SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Have a mock up design 6.73cubues net after port and everything wondering if i really need 29inchsa of port per cube or is that oclver kill trying squeeze 7cubes net orafter more ifthe possible. Also running a crescendo 3500bc at 1ohma on strong electrical so ill have the zcon moving displacing a good amount of air. Just a simple port area question dont want waste space .

my current box is 9.99 cubes and tuned to 32hz the problim is my car is peeking at 30hz but i did a 149.5db @28hz at the last meca comp my current box is subs up port back port is 4"x25"x21.5deep 100sqin with 2 18"treo ssx and 2 rd audio 3250.1's can someone give me a direction as what to do to get in the 150xx help with cuft and tuning my box now is exactly to treo's specs it is in a 97 ford probe gt (HATCHBACK)here is a link to my vids so please help me hit a 150.xx thankshairtricks and flex vids please comment if you wish

Id like to get a box done and have a few ideas. Its a silverado crew cab and need a box under the seat. Not sure if I want to go with 2 10s ported or 1 12 ported I wanted to talk to someone who could let me know which would work best. The sub Id like to go with is an RE SEX 10" or a RE SXX 12" or Fi BL 12"

Hello gentlemen and ladies. Here goes my first post... I've been rolling with a 12" Polk SR DVC 4ohms 700RMS2.0cu ft. and had a baby she's just 7 months now, it's pain to carry that monster into the house every time we plan to go shopping with the stroller. Also feels unsafety with the huge box in the back of the hatch with baby on board. Today I was so excited to pickup a SA-8 V2 from a guy locally for $80, when I got there it doesn't seem like the SA-8 V2, so I though it's a V1 so I grab it anyway, came home start building my box, and do my research while waiting for the glue to dry, finally find out that that sucker sold me a E8v2, which i'm planning to get a SA-8, but…

Wassup fellas I built a box for a 18 btl but went with an aq hdc3 18 until Christmas. It is 8 ft3 at 30 hz. My problem is I think this box it too big for the hdc because anything above 40 hz sounds like trash but is a low end monster! also from 25 hz to 40 hz the excursion is the same! It's like the box is too big and it's acting like IB. Can some one help me out ha I want an ok topend instead of the junk I have know! Thanks

a great ssa member put this togather for me.... thank you sir!

I am curious whether or not a 220 Amp alternator would support a Sundown Saz-1500d v.2?

4 IA 187s and two AQ 1200's or 8 Hifonics hifi12d4 and two AQ 1200s, this will be a old car(chevy celebrity type ) and walled. this will be my daily drive

Feb. 7th Glen Burnie, MD Thorshammer is now a 150 trunk! :bigclap:

I started the cuts today, and want to put it together soon, but theres a few things i'm missing. I know i need to pilot the holes, but what size screws? I was thinking 1 5/8" Drywall screws. And for the glue.. should i just use regular carpenter glue/weldbond or something special? Also i read that MDF is porous, so should i seal it? and with what? And someone on a different forum mentioned to do seomthing different for the edges/corners.. .any idea what he meant? 1. 1 5/8" drywall screws? 2. Weldbond/carpenter glue or something else? 3. What kind of sealant if any? (recommendations?) 4. What should i seal edges with? I know its long but thanks for readin.

Which is better for box building liquid nail or wood glue? Any others you would suggest?? Thanks, Matt Cusack

How do i tell if its my sub or my box or my tuning that is making certain notes hit weird like the song run this town by jay z sounds like s**t in my car. Btw i have an L715 in a 4.44 cubic ft internal box tuned to 34hz and it is ran by a kx1200.1 that does 1400 rms. Thanks.

wtf makes it a "nice" or "right" enclosure? like everyone says that my 12" Q will sound amazing in the right box. how the hell do i find "the right" box without building multiple boxes? any suggestions? i just see it everywhere but i don't know where to start on building a good box to get alot out of the sub? i know the obvious, such as size. if iw as to go sealed, wouldn't pretty much any sealed box sound the same? if they were the same cuft that is. and i know theres alot of variables for ported boxes, but how do i know what sounds better then others? i just wonna do it right the first time. i'm currently in a 1.5 cuft sealed enclosure that a local audio shop "custom" b…

alright... so i dont have back speakers any longer... . and long ago a few guys here jimjm5 im not gonna name names told me to drop my rear fill. well now i have a sexy sundown 4 channel and and my front is in need of a filling sound. i listen to rap.... so sq is funny for my goals right... but lets talk about it. im gonna get some http://cgi.ebay.com/6x8-5x7-to-6-Speaker-A...1742.m153.l1262 and some deadener.... open to ideas.

15" Xcon .... Was thinking about going sealed but then the idea of aero ports was brought up and I saw Stef's and loved the look and thought ... "Hey, a sealed enclosure is just a big box.. and a ported with aeros is just some tubing thrown inside of it and cut to the right length for tuning... I can do that.." Should I just do this? I was looking at PrecisionSoundProducts and said I could do this... Not much more work that building a sealed enclosure... Right??? So I looked up on their site for ports calculations and realized after understanding it a bit better that the Torres calculator does it as well... Here is what I come up with and it seem correct... Let me know wh…

Alright, so here it is. I have been looking around and i can't find any topic that talk about building a L port or how to build an L port. I am going to have to do this with my box (unfortunatly) and i would like to see how some of them were done. I have looked all over "SPL & SQ / Fabrication" and "Build Logs" but i can't seem to find it. I found one persons video of him doing it but only the last cut. It would be awesome if i could get some real experience about the "L" port and any tips/tricks. Hopefully this topic will help more people out then just me! I look forward to seeing what you guys have to say!

Ok... In the process of building a new sub enclosure, fibreglass of course. And I am porting it (RL-p 12). Now, I do not want to use a slot port, what options do I have for nice flared ports? What dia should I go with, is 4" large enough? I saw a couple options on partsexpress, wondering if it is possible to use normal plumbing PVC instead of the supplied stuff so that I can get lengths longer than say 17"? I'll try to get pics up on the build, but, me being digicam poor, may not be able to get any up until it is completed (or I go through a complete film on the old-fashioned cam-era).

To burp a sub would I just go wth a bigger amp and turn the gain up and give it a burst for 5 seconds or so?

I tried my hand at making an enclosure with miter joints instead of butt end joints like normal. This is going to make finishing the box 100% easier and take half as much filler (just having to fill the screws). I had always been turned off by the thought of miter joints because every one says they are so "complicated" and the thought that iff i mess up that pice is gone for good. Well now i realize that if you think about what is going on and tripple check its easier than designing a box with butt end joints, best part is if you fudge up a lil it isnt gonna be a big thing to corrct it. Case and point: My first set of 45's where slightly steeper than 45...i realized this…

I am planning on running 2 15" HDC3s (copper) and im either planning on doing a slot port in 8cubic ft tuned to 36hz with 2 AQ2200 OR I've been thinking about doing a wall, about the same size or bigger, tuned to the same (i think) -- I'm thinking the wall will give me more output/power??? - thats what i need to know I have a 86 s15 and this would be my first time for a wall, so i dont have a lot of info/knowlage on walls. -im rushing to go to class, i know im lackin info and mispelled words thanks dom

if you havent seen how small the trunk is on this car, motor trend stated specifically that it was about 7.1 cubes TOTAL! i cant lose the space under the floor because there is no other room for amps/batteries, and i have to leave about 10 inches from the box to the very back of the trunk for tools and etc. with this said, the question is; what is the best design and setup for maximum SPL with keeping it in daily drive limits? i worked up a few partial boxes and havent really made one that pleases me yet. the biggest so far is two seperates (against rear seat, L and R) 1.6 cubes, each for a 12". sub must be on a mild angle toward trunk lid. is this adequate for a sub li…

Hey guys, I am asking for as much input here as I can get. I have everything I need...it's sunny outside..but I am at a hault. OK, I take it back... my HO alt from Iraggi was attempt delivery so i cant pick it up till tomorrow, my 4 AP30001D's should be here any day, my 50 foot spool of 0 gauge, a 40 pack of 0 gauge terminal rings...and Kicker should be shipping back two 4 channels soon as well. Otherwise, i have the van, I have the subs, I have the 3rd 4 channel, 3 AGM batteries..same as Deka Intimidator..I got lots of wood... 2"x6"x8' boards for bracing... gonna make X's inside of squares..should be solid. I have several sheets of 4'x8'x3/4" MDF... I have 4 Extremis 6.…

about 2 months ago I (with the help of M5) set up my first 2 way active system. Since I have lost the rear speakers and I have my sub crossed in at 50 htz with a 18db slope I now have a serious lack of sound from about 60 to 140 htz. The Bostons I had just would make this honorable noise at about 150 htz, just muddy and nasty. So i just got myself a pair of the new Rockford power components and STILL THE SAME PROBLEM what do I do??? I have already put dynamatt in the doors and on the back of the door skins. Do i have to take this thing 3 way in order to get some mid bass?

I've never built a box before so here go. Starting the build tomorrow, are there any changes I need to make?

We will be finishing up on my son's car soon and I have been wanting to wall-up my ride for a while now. I have a '93 T-Bird and I really have no need for the back seat. I have thought about a newer vehicle, but the old bird runs and drives great and I work very close to home. I allready have a pair of Saz-2000 amps and 150' of 1/0 welding cable. I am deciding as I write this about the SA-15 Presale. My thoughts about the wall are as follows: From a rough measurement I have 31-31.5" height 42" width 22-23" depth These measurements should give around 14.75cu' gross I would like a slot port centered with a measurement of about 29.5" high and a width of 6" thats 177" at alm…