SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Ok, now, i need someone to DESIGN me a sub enclosure for a FI BTL 15" Ported ~34 hz cant be more than 16.5 in tall, 34 in wide, 18 in deep..... shouldnt need to get that big now.... I love google sketchup, so if someone whipped it up on there, then i would be forever gratefull thanks for anything...

I was simply wondering what is some of the different types of Building Material are the best? I know the word best is subjective, but in this scenerio, weight is not an issue. Of course, I could simply double up on 3/4 MDF, and do some well bracing, I'm aware of that. But I'm also aware that, the material your using can greatly alter the output. Thats the main reason extreme vehicles use concrete. I am not willing to use concrete. I know I said weight is not an issue, but thats a bit much, plus would put me into the extreme class. The reason I'm asking, is because this will be my burp enclosure. I've heard of some competitors using marble, and other hard/rock like materia…

Hello, I'm in need of a box design for a single hdc3.1 18 it's powered with a cab 1600.1 and the max dimensions are 35 long 37 width and 15 tall and would like it to be tuned to 32 hz but any suggestions and would be greatly appreciated!!! I found a website the I messed with and was wonder if this box would fit the specs for the 18???

For years i have had this idea for a box design, i always asked others what they thought of the idea. Well here I am again yrs later wondering if some kid really good at box design would want to put it to the test. this is a totally sealed box design with a tube inside the box 1/4-1/2 of the box volume and same diameter as your drivers mount rim. this tube is just that a tube, a directional enforcer of the sound wave to the back of the full box. I was always told it was a stupid and fruity idea, any you kids wanna play around with it on a computer model and see what happens? maybe I am crazy but the idea to me is it would give a little more crunch on that SPL meter since …

What is a good tuning point for a wall in a hatchback with 2 18's ?

First-the enclosure specs for 15 inch xcons have a standard and optimal size. What are the key differences in the two? Also-I had to sell one of my amps to get through a hard time. My question is, powered by a fosgate t1500bdcp amp, should i run one sub ported at 2 ohm or both of them sealed at 1 ohm?

i was surfing around another sight and seen a post of a fellar wanting to check his design on a port. he was told a length by the guy , and drafted the port out accordingly. the port he presented is the exacrt length he was told. i was just thrown off by this because it is a slot port, and i thought that the end correction should of been factored in. i was told it wasn't. so does the end correction not always factor into a port design? the port folded so it was so it was not on the exterior wall, but ended inside the box along the adjacent port wall. thanks for the help. just wanting to ensure i am equiped with the right info. chop edit.... the length given was to be 26…

Hey, I am looking to build an enclosure for one Sundown E-12 in the near future. I plan on putting it into a 2.5 cubic foot enclosure. (PWK recommends an enclosure for the E-12 of at least 60L (~2.1 cu ft) for a more linear response) I also want to use a 4" aeroport (precision port) 10.25 inches long for a tuning of 32 Hz. I think my question is, would it be alright to tune this box to 30 Hz? All it would require is 12 of port length compared to the ten and a quarter. I'm just slightly confused because I have heard not to tune too far below a subs res. freq. because it might cause roll-off right at the tuning. If it sounds stupid, that's because I read it once somewhere o…

Which is better for box building liquid nail or wood glue? Any others you would suggest?? Thanks, Matt Cusack

hey guys, i know i have a thread already about this topic, but that was for my ranger. i now have a 2002 f150 ext. cab and my zcon is on its way so i want to start building a box. i took some measurements tonight and i have up to 6 cubes to play with here. i want ported obviously tuned to aorund 34Hz? i love my lows deep and loud haha. i will have it getting 2300 watts from my aq3500 and yes i have the electrical to back it up with no problem. now, how many cubes do you guys suggest i should go for with this kind of power, and the tuning i want? i will have the sub and port up unless told otherwise. let me know what you guys think!!

Price completly aside, how much better sound quality would you get with door pods vs components in a fully deadened door? I have a Crown Vic and my main goal is to get the best possible sound out of the components I'm gonna be getting. I'm going with the Image Dynamics XS series components. If I get them in the doors I'm gonna go with stock size 5x7s(XS-57). If I do the pods I'll go with the 6.5s(XS-65). Again my main goal is the sound quality of the comps so if the door pods sound just slightly better, than I'll pass. If the difference is dramatic though, its something I'm really gonna take a look at. I know there are a lot of variables involved in anything like this s…

I am working with a new AS1 competitor trying to get them a really nice score this season. Basically, rules are as follows- System must reside in trunk only, car MUST be off and play a song only. Well, he currently did a 140.2 with 2 Fi SSD 10s and an audiopipe 3000w using a 35A fuse. This is my theory- Because MECA's classes are limited on fuses + cone area.. and cone area and power go hand in hand with each other... as long as the space is there... more cone area and less power "should" result in a higher pressure output. He was able to pull just over 100A off that 35A fuse to get his score. We aren't restricted on cone area but cone area + fusing x 10 cannot surpass 55…

a great ssa member put this togather for me.... thank you sir!

Thanks in advance for the help. Alright I am planning on getting a 12" Fi Q D2 and already ordered a sundown SAZ-1000D to power it. I've never built a box before and I dont trust the audio shop here. I want to build a L shaped ported box. Its going in a 1997 chevy blazer so I have room. First should I go sub up port back or sub back port back? What are the benefits of each keep in mind I'm not going for spl. According to Fi "Ported box we recommend using 1.8-2.5 cubic feet @ 28-33Hz (I personally think that a 32hz tuning is optimal, and has the most output and is still the most musical daily driving). Use 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume." So I…

Have a mock up design 6.73cubues net after port and everything wondering if i really need 29inchsa of port per cube or is that oclver kill trying squeeze 7cubes net orafter more ifthe possible. Also running a crescendo 3500bc at 1ohma on strong electrical so ill have the zcon moving displacing a good amount of air. Just a simple port area question dont want waste space .

Ok so I sealed up the rear deck of my car, I have the MDF ready to be cut and set into place. My plan is to cut a 2" hole in the MDF to run my RCAs and power wire through, not sure how i can seal that up, any ideas? then im going to cut the speaker holes and mount the subs on the other side. that will be roughly 1" clearance from the back of my seat. I was going to try and find some rubber gasket at home depot to put around the MDF to seal it up to my seat opening surround. Does all of this sound like it will work out? Also im running a pair of boston acoustic g2 12s on my aq1200d for this setup

I'm going to be building a small aero ported box for a friend soon, but he doesn't want to spend the extra few dollars to buy real aero's. He wants to go with just straight PVC pipe instead. Yes, I explained port noise and the advantages of having flared ports. Anyway, what's the best way to mount PVC pipe externally on a box? There's no flare to screw into the wood, only a straight pipe to sit inside the cutout. I'm having trouble trying to figure out the most stable and secure way of attaching the PVC. Thoughts?

I want to have a smaller sub for when I travel or haul things. I currently have a 4 cu ft box with an re sx15 firing up and port back. It doesn't leave me much storage room in the back. Since I can't stack anything on top of the box, or by the port. So I'm thinking about a downfiring rear firing box for one Skar vvx12. It would be on the drivers side. Aprox 14" wide, 13" tall, and 27" long, with 4-5" feet on the bottom. The port would be about 4" off my hatch. I'm thinking about a slot port 2" high and 12.5" wide. Net volume 1.7 tuned to 32 hz. This is for daily listening at reasonable volumes. I'm looking for a 5-600 watt amp to run it off of. How much room should I ha…

Anyone know of of a snug fitting dual sub box that'll fit in back of the second seats? Im taking out far back seats want to leave middle seats. Only wanting to do dual 15" subs. Should they be enclosed also?

Not sure how to explain what Im experiencing...but it seems that when running sine wave freq sweeps my system drops out about the 57-63Hz. Very annoying, and cannot seem to find a way to fix. I have 6.5 coponents in the doors (stock locations) and a 15" Xcon ported (tuned to 32Hz), doors have been sound deadened (dynamat,mlv etc) I have tried using different crossover settings (50,63,80,100HZ etc) to separate the sub and components, I have tried letting the sub only play these freqs, tried the components only, tried to EQ (my HU only allows 40,80...) Im just baffled...could this possibly be a Null from my listening position? Maybe the components being too far off axis? E…

Okay, So to find out what Hz my car peaks at, do I try out different test tones to see which one is the loudest in my car? If so, then what do I do from there? Say my car peaks at 37hz...do I tuned my port to 37hz? Reason asking is because I built a 2.5cuft. net @ 32hz enclosure with a 4" aeroport. I can take it out and cut it down for SPL. I just want to do it right since I only have one tube insert left. I'm aiming for SPL, not a fartbox. Thanks!

when setting your gains on amps why cant you turn them all the way up. and if you have them less then half way are you still getting the rated power of the amp. say if the amp is 1000w RMS are you getting that no matter what the gains are set too..... jamie

The Box design i used from a guy from SMD didnt pan out so well, i honestly think the port length was longer than in my plan.... It sounds like it tuned to 42hz instead of 32hz. That being said im hoping SSA forum can help!! Keep in mind id really like to keep the box either as wide and shallow or flat/wide/deep as possible. Basically im trying to fit the golf clubs in the back, either in front of the box, or on top. 12" Fi Q on ~1600RMS tuned to 30ish hz. thanks for the help fellas/ladies

Well, I have finally started my SQ system in my 98 Saturn. Since I have since sold my RX-7 I needed a new host vehicle. Here is what I have done and what is in store. Done so far: double layer of e-dead sound dampening on all 4 doors deck installed is a Pioneer Premier DEH-550MP front components are Focal Polykevlar 165K2 interconnects are all Knu Conceptz Equalizer is a Phoenix Gold 30 band EQ with balanced line driver amp for comps is an older US amps USA 150 Power wire is Memphis 0 guage Left to do: install sub (Hart Pro 12) install crossover (Sony XEC-100) install line driver (RW AUdio 6.8"msburp" installk sub amp (maybe old US Amps USA 100 Well, will keep everyone p…

this is ALTONS post "FYI the box is EXACTLY in the middle of the specs Fi gives for the 12" Q's. Fi recommends 1.8 to 2.4cuft as optimal for a 12" Q, 3.6 to 4.8 for two obviously. If you notice the notes I specifically mention 4.2cuft NET which means before displacements, there's nothing wrong with the space I've given for the Q's." and i STEALTH said "actually net means after displacements. gross is before. lol" ALTON said "taken directly from the dictionary buddy: gross    /groʊs/ Show Spelled [grohs] Show IPA adjective,-er, -est, noun,pluralgross for 11, gross·es for 12, 13; verb –adjective1.without deductions; total, as the amount of sales, salary, profit, etc., be…