SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Would two 6" aero ports be too much for 1 - 15" Xcon? In June I'm looking to fix suspension AND put the bump back in the Camry... Porting it and sealing it from the trunk is the plan ... bow would be about 3.9 cubes with two 6" ports tuned around 33hz.... will be lower power for a while (500w) and later on thinking of going to something better...

So I was using this box for my current 12" IDQ sub. The opening was ofcourse cut larger to accept the 12" sub since the box was designed for a 10. Was asking around and the idea was to use this design for my Icon sub that I purchased since I was getting rid of the IDQ. I downloaded the pre-designed enclosures for the Icon and after seeing them, I'm a bit unsure about now using my current box for this sub. Do you guys think the box below would work fine for the Icon? My current box is 1.45 cu ft @ 32hz. I knew it was going to be on the small size, but was told it would work fine. My main problem is space in the trunk of my car. I dont want a huge box and the 12 1/2…

I am building a full system for a friend in her trailblazer and need a little guidance to make sure I'm on the right path. She listens to 90% country music and about 10% classic rock. She likes loud but nothing over the top. I pretty well have the front stage sorted. Deleting rear speakers. Have a pretty head unit picked out lol. Front stage amp is done. Which leaves me with the sub and enclosure. Previous set up she had was a single 10" kicker comp in a sealed enclosure on 300 watts in a trunk. What she did not like about it was the output was a little weak and it lacked the tight impact she was looking for. Her requirements are small footprint and $150 or less. I c…

I'm in the process of designing an enclosure for my Fi BTL UFO 12. I've drawn up two different designs with the only difference being the way the port is constructed. I've seen it done both ways, but I am unsure which would be most beneficial in my situation. Each design is 2.85ft^3 net tuned to 33hz for a front firing setup sealed from the trunk of a 99 Pontiac Grand Am. Does anyone have any experience/input on which would work best for me as far as loading, port noise etc.?Please use "left design" and "right design" when referencing for clarity as I am unsure what to call each one specifically. Note: I will not be adding any 45's within the port, but each edge will be…

Like title says guys i have these subs laying around i dont have dimensions as the car is my gfs and she would like to have some bass in there so instead of having them collect dust and her hatch looks small then might as well throw them in there so im looking for the box to be tuned to 32hz. Mainly listen to rap/hip hop and some light rock. Forgot what else to put in this been a while since i done this alright hope to hear from some knowledgeable people here

The vehicle is an '89 mustang (hatch). Im wanting to keep the enclosure at right around 10 cubes to keep my imp rise at about one ohm but want a different port placement. it is possible that this may just be a wall but im looking for the best gains, what should i do? the build is with four FI SSd 12's thanks guise.

Im about to be doing an enclosure for 2 12" Memphis m5 subwoofers. . And I cant find enclosure recommendations for them.... been looking on google for a while and cant find a straight answer.. anyone know around how big I should make this? I'm going to be trying to get them behind the 3rd row in an escalade. . Dude has not brought it by yet so not sure if ill be able to fit them yet........., ported by the way

I got bored with my Skullcandy's, they sounded like asshole (and still do when not on the amp) but I was wondering, if doubling up on drivers might help the bass response; I split up a few cables and ran them to my HT amp, and they sounded much better, but that is not the kind of thing you can lug around for casual listening; I was thinking of getting two pairs of 50mm drivers and mounting them in place of the existing drivers, to see if a little more area helps; the bass only got good around xmech of the drivers currently in there, tried to get funky and had to back it off to prevent the coils from shredding. Anyone know of a reliable brand of 50mm speakers? I was g…

In this weeks episode I review how you can create a false wall in order to further complete an install. Using a false wall can allow you to utilize an enclosure that is simple, but yet obtain a finished product that looks very custom and integrated within the vehicle. I would love to know what you think! Thanks for taking the time to watch! (Click the picture for the video) ~Mark

As the title states I'm going to replace my whole setup I need help with choosing what to do the new setup will consist of 2 Ssa icon 12's a dc audio 2k and I do not know what size I should have the enclosure at for the subs and only thing that will make it a bit hard for me would be the tuning. I was think tuning to 30hz but that might be stupid to tune it that low for those subs. Thank you for all that help and I don't mind reading links to help me out

Can anyone make one for me? I'm not very good with sketchup or the cutlist plugin.

I will be building a box for 2 Sundown E 15s. The subs are dual 4ohm going to wire them to 1ohm on a audiopipe AP10001D. So they will be gettin a little more than rms wattage but I dont see that being a problem. Thats where i need help. I know on Sundowns website they recommend ported 3.0-4.0ft^3 @ 35 hz. What would yall recommend on box size and hz since i will be overpowering a little. Subs are going in a 2005 Silverado crew cab z71. I have the 60/40 sectioned backseat. I will possibly removing the 60 part for box. So pretty much what i need to know is that: ft^3 size/hz level SIngle chamber or dual? Daily application not sure on dimensions of section on backseat but i …

Without a good understanding of the proper way to wrap a subwoofer enclosure, applying carpet can be a daunting task. Allow me to solve your problems as I teach you how to rap... er I mean WRAP a sub box! If you enjoy be sure to check out my plethora of other videos! (Click the image for video)

So I decided to make an amp rack. I figured I could make a simple wall cut-out with some simple cardboard templates and a skil saw. I spent the better part of the afternoon doing this. A Crescendo 3500 will go on this rack, I plan to make holes and grommets for all cables. I will put any distribution blocks or speaker terminal bays underside and or speaker connector block thing (Don't know the name). I'll update this as I finish it, and post it in a build log later. Just wanted to share what I did today! It's my first time, far from perfect or even clean looking. But this is a passion and a hobby of mine, and I want to do this all myself and learn from experience. I …

Alright so ive been doing spl for three years now on a team and I just bought two new dd audio digital designs m3b amps strapped on my incriminator audio 18ns and well after playing one song for a short period of time they locked up and burnt the coils are these speakers really true too there power because I was told they could handle 3000 whatts each easy and I dont have the right current going too them I have two 100 batts in back and a heavy duty alt thats running 14.6 volts and drops too 12.8 on lows please help me im beyound frustrated at this point.

I have designed a box using Torres. Under port dimensions I have entered 33.5 as my length In the calculator it has a Physical Port length of 25. It also states that this will require me to make a bend but at 25 inches In my mind I was looking at it that I will make the two peices of wood a total of 33.5" long. 1. What is the difference? 2. Which should I use to make my cuts with? 3. Am I looking at that incorrectly? I am just confused now.

currently i have a 2.5cuft box tuned around 33hz with a 1300.1 percision power amp running at 1 ohm. i have just installed a pair of polk components in the front with a powerbass 2ch giving each side about 100rms. so now the sub isnt the main part of my system like it was before when i only had 30rms to the front doors that would get un audible when the sub hit. the idea for the new box is about 4cuft tuned around 28hz or so. my biggest question is how big should my port be? what are the advantages of 12" vs 16" per cube? would 12" be more snappy vs a 16" which would move more air? currently the box is directly behind the drivers seat with the sub and port facing the dr…

do aero ports have to be straight or can they have an elbow somewhere in between .. also when designing a box with an aeroport does it need 90 on the edges ?

alright so I will start building a sub box pretty soon but I have an issue, there is a metal brace on the floor of my car going from one side to the other. can I work around it? or does the box have to be flat one all sides?

My current front stage has visible speakers in the a-pillars and kick panels. Imaging is great, sound stage is deep/wide and often outside the vehicle. I have wondered what it would sound like if the speakers were hidden. Would the sound stage be wider, deeper and even more transparent because I would not be able to visibly localize the speakers? I stumbled across The McGurk Effect. Just to give you an idea of how visible my front stage is. Hmmm..... time to start re-making a-pillars for a hidden install? And carpet over kicks?

The plastic that holds all of the controls for the windows and doors seems to rattle a bit, any ideas on how to stop it? I was thinking some type of small felt tape that you can find at hardware stores.

Hey guys, in this episode I show you how you can take a seemingly normal box, and make it truly custom and one of a kind, and integrate it into your install, and really give your builds a PROFESSIONAL look. Here is the video: The pictures below outline the steps: 1: Laying Out your shapes and ideas: 2: Preparing the shapes for body filler: 3: Applying Body Filler: 4: sanding Bosy Filler: 5: Prepping for Vinyl or Paint: 6: Wrapping the panel and triming: 7: Finished Product: 8: Finished Product: Please comment below or on the video itself, if you enjoyed the video check out my others as well on YouTube. Mark

Going to be making my own port flares.. My dad works at a machine shop and has access to a lathe with will make things easier. He's gonna make me a mold so I can just fibreglass over it to make my flares. Now, I was hoping I could get some help with dimensions of the flare, it's going to be a 10" port, and I need to know what diameter to flare out to, and how deep to make the flare. Iv heard add 4" to the diameter but that could be total BS, but iv got no clue as far as how deep the flare should be.

Vehicle : 2002 Toyota Avalon XLS Location in the vehicle: Trunk with rear armrest access port Space available (Length x Width x Height): 22"x42"x16" Subwoofer make and model: SSA XCON 12 D1 Number of Subwoofers: 1 for now. Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Kerfed would be optimal, Slot if not kerf. What type of music do you like?: Electronic, Drum n Bass, Classic Rock, Alternative, Rap, Hip-Hop, R&B. Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday Music geared towards SQ Tuning Freq (Hz): 28-30 or so Volume : 2.5-3.0 Questions: 1. I plan on only giving about 600-1200w by a Crescendo BC2000D, should I have the volume of the box be closer to 3.0 to maximize effici…

just need to know if anyone could tell me the port lengths inside this box http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-0-FT-3-TUNED-32Hz-SLOT-VENTED-CUSTOM-MDF-SUB-ENCLOSURE-2-10-INCH-SUBS-/400326246337 id rather make the box instead of buying it lol, but if anyone could be so kind to help out thatd be great