SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Sound Quality Class Name Score Placed Pro Street 1-600 Natan Budiono 345.00 1 Pro Street 1-600 Mic & Lori Wallace 327.00 2 Pro Street 1-600 Ron Baker 320.80 3 Pro Street 1-600 Todd Gaskell 310.30 4 Pro Street 1-600 Joshua Tech 301.40 5 Pro Street 1-600 Ted Jacobson 295.30 6 Pro Street 1-600 Jim Bishop 286.50 7 Pro Street 1-600 Steven DeBauch 278.70 8 Pro Street 601+ Tony Pasquale II 327.20 1 Pro Street 601+ James Schell 320.70 2 Pro Street 601+ Keith Doney 317.00 3 Pro Street 601+ Chuck Music 313.10 4 Pro Street 601+ Eric Fitzgerald 310.30 5 Pro Street 601+ Rina Beckham 309.90 6 Pro Street 601+ John Smith 301.00 7 Pro Street 601+ Michael Lacher 295.00 …

15" Power HX2 In a 91' Accord. Box is almost 7cubes. I'll post its SPL when we get it on the meter.

Looking for an expert builder to design a subwoofer box for me. Who's a good choice at a decent price?

Have a mock up design 6.73cubues net after port and everything wondering if i really need 29inchsa of port per cube or is that oclver kill trying squeeze 7cubes net orafter more ifthe possible. Also running a crescendo 3500bc at 1ohma on strong electrical so ill have the zcon moving displacing a good amount of air. Just a simple port area question dont want waste space .

a great ssa member put this togather for me.... thank you sir!

Posted this in the hop since there was some vinyl talk this morn, but need some help in figuring out how to finish the vinyl off after it is stretched and glued to the front. There is no place to "staple" the vinyl to the back of the pods so how would you attach it? I have never done this before, but have some really stretchy vinyl and 3M 77 Spray adhesive (and others, but thought this was best). Any recommendations on how to finish or attach the vinyl to the backside of the tweeter pods? As a reference for size the whole is less than 2" and the edges of the pod are about a 1/4". These will be mounted in the stock sail panel locations.

Ok so I sealed up the rear deck of my car, I have the MDF ready to be cut and set into place. My plan is to cut a 2" hole in the MDF to run my RCAs and power wire through, not sure how i can seal that up, any ideas? then im going to cut the speaker holes and mount the subs on the other side. that will be roughly 1" clearance from the back of my seat. I was going to try and find some rubber gasket at home depot to put around the MDF to seal it up to my seat opening surround. Does all of this sound like it will work out? Also im running a pair of boston acoustic g2 12s on my aq1200d for this setup

I'll soon be picking up a second Skar VVX which leaves me to a new box build (: It'll be going in the rear cargo area of a 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee I'd did it tuned somewhere around 33-34Hz and about 5 cubes after displacement Subs up and port back Will be using 3/4 mdf and the top will be a double baffle (2 3/4 pieces) and the subs will be countersunk will be building an amp rack off the back (so facing the front of the car) but that really isnt part of the box design Max dim are 40 wide 25 deep and 20 tall, (pref 15 tall though) Everything I will be running is 2 Skar VVX 15's D4 wired to 1 ohm Concept HPN-1500 (clamped clean at 1100) Big 3 upgrade (to be done when i buil…

Hey guys i know this is a stupid question but when lowes cuts your wood are the cuts pretty straight. And what do they charge per cut? let me know. i've been having a hell of a time getting straight cuts with my saw and a guide clamp... for the most part they are straight but when the box is all assembled there is always a few corners that are off balance...

How do i tell if its my sub or my box or my tuning that is making certain notes hit weird like the song run this town by jay z sounds like s**t in my car. Btw i have an L715 in a 4.44 cubic ft internal box tuned to 34hz and it is ran by a kx1200.1 that does 1400 rms. Thanks.

So I decided to make an amp rack. I figured I could make a simple wall cut-out with some simple cardboard templates and a skil saw. I spent the better part of the afternoon doing this. A Crescendo 3500 will go on this rack, I plan to make holes and grommets for all cables. I will put any distribution blocks or speaker terminal bays underside and or speaker connector block thing (Don't know the name). I'll update this as I finish it, and post it in a build log later. Just wanted to share what I did today! It's my first time, far from perfect or even clean looking. But this is a passion and a hobby of mine, and I want to do this all myself and learn from experience. I …

the back window on my 2000 ford Explorer is Mage Flexxing !!! what can be done to stop the spl from leaking out ???

I am looking to buy some horn drivers from eric stevens just not sure how or where to order them. looking for some help

So I want to build a false floor in the trunk of my Miata, to cover the amps that are sitting in the recessed well of the trunk. Never having done this before, and not too skilled at woodworking, how do I make a template design that conforms to the outlines of the trunk? I know they say to trace it out on cardboard, but how do you get the cardboard pressed up into all the nooks and corners of the trunk so the tracing is accurate, to trace out a line that shows the exact curve or square of the trunk floor? So the final wood floor basically press fits into the corners and walls of the trunk? My thought is to have a floor that covers the entire trunk, with the section cove…

Price completly aside, how much better sound quality would you get with door pods vs components in a fully deadened door? I have a Crown Vic and my main goal is to get the best possible sound out of the components I'm gonna be getting. I'm going with the Image Dynamics XS series components. If I get them in the doors I'm gonna go with stock size 5x7s(XS-57). If I do the pods I'll go with the 6.5s(XS-65). Again my main goal is the sound quality of the comps so if the door pods sound just slightly better, than I'll pass. If the difference is dramatic though, its something I'm really gonna take a look at. I know there are a lot of variables involved in anything like this s…

Not sure how to explain what Im experiencing...but it seems that when running sine wave freq sweeps my system drops out about the 57-63Hz. Very annoying, and cannot seem to find a way to fix. I have 6.5 coponents in the doors (stock locations) and a 15" Xcon ported (tuned to 32Hz), doors have been sound deadened (dynamat,mlv etc) I have tried using different crossover settings (50,63,80,100HZ etc) to separate the sub and components, I have tried letting the sub only play these freqs, tried the components only, tried to EQ (my HU only allows 40,80...) Im just baffled...could this possibly be a Null from my listening position? Maybe the components being too far off axis? E…

I had to get a pic on my cell, only camera I had at the time.

this is ALTONS post "FYI the box is EXACTLY in the middle of the specs Fi gives for the 12" Q's. Fi recommends 1.8 to 2.4cuft as optimal for a 12" Q, 3.6 to 4.8 for two obviously. If you notice the notes I specifically mention 4.2cuft NET which means before displacements, there's nothing wrong with the space I've given for the Q's." and i STEALTH said "actually net means after displacements. gross is before. lol" ALTON said "taken directly from the dictionary buddy: gross    /groʊs/ Show Spelled [grohs] Show IPA adjective,-er, -est, noun,pluralgross for 11, gross·es for 12, 13; verb –adjective1.without deductions; total, as the amount of sales, salary, profit, etc., be…

Hey guys, I'm starting to design my system that I'm going to be putting together this summer. I wanted subs that have """SQL""" type features, which is why I'm thinking the 12" xcons are the best way to go. The box design I have come up with is going to go in my 2002 Hyundai XG350L. I am going to seal it off from the trunk, and have the port coming through where the backseat center armrest folds down. sort of a skipass type thing. I believe that I will be running either a SAZ-3500 or an AQ3500 but I will make the decision when its time to purchase. Let me know what you guys think, weather or not it will work. I don't know if I should put 45's in or not a…

Hello, I'm in need of a box design for a single hdc3.1 18 it's powered with a cab 1600.1 and the max dimensions are 35 long 37 width and 15 tall and would like it to be tuned to 32 hz but any suggestions and would be greatly appreciated!!! I found a website the I messed with and was wonder if this box would fit the specs for the 18???

I want them to pound, but I don't want them to take up all my trunk space, I want the box to be tuned around 32hz, so does anyone have any suggestions?

Please, I know someone out there has a user manual for a 7949. Its all I want for x-mas. If you can just scan me the pages that refer to the units features and fubctions, setup and use. Thanks, Joe. P P.S. I've been searching everywhere forever now Thanks

hey guys, i used the re box calculator to make a box for my 10" fi bl. the box is 1.457 cubes for my sub after port displacement. the port is tuned to 33 hz. it doesnt sound good at all. i followed the cutsheets and everything and there is no leaks in the box that i can find. im just kinda wondering why it doesnt sound good. also, i used 3/4 inch mdf for everything but the baffle and the back. i used 3/4 plywood for that. could that be why it doesnt sound good? please any help would b great. thanx.

What is a good tuning point for a wall in a hatchback with 2 18's ?

Okay, so I had two questions: How does inverting your subwoofers affect SPL/""SQL"" if at all? & How would I go about making one side of my enclosure plexi-glass? (how to secure it to the box) Just asking because I've never done either before and was thinking about one or the other for my next build. Thanks guys!