General Audio

Hey I'm in the planning stages of a build for my cousin. She knows absolutely nothing about car audio but I'm slowly changing that. I have a request for you guys though... Show me some Fi X's, DCON's, 187's, anything. I need some good pictures of stuff around that price/power range. I know all of those have stock photos but I wanna see some upside down and in boxes and all that. Thanks in advance.

ok let me first start off by telling you my equipment. I have a sundown 3000d, 4 skar 12s , 2 deka intimidators, redtop under hood, stinger capacitor good for 10,000 watts , my alternator is one i found on ebay im sure it does more amps than the stock one but probaly not much , i would like to say getting a new alternator is out of the question reasons are i have a 2002 intrepid 2.7L and noone really makes a alternator for this car they want me to use brackets in stuff i dont really trust that and plus the alternator isnt in a place i could check the bolts all the time. right now the car runs at idle 14.1 volts and i check the capacitor voltage by the amps it goes to most…

i have 2 skar 12's and a alpine m500 wired to 4ohms(changing amp soon) and it sounds like theres a sound coming from the sub that is not supposed to. it sounds like a high pitched rattle noise and im almost sure its not my car rattling because it will make that sound when the music is not very loud and the subs are only getting 150 watts each. i will make a vid tomorrow but does anyone think they know what this sound is? if you need any more info let me know

I am in a minor dispute here. I was looking to do a 150 trunk set up and I was talking about what I was looking to buy to a few friends of mine. One friend pipes up and says that "I can do 150 ease with 2 12s on 1k sealed in a 2 cube box".......BULLSHIT!!! SO....I am asking you guys who have done it before to please post if you have done it and how so?? i.e. ( what subs, amps, box size, electrical ect) So I can get a better idea of what kinda cash in going to be spending AND to prove him wrong.

i started a thread awhile back for my bro but plans have changed and his financial situation has improved so im back again. budget is 1000 bucks for equipment and materials. these are some of the things he's looking for; crisp clean sound upfront solid bass without taking up much room quality equipment (he wont buy anything secondhand) car is an 04 nissan sentra, (base model ) left over equipment from his previous build are just subwoofer amp, but no sub (his l7 got fucked...) and some wiring. unfortunately they didn't get the set of pg rsd's out either i've considered two basic systems, the first with a passive front stage and the second with a active front stage. thi…

Hi fellas, I am aquiring an 18 Nightshade that needs to be reconed. My question is, does the recone kit come with the glue and shims? If not where can I get them. I thought I'd post this since Jacob has been so busy. Thanks guys!

Alright well i finally got some cash and am looking to upgrade. Right now i'm looking at 2 Sundown SA-15's but i'm at a loss for what amp to run. I will set my gains right and I've heard these things are really beastly so I was thinking something in the 3k range? If anyone has some amp options or maybe even different subs. I have $450 for subs and around $350 for an amp. I realize the SA-15s are a bit more than $450 but I don't mind an extra $20. Short version 2 15's or something else to fit in around 7 cubic feet $450 3k amp $350 I will have the electrical to back it up Give me suggestions, if you want more info just ask Thanks in advance DylanH

I was going to get a DCON 12, ported around 30-32hz. I plan to run it off the bridged rear channels of a 4 channel amp. Was going to get the Crescendo 1000C4, but it doesnt have the option to use the HPF as a subsonic filter. Will it really be needed? I like to listen to Bass Mekanik and other artificial bass heavy stuff like that.

I just bought a 2011 Mazda 3 sedan and already bought a Pioneer avh-3200bt along with everything that it needs to get hooked up (I hope), haha guess i'll find out when I hook it up. Now I am looking for speakers. My last system had two 6.5" Polk Audio DB651s, and two Infiniti reference 9623i 6x9's which were just powered by the HU and they sounded good to me, but now I want to get speakers that will get very loud and stay crisp. I already have a 12" RD Alpha V.2 sub which will be powered @ 1500rms so bass isn't a concern with the speakers. I know there is lots of different reviews on speakers so I am hoping that I can get some opinions from people off of here that can hel…

So yeah...the RCA was being stubborn so I was givin it a firm pull and *POP*, the RCA jack came right off the amp. I'm pissed beyond belief right now, and ordering Knu RCA's as we speak. Pics to come soon.

ok i have a few questions the system is coming along well, but im looking at door speakers. i just got my girl a head unit and zeus door speakers had good reveiws on sonics( i got her some cheap stuff cuz she will be happy with anything i am alot more picky).the watts on the zeus speakers are 500w for the pair? really? there like 60 bucks..i got those for her to see how they sound cuz crescendo audio will not return my calls or e mail.....um did they go under and not tell me? but do the watts rally matter that much i was going to put mine to an amp. also can you lower the ohms like on a sub?....TO SUM UP do the watts matter and ca you lower the ohm is my question.

I used expanding foam in a can to seal off my trunk. I used it around my subwoofer enclosure and in a metal cavity between the rear seats and trunk. I let it dry for over 16 hours. This morning on my way to work I was listening to my audio system for the first time since sealing off my trunk with expanding foam. The difference in sound volume and quality is extremely noticable. After I arrived at work I went to put my rear seats back up and I noticed un-dried expanding foam had seeped out of a metal cavity and dripped on my XCON's cone. I really expected all of the foam to be dy after +16 hours. How should I clean/remove the expanding foam from the XCON cone? I read th…

What do you think about aq subs?

I have a 2011 Mazda 3 and I think my speakers are 5x7's, but from all the reviews i've read, most people say that round speakers are better than ovals, so would a 5" be better than a 5x7? I would like to put 6.5" in my car but I don't know if they would fit or not.

Someone wants to trade me a 1990 240SX for my truck. Was wondering if anyone has really messed around with the audio in one. Curious if its easy to get it to sound good or loud, and how easy or hard it is to take the interior apart for sound dampening. Also, how much room is there? I wouldnt need the rear bench seat, so it could be folded down or taken out all together. Its a fastback hatch, not the coupe. Is it easy or cheap to get a hold of high output alts for them? If I would get it, my SA-10s would be going in it. Possibly add a couple more, or sell them and get 15s. It would be my toy vehicle, so Id be looking for loud, not SQ.

i am currently running a sae-1200dv2 and i have the big three done in my 02 grand prix gtp... i am getting 2 sa-12s and i plan to be getting the sax.100.4 also. i was woundering if the Shuriken SK-BT120 battery will be big enough to run both amps or shuld i just run the 100.4 off the yellow top under the hood?

Now, I don't stalk Steve's videos but i was just looking at one of his videos that he posted up and he explains how his "Clipping Tool" works just like a oscope. I was wondering what you guys thought about this? Personally, i think it's a really cool tool and a great idea. But at the same time i feel like it's Steve Meade just trying to get his name out again and to make more money. Just another ploy really, but it is a valuable tool it seems like. What do you guys think? EDIT: added video

So today I wire my 0 gauge power to my distro block to wire my amp my amp shows power, the remote does not show anything and for a kick i have no power to my sub. I've tried several subs now and nothing happens. I've tried every possible wiring scheme and still absolutely nothing. i am so pissed at AQ unless there is some secret setting in my pioneer I forgot to change that will unleash the power I think I got a bad amp. Is there anything that I may be forgetting or any tips anyone could give to keep me from blowing up on AQ? ;( it's an aq1200d that i'm dealing with and its wired to a RE SX12

First of all this is the equipment ill be talking about. Rockford Fosgate 800.2 old school (the amp that is blowing fuses) Pyle Driver Plad413 (4 channel) Rockford Fosgate Punch HX2 (DVC, 4ohm) ok I wired my subs up for the 2 channel amp like it says to do here, http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_4-ohm_2ch.jpg but that amp kept blowing fuses so in the meantime I am using the pyle 4 channel I bought to drive my regular speakers until the fosgate gets fixed. When i wired in the pyle I left the subs wired for a 2 channel amp but hooked them up to the amp like this http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learning…

I've got a used SSA DCON 10" and alpine mrp-m350 amp. The amp is hooked up to a line out conerter tapped into my rear speakers with the amp recieving power. The sub is wired in parallel and is a dvc 4ohm sub so the amp's output is going to be 2ohms. I've got both sub terminals, negative to negative and positive to positive. The wire connecting the box is connected to ONE terminal...that is correct right? I've checked all the wires again and again yet can't get the sub to do anything. I changed grounds to no avail. I bought a used sub off a member on caraudio.com (lil98cabrio) and am starting to think it's blown, but don't have another sub to test. Is there a way to test…

Anyone have a tl near minot, north dakota?

i have a FI SSD 15, in a 18x18x38 box, tuned to 33hz, i forgot to put the 45's in it. Its pretty loud so i dont think i need the 45's. But is it really worth building another box to put the 45's in?

Ive got an alpine mrp m350 amp that does 350 watts @ 2 ohm and a 4 ohm dvc ssa dcon 10". Im trying to run the sub at around 300-350 watts in parallel at 2 ohms. I want to accurately set my gain and found the equation that you are suppossed to use to find the optimal volts. Voltage = sqrt(rms x impedence) So is this what i would do for my 4 ohm dvc woofer? Voltage = sqrt(300x4ohm) Voltage = sqrt(1,200) Voltage = 35 Or is it this since im running the amp at 2 ohm to a 4 ohm dvc woofer Voltage = sqrt(300x2 ohm) Voltage = sqrt(600) Voltage = 24.5

Right now I have the following: Shitty H/U, replacing that real real soon, but that and my amp are tuned to prevent clipping. Audiopipe AP15001D, 1500W @ 1Ω / 950W @ 2Ω (LINK HERE TO OFFICIAL SITE WITH SPECS) 2 - Fi BL 12 Dual 2Ω Enclosure 2.4 ft³ ported tuned to 32Hz Enclosure 1.5 ft³ ported tuned to 42Hz (41Hz if sub sits ass-out) Horrible 80 amp alternator (It's a 2.4L 4 Cyl Mitsubishi Galant) So with all that, my questions arise: 1. Would it be better to run the one sub at 1500W, or both subs at 475W each @ 2Ω. Keep in mind, that my alt is probably already starving my amp and it most likely isn't pushing out the full 1500w. I also thought about running them @ .5Ω, but…

Hello all. I have a 2002 Ford Ranger Extended Cab truck that I wanted to put a sub-stage in. I'm gonna go ported but what Dcon sub should I get? I'm gonna buy 2 of them. Also, I'm going to buy an amp to run both subs. Here's my questions... 1) Which Dcon subs should I get? DVC or SVC? 2) How big of an enclosure would I need for said sub? What should I tune the enclosure to? Each sub will have it's own box and an external port. 3) What RMS should I run each sub? The final ohm load will b 2 ohms.