhow, that amp is only 2 ohm stable bridged. Therefore, I can only run 1 of my Ti Elite 12's (dual 4ohm). It simply is not enough output. So I thought about it and decided that The happiest I was, was when I had an 18 Cerwin Vega circa 1998. After selling my last Elite, I will have roughly $400 for an 18. I decided to make my car a 2 door and take the rear seats out and put the box back there. I don't want to wall it off.....yet. So I should have plenty of room for whatever Driver I…

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What could be the cause of a staticy sound coming through speakers? It doesn't seem like any kind of engine noise cause it happens with the motor off. It sounds like static from the radio if a radio station is not coming in good but quiet...... And it still happens when my rca's are unhooked from my amp and/or head unit.

thats it, ive made my decision. im going to get a 03 18" xxx and tsunami 1100 watt amp. i just have to wait till right after the 15 to order. i cant fricken wait to hear metallica, mudvayne, and the occasional tupac on this sub. al

Who is under the impression that bigger ports have narrower band widths compared to smaller port boxes? I have heard this a few times in the last few days. I wanna if this is a common miss-conception.

saw a post on @sublifecrew on instagram today showing pictures of a 10k by crescendo named the encore 10k. It looks flawless. Any one have any info on it?

ok i wanna get my crap togather im think im gonnna make a few more runs of 0 gauge i currenty have a cigg lighter plug in volt display, but its very off! to say the least. i was looking at a few displays and wondering what yall use, i was looking at this model http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-Digital-Blue-V...1QQcmdZViewItem anyone know where i can pick one up either cheaper. or the same price just better? also.. should i run one to the rear cells, to watch there and then another for my starting cell? just to keep a eye on my system?

Im not trying to make this another one of those Vs threads. But i do have some questions concerning extra batteries as the pertain to my application. I will be running 100.2 and 2 Sundown 1500d's. Would it be more beneficial for me to pick up 2 Deka Intimidator 9A31's or to go ahead and get a Kinetic 2400( or 2000 depending on what i can find). Any comments will be greatly appreciated. Thanx, Brandon

Wasup SSA! I'm seeing alot of builds lately using Birch wood and I never used Baltic Birch before. I know that its 10 bucks more,lighter, and stronger than MDF. But my ? is which wood gives MORE output & helps out on meter better? Weight isn't an option I just wanna know whats the best material to use & what will be loudest! Thanks SSA

how many batteries would u recommend for a sundown 3500d saz pushing 2 15" xcon's and a 100.4 saz for mid's and highs?