General Audio
An Open Forum Dedicated To all audio questions that do not fall under the other specific categories.
3,954 topics in this forum
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LOL, ok so a customer walks into my store today and wants to get a box built. Well the builder is out for the week. But just out of interest i wanted to know what he had and he says Konaki. Never heard of it let me go look. So i'm expecting like walmart quality stuff. He says he got it in houston, which is where most of the people from around here go to pick up "cheap" car stereo stuff. So i look in and there are 2 12s in boxes. so i try to pick up a box and i was barely able to pick it up. Crazy heavy and dual 1 ohm. Speaker says 2400w Max and 1200Wrms. http://konaki.com/12.html managed to find a website. the model # was KO12-1207A Just thought it intersting an…
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ok, i got my box built (5 cubes net @33hz), and now my subs aren't loud at all.it sounds like they're bottoming out on every song i play (i listen to mostly rap) the sq is horrible cause they bottom out non-stop, i think its the settings on my amp here they are: subsonic=20 bass eq= 1/2 up low pass=1/2 (out of 35-250 phase=90 deg. (what is this, and what is it for?) level (gain)= 1/4 way up..... is it my settings or what???i can't think of anything else unless its my box but i rechecked the math on it and it came out right....my port is 10x8, the calculator on carstereo.com i used said 21" long (20.97 btw), so i used end correction and took off 5", is this right?my port i…
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Hello SSA it has been a while! I just recently purchased a '12 mustang base model and I really need to upgrade the audio soon before I go insane. The problem is if I want to run any kind of aftermarket head unit I have to buy a $300 dash kit just to put another radio in due to the climate control and radio controls being in one panel. So by the time I get a nice double din and a dash kit it will be $600 easy. I was thinking of just running a LOC out of the factory unit and plugging that into a rockford 5-channel on some sundown components and maybe a sa12. My main question is if the LOC gets the signal from the speakers that are coming from the head unit and I replace the…
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as a hardcore SQ guy I wanna try some new things for the next show. I want to be able to black all the windows out(pyscho-acustics) so the judges can't locate any of the drivers....I don't want it to look bad(towels and such) any ideas? I do wanna keep it as cheap as I can too but totally black the car out.
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I'll never do this, it's for 2 SMD 18's in 8 cubes with 15.375 sq. in. of port per cube. Would it work, the port wrapped around the box? It's 1*123, so 123" of port area. Would there be port noise, not enough back pressure, or crappy air movement? I forgot the brace for the bolt. If the port was 1:4 it would be tuned around 30hz, says a port calculator.
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yes hello everyone i just have a quick question i have a new soundstream cd dvd player with usb port my question is can i hook up my portable hardrive to it or does it have to be formatted fat 32 its a 55 gb portable hard drive .Thanks for all of your help
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Hi guys this post may be long and I apologize in advance. First off I am by no means wealthy in any sort of the word. I currently own a 97 Buick LeSabre (240,000mi on it) so a new car will soon be required. I want my car to suit my audio setup more that the other way around. I want to keep the following attributes in play with the decision. 1.space / big trunk (for multiple 15's or more) 2.interior that is "easier" to modify. I would be willing to tear rear seats out to mount amps and batteries there. 3. Accessabily so it is not such a pain to run multiply runs of 1/0 cable from front to rear. (Not that big a deal) 4. "Acoustics" as is like some paper thin doors that r…
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Does anyone know the name of the three way system design employed by volkswagen with the midbass at your hip, the mid at the front of the door and the tweets in the pillar? Ellipsoidos or something, I lost my bookmark to the write up and I'm clueless as to where I found it
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Im not totally new to systems but i am fairly new to this site and ive looked at some of the forums. I have an s10 with an ex cab, and i was wanting a system that would hit hard but at the same time not sound really bad. From what i have read is that a BL is what im looking for, i was thinking 2 BL 12s in a ported box. Im not too sure on the amp or if those are the subs that i would want for sure. Some feedback would be pretty nice. its also been a while since ive hooked up a system if somebody could refresh my memory I do want about 2000 watts of power, and i dont want my lights dimming all the time like i had the problem in my car, i hear capacitors help with that but…
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So far this has been a learning experience to say the least. It's been frustrating at times, especially with the AZ heat. I'd like to list some advice/say a few things that I've learned so far. I'll update with more pics later. Think about your space! I've had to measure and visualize my trunk 20x over before I finally agreed on some concrete dimensions. This is how I came to purchase the XCON 12 and fit it in it's optimal enclosure in my trunk. I also have room for 2 amp racks if I need as well. Tools It's been quite an investment for the tools that I had to buy, but it's incredibly worth it. These are my first tools, and they're for a project that I really care abou…
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i bought a fully loaded Fi BTL 18", dual 1 ohm I have a 1ohm stable amp. Hifonics Bx1605d for the moment until i buy my sundown 3000. How do i wire the sub at 1 ohm? probably a newb question, i know and im sorry but i searched a while and couldnt find anything. sorry i am just confused and dont have anyone near me who can do it or tell me with out charging. i am new-ish to the car audio thing but i know how to do most of it. Only 17. please give me some pointers or a link to somewhere to give me a hand or something to make sure i do this rite. Thanks in advance!!! Nofear.
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http://www.ce.org/certifications/mecp/default.asp what r the answers to these test??? david i say your the smartest.. let me know
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So about 4 months ago i bought Two Pioneer TS-d1720c Speakers and i had them wired directly to my headunit, They worked great but everyone told me to buy an aftermarket amp and they will sound a lot better. So about a month later i decided to buy the Alpine MRV-F300 amp to wire my speakers too. I got everything hooked up to the new amp but for some reason i felt like my speakers sound better when they were wired to the headunite instead of the new amp ( //Example// I felt like my bass coming from my speakers sounded a lot fuller when they were wired to my headunite. When i had them wired to my aftermarket amp, The bass was kinda flat) . I asked 100 questions on a few …
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Hey guys what would you think be better for my single cab truck 3 Sundown SA 8s on a SA 1000D or 3 SSA Dcon 12s Running on a SA 1000D? Please respond fast
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So I recently purchased a 2002 Volkswagen Jetta off of a friend of a friend. Today, I played some music and the sound quality was horrible!! :/ It sounds muffled and shaky.. I tried to adjust the treble & bass but that didn't make a difference. I want to have a new system put in, do you think it'll fix that problem? If so, what exactly do I have to get? I don't know anything about sound systems or cars lol.. What brand do you reccomend?? Thanks!!
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I'm back.. my insurance came through, tomorrow I get a Clarion 835 for like 50 bucks (new in box, with warranty... it's a great system) and I can get back tow ork on being too lazy to install things... anyways, gonna cut a corner or two and texture pain teh fibreglass enclosure, find otu what's wrong with my Koda, and hopefully fix it, and then be ready to pound... that's my story and i'm stickin to it.. :ph34r:
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Well I finally got my car all cleaned up. I recently bought a 1995 Nissan 240sx SE, last thursday. Enough my pictures, the car was professionally buffed at work(I work for Toyota) and my buddy still has to do the inside. It cost me 50$ through work for a basic detail, and then I paided him $25 plus 3 days of lunch. So basically I'm paying about 85-95$ for a 500+ detail job. He spent 5hours buffing, polishing, and waxing the outside today, and is going to do the inside tomorrow at work. Heres the pictures... I'm very excited about this car. BEfore anyone says... why didnt you do it yourself, well for one, this was professionally done by out TOC detail division at work. TOC…
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Guys was thinking of installing a dual alternator for my new project. My questions are: i. My current stock alternator is rated at 60 amps. If I were to upgrade to a bigger alternator, would there be a risk of frying the electrical with a higher current alternator? Or can I just replace it without upgrading my battery to bigger ones? ii. If I were to install 2 alternator, what do I have to do? Can I just wired 2 alternators together or do I have to add external regulators or relay? Since its very hard to find bigger size of alternator in my place, I was planning to install dual 90 or 100 amps to my car and also upgrade the big 3. Anyone has more info in upgrading alter…
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Right now I have the following: Shitty H/U, replacing that real real soon, but that and my amp are tuned to prevent clipping. Audiopipe AP15001D, 1500W @ 1Ω / 950W @ 2Ω (LINK HERE TO OFFICIAL SITE WITH SPECS) 2 - Fi BL 12 Dual 2Ω Enclosure 2.4 ft³ ported tuned to 32Hz Enclosure 1.5 ft³ ported tuned to 42Hz (41Hz if sub sits ass-out) Horrible 80 amp alternator (It's a 2.4L 4 Cyl Mitsubishi Galant) So with all that, my questions arise: 1. Would it be better to run the one sub at 1500W, or both subs at 475W each @ 2Ω. Keep in mind, that my alt is probably already starving my amp and it most likely isn't pushing out the full 1500w. I also thought about running them @ .5Ω, but…
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Im planning on putting 2 batteries under the hood for my 1990 mazda b2200 sound system soon. Gonna have little over 4k watts rms, i already upgraded the alternator to a 300 amp. I could get optima or diehard platinum cheap from my friend but im open to other brands.
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In case you couldn't tell I have a pair of Seas Excel 7" W18NX-001 & Seas Prestige 27TBFC/G tweeters. These things sure are beefy. I've never seen a tweeter quite like this one up close in real life hehe. Can't wait to get these things mounted and installed this weekend. I will be posting a nice review on them and the MD43 after about a month of listening and making sure everything is all set up and ready to be assesed.
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...and it smells funny. That is all.
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I am looking at purchasing a set of high quality headphones without breaking the bank. I will be using them daily, directly connected to my iPhone 5. I want a set to have good tonal balance and smooth response. Requirements: 1. Tonally correct 2. Closed back to aid with outside noise rejection 3. Low impedance to help get a high output level 4. Smooth frequency response The German Maestro GMP 8.35 D looks like a good set at $250. Thoughts?
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So I dont have a whole lot of pics but here are some. I know other people have alot more. It was an ok turn out. Maybe 50 people, not too huge. Dan was on the grill making us adire heads food. Maybe 15 cars went on the TL mic. I hit a 133.5 at 37hz with 220 watts on a brahma 15 with the mic by the headrest and one window down in a temp set up until I get my sub amp. There were some sick installs there but I know other people will have pictures to post of them so I'm not even going to bother getting into them now. I dont know anyone else on this forum who was there, but more talk about the event can be seen at http://forum.soundillusions.net/showthread.php?t=38754 along wi…
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When it comes down to the option of which way to fire your subs and port in a trunk I was wondering did the amount of power you were running made a difference if you have to fire your subs forward (into the cabin) or to the rear (back of the trunk)? I know that it can be a personal preference and is ususally done when people are competing or wanting more output fro m there setup but I was just curious does power level play a role even if it is a daily driver. On a side note I have heard some of the low end is sacrificed when forward firing as well since it takes the waves longer to bounce off something, will a lower tuning help out with this issue? Will the issue be that …
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