SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I just finished a build on a trans line box, Its a 1/4 wave 33 hz. But i thought i had read some where that 1/2 wave trans lines were better, but impractical for space. so i thought i would make a box with a 1/4 wave at 33 for daily and 1/2 wave at 66 for comps, but from testin the box in my house the box getts really quiet after about 40-45(guesstimation) when using a reasonce test song, so was my idea of a dual purpose box dumb.. and are the only good trans line boxes 1/4 wave boxes?

Vehicle is 2door hardtop jeep wrangler. I'm going to put 4 12" icons in, I can either have the drivers face towards the dash or up, port can face any direction (guessing i'll do rear, but perhaps front would be better for semi wall?). If I have the drivers facing the front towards dash, the box will not be a wall (there'll be ~15 inches on sides and top, around the box). This is what I was envisioning for upfiring, or just rotated and move port for front firing. Also, The box will be directly behind driver and passenger seats, and will have about 15inchs of space from rear of box to tailgate (gotta have some storage )

would fiberglassing the edges of the box help with strength, and would covering the whole box help more, ofcourse inside thanks, and could it be which ever brand or is there a certain brand thats good

So I had a box design done by someone that seems to be a reputable designer around the car audio forums, and I have a couple of questions about it. I have a FI BTL N2 12" D2 running on a SAZ-1500, 250amp alt, 0 ga wire throughout including big 3 and additional grounds throughout the engine compartment, XS Power d975 in the back, Optima yellow top up front. The design he gave me has a net volume of 4 cubes. Is that too big for that one sub? I told him I wanted a daily ground pounder that can kill some lows. Well it does destroy the low notes, but it seems to be pretty weak with the majority of rap/hip-hop songs, and doesn't sound real strong on rock or metal. I know the …

Well im starting to gather all the parts to build an active 3way setup. I know what im getting into and i know its probably far more complicated than im expecting but i love the challenge. I plan to build pods for the midbass and midrange. The tweeters i plan to mold into the factory location on the door pillar say it stages correctly in that location. Im welcome to all suggestions when it comes speaker choice as im still considering lots of options. I tend to like a smoother highend with alot of punch in the midrange if thats of any help. As for budget ill put a max per driver price beside the speaker type. Im not saying these are for sure max but its what im tr…

I will be installing a budget audio system in my 2008 Hyundai Elantra four door. I will be running a three way front stage. I am using Viper Audio 650.2 passive component set. They are metal dome tweeters with 6.5" midrange and crossovers. The tweets are harsh and the 6.5's lack midbass. I picked them up bnib cheap.... I will be using a Boss REV-665 four channel for power. Again got the amp cheap..... Channel 1&2 for the component set and channel 3&4 for 6.5" woofers. Mounting: tweeters in A-pillars aimed at each other, 6.5's midrange in custom kick panels aimed at dome light, 6.5 woofer in bottom of front doors mounted behind factory door panels and aimed at each…

I need some help would u guys recommend a figerglass box and mdf or jus an mdf box I don't know much about mdf an fiberglass boxes it's for an 18" btl

If I do my setup the way I'm thinkin, looks like I can only fit tens. Max diemensions is 34 w X 15 h, I'm pretty certain. I've got the rest of my truck bed in regards to length. I've got a few ideas.. Lemme explain this. First off, these are overhead view of how the box would be. There not to spec or anything, just some ideas. Its not the right diemensions or anythin.. just some ideas how I could fit a few 10s. Would fire into my window. The first one, top left, is a sealed box, kinda based on a clamshell on its side. second one has four subs, and a port in the middle. Bottom is just a ported box with two tens firing into the window (not sure if you could fit two tens an…

Only one sub rite now the other one will be in on Tuesday. Box is 7.1 cubes tuned @ 30hz Hit 144.4 sealed up at 43hz without much testing. 146.7 outlaw.

So, unfortunately i don't think i will be able to get the hight i need for 15s in a regular blow through. i have been looking in doing some sort of bandpass blow through with the chamber firing into the truck from the bed. i have read other posts and things but there seem to be too many different opinions and not facts. Any information for me would be greatly appreciated. I have seemed to be more focused of a 6th order. i like the way its ported inside a port but i do NOT have much knowledge on this so i'm looking forward to learning more about it. Would a bandpass be my best option, if so which one and why? i was looking to do something like this.

what is the best wood glue to use for building boxes i plan on using the gorilla wood glue

I had to get a pic on my cell, only camera I had at the time.

I've been searching on here and the internet about port area. I've seen anywhere from 12"/sqft to 25"/sqft. Some say a smaller PAF will act more like a sealed enclosure and tighter sounding with higher power handling. A larger PAF will act more free air with a higher output at lower frequency but will sound loose and lower power handling. I thought the box had more effect than port area does. Where I'm at now. I have a single v1 sa8 in .63 net tuned at 37hz with 17"/sqft. I'm running a sax1200 at 2ohm gained down to 600wrms (clamped). I like the sound but seems that the output is a little lower than I expected. I really have my eye on the new v2 sa8 and would like t…

Which is better for making the outer part of the kick panels, grill cloth or fleece? I used grill cloth for my tweeter pods. It seemed to work great. I also read that others use fleece.

Going to be making my own port flares.. My dad works at a machine shop and has access to a lathe with will make things easier. He's gonna make me a mold so I can just fibreglass over it to make my flares. Now, I was hoping I could get some help with dimensions of the flare, it's going to be a 10" port, and I need to know what diameter to flare out to, and how deep to make the flare. Iv heard add 4" to the diameter but that could be total BS, but iv got no clue as far as how deep the flare should be.

I was looking around at how I could go about finishing my box. Now this is a 10 cube box, but fully square. Since its MDF I would think it would be hard to paint. So I was searching and came up with four things I may be able to do. Spray/Roll on Bedliner(not sure if it's the same as paint), Carpet Wrap, Fur wrap, or Vinyl Wrap(hardest) Now I have no upholstery expirence so wrapping my be a task, but it looks good when done right that's why it is a option.

i know birch is lighter, less dust. but is there any thing that makes it better then mdf? the guy building my box is pushing me to do birch only charging me 50 bucks extra for it so its not breaking the bank or anything. does it sound better? im sure it will last longer. its for a daily system not after numbers i only meter when i get new stuff to see how much of a difference it made. edit: for bad spelling

So I get through most of the sketch up of a new box and it hits me... My port is 6" wide and where it ends is 6.75" away from the wall of the enclosure. Even though it is more space than the total width of the port, I assume it is close enough that it will effectively create another bend in the port and add more length than I want? It's late, I'm tired, and I think I just wasted the last hour. fml I am curious, at what point does the port end and the perpendicular wall change port length? How close, or far do they need to be?

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5091 I saw this on ROE and couldn't beleive the price! Are these like last years version of the 61i that is currently on the CDT "gold" web site. I remember old CDT eurosport, and only heard them once, I was pretty impressed but it was a 3 way. I just don't have that kind of cash ATM, and won't for a while with all the rest on my build up. Bump if anyone has experience with these? I might jump on this and let the H/U issue wait.. if these are a value anyone want to borrow me another 300 bucks so I can get 2 sets I would hate to miss out on sucha pwn sauce deal if these are in fact good?? lol I'm looking for some…

Hey gusy, im about to start the box build for my sa-12 and im just looking for a little help since its going to be my first real box build. I've came up with a design, but i used the RE box calculator to do so,which i've heard isn't all the accurate, so i was just wondering if someone could check the numbers for me. Heres the dimensions- 24" wide by 14" tall by 15" deep. the port is 2" wide with a length of 16". RE says that the box is 1.72 cubes at 32.8hz with 25in of port. Anybody willing to check this for me? Thanks

So i just bought a new Craftsman plunge router, and i bought a 3/8s bit. Now is there a certain size bit i should use or what. Can someone tell me what they do. do i just have to add half of 3/8s to what ever size im cutting to get what im really cutting. Any help would help

I have a 2 door Acura Integra, which is a rather small car, and I have entered the IASCA SPL comp at Nopi, and I have a few questions about SPL, I've competed before, and even won a few trophies, but I am still rather new and would like to do better this year. First of all I'm debating on which woofer to use, I have a RL-p, which I dont think would be very good for SPL, so I was thinking of buying a Rockford Fosgate Team RF, they're rather expensive, but I hear they're really good for SPL. My debate is this though, I want to have the biggest advantage I can, and the IASCA has the classes set up in inches, which is hugely broad, like anything from one 8 to one 18 can compe…

I haven't seen much on center consol builds and what I have found people seem to frown on them, but my brother has always wanted to build a custom center consol for his truck. Its a 2006 Chevy Silverado extended cab. He now has my old equipment and we are going to start on it. The sub will be a 12" death. It will fit between the two front seats, firing towards the rear of the cab. The center consol will be built all the way to the bottom of the dash, so the required airspace won't be a problem. The only thing I'm really not sure on is how to run the ports. We could build it so that the port either fires towards the driver side/passenger side of the truck, or both. …

ok i built a box the length is 31 inch's with is 21 inch's hight is 17 inch's now i have 1 port comming off each side of of the outer 31 inch walls they are 3by21by22 one port on each side of the outer walls of the 31 inch's iam trying to find what cubic feet i have and what is my box tuned at on hurtz ?? any help would be verry helpfull i dident no i could get so stressed on a speaker box!18 fi btl iswhat i have

Okay, So to find out what Hz my car peaks at, do I try out different test tones to see which one is the loudest in my car? If so, then what do I do from there? Say my car peaks at 37hz...do I tuned my port to 37hz? Reason asking is because I built a 2.5cuft. net @ 32hz enclosure with a 4" aeroport. I can take it out and cut it down for SPL. I just want to do it right since I only have one tube insert left. I'm aiming for SPL, not a fartbox. Thanks!