General Audio

I’m probably going to be flamed for this but where would I learn how to build my own drivers like SSA and Sundown do? Do they manufacture the surrounds, cone etc themselves or do they outsource most of the parts and assemble them before selling them? I really want to start my own business someday and car audio is my passion and I would LOVE to learn all I can.

Whenever I'm blasting my sub my fuse will blow in less than a minute. I'm running 80amp AGU fuse with 4 gauge wires and a PPI 2200 amp. What could cause this? Is there anyway I can fix this problem? I'm not sure but I think my ground wire is a 8 gauge. Oh and I'm looking to have someone build a custom box for me that involves bending plexi glass.

Going for a two way set-up. I think I can make 8s fit, but it will be a pain in the ass in my little car, if its even necessary haha. But i do want strong midbass, and as for tweets I've always liked them ever so slightly to the aggressive side. I listen to a wide range of metal, from softer stuff to death metal like nile and suffocation. Also I like prog-rock as well as a bit of mainstream stuff too. A bit of rap gets played, but that's mostly when the girl starts playing with the stereo, and she completely unbends my sub and blasts it while shes at it, so something that could take a little bit of abuse would be nice, though obviously nothing is indestructible.... she's …

The story is, i start my car let it idle and warm up. When i start listening music, then car idle drops ? is my system taking that much power so it drops my car idle ? Or how can i fix that problem?

I have been thinking a lot lately :nono and I just might sell the rl-p. I am close to getting a new car (possibly this beauty) and am now tihnking a 15" rl-p is just too much. The box and sub weigh around 100 lbs which is way more than you want in the trunk of a 540. Not to mention I don't want this car to fal apart on me. I could probably sell the rl-p and my box locally for over $400 which would then give me some more money for the car and maybe even a little 12" set up to hold me over for awhile. If i sell my nine1 with it I could probably get $700-750, which would definitely help with some mods (read:updated lights) for the 5er. Maybe I'm crazy, but I am really c…

so i'm riding down the road the other night with a friend at 3am and not a car in sight in my town, and the police drive by. Just to show you how bored the police are in the town, they pull us over, LOL, then tell me that we are not allowed to ride bikes at night with a head light on it! WTF, a headlight on a fuckn bike! And that if they see us out next time i'll get a ticket! LOL anyone got a simular story of small town bored fuckn cops? Ok, i'm done ranting now.lol

Help me out. Anyone do a SPL system in a Tiburon? Just trying to get an idea of the box tuning. The box is for a pair of 12" Fusion Powerplants, each one run by a Fusion Lomu amp. ANy help is appreciated.

I'm currently using two 18in btln2 on an xs8k in a 05 Hyundai Tucson enclosure was design by ram. I demo often with my four doors open and it sound great but there's a problem with loading when my doors are open I loose the deep sounding bass that I love. I'm either going with a ported wall down the center or a 4th order band pass. I'm worried that with the port being so close to the door that I'll have the same problem with loading that's why in considering band pass. New sub will either be the team fi or dc lvl6. So my question is what sub and orientation would best suite me app? If any....lol!

I now have XM Radio; I got the little portable Samsung (Pioneer clone).

does anyone know what grade home depot or lowes MDF is. ive got a few ganahl lumbers and reel lumber by me and they use grade a. ive used the A before and i liked it better and it seemed to be better quality than HD while still bein only $25 a sheet

Subwoofers 2 x RE SX 12 D2 http://reaudio.com/specs.html#sp_sxx 1 x SAZ-3500D or 2 x SAZ-1500D or 2 x Audioque 1200D Headunit 1 x Alpine CDA-9887 Headunit http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=CDA-9887 Mids 2 x SPR-17S http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=SPR-17S〈=en&tab=F 1 x Sundown Audio SAX-100.4D or Audioque AQ4X90 Also looking for a set of good 4x6” for the dash but not sure what brand of layout I should aim for i.e. plate or regular speaker. Battery 1 x XS Power D3100 I only listen to it while I’m driving so the battery should be no problem as far as what I hear. Alternator upgrade will be needed I’m sure. But let me …

Might be a ridiculous question but i'd rather be safe than sorry. Is it an alright idea to mount my amp directly on the top of my box. Never really see it so i figured i'd ask. Just to throw it out there it will be a Sundown SAZ-2000D on a box for a Fi BTL 15". Thanks.

will two kick solo x 18's hit close to 200 db

Hi, I need some tips to reduce vibration noises in Golf Cab 1989... On doors: - I have applyied a vibrational damper to the outer door skin. - I have fitted an absorbent product behind the speakers - I have filled holes with a adhesive damper product - I have applyied a vibrational damper to the inner door skin. Trunk and roofs - I have applyied a vibrational damper and an isolator product. I have done another tasks on trim panels, license plate... using polyurethane foam and urethane seam sealer. On interior body, vibration noises have been halved but I don't know how to reduce the noises prompted by metal framework of top cover. Some idea??? Sorry for my poor english. T…

Today on the ride home from work I was streaming Pandora through my head unit with my Galaxy S4 via aux jack when all speakers but the front left and subs quit playing. I tried music stored on my phone and everything went back to normal. 1st thought was an app issue with Pandora, so I tried Slacker and got the same results. Back to the stored music.... fine again. I then tried streaming both apps through Bluetooth and everything played fine. Wtf could cause this??? If it was a problem within the phone or aux cable, shouldn't the stored music do the same?

I have a question for you all. I found a guy that used to own a car audio shop back in the day. He's got the whole Hifonics VII and VII series. I'm interested in a series VII Zeus. It's hard to find people that will ship to military personnel overseas and he's willing to do this. He wants $700. It's new in box. I remember when I paid $1/watt. Does this still apply for a classic amp that's 20yrs old? I'm not trying to rip this guy off or low ball him but I was thinking $500 - $600 max! Am I being cheap? All inputs are appreciated.

http://www.phoenixgold.com/images/pdfs/PGCAT11_web.pdf Check out the Ti1600.5.

Just got the last of them up. I've got drifting and bikini contest videos that will going up soon as well. Part 2 has most of the good car audio pics. Enjoy. NOPI Nationals Atlanta 2007 - Part I NOPI Nationals Atlanta 2007 - Part II NOPI Nationals Atlanta 2007 - Part III NOPI Nationals Atlanta 2007 - Part IV

when designing a setup, when is it required to have more than 1 battery in the vehicle? If you have an alt capable of supplying the entire demand of current, let's say for a sundown 3000d, would you not need any extra batteries? Extra batteries are more like a voltage stabilizer while the vehicle is running, correct?

Ok, I just bought my new car, a bright red 1993 Volvo 850 GLT with tan leather and a 5 spd. The cars great, but its lacking in the sound department. Ok, I have a MINT condition Alpine CDA-7875 head unit (BBE, V-Drive, etc) that I want in this car, how do I hook it up? I have put this head unit in 4 different cars so far so im not an idiot, but Circuit City told me you couldnt put a head unit in this car without rewiring EVERYTHING in the car due to an internal amp. Now, my 240SX had internal amps and all I did was hook up the remote turn on wire to the one on the HU and it worked great. Anyoen have a wiring diagram? Also, I pulled the Volvo radio out and I cant see how a…

I got a ticket in Missouri for a "Peace Disturbance - Car Stereo from 50+ feet" I've only had the sub for 2 days so i'm pissed but I guess it was my fault, but anyways.. I was wondering how much these tickets usually end up costing? Thanks, and sorry if this is in the wrong forum.

in time when money is abundant (thats right, i dont have money for wood) i will build a new box for my xxx. right now i dont like the way it sits in my car facing upward and you can barely see it because the box is so tall. so to remedy this i will have a more flat box with the sub inverted so there is no mounting depth and to give it more area and also to show off the sexyness of the sub and its entirety. al P.S. what should i tune it to, im thinking along the lines of 28, i want to show everyone a big sub isnt sloppy, maybe even lower.

Originally posted on caraudio.com Well as most of you know, I recently finished the system I have been waiting for forever.... if not look in my sig. But anyway.... I was driving to work today, playing a song at low volume that doesn't have very much bass at all.... and suddenly I hear this horrible "pop" from my trunk. So, I turned the volume down all the way, and about that time, the most godawful sound came out of the subs.... extrememly loud and fart sounding. When I went to check it out... two of them were blown. Anyone who knows me knows that everything was installed correctly... subs wired correctly, gain set to match input voltage, low bass boost setting.... etc …

I have a 98 dodge neon that I was looking to upgrade the sound system on. It is all stock parts except the receiver which was upgraded to a Sony X-plod CDX - GT11W 50W x 4 by the previous owner. I am not all to certain on the size of the speaker, but I think that the doors are 6 1/2 shallow, the rear speakers are 6" x 9", and the middle speaker is a 3 1/2. I don't really know a whole lot about the sound systems of a car, but from what I have read adding an amplifier, upgrading the existing speakers, and utilizing bass blockers would be the main focus. Essentially I am looking for the best possible upgrade in terms of bang for buck. So my question is what parts should I in…

What’s everyone’s experiences? Had numerous small systems but always in older cars. Seen a few posts online from random people and responses are over the place. Some are like its voids all electrical, or just the audio on the car, or the audio and if the dealer says it affected another circuit or system. Just wanting experienced audio enthusiast opinions/ experiences. It’s a 2017 Camry. Wanting to either transfer my existing stuff in( 2 JL12wo in a slot ported wedge box, jl 500.1 and the big3) or upgrade to something bigger. Pair of sa12’s on a 1500.1. Thanks for any info, it’s my first car with a warranty, lol