SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Okay guys hope this is in the right spot! I didnt want to post this in the fabricators thread but anyways here we go. I'm wanting to purchase a box design for 2 12 L7's. The only dimensions that matter is I dont want it over 20 inches tall and over 48 inches wide and 16 deep. I dont want to do a basic slot port or aero tuned port. I'd rather do a TL or something of the sort. All I want to purchase is the design not the box guys. Something cool and out of the ordinary. Thanks in advance guys!

So here it goes I seen a thread where someone used two of these for this but I have lost it and cannot find it. I am interested in doing one of these setups in a sunfire. I have a15" soundsplinter Rlp but don't want to take up the trunk with a large enclosure. The IB setup would leave trunk space and be pretty cheap as far as the woofers go. I have a sundown 1500 SAZ to power them and know I would have to be vergil with gain settings......anyway any input is much appreciated. I have read the thread from Onebadmonte twice now and I think this should work good just looking for extra info before I order the woofers.

Anyone here used plasti dip to finish a box with? If so how'd it hold up and how much area would one can cover? I was looking at some the other day at Lowe's and IIRC it said it was ok to use on wood, but MDF isn't wood.

18in Sx btw . Ok, I got 17.31cuft to mess wt here 43.5x27.5x25. The box is gonna be ported to idk 32 sounds like a good number. Suggestions? It will probably be dual chambered, wt the port on the end. Is that to big or not big enough is my question. It says it only needs 6cuft for sql, so i guess 8cuft for one sub isn't that bad.

I might be buying a jeep wrangler in 6 months after this semester of school. Currently I have a ssd15 and I was looking at the jeep and I don't think I can fit an optimal box for the 15 in there. I was brain storming and I came up with an idea. I would take the rear seats out and make a box for two 12's facing forward with a big old port in between them. And build a seat on top of the box. Now should I recone my 15 into a 12 and buy another? Or should I sell it and buy either 2 sa12's or 2 Fi x12's? I am going to run a precision power bk1300.1D. And a set of Polk db 6.5 components off a power bass xax(400.2?) 100rms at 2 channels. All help and advice is much appreciated. …

I got bored with my Skullcandy's, they sounded like asshole (and still do when not on the amp) but I was wondering, if doubling up on drivers might help the bass response; I split up a few cables and ran them to my HT amp, and they sounded much better, but that is not the kind of thing you can lug around for casual listening; I was thinking of getting two pairs of 50mm drivers and mounting them in place of the existing drivers, to see if a little more area helps; the bass only got good around xmech of the drivers currently in there, tried to get funky and had to back it off to prevent the coils from shredding. Anyone know of a reliable brand of 50mm speakers? I was g…

here in the philippines, there is a 10" challenge for car audio shops.. who ever can make the RE MT10 hit 150+ DB gets another free MT10.. restrictions are: single MT10" on trunk 1amp 1extra battery me and other shop owners tried it.. amp used: AAMP monster 5kw box: tuned @ 45hz wires: guage 0 stinger wires extra bat: stinger SPV70 first the MT10 on the term lab it hit 146.2 we tried the same setup on a FI BL fulloption.. on the term lab it hit 148.6 how did this happen?ö?ö?

So i have been reading on how to calculate the tuning on a box with a kerf. What is a common kerf radius? and how to you cut the wood to become that radius? google isnt really helping me out here. i know there is some extremely good carpenters here that might be able to help me out. how deep do i cute to wood to cause a certain radius. i would like all the input you guys have on kerfing to help me figure it out completely. Thank you.

Ive never built a box that wasn't square all around so this is new to me. I have an angled back plate, so if I angle the port a long with it, the bottom of the port is shorter in length than the top. Which should make the tuning on one side of the port different then the other or how does that work? How do I create a center port like this and have the tuning and airspace I require? These are interior dimensions. I'm sure I'm over thinking this, but I want to stay as close to 13 cubes and 30hz as possible.

Hi guys, I currently run a Fi BTL N2 12" on a Sundown saz 3000 amp. I have no problem with the electrical, even if I know I may not push all the watts this amp can deliver ! My box was designed by Bromo of Eclectic Design (or something like that) : 2.1 ft3 with a slot port (32 hz tuning) firing through the (driver) side. The sub is firing up. The box is well braced too. It sounds good, but I want more output ! I can have another box built easily, and I already own two 4" flared (on both ends) ports. Those ports are in a 3.2 ft3 box used for a Soundstream XXX 15", for now. But I can get it back fast. This box may be too big for the 12" btl. What do you think about it ? I n…

Has anyone done any TL testing with a vehicle before bracing and after bracing? Mainly looking for daily driver type results. I've added sound deadening to my vehicle (2002 volvo v40), in hopes of getting rid of rattles and other annoyances. I haven't applied any treatment to the roof yet. Once I have the subwoofers playing, I'll be able to tell if / how much it needs to be deadened & braced. I'm just toying with the idea of bracing the roof with 1/8" steel strips, bracing door sheet metal, and other flexing panels across the vehicle. So not doing any stripper poles, or bolting shut doors. Just curious if it would be worth it, if there would be an audible increase in …

I am about to get a really good deal on two AA Havoc 12"s soon. And I havent got the room for a full ported box in my truck for two 12s. So heres what i'm doin. I've designed a box which is right around 2.5cuft before driver displacement. Idk how or what role the size of a sealed box plays with output or with quality. The box looks kinda like this. /l Ll It is 36" wide x 22" tall x 10" deep. With the front of the sub having a 45 Degree face starting 12" up the front size. I'll upload a pic in a few to clarify as much as my lil sketches possibly can. Also a double baffle design. Any info or help would be greatly appreciated!!

The SQ of the Qs are great but I want to know want the size and specs of a box that would maximize the dbs on daily music. I would think that the max ported box specs at 32hz would do that but would a smaller box be louder? And I know its "install dependent" but just want to see what others say.

Most vehicles are generally louder with a door open, window down vs the vehicle being sealed right? Depending on the db level is there an inverse effect and a sealed vehicle is louder? Or does it just depend on the frequency as an open door would make the cabin part of the enclosure (4th order?) I know there's different sanctions and different rules among classes, so certain cases I'm assuming the vehicle has to be sealed and can't have any windows/door open. So if my first theory is true, then why do people seal every air leak in their vehicle to gain dbs? Wouldn't they want places for the air to escape (like an open door, just not opened quite as much). OR would this^ b…

alright... so i dont have back speakers any longer... . and long ago a few guys here jimjm5 im not gonna name names told me to drop my rear fill. well now i have a sexy sundown 4 channel and and my front is in need of a filling sound. i listen to rap.... so sq is funny for my goals right... but lets talk about it. im gonna get some http://cgi.ebay.com/6x8-5x7-to-6-Speaker-A...1742.m153.l1262 and some deadener.... open to ideas.

hey guys, i need help making the design for a optimal sealed box for my 2 12's. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/product-information/icon.html\ the problem i have is i have a rather small vehicle and the space the box has to sit in is 33" wide and 18" high but to get it in the tallest it can be is 16" if anyone could build me a diagram or point me in the right direction it would be a HUGE help. thanks in advance, zack

OK as of right now my box this like this. And now I wanna do this to it, if I take 1" out of the top and make it 18" tall it will make the box 7ft^3 net, and now i take 3/4" mdf and put is on the inside of the port and make the port 4.5H by 18.5W and keep it 16.5D It should tune it to 35Hz. The red is the new MDF in the port can I do this and will it work?!?!?

Simple. All anyone would have to do to receive competitor pricing is say "i do local comps". Hell if this were a way to get dealer pricing or even near it EVERYONE would say so. This kind of marketing is not in the companies best interest in any way shape or form. MSRP is where the money is at,.....period. What makes a person a decent candidate? One who actually listens to the questions he has asked. Done his homework, built 3026 different enclosures, pissed off his wife, neglected his kids, spent his college money, given up all hope of daily music, uses a product that can actually "get loud", is prepared to spend 1/4 of what he makes on traveling/admission/equip…

I had a place build me a box and i gave them website to check out the specs, i just wanna make sure everything was done properly before i go ahead and accept this box. fits perfectly in my trunk (he measured before he made it) my subs are still being manufactured... so i have time to correct this if not. any pro response would be appriciated. H 14" x W 32" x D 24" is the overall outside dimensions. im not sure what he tuned the port to. the outside of the port is 12.5"x3" if you need more measurements id be more than happy.

I have a honda accord 99 with a trunk vent (8"x3" slot) behind the paneling on the driver side. I notice the other day that there was a lot of air leaking through there when the bass note hits. Would sealing this up help with spl and is this bad for the car? My box is in the trunk sub and port facing back. Just wanted to know if anyone had this problem and what did you do to it?

about 2 months ago I (with the help of M5) set up my first 2 way active system. Since I have lost the rear speakers and I have my sub crossed in at 50 htz with a 18db slope I now have a serious lack of sound from about 60 to 140 htz. The Bostons I had just would make this honorable noise at about 150 htz, just muddy and nasty. So i just got myself a pair of the new Rockford power components and STILL THE SAME PROBLEM what do I do??? I have already put dynamatt in the doors and on the back of the door skins. Do i have to take this thing 3 way in order to get some mid bass?

I just finished a build on a trans line box, Its a 1/4 wave 33 hz. But i thought i had read some where that 1/2 wave trans lines were better, but impractical for space. so i thought i would make a box with a 1/4 wave at 33 for daily and 1/2 wave at 66 for comps, but from testin the box in my house the box getts really quiet after about 40-45(guesstimation) when using a reasonce test song, so was my idea of a dual purpose box dumb.. and are the only good trans line boxes 1/4 wave boxes?

I've had some crappy 12's (MTX RoadThunder) and a 500 watt Bazooka amp since I was 16. I just got a new job and wanna go big. I have a friend who has a DD 10" (2510 I think) hitting 139 db on music with 700 watts. Even though I have more money to work with, I need to keep it as cheap as possible. I really want a 15 and however many watts it takes to get loud as fuck without blowing the sub. -I was looking at FI Btl but its a little high -I know DD is good -I don't know anything about Incriminator. -people have mentioned RE the only ones of these I've seen in action is DD. This is not an SPL build, just a daily driver that I want to be louder than the crap I have now. …

I am getting ready to build a nice simple sealed enclosure for my 12" Xcon. While im building this, I would like to go ahead and build an amp rack. I want something fairly simple. A false floor with the amps mounted down in the floor would look nice IMO but I need help as to how to start or what to do? this rack is for my 2000 Celica and the two amps are a Kicker 10ZX350.4 and a SAZ-1500. Pics or videos or just advice would be great!