SPL & SQ / Fabrication

i need to finish out the boxx and wall off the open side where the batterys go

I'm starting a new build for my two DP 21"s in my Expedition, and I'm looking for some ideas. My ideas are in the above poll. Right now I have a subs up, port back setup. Current box is 20 cubes with 300 sq. inches of port at 32Hz. I'm looking at about the same volume and tuning for my wall as well. Possibly tuned a little lower, I loves my lows. The wall will be to the b-pillars. I'm basically looking to get as loud as possible on music, but this is for daily, so it's not going to be a burp monster. All votes, comments, and suggestions are appreciated.

Whats up SSA. Im currently in the middle of my full system install and just took out the stock speakers today. My car has stock 6.5 Infinity components in the doors (woofer and tweeter mounted seperately) and it looks like it has a decent speaker mount/baffle whatever it is called. On the inside of the mount it specifies that it is composed of Polycarbonate with 10% Glass Fiber. I will be replacing them with a JBL P660C component system and was wondering if I would have good results using the stock speaker mount to install them. The new speakers are considerably more powerful and I will be sending ~120watts to them, I imagine the stock ones were seeing less than 45. …

I will be fiberglassing an enclosure for my SA-15 into the spare tire well, but don't know if it will be happy in a sealed box. I listen mainly to hip hop and occasionally rock, so I want it to hit those low notes with some authority, but seeing as it has such a high F3 I'm not to sure if it will do that. Also seeing everyone else who picks up one of these ports it, I don't want to build a sealed enclosure to find out that it isn't what I want. I'd like to go sealed to make the install easier since it'll be my first time fiberglassing and building a box, and to save a little room and keep the design much simpler as I would like to maintain as much hatch space as I can.

I am designing my wall in my 95 Lumina, It is a four door Sedan. The wall will go up to the front seats. I was planning on making the port on the drivers side Vertically with two 18's like so On the other hand my father said it would be better to do the port on the top or the bottom with the woofers above the port. Is this true?

Hey guys, this is the very start of my first diy build, I've never installed a speaker in my life before today! But- I got the co-axial 6x9's into my doors this morning no problem! However, now I have a problem. I have a component set that I was going to run the 6.5's in the back door of my Jeep Grand Cherokee, and I was going to run the tweeters up front in the dash. It just so happens the tweets don't fit in the dash. Should I try mounting them on the back doors somehow? Or a pillar? Here are a few pictures. Any ideas on where to place the tweeters would be much appreciated, I'm fine with not having them next to the 6.5's. I have never worked with fiberglass, and…

Hey guys i was just wondering do you have to break in subwoofers?

Well i got my RE comps from the SIN group buy a while back and it has just been these past 4 weekends that i have been working on making some tweeter pods....well actually like 2hrs of work total each day. i am finally up to paint...well here is a look back. Well here is the 2 molds. im not going to go into how to do this because there is already a thread filled with Fiberglass Tutorial Links Stickied. ya i know, the mat wasnt 100% saturated...old resin doesnt like to soak. Streching the fleece glassing the fleece a hole cut i know, not a good mounting andle by any means but we alerady discussed this for like 3 pages in a thread and the RE's have swivle mounts so …

Build details : 99 Tahoe 6 zv4 15s D1 mega roll cones 2 taramps md 12k’s @ .67 ohms dual 270 alts / 135ah cmax full fiber glass cab, box sealed to cab with fiber glass, stripper pole ect ect I’m torn between a 6th and a 4th order wall with this one. I’m told the zv4 do well in a 4th but really wanted to do a 6th tuned to 25/50hz with 4 6” aero ports in the rear and square port up front The plan is loud and windy however my concern is that I’m estimating to clamp 20k or more out of the amps is my general guess (which could be wrong) and throwing that much power at the subs in a 6th will have them slappin like hell. I plan to under size the…

Ok... In the process of building a new sub enclosure, fibreglass of course. And I am porting it (RL-p 12). Now, I do not want to use a slot port, what options do I have for nice flared ports? What dia should I go with, is 4" large enough? I saw a couple options on partsexpress, wondering if it is possible to use normal plumbing PVC instead of the supplied stuff so that I can get lengths longer than say 17"? I'll try to get pics up on the build, but, me being digicam poor, may not be able to get any up until it is completed (or I go through a complete film on the old-fashioned cam-era).

Over the course of a few years, I've seen many different positioning ways for kick pods. Is there one way that's the best for imaging but due to the different dashboards on vehicles, you see some positioned differently? I'm assuming it also depends what speakers are mounted in the kicks. I'm using exodus ex-anarchys for midbass + midrange. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538 I'm using peerless hds tweets for the highs. http://www.europe-audio.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=5233 Due to the size of my kick panel area and the relatively large mid driver, one of the drivers is going to be slightly tucked under the dash. I'm assuming it's better to "tuck"…

I am new to the forum and I am trying to get help on something I just dont seem to be understanding. I have a Ford Explorer and I have two Lethal Injection 12's (4ohm/dvc model). I wanted to see how they sounded sealed, since I couldn't find anyone on the web. Only people asking has anyone done it. They are clean, crisp and loud being pushed with 800watts each. The sound quality is phenominal whether soft, medium or hard hitting. If I open the front doors only, its like a huge ported box turned up using old school SPL comp cd's. The pressure level is unreal for a sealed enclosure. I cannot say enough good things about these speakers. Best investment I made for not a lot …

anyone with the skills necessary to design a simple ported box and looking for a lil extra cash.. please reply.. need a box design ASAP

I found a sweet deal on an older model eclipse. I am trying to get a job, but the economy sucks. I also decided, i am going to wait on the lincoln, until i prove to myself that i can treat my car nice, because i just dont trust myself enough yet (i'm clumsy). So for the mean time (and while i save up for insurance, the car and the stereo, i am toying with the idea of building a t-box for the back seat-area and into the hatch. Subs in question are (2) SSA xcon 18's, and a sundown 3500D. i am still deciding on a powermaster battery batteries, but Knu wires and fuses for sure. My goal is a low-end monster, maybe 25-28hz. i would like some of you box-gurus to throw me some po…

So I designed and built my first ported box on my own, and it does not sound like i anticipated. I believe you all can help. The box is for a single 12'' Fi X with 1.6 cuft @ 31.00 Hz. The sub has a 0.1 cuft displacement, and the Fs is 25.7 Hz. I was told to tune a little higher than the Fs. The O.D. of the box is 16 x 14.75 x 21.625 The port is 8 x 2.25 x 27.875. I used WinISD to design the port. I used 11.25 sqft of port area. I was hoping for it to be musical and be able to go from high freq. to low freq. without problems, but it bottoms out easily on the lows and makes mechanical noise on the highs even with my active cross over set to 35 Hz with a 18 DB slope. …

I need advice with my current and future setups. Please anyone with lanzar opti1535d experience, please speak up! I currenly have it in a 4.35 cube net Atrend 15lsv enclosure tuned to 36 hz with 48.5 sq in of port area. Its in my ext cab sonoma sub firing up behind drivers seat and port firing to the driver side at the base of the b pillar. Its powered by a Lanzar HTG2600d at 0.6 ohm. Here is the odd part. It metered a 139.9 at 44 hz and when I inverted the sub so the basket/motor was exposed, I then metered a 141.2 at 44 hz. For some reason I was thinking when I metered again I hit a 142.1 but that's likely just wishful thinking. Apart from the airspace change from inve…

As always, I have been running around with ideas for the time when I have the money to actually do something with them. I have a large trunk, however with an extremely small opening to get into the trunk, and so I have always had to restrict the size of any box i intend to build so that i can sqeeze it past that opening. So for my next idea... how would it sound to have a single downfiring 15" ssd in a sealed box? For now it would be recieving only 500 watts rms untill I could upgrade. It would be raised 4 inches off of a wooden base, in a 18"X18"X10.75" box (interior dimensions). I have never seen this done in a trunk so i'm curious about its effects. My goals are a "cl…

Hey Y'all, im new to this (Forum) well im in the market for some new subs and dont have a big multi thousand dollar budget becouse im only 17 and am working on a farm this summer, well any way i was looking at some Alpine 15"s and was doing some measuring/planning and ive come to realize that i dont have enough or much room in the trunk of my 89' ford thunderbird so im just going to stick with 12's and after seeing/hearing vid's on youtube of the Fi SSD's they sound like some pretty good/stout subs for the money. well i was noticeing that the subs have a rateing of 800 wrms and im guessing the maximum would be around 1,600-1,800 watts but ive been told these subs can hand…

I have a desired tuning frequency that I want but I will have two ports...I think. The best example I could find is in the Stealth Avalanche build, basically the same idea he did but in a different vehicle and different subs, bit more air space. Here is what it looks like. As you can see, there is a port with a partition in between. So my question is, how do I figure out what to tune too. Do I tune each port to what I want the tuning to be...do I need to do some calculating and figure it out through equations....I could use some help on this subject. Also how does this type of enclosure work since the port is firing directly in front of the subs? I would assume there …

Hey all.I was just wondering if I should get longer aero ports.Right now I have 2 4" PSP aero ports and they are kinda short in my opinion.I wasnt real sure on which way to measure them so I measured them from flare to flare.I was aiming for 35hz for my tuning.The flares right now are 11" long from flare to flare.The tube part is only 5" long and the rest of the length is the flares.Here is my setup info. I have 4 10" DC Audio Level 3 m2's with level 4 upgrades and a dc 5k My box deminsions are 16" Tall x 30" Wide x 23" Deep. So should I lengthen my ports to get more port area or not? Let me know if anymore info is needed please.Thanks

max dimensions are 17"h x 31"w x 27"d i will be running a crescendo bc2000 thinking pretty much the same thing anton miller has setup in his cavi it seems to be really efficient i want to be able to hit the low's really well so im thinking 30hz tuning ? this is what i have come up with so far 27w x 16h x 25d using 3/4 mdf should get me 5 cubes after sub displacement of .14 i should be at 4.72 using a 6" aero tuned to 30hz i need 14.5 inch flared and with port displacement i should be at around 4.5 cubes witch is max recommended for the sa-12's if im doing something wrong please let me no i plan on building tomorrow

Just trying to get an idea on what kind of screws are best for putting together a big box that is made of 2 sheets of 3/4 MDF stacked. (1 1/2). What about sealer? i know some people use liquid nails, but have heard other people say no way. just maybe some options on this critical piece of high pressure builds.

Id like to get a box done and have a few ideas. Its a silverado crew cab and need a box under the seat. Not sure if I want to go with 2 10s ported or 1 12 ported I wanted to talk to someone who could let me know which would work best. The sub Id like to go with is an RE SEX 10" or a RE SXX 12" or Fi BL 12"

Couple of questions for those that have done blow-throughs. This is the back seat in my Mitsubishi crew cab. If I were to mount my amp on the back of the seat (where the sub box is in the pic), would that restrict the air flow in to the cab when the seat is up? Also, in regards to the tuning theory of building the sealed section, measuring peak and tuning the ported section accordingly - does that work with a blow through? I would have thought if the cut out is smaller than the overall cone area, then it would act as a really high tuned port?

In this episode of "Car Audio Fabrication" I share the proper way to utilize T-Nuts in an install. The advantages of T Nuts are as follows: Screws can be removed several times if you need to access the inside of the enclosure with no worry of srtipping or degrading the thread quality (like what would occur with wood screws into wood)More secure mounting, they cannot be pulled loose from the mounting surface as occurs with wood screws.Other notes: Adding a dab of super glue before securing the t nut to the wood can prevent them from falling into the enclosure before installing. Using a size down from the shank of the t nut for your drill hole allows for a tighter squ…