General Audio

This would be my first post onto this forum but to start it off i'd like some opinions. I had belief in a theory that if your woofers faced each other you could then perhaps feed them more power and essentially they would just load off of each other. Now technically speaking how do you guys think this would work? Keep in mind they are both (2) in phase with one another in separate boxes.

I have a 2001 Chevy Astro with 2 18's and I am curious as to how to place the subwoofer box. I have subs up and Port back.... so my question is how far do I have the port end before it hits the loading wall? any and all answers will be greatly appreciated.

I installed my Sundown SAX 1200d got it tuned the way I like it then broke my RCA's inside the amp's input terminals... I hooked my AQ1200d back up(I had some tsunami RCA's I never used) so I have to send my amp back to DB-r to get the RCA terminals fixed.

Alright... so with the dimensions i am using for my 18" BTL, it will give very limited space for air to move around the box. I was going to fire it into the trunk, BUT it will give little air space to move around the box to get back into the cabin. Will this be a major problem? If so ill need to rethink the build.

The other day I was in the drive through at Wendy's and my mids and highs sounded odd so I turned the subs off and cranked the volume higher than I ever listen to my system to try and pin point it. After I got my food I turned the subs back on with the headunit still paused without turning it down Lawl...so I unpause it and KABLOOMBANGNASTYSHITBRIXLOUD....I scared the fuck out of myself and my girl wouldn't talk to me for a while lol...has anybody else had a shitbrix bass moment?

So I heard about these funky pups does anyone know were to find info on these do they even make these still seems only place I can find them on outdated for sale threads

ok so my friend asked me to pick out some options for his first system. he has a 05 impala stock batt. he is not worried about sq; he just wants a daily driver.about 300$ for the subs and i told him to get a ap 1500. seats fold down he is not trying to seal off the trunk. he wanted 2 p1 15s i told him not to do that told him get 3 ia 187 12s, 1 ia li 15 , 2 rex 12s, or 1 15 fi bl. is there any other suggestions i could give him. i also told him to get a new batt. he is not worried about taking up the whole trunk, also the icon 15 was suggested.

I found port length calculator on a web sit called Mobile Information Labs, does anyone know if its correct. or is it a better one out there.

Anyone had experiences with this brand? Their amps? True power? Subs? Durability? Boxes? Good as or worse than prefab?

Hello all, I'm extremely bored and have been thinking about updating my system so i decided to make my first post in quite awhile. Currently I have 1 12" Fi SSD wired to 2 ohms, running off a Sundown SAE 1200 v2, in a 2 cu ft enclosure tuned to 32 hz. Electrical wise, I replaced my stock battery with a group 78 AGM from O'reilly's (supposedly made by deka) and I replaced the factory ground with 0 gauge. My stock alt is 130 amp and at idle when hot my voltage stays at 14.6 and up, even at max volume with the air off it may drop to 14.4 on songs with a consisent beat (only seen 13 volts maybe a handful of times with the air on and at idle in drive). Now that it's starting t…

I am trying to plan out my build so that I can place things and make my wiring but I have a few questions about a few things. I have a 1/0 run of power from my front going back to 2 extra batteries. I will be upgrading my big 3 4g with all 1/0 wires. In the back of my trailblazer will be the extra batteries. Now, I will just run the main power wire to the first battery then run a short wire to the + on the second battery, correct? And as far as the ground.. I'm sure it would be best to ground both batteries off to the frame... Should I run a short wire between the 2 -'s on both the extra batteries as well? And I'm also assuming that along with the fuse after the battery u…

Are there any tweeters that have a flush mounting diameter equal to or less than 1.25 inches(31.75 mm) ? The smallest I've found were the JL VR075-CT that were 1.50 inches.

I am still running factory 6x8 speakers in my car and I am looking to upgrade them but would like some suggestions on brand. My sub stage will be someday be two 12" 1-1.5k watt subwoofers and I dont want to go cheap on the speakers. Definitely want component speakers in the front and either identical components in the back or 2 way speakers. I would like something that gets loud and clear and would to keep the total price of the speakers and 4 channel amp to run them under $800. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Alright, so the reason why i didnt put this in the for sale section is because im just seeing how much interested it would actually get, i have a second one laying around but i dont want to part with it if im not getting the right price i guess. So either send me a PM or post on the thread and if anyone is really interested in buying this amp then we might make a deal.

So i go to walmart to do some shopping right...come out 30 minutes later and see my window busted out and nearly hit the ground!! Pop the trunk and NATHIN was in there.... Boy does it suck to work so hard for stuff just to get it taken by someone that has nothing. So new plan in the making for my next sub stage.... So im think since i had an aq2200 and i never had it wired past 2ohms this time im going to do a aq1200 and to match it with 4 10" dcons!! Im thinking since my car did good on 1200rms from my aq2200 then why not get the aq1200 and then 2 more 10's which in reality should be louder and maybe sound better then my 2 sa10's .....cant wait!!! But now its time for a …

Thinking about purchasing a used 10.4 and I don't really know a whole lot about the company. Rated power is 115 x 4 @ 4 ohms Any info is greatly appreciated.

I was wondering if there are any car audio magazines that are actually worth while? I picked up a pasmag today at Chapter to take a look at it.. it seemed alright? Just seems like more tits than audio..

I got done (for now) sound deadening my truck today, and when testing, I noticed there was still a bit of a rattle coming from some unknown location. I put my hand on a bunch of metal panels, sat on the box, nothing. Finally, I decided I would wait till daylight to really diagnose the problem. Later, I put a shirt over the port to see how much air was moving... The sound stopped. I removed the shirt, it started again. Did it a couple more times and the same thing happened... Am I missing something, or do I just need to dress up ( ) my box for it to want to work properly? I'm stumped.

Quick question. What is better having 1 big amp for 2 subs or having 1 amp for both subs that match the sub wattage?

After talking to a few people with different opinions, i wanted to see as a whole where people stand on this topic. This will be my first real build and i really want it to be the best it can be. Ill be running an Fi BTL N2 18 and i wanted to know which option will suit this build better.

So i Just bought a 2000 chev silverado 4x4 extended cab (out of 7 vehicles my first domestic and first truck) Where do you guys mount the amps mostly? behind the seats? below them? If anyone has pics of install that would be great Previous Builds as I have never posted here my mr2 frunk setup integra trunk setup

Alright, so since i have nothing but time on my hands i was looking around at the IASCA rule book, and im considering i might be competing after my nice long Canadian winter. Id be in the Rookie 2 section. (Single Fi BTL 18 N2). Now, i saw a rule that all subwoofer enclosures / ports need to be in the cargo area. My original plan was to have my two 6" Aero ports going through the 6x9 slots in my rear deck. So heres my solution. Since aero ports are lovely and are able to be removed, i was thinking of making much shorter, like 5" in length aero ports for competitions. Giving me like a 45 hz tune or something. Geez thinking about competitions when i havent even insta…

So I was cruising the eBay (fleebay) and I noticed this 1,050 Line driver and I thought I would ask WHY does it cost so much? sure it looks pretty but does that mean it should cost 1050? is this guy off his rocker or do I just not know enough about line drivers? http://www.ebay.com/itm/130381595024?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_500wt_1413 http://www.sinfoni.com/Accessories/Premier_One/premieroneinfosheet.pdf

Ughhh... here I go again! Reluctantly I am going to do this, although I am having a hard time getting motivated to do it. I am replacing the factory head unit, door speakers and adding a sub to my recently acquired 07 ST Limited. Headunit Parts Pioneer AVH-P3300BT 5.8-Inch DVD Receiver - $339 shipped. Pioneer GEX-P920XM XM Satellite Tuner - $90.99 shipped. Metra 95-5812 Double DIN Installation Kit - $10.52 shipped. Scosche FDK11B Wiring Harness - $14.94 shipped. PAC SWI-PS Pioneer and Sony Universal Steering Wheel Radio Interface - $38.99 shipped. Door Speakers Infinity Reference 6832cf 5 x 7 - $51.95/pair shipped. Subwoofer MTX Audio Thunderform FEXST01BK10A-T45 (Bl…

Over the past 18 years I have had countless audio systems. Most of them consisted of two 12" or two 15" and 500-1500w. There is one particular system that a neighbor had that I will never forget. He had a simple system, two Orion XTR 12" with a small cheap Kenwood 500w amp. His car was a three door, possibly it was a Gulf idk. Why I remember this system is because when the bass hits and when I/he was talking it sounded like we were talking through a fan. I have never been able to duplicate this effect. No matter how many subs or watts I had. Actually, I havent even sat in too many other cars that could either. What causes your voice to sound like you are talking through…