SPL & SQ / Fabrication

i had a rockford fosgate t1d415 before and ive been messing around with custom boxes for a little while. i didnt know too much about winisd back then. luckily my first box i built for it played very nice and didnt have any port noise. i tuned it around 34hz if i remember correctly. i loved how low it could get down. i played into the lower/mid 20's (i know i was playing a bit lower than the tuning freq) and loved it. this time around im going to design a box for my fi sp4 15. it should be here any day (i hope) and i'd like to be tuned low. heres my current design for it. can you guys let me know if my design is ok. i know the port is a little skinny but it looks like the …

Hey guys. New to the board here so I hope this isn't a played out topic...... but the only design I can find on SSA's site is for a single sub. Is there one floating around somewhere? The only one I could find on the net was here ----> http://www.*****.com/board/topic/158983-need-a-ported-box-design-for-2-12-ssa-dcons/ Is this a good one to try? I noticed all the youtube vids I've seen with 2 the box looks like the single enclosure design, with the port to the far side of the face. Thanks in advance.

I am building a full system for a friend in her trailblazer and need a little guidance to make sure I'm on the right path. She listens to 90% country music and about 10% classic rock. She likes loud but nothing over the top. I pretty well have the front stage sorted. Deleting rear speakers. Have a pretty head unit picked out lol. Front stage amp is done. Which leaves me with the sub and enclosure. Previous set up she had was a single 10" kicker comp in a sealed enclosure on 300 watts in a trunk. What she did not like about it was the output was a little weak and it lacked the tight impact she was looking for. Her requirements are small footprint and $150 or less. I c…

I recently opened up a tint shop and have had a lot of customers wanting audio, so I just picked up the Sundown line. I've been an installer for 14 yrs now, but all the shops I've worked at did cookie cutter systems with pre-fab boxes so I never really learned how to make a box and match it to the subs. I've built plenty of boxes, so the actual building is not what I'm looking for it's just getting the correct size and port length I need. I see a lot of threads recommending box calculators like torres ect. which I've downloaded, but I don't see how you're converting the sub specs to box design. I found the AJ vented designer program which does this (I'm looking to built m…

this is my first time tooling around with winisd. my fi sp4 should be here any day and i'd like to make sure my box design is okay or if i should tweak it. ive seen port velocity used frequently around here and i was wondering how i can determine port velocity. is it for aeroports only or can port velocity be determined in a L slot port? can someone explain how to find out the port velocity for a L port. and before people start saying, yes i did search around a while on the forum and google and couldnt come up with the answer. thanks!

Hey all, Ever wondered, what weight chop mat should I use? What resin do I need? How much hardener (MEKP) do I need to add to the resin? What is it is hot? What if it is cold? Whats the best way to use fiberglass and add strength to something? Wonder no longer my friends... As i gear up for my door pod build I have been amassing some more fiberglass fabrication products. These products are typical of what you would see in any car audio install that involves fiberglass show I wanted to share them with you, along with an explanation of each and some answers to questions I see repeatedly online! Enjoy! Also, here is a wonderful table that allows you to better un…

This is my first attempt at sealing off my trunk. With the new box forward facing, there is a gap on top that is about 1 inch in height, and gaps on ether side about 2-3 inches. What are some ideas on sealing this off completely and still look somewhat respectable? The rear deck is completely sealed off already. The only sealing that needs done is the gaps between the box and the trunk opening.

I got bored with my Skullcandy's, they sounded like asshole (and still do when not on the amp) but I was wondering, if doubling up on drivers might help the bass response; I split up a few cables and ran them to my HT amp, and they sounded much better, but that is not the kind of thing you can lug around for casual listening; I was thinking of getting two pairs of 50mm drivers and mounting them in place of the existing drivers, to see if a little more area helps; the bass only got good around xmech of the drivers currently in there, tried to get funky and had to back it off to prevent the coils from shredding. Anyone know of a reliable brand of 50mm speakers? I was g…

Total volume = 5.333 (1 inch MDF) Port Volume = 0.64 Tune = 31hz Box dimensions Total Box = 38 x 18 x 18 Port = 3 x 16 x 23 Is this a good design for a ported 15, or two ported 12s? If not, what needs to change? also, could the subs be mounted on the top? Would this effect quality or spl?

Hi guys. I will have some time to hang out next week and wanted to use up all my extra MDF. I wanted to attempt to make a 4th order bandpass to put a couple PWX 10's in there and hook it up to my xbox. I know they are not subwoofers but they are my test speakers. If this box turns out good I will refine my design for a couple of real subs. This is what I have come up with. Each side chamber is 1 ft^3 sealed and the center chamber is 2 ft^3 tuned at 33hz. I have no clue how a 4th order works but this is what I have come up with. If you could explain to me how a 4th order works that might help me design this and also let me know if there is anything I can change to make my …

What makes this enclosure perform any better than a normal forth order enclosure? Or this old style. Just a forth order bandpass?

Would two 6" aero ports be too much for 1 - 15" Xcon? In June I'm looking to fix suspension AND put the bump back in the Camry... Porting it and sealing it from the trunk is the plan ... bow would be about 3.9 cubes with two 6" ports tuned around 33hz.... will be lower power for a while (500w) and later on thinking of going to something better...

I'm in the process of designing an enclosure for my Fi BTL UFO 12. I've drawn up two different designs with the only difference being the way the port is constructed. I've seen it done both ways, but I am unsure which would be most beneficial in my situation. Each design is 2.85ft^3 net tuned to 33hz for a front firing setup sealed from the trunk of a 99 Pontiac Grand Am. Does anyone have any experience/input on which would work best for me as far as loading, port noise etc.?Please use "left design" and "right design" when referencing for clarity as I am unsure what to call each one specifically. Note: I will not be adding any 45's within the port, but each edge will be…

Alright so ive been doing spl for three years now on a team and I just bought two new dd audio digital designs m3b amps strapped on my incriminator audio 18ns and well after playing one song for a short period of time they locked up and burnt the coils are these speakers really true too there power because I was told they could handle 3000 whatts each easy and I dont have the right current going too them I have two 100 batts in back and a heavy duty alt thats running 14.6 volts and drops too 12.8 on lows please help me im beyound frustrated at this point.

Like title says guys i have these subs laying around i dont have dimensions as the car is my gfs and she would like to have some bass in there so instead of having them collect dust and her hatch looks small then might as well throw them in there so im looking for the box to be tuned to 32hz. Mainly listen to rap/hip hop and some light rock. Forgot what else to put in this been a while since i done this alright hope to hear from some knowledgeable people here

In this weeks episode I review how you can create a false wall in order to further complete an install. Using a false wall can allow you to utilize an enclosure that is simple, but yet obtain a finished product that looks very custom and integrated within the vehicle. I would love to know what you think! Thanks for taking the time to watch! (Click the picture for the video) ~Mark

The vehicle is an '89 mustang (hatch). Im wanting to keep the enclosure at right around 10 cubes to keep my imp rise at about one ohm but want a different port placement. it is possible that this may just be a wall but im looking for the best gains, what should i do? the build is with four FI SSd 12's thanks guise.

Im about to be doing an enclosure for 2 12" Memphis m5 subwoofers. . And I cant find enclosure recommendations for them.... been looking on google for a while and cant find a straight answer.. anyone know around how big I should make this? I'm going to be trying to get them behind the 3rd row in an escalade. . Dude has not brought it by yet so not sure if ill be able to fit them yet........., ported by the way

I will be building a box for 2 Sundown E 15s. The subs are dual 4ohm going to wire them to 1ohm on a audiopipe AP10001D. So they will be gettin a little more than rms wattage but I dont see that being a problem. Thats where i need help. I know on Sundowns website they recommend ported 3.0-4.0ft^3 @ 35 hz. What would yall recommend on box size and hz since i will be overpowering a little. Subs are going in a 2005 Silverado crew cab z71. I have the 60/40 sectioned backseat. I will possibly removing the 60 part for box. So pretty much what i need to know is that: ft^3 size/hz level SIngle chamber or dual? Daily application not sure on dimensions of section on backseat but i …

Can anyone make one for me? I'm not very good with sketchup or the cutlist plugin.

currently i have a 2.5cuft box tuned around 33hz with a 1300.1 percision power amp running at 1 ohm. i have just installed a pair of polk components in the front with a powerbass 2ch giving each side about 100rms. so now the sub isnt the main part of my system like it was before when i only had 30rms to the front doors that would get un audible when the sub hit. the idea for the new box is about 4cuft tuned around 28hz or so. my biggest question is how big should my port be? what are the advantages of 12" vs 16" per cube? would 12" be more snappy vs a 16" which would move more air? currently the box is directly behind the drivers seat with the sub and port facing the dr…

Without a good understanding of the proper way to wrap a subwoofer enclosure, applying carpet can be a daunting task. Allow me to solve your problems as I teach you how to rap... er I mean WRAP a sub box! If you enjoy be sure to check out my plethora of other videos! (Click the image for video)

So I decided to make an amp rack. I figured I could make a simple wall cut-out with some simple cardboard templates and a skil saw. I spent the better part of the afternoon doing this. A Crescendo 3500 will go on this rack, I plan to make holes and grommets for all cables. I will put any distribution blocks or speaker terminal bays underside and or speaker connector block thing (Don't know the name). I'll update this as I finish it, and post it in a build log later. Just wanted to share what I did today! It's my first time, far from perfect or even clean looking. But this is a passion and a hobby of mine, and I want to do this all myself and learn from experience. I …

I have designed a box using Torres. Under port dimensions I have entered 33.5 as my length In the calculator it has a Physical Port length of 25. It also states that this will require me to make a bend but at 25 inches In my mind I was looking at it that I will make the two peices of wood a total of 33.5" long. 1. What is the difference? 2. Which should I use to make my cuts with? 3. Am I looking at that incorrectly? I am just confused now.

do aero ports have to be straight or can they have an elbow somewhere in between .. also when designing a box with an aeroport does it need 90 on the edges ?