SPL & SQ / Fabrication

max dimensions are 17"h x 31"w x 27"d i will be running a crescendo bc2000 thinking pretty much the same thing anton miller has setup in his cavi it seems to be really efficient i want to be able to hit the low's really well so im thinking 30hz tuning ? this is what i have come up with so far 27w x 16h x 25d using 3/4 mdf should get me 5 cubes after sub displacement of .14 i should be at 4.72 using a 6" aero tuned to 30hz i need 14.5 inch flared and with port displacement i should be at around 4.5 cubes witch is max recommended for the sa-12's if im doing something wrong please let me no i plan on building tomorrow

Build details : 99 Tahoe 6 zv4 15s D1 mega roll cones 2 taramps md 12k’s @ .67 ohms dual 270 alts / 135ah cmax full fiber glass cab, box sealed to cab with fiber glass, stripper pole ect ect I’m torn between a 6th and a 4th order wall with this one. I’m told the zv4 do well in a 4th but really wanted to do a 6th tuned to 25/50hz with 4 6” aero ports in the rear and square port up front The plan is loud and windy however my concern is that I’m estimating to clamp 20k or more out of the amps is my general guess (which could be wrong) and throwing that much power at the subs in a 6th will have them slappin like hell. I plan to under size the…

i need to finish out the boxx and wall off the open side where the batterys go

i pieced together a simple system for a friend of mine and installed everything, only thing left to do is make the box and slap it in there! we both a totall newbs at sub enclosures and already failed miserably at making one for this sub (long story short, it turned out to be a fart box. box is sub forward port back which makes it interchangeable in positions 5 ways which we like a lot) so i need you guys to help us out on a box design/specs, i dont wanna be pushy but we need the specs by tomorrow because he really wants to build a box thats right and hear his sub how it should be already. hes a carpenter so the woodworking skills and tools are all here and ready. the ma…

Im having a hell of a time fitting a box into my s10, along time ago i bought a pre fabbed sealed enclosure for 2 12's, downfire design.. fits nicely behind the seats.. well the box is crap and im ready to go ported, i have 2 Re SR12's i built a box for and it was garbage as well.. has anyone built a box for these trucks? mine is a 1998. Im thinking about just going with 1 12" to get an optimal box size. More than likely a Fi BL or Q 12". havent decided yet.. so again if anyone has built for this vehicle or can show me some pictures of what other people do i would appreciate it. Also Im a bigger guy so the seat needs to be as far back as possible (no tilt wheel).

IM abiut to dig in and start my own center console here in the next few days. Any tips and things to look out for? I want to incorporate this touch panel that ive been working on...also some clean plexi....my tablet and possibly an armrest/compartment for random stuff. Ive seen some awesome stuff on Google....shoot me some info. Thanks!!!

I'm down for a few day for recovery from a surgery. So I'm brainstorming about my front stage. 99 2dr blazer is the vehicle. Right now I'm thinking about loading my pillars will multiple full range drivers. Not really looking for super ess que but half assed decent imaging and response. The sub stage is going to be decently loud so I need loud up front. Right now, I'm looking at 3-4 of these per pillar. I really like the look of these too. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-352 Possibly four of these. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=290-226 Then I like the idea of 6 of these in each pillar but I need to make su…

so im pretty new to going to competitions and competting my subs. i was just wondering if only one has any tips or tricks i could use to help gain dbs?? anything will help i just dont want to go in this competition that is coming up and not know something to help me.. i drive a two door tahoe i have 4 12's ppi pcx subs and i was wondering if i folded down my back seat and moved my subs closer to the front would that help (probably a dumd question but you never know until you ask)

Ok... In the process of building a new sub enclosure, fibreglass of course. And I am porting it (RL-p 12). Now, I do not want to use a slot port, what options do I have for nice flared ports? What dia should I go with, is 4" large enough? I saw a couple options on partsexpress, wondering if it is possible to use normal plumbing PVC instead of the supplied stuff so that I can get lengths longer than say 17"? I'll try to get pics up on the build, but, me being digicam poor, may not be able to get any up until it is completed (or I go through a complete film on the old-fashioned cam-era).

Like the topic says!

Id like to get a box done and have a few ideas. Its a silverado crew cab and need a box under the seat. Not sure if I want to go with 2 10s ported or 1 12 ported I wanted to talk to someone who could let me know which would work best. The sub Id like to go with is an RE SEX 10" or a RE SXX 12" or Fi BL 12"

Hey All , so I've got an Termlab , RTA software also included , but there's no mircohpone when I ordered the RTA software it wasnt clear to me I needed te mirophone so I'm missing a piece , I can measure but Termlab selects the laptops own microphone this is FAR from ideal ! so I could order the termlab mic , but I was wondering if there are any preferably cheaper and "as good as" alternatives would Alpines mic work for instance ?

Just trying to get an idea on what kind of screws are best for putting together a big box that is made of 2 sheets of 3/4 MDF stacked. (1 1/2). What about sealer? i know some people use liquid nails, but have heard other people say no way. just maybe some options on this critical piece of high pressure builds.

Okay, sorry I can't upload pics of my fiberglass project right now (I'll try later) but I had a question. The situation -didn't use enough hardner on the fleece and it was still gooey when I came back 24 hrs later. -I tried just smearing plain hardner on the sticky resin and that seemed to work okay -then I made my next batch of resin pretty hot (meaning lots of hardner) and layed two layers of 1.5oz. Now the fiberglass is as stiff as normal and when I stick my hand in the box and move it around I don't get anything wet or sticky, but its still smells like resin really bad (its been dry for 20 hrs) The questions: "how long does resin continue to smell." "Does a complet…

Well heres the plan. Thats the rear window in my cab. thats the front window in the fiberglass camper shell... I plan to take out both windows and run a gasket between the two. I've heard that you use some kinda RV gasket... what is it called? As far as I know I'm going with two IXL-12s and a 2500D. Would 3/4 MDF be thick enough (Rona has no 1").. I didn't check any other stores.

I just got my Fi Q 12" back from getting reconed and now I want to build a ported box. I've never built a ported box and wanted to see if these numbers were right. I downloaded the torres box calculator thing and punched in some numbers that seem to work, but I'm not positive if it's right or not. I have a maximum of 30" W, 15.5" H. Depth has no limit but I'd like to keep it a minimum. I just want a good daily box and was basing this off Fi's recommended 32hz.

not sure if I should post here or the head unit processing forum so sorry if the wrong place I did a forum search with the word active with no real results I am going to be purchasing a 80prs by pioneer here pretty soon and am very intrigued on what exactly active is does anyone have any good quality sites you could link me to with good information not common rumors or otherwise so I can begin my journey of discovery I don't mean to try and be spoon fed but we all know google isn't the most credible source so I would like to get credible sources from the experts first then after I research those and learn something then I will probably come back to this thread and pick yo…

Picked up a buddies old back not too long ago(Sir-lancelot) he previously had vinly on it and used the carpet spread glue not the spray. My plans are to repaint it glossy black for a ht box with a couple of other changes BUT the glue is so thick and isn't coming off! What would be the best way to remove it back to bare mdf? I been using a heat gun but it will take hours and hours to make a significant progress that way.

Let me start by showing what I've done and what I'm trying to finish with... I'm planning on hot gluing wooden dowels to the fiberglass panel up to a wood speaker ring. Then wrap a big piece of cloth around the speaker ring to the back of the fiberglass panel, then stable the cloth around the ring, and glass the cloth, etc. Only problem I'm running into is, when I wrap the cloth around the ring and fiberglass, how do I staple down the cloth, since there won't be any wood to staple into on the back of the fiberglass panel. Could I glue small strips of cardboard to the back of the fiberglass and staple into that? Sorry if I'm confusing.

Hey Y'all, im new to this (Forum) well im in the market for some new subs and dont have a big multi thousand dollar budget becouse im only 17 and am working on a farm this summer, well any way i was looking at some Alpine 15"s and was doing some measuring/planning and ive come to realize that i dont have enough or much room in the trunk of my 89' ford thunderbird so im just going to stick with 12's and after seeing/hearing vid's on youtube of the Fi SSD's they sound like some pretty good/stout subs for the money. well i was noticeing that the subs have a rateing of 800 wrms and im guessing the maximum would be around 1,600-1,800 watts but ive been told these subs can hand…

What I want for my doors is beyond my fabrication capabilities, so I'm considering looking for a fabricator in the chicagoland area to do them up for me. I was hoping you guys could give me an idea of what to expect it to cost, as well as throw me some names of reputable shops. I'm going to have them put 12's in my doors. I'm going to try a two way with the Dayton AMT-Pro's. I'm not opposed to working with someone from the board either! I sent a few emails to places I found on Google, but not many reviews to be seen. Thanks guys.

I know some of you would prefer to put a JL w6v2 in a sealed box... (I'd like to go that rout if I had two subs and a powerful enough amp to push them both), but since I just have a single sub and amp I want to build a ported box. I want to make the box wedge shape so I can get the most out of my trunk. I did design a box using a 4in round port, specs: Sub is a single 12" JL audio w6v2 3/4" mdf box external lengths: height= 14.75in width= 26.0in bottom depth= 13.5in Top depth= 8.25 in 4in port, tuned to 32hz Net volume, 1.5 cu. ft. Final internal volume after adding in sub and port displacement ~1.76 cuft. I've been hearing from alot of people that I should make…

I realize this is somewhat subwoofer dependent, but what are the best tuning frequencies for different goals like spl or sq. Also what would be a good way to match a subwoofer to the goals, T/S parameters? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

Hey guys, I have been talking to a member on here about some calculations I used from BCAE1.com, and something just isnt adding up right.. here is a pic of the box I HAD DESIGNED by a member, so I trust this will work, but I just wanted to enter in the info on BCAE1 to see if they would give me about the same specs.. NOPE....>>>>>>>> This is the box I want to build... but when I put the specs into the BCAE1 site... it tells me to build a 1.3" port... what am I doing wrong here with this program????????? Height? =15 Inches Width? = 39.5 Inches Depth1? =26.5 Inches Depth2? = 26.5 Inches If the above dimensions are OUTSIDE dimensio…

Feb. 7th Glen Burnie, MD Thorshammer is now a 150 trunk! :bigclap: