SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I need to know what the best size box would be for a JL 13w7 for spl. I have always heard most manufacturers give smaller then optimal size requirements just to sell subs and to lower power handling so they have less warranty claims. Looking for anybody who has experience with these subs who can tell me what's the best cubic feet to get the max out of these subs. I'm running them off the JL HD1200/1's in a 2013 Dodge Avenger R/T. Pretty big trunk just small opening may have to build box in place. I want to run ported for more output but still be musical. Also need to know tuning.

New high for music out of the GP 148.3 30 sec avg pr of 10's! :clap: 150+ playin music comin to a lane near you! I workn on becoming the only Trunk vehicle in the states runnin n the 149.9 class with a tiny pr. of 10's!

I'm considering the soundqubed hdc4 15. I'm not sure what order this is, or anything like that as i am a complete noob to building a box to specs. I've built more than a hundred enclosures in my life, but never one to exact measurements. they've always sounded good. in fact, I've had people ask how many 15's i had, when it was just 1 12. I've blown 2-12's & 2-15's out of the water with just 1 12 on multiple occasions. different boxes, cars, subs, etc... now onto my question. i plan on making the top of the enclosure 6" away from the sub. of course the port is going to be around 4x8 or 10 but i was wondering if 6" is enough room for that sub. the enclosure is 40x18x1…

What are the differences between the alignments QB3 Quasi-butterworth, BB4/SBB4 (Super-)boom box, C4/SC4 (Sub-)Chebyshev, EBS3 extended bass shelf -3 dB, and EBS6 extended bass shelf -6dB when using WinISD?

Just got this bad boy in today, from Fatbox USA...I must say it is the best box I've ever seen built and was done by the head owner of Fatbox himself and is signed by him for me! Not only is it VERY well built, and stunningly BEAUTIFUL, It is a BEAST at 100lbs!!! ALL 1" industrial MDF made in USA with a 2" front panel!!

I am starting a build for a friend of mine. His goals are a decent amount of bass in a removable package. This will be installed in late model 4-runner. After talking with Brian (BKOLFO4) about some different single driver solutions that would have good output he suggested a single Mayhem 15, and well, kind of going to take his word for it. As for power, I bought a single Cresendo 3500, should be plenty of power. The 4-runner has a decent factory stereo (Nav and all that crap) so we wanted to keep what we could. I picked up one of the new Audio Control LC2i: http://www.audiocont...ol----LC2i.html because I am sick of PAC Trunk LOCs. They are POS's that are nothing b…

4 - 15" SoundStream T4 subs No. of Drivers = 4 Mounting = Standard Wiring = Parallel Dual voice coils = parallel Fs = 34 Hz Qms = 3.722 Vas = 2.075 cu.ft Xmax = 0.551 in Xmech = 0.827 in Qes = 0.449 Re = 0.417 ohm Z = 0.5 ohm Pe = 1000 watts Qts = 0.401 no = 0.496 % 1-W SPL = 89.1 dB 2.83-V SPL = 97 dB ----------------------------------------- Box Properties Name: Type: Vented Box Shape: Prism, square Vb = 15.76 cu.ft Fb = 34.5 Hz F3 = 30.77 Hz Fill = none No. of Vents = 1 Vent shape = rectangle Vent ends = one flush Hv = 34.5 in Wv = 7.75 in Lv = 28.83 in

I posted this over on SMD, I figured I'd put it up here as well. So I've been wanting to experiment with a series tuned 6th order bandpass design for quite a while. A conversation I've been having with another SMD member has finally motivated me to proceed with this experiment. First a little background. You don't see a lot of series tuned BP6 boxes out there and there is even less information on how to design them. What I have been able to find has mostly been conflicting information as to if and how the tunings for the different chambers interact with each other. Some info said they don't interact all all, some said the rear chamber will be tuned lower than …

i dont wanna be rude... but.. im in kinda of a hurry... and im looking to hear from people who have tryed diffrent firing directions in a trunked car... sub up port up..... up into my trunk lid... there is only 5 inches of space above the box before the lid. sub back port up.... same thing 5 inches at the most before the trunk lid... but i may be more air to the cabin. sub back port back..... thats what i have now... but im passenger side ported and thinking of going center port. i have talked to a man that i know has the skills to make blue prints. hes talking center port,, smooth cornors, double wood all over! thanks guys, o yeah my trunk

Hi guys new to the forum ,not new to car audio .I need help with my truck ,I want it to have slamming bass.The problem is not much room so I changed to buckets to allow for a console box. I have a t line with a sundown 6.5 and it is ok.I'm giving it 300rms but it's not doing what I want.I'm going to build a new box and have measurements of space for the new box. I'm planning on using a c.t sounds 900.1 amp for the new setup.The measurements are 10=h 32=l 9=w inches. Which box builder said 1.09 cubic feet ? I was thinking 2 8 soundqubed hs08, 2 D.C. 8s,sundown x-8 or ? Any help would be appreciated I planned on ported enclosure.

would fiberglassing the edges of the box help with strength, and would covering the whole box help more, ofcourse inside thanks, and could it be which ever brand or is there a certain brand thats good

i compete in 2 different Forums http://tbp.20m.com/ and http://soundandimage.20m.com/ i have i copied this from e-mail with Team SoundStream: When you decide to compete in a much broader area maybe we can discuss the possibility of a sponsorship. But as long as you keep your competition to a local area then there isn

Saw it on a few different threads over the interwebs. Alan Hall did a 160.2 at a 3x usaci meet. He's running two 15" Tantric HDD's and two RD D9 amplifiers. Damn Great score.

Am trying to figure out the port area for round ports in my design. Am going to build an enclosure that is 4 cu.ft. after all displacement turned to 30Hz for a 15" Fi Q. I know that for a slot port, that its length X width to calculate port area (i.e 14 X 4 = 56 sq.in. of port). I also know that for a round port, that its Phi X radius sq. to calculate port area (i.e 3.142X4 for a 4" pipe = 12.568 sq.in of port). This is what am not understanding is, to get the needed port area for using 4" port in a 4 cu.ft. enclosure, you would need about 4 or 5 of them, or am i just full speed down the wrong side of the track? I was going to use a slot port but decided that it would ea…

I have a 12" fi Q that is fully loaded, except there is no extra spider option, and no high qts option. I also have a Sundown SCV-2000d, big 3, XS Power d3400, and an XS Power XP950 in the trunk for power. I figure after all losses/drops I should be getting around 1700w rms of clean power to the sub. For mide I have 2x 6.5" Sundown Neo Pro V2's and some Image Dynamics CTX65SC's for components up front. Hopefully having some dedicated mid bass drivers will work well with a bandpass enclosure, so that I can tune that to hit the low notes and roll off right into where the Neo Pro's will take over. Lastly, It is being installed in a 2013 Subaru WRX. After some deliberation I…

so im planning on building a wall in my civic soon just want some tips... how do i calculate the box when theirs curves i have to go around... also should i have the port on the top or the bottom of the wall ?? also does each sub need its own chamber ?? i have 2 18s so does the wall need a piece in the middle to seperate the subs ?

I've built quite a few boxes over the last few years, and they've all been with screws. However, I have the opportunity of getting a brad nailer (either a Hitachi or Porter and Cable) for free. It seems like brad nailing would make things go a lot faster, but I have no experience with them. I was wondering which you guys prefer, and why?

what are the best bolts to use as terminals on a subwoofer box, and where can it be found thanks

I would like to know what is the most accurate way to calculate QTC of a sealed enclosure. For example in WinISD i have the specs for my speaker in there and in a 1.2ft^3 it gives me a QTC of .704 In BBP6 with a 1.2ft^3 enclosure it gives me a QTC of .56 And Calculating it from the formulas on these two sites. http://www.diysubwoofers.org/sld/sealed1.htm http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=29 They give me a QTC of .62 with a 1.2ft^3 enclosure. So I would like to know which way is right?

Looking ~15^3 after displacement with 18.5 x 9 slot port on driverside tuned ~34hz since it will be at B pillar. Had talks about tuning it higher since it will b pillar (midgate) and will go lower anyway in Hz's. Also to do center ports with separate chambers instead. Will be running a Memphis Mojo 4kw and have upgraded my electrical. Looking more at a daily setup and a shared chamber with slot or separate chambers.

i bought a 4th order box from someone and i want to make the port bigger but not sure how much port area i should have. i was told by a couple people that for a 4th order i should have around 20 square inches per cubic foot of the ported section. the ported section of the box is 13 cubes so i figured 9" x 29" would give me 261" of port which would be 20" per cube. right now i only have 198" of port which puts it at just over 15" per cube. im not sure if this is the correct way to do it so i was hoping someone on here could help me out with this thanks.

Ok, i thought i had tested enough as to how exactly i am going to build and face my box but maybe i'm wrong so i'm going to buy this meter - http://cgi.ebay.com/186-db-SPL-SOUND-LEVEL...1QQcmdZViewItem They say that it is calibrated just like some other top of the lines including the new Termlab sensors. I would buy a TL but not for the price they want for just building the best box for my money. All you do with this thing is hook it up to a DMM and the voltage it outputs, you look at this chart to see your Db reading. It is accurate down to 1\1000th of a volt AND Db so that's interesting. The slightest change can be detected which is great. So, here in the near future…

This is my first attempt at sealing off my trunk. With the new box forward facing, there is a gap on top that is about 1 inch in height, and gaps on ether side about 2-3 inches. What are some ideas on sealing this off completely and still look somewhat respectable? The rear deck is completely sealed off already. The only sealing that needs done is the gaps between the box and the trunk opening.

Well, here are the components to the dream build. Just finished the last one up last night. (2) RE XXX 12" OEM coil 1 stiff, 1 soft spiders Original full face dust caps Amps MMATS HD4000.1 MMATS SQ4100 Speakers: (2) Sets of Infinity Kappa 6.5 components Electrical: Singer 250A 3 runs 2/0 Duralast platinum(front) (still needing rear batteries) Vehicle: '04 Pontiac Grand prix Enclosure talk: I have experience with this driver in different sizes, and had always had good results with the enclosures for them. Haven't done a multiple woofer set-up for almost a decade, but this is what I was thinking.. 4.5 cu. ft. L port, double baffle, window bracing, 45s Go…

what is the difference between the two? sub would be a 12" FI BL in a 2.5 CuFt box with about 1200 watts. would i save room with the round port? i forgot the tuning, 33Hz