SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I will be fiberglassing an enclosure for my SA-15 into the spare tire well, but don't know if it will be happy in a sealed box. I listen mainly to hip hop and occasionally rock, so I want it to hit those low notes with some authority, but seeing as it has such a high F3 I'm not to sure if it will do that. Also seeing everyone else who picks up one of these ports it, I don't want to build a sealed enclosure to find out that it isn't what I want. I'd like to go sealed to make the install easier since it'll be my first time fiberglassing and building a box, and to save a little room and keep the design much simpler as I would like to maintain as much hatch space as I can.

I know some of you would prefer to put a JL w6v2 in a sealed box... (I'd like to go that rout if I had two subs and a powerful enough amp to push them both), but since I just have a single sub and amp I want to build a ported box. I want to make the box wedge shape so I can get the most out of my trunk. I did design a box using a 4in round port, specs: Sub is a single 12" JL audio w6v2 3/4" mdf box external lengths: height= 14.75in width= 26.0in bottom depth= 13.5in Top depth= 8.25 in 4in port, tuned to 32hz Net volume, 1.5 cu. ft. Final internal volume after adding in sub and port displacement ~1.76 cuft. I've been hearing from alot of people that I should make…

whats up, I've had 6 systems in 4 cars, 2 of my cars were hatchback. I had 1 sedan with a sub in the trunk for a year and a half, at that time I was'nt trying to make my system louder, now in my present car I'm on my second system and I want to get louder. but the system is in the trunk. I know no matter what I do it wont be as loud as in a hatchback. Is it possible to make a spl vehicle in a sedan. Are spl numbers as high as 150 achieveable in a trunk? My system is fairly loud now,I hit 137.8 at a local shop with my old system. but that was with 880 watts rms to a 15. I was'nt to impressed cause some guys were hitting 5-10 db more, with nearly the same wattage. I hav…

Build details : 99 Tahoe 6 zv4 15s D1 mega roll cones 2 taramps md 12k’s @ .67 ohms dual 270 alts / 135ah cmax full fiber glass cab, box sealed to cab with fiber glass, stripper pole ect ect I’m torn between a 6th and a 4th order wall with this one. I’m told the zv4 do well in a 4th but really wanted to do a 6th tuned to 25/50hz with 4 6” aero ports in the rear and square port up front The plan is loud and windy however my concern is that I’m estimating to clamp 20k or more out of the amps is my general guess (which could be wrong) and throwing that much power at the subs in a 6th will have them slappin like hell. I plan to under size the…

i pieced together a simple system for a friend of mine and installed everything, only thing left to do is make the box and slap it in there! we both a totall newbs at sub enclosures and already failed miserably at making one for this sub (long story short, it turned out to be a fart box. box is sub forward port back which makes it interchangeable in positions 5 ways which we like a lot) so i need you guys to help us out on a box design/specs, i dont wanna be pushy but we need the specs by tomorrow because he really wants to build a box thats right and hear his sub how it should be already. hes a carpenter so the woodworking skills and tools are all here and ready. the ma…

I am designing my wall in my 95 Lumina, It is a four door Sedan. The wall will go up to the front seats. I was planning on making the port on the drivers side Vertically with two 18's like so On the other hand my father said it would be better to do the port on the top or the bottom with the woofers above the port. Is this true?

I am new to the forum and I am trying to get help on something I just dont seem to be understanding. I have a Ford Explorer and I have two Lethal Injection 12's (4ohm/dvc model). I wanted to see how they sounded sealed, since I couldn't find anyone on the web. Only people asking has anyone done it. They are clean, crisp and loud being pushed with 800watts each. The sound quality is phenominal whether soft, medium or hard hitting. If I open the front doors only, its like a huge ported box turned up using old school SPL comp cd's. The pressure level is unreal for a sealed enclosure. I cannot say enough good things about these speakers. Best investment I made for not a lot …

Well i got my RE comps from the SIN group buy a while back and it has just been these past 4 weekends that i have been working on making some tweeter pods....well actually like 2hrs of work total each day. i am finally up to paint...well here is a look back. Well here is the 2 molds. im not going to go into how to do this because there is already a thread filled with Fiberglass Tutorial Links Stickied. ya i know, the mat wasnt 100% saturated...old resin doesnt like to soak. Streching the fleece glassing the fleece a hole cut i know, not a good mounting andle by any means but we alerady discussed this for like 3 pages in a thread and the RE's have swivle mounts so …

Well heres the plan. Thats the rear window in my cab. thats the front window in the fiberglass camper shell... I plan to take out both windows and run a gasket between the two. I've heard that you use some kinda RV gasket... what is it called? As far as I know I'm going with two IXL-12s and a 2500D. Would 3/4 MDF be thick enough (Rona has no 1").. I didn't check any other stores.

Hey all.I was just wondering if I should get longer aero ports.Right now I have 2 4" PSP aero ports and they are kinda short in my opinion.I wasnt real sure on which way to measure them so I measured them from flare to flare.I was aiming for 35hz for my tuning.The flares right now are 11" long from flare to flare.The tube part is only 5" long and the rest of the length is the flares.Here is my setup info. I have 4 10" DC Audio Level 3 m2's with level 4 upgrades and a dc 5k My box deminsions are 16" Tall x 30" Wide x 23" Deep. So should I lengthen my ports to get more port area or not? Let me know if anymore info is needed please.Thanks

max dimensions are 17"h x 31"w x 27"d i will be running a crescendo bc2000 thinking pretty much the same thing anton miller has setup in his cavi it seems to be really efficient i want to be able to hit the low's really well so im thinking 30hz tuning ? this is what i have come up with so far 27w x 16h x 25d using 3/4 mdf should get me 5 cubes after sub displacement of .14 i should be at 4.72 using a 6" aero tuned to 30hz i need 14.5 inch flared and with port displacement i should be at around 4.5 cubes witch is max recommended for the sa-12's if im doing something wrong please let me no i plan on building tomorrow

Ok... In the process of building a new sub enclosure, fibreglass of course. And I am porting it (RL-p 12). Now, I do not want to use a slot port, what options do I have for nice flared ports? What dia should I go with, is 4" large enough? I saw a couple options on partsexpress, wondering if it is possible to use normal plumbing PVC instead of the supplied stuff so that I can get lengths longer than say 17"? I'll try to get pics up on the build, but, me being digicam poor, may not be able to get any up until it is completed (or I go through a complete film on the old-fashioned cam-era).

I realize this is somewhat subwoofer dependent, but what are the best tuning frequencies for different goals like spl or sq. Also what would be a good way to match a subwoofer to the goals, T/S parameters? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

IM abiut to dig in and start my own center console here in the next few days. Any tips and things to look out for? I want to incorporate this touch panel that ive been working on...also some clean plexi....my tablet and possibly an armrest/compartment for random stuff. Ive seen some awesome stuff on Google....shoot me some info. Thanks!!!

I found a sweet deal on an older model eclipse. I am trying to get a job, but the economy sucks. I also decided, i am going to wait on the lincoln, until i prove to myself that i can treat my car nice, because i just dont trust myself enough yet (i'm clumsy). So for the mean time (and while i save up for insurance, the car and the stereo, i am toying with the idea of building a t-box for the back seat-area and into the hatch. Subs in question are (2) SSA xcon 18's, and a sundown 3500D. i am still deciding on a powermaster battery batteries, but Knu wires and fuses for sure. My goal is a low-end monster, maybe 25-28hz. i would like some of you box-gurus to throw me some po…

Whats up SSA. Im currently in the middle of my full system install and just took out the stock speakers today. My car has stock 6.5 Infinity components in the doors (woofer and tweeter mounted seperately) and it looks like it has a decent speaker mount/baffle whatever it is called. On the inside of the mount it specifies that it is composed of Polycarbonate with 10% Glass Fiber. I will be replacing them with a JBL P660C component system and was wondering if I would have good results using the stock speaker mount to install them. The new speakers are considerably more powerful and I will be sending ~120watts to them, I imagine the stock ones were seeing less than 45. …

So I designed and built my first ported box on my own, and it does not sound like i anticipated. I believe you all can help. The box is for a single 12'' Fi X with 1.6 cuft @ 31.00 Hz. The sub has a 0.1 cuft displacement, and the Fs is 25.7 Hz. I was told to tune a little higher than the Fs. The O.D. of the box is 16 x 14.75 x 21.625 The port is 8 x 2.25 x 27.875. I used WinISD to design the port. I used 11.25 sqft of port area. I was hoping for it to be musical and be able to go from high freq. to low freq. without problems, but it bottoms out easily on the lows and makes mechanical noise on the highs even with my active cross over set to 35 Hz with a 18 DB slope. …

Hey Y'all, im new to this (Forum) well im in the market for some new subs and dont have a big multi thousand dollar budget becouse im only 17 and am working on a farm this summer, well any way i was looking at some Alpine 15"s and was doing some measuring/planning and ive come to realize that i dont have enough or much room in the trunk of my 89' ford thunderbird so im just going to stick with 12's and after seeing/hearing vid's on youtube of the Fi SSD's they sound like some pretty good/stout subs for the money. well i was noticeing that the subs have a rateing of 800 wrms and im guessing the maximum would be around 1,600-1,800 watts but ive been told these subs can hand…

not sure if I should post here or the head unit processing forum so sorry if the wrong place I did a forum search with the word active with no real results I am going to be purchasing a 80prs by pioneer here pretty soon and am very intrigued on what exactly active is does anyone have any good quality sites you could link me to with good information not common rumors or otherwise so I can begin my journey of discovery I don't mean to try and be spoon fed but we all know google isn't the most credible source so I would like to get credible sources from the experts first then after I research those and learn something then I will probably come back to this thread and pick yo…

anyone with the skills necessary to design a simple ported box and looking for a lil extra cash.. please reply.. need a box design ASAP

Id like to get a box done and have a few ideas. Its a silverado crew cab and need a box under the seat. Not sure if I want to go with 2 10s ported or 1 12 ported I wanted to talk to someone who could let me know which would work best. The sub Id like to go with is an RE SEX 10" or a RE SXX 12" or Fi BL 12"

So going from my current setup to something more extravagant should spark your interest. Wanting to go with (4) SA-8 V.2's in a 4th order box with a 2:1 ratio. From what ive gathered so far on reading.. * Speakers facing sealed chamber(better cooling&so you can smell the coils if needed) * 15^3 inches of port area PER cubic feet of sealed chamber * The shorter the port the better * Ported chamber tuned to around 45-50 hz. Here is what ive come up with on Sketchup so far. Sketch is not to scale. Came up with - 2.6^3 feet in ported chamber and... - 1.3^3 feet in sealed chamber. Would love some input or constructive criticism/ advice an…

How does this box look for a SA-8? I listen to mostly hip-hop and r&b and I will be placing forty-five degree cutouts in the corners so the port area stays the same all the way through and sub will be inverted.

I have a desired tuning frequency that I want but I will have two ports...I think. The best example I could find is in the Stealth Avalanche build, basically the same idea he did but in a different vehicle and different subs, bit more air space. Here is what it looks like. As you can see, there is a port with a partition in between. So my question is, how do I figure out what to tune too. Do I tune each port to what I want the tuning to be...do I need to do some calculating and figure it out through equations....I could use some help on this subject. Also how does this type of enclosure work since the port is firing directly in front of the subs? I would assume there …

Picked up a buddies old back not too long ago(Sir-lancelot) he previously had vinly on it and used the carpet spread glue not the spray. My plans are to repaint it glossy black for a ht box with a couple of other changes BUT the glue is so thick and isn't coming off! What would be the best way to remove it back to bare mdf? I been using a heat gun but it will take hours and hours to make a significant progress that way.