SPL & SQ / Fabrication
Calculations, Concepts, Designs, Theories. All General SPL Or SQ Questions Can Be Discussed Here.
2,714 topics in this forum
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I am building a box for 2 SA-12's for the trunk of my altima. I want to have a square port between the 2 subs on the front of the box, looking somewhat like this: O | O sub port sub Using 3/4" MDF and outside dimensions, my box's height can only have ~ a height of 16.5", a width of 33", and a depth of 16.5" (however, the depth can be altered a good bit if needed) I need to know what dimensions to make the port and the dimensions of the box itself if anyone could help. Thanks.
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Hey guys, a friend of mine is looking to install his Tymphany Lat 700 in his Chevy Astro. Currently I'm looking at 40x21.5x10 with 2 3" ports. Length of 15" for the ports tuned to 24Hz. Torres says this is correct. It's mainly a show piece, and he wants to get it moving. Can anyone help me out with a box design or recommendations? It's kind of an odd driver(s) http://www.tymphany.com/files/resources/dlat/LAT700-001.pdf Sub will be used on music not Home Theater
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I was installing a simple Hu in a 2006 Sonata and the four screws that hold the oem radio in WILL NOT turn. I can usually do it with my trusty screwdriver but no luck. So I got out our 14.4v Black & Decker with a mostly charged battery and it couldn't turn them either. My dad says I need to drill them out but I'm not sure how to to that. They're semi-stripped now too so yeah. Any help would be appreciated.
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I am wanting to add more low end to my truck and I think I have decided to do a rear console. But I dont know which way to fire the sub or subs. The box will be roughly 2.4cu and is 14x28x14. This is going in a 07 Harley F250. Here is a few pics of a cardboard make up box. So should I do one 12 rear facing and ported or do 2 10's or 2 12's down firing sealed? If I do a down firing box it will need to come up 2-3 inches so it would be alittle higher than pics. The box will be black carpet to match. Looking for hard hitting low clean bass. I could maybe get another .5 if I slope the front and bring it down. Looking at either SA-10's 12"s or SSA Dcon or ICONS and a SA-1500…
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I remember talking to shizz and a few other box builders on here and they all said "if the box is built well enough, no bracing is needed". Well is this true? I am working on a new box for my 15" - 38"w, 18"d, 16"h. I dont think I need bracing for a single 15" in that box, but I could be wrong (its a little oer 4.5 cuFt with port tuned to 32hz). I have been looking at other posts for people building their box and its either hit or miss for who does what with bracing. The one I just finished looking at is using bracing for a smaller box so once again, I am not sure. Forgot to add in - I will be putting a DC Level 5 15" in the box being powered by a 3500D
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So heres the deal I need someone to design a Transmission Line for one of my ICONS!! I have decided I want to start playing with a variety of different boxes. It will be a single 12in Icon or we could even do a Horn design which ever fits lol. It will be in my Hatch! So whos up for the challange I can get you Dims... I could also shoot you $5 dollars via paypal if you like..
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Ok, I got my first 15" sub today. All I've ever dealt with before are 10's and 12's. At the moment I have a pair of 12's in the back of my 97 Grand am, each one seeing 1.25 cubes sealed. The box is easy to work with, I can have the whole thing pulled out in a matter of minutes. I would like to have something similar with this 15. One problem....the clearance through the backseat is only 13.5 inches, I believe. The space to go in through the back isn't very easy to work with either. If I build a box that has the sub laying on it's back with the cone up, I really think I'll lose a lot of the potential from the sub that I would normally get from rear-firing it. Also, I …
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Figured these could get their own thread, so if anyone else wanted to join in, we'd have a place... Dave, in the center...placating the crowd around the Magnum, as there often is one Teh van in the lane, getting ready for the SQ test and SPL run. How the testing area was set up. Chad's dual Mag D2's...pretty asses Kevin's car getting ready, with the team from NC testing. Dave's doing...something. Beats me. The other Chad's amp rack/battery rack...the drill adds deebeez Motivation for Bucky. He's quiet. The guys from NC with an 18" Solo X And c'mon...a car audio show without the local fuzz showing up is..well, no fun at all Bucky is a menace to society...th…
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what would be the best sealed box volume for a XXX18 v3 off a 2kW Hertz amp.... and yes.....this sub was made for SQ
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If have been thinking about this for too long and my brain is no longer able to figure this out on it's own Are L-pads ever used in a car audio application? I understand their use in a passive setup for home audio but what about an active setup in car audio? Hmmmmm adjusting the amplifier gain will not change sensitivity so an L-pad would be used to attenuate a higher sensitivity driver? Reason I am asking is that it can be difficult to match mid/tweeter/midbass sensitivities for an active 3-way setup. Let's say that the midbass and tweeter sensitivity is 88db 1w/1m (4 ohm). And that the midrange sensitivity is 91db 1w/m (8 ohm). I think 91db 1w/1m@8ohm is the same as …
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Hi I need some help designing a box for two Digital Designs 2512c D2 Each sub will be wired to its own hifonics brz1200d @ 1ohm My max dimensions are: 38W X 14H X 22D I am looking for subs+ port (centered) firing foward I listen to rap Thanks! p.s- i plan on printing what i get here and giving that to a shop (cut list, google sketch ect.) i dont have the right tools to do it myself
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I'm more of an aspiring SPL guy, I don't know it all but I know a fair deal, regardless thats my personal focus. SQ is pretty much new to me, but I've got a guy with a 250 wanting a competitive SQ car a local shop is wanting to charge him out the rear in labor, I'm pretty confident I could do whatever needed to his truck. I'm just curious where to go with it. It sits now with Focal K2P doors, Focal Access rears, Alpine 4.150PDX amp, 2x12" Pioneer slims behind the rear seats powered by a PDX 600.1 and a JL 10" woofer in the center console powered by a JL 250.1 amp processed through a Kenwood DNX7100. He wants to move the K2P fronts to the rear and put focal utopia 3 ways …
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hi, i have two 12's i made out of wmd motors (the tripple stacked ones) and mostly sig soft parts. like i said i have two of them and two 1500 watt rockford amps. this is going into my durango. i would like to hit high numbers with these. i have tons of room back there and a 2400 bat. i just need help designing a box. thank you all in advance!! eddie g
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here is a link to some tables, but I would really love to build a TL or Snail Shell box soon to put a small sub in http://www.quarter-wave.com/Theory/Alignment_Tables.pdf
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ill let the pics tell the story Many Thanks too Pierce Audio Products for the Comps
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Hi guys, I drive an SUV for the first time, with enough of trunk space (for the first time of my life) ! It's a Mazda CX-5 (2.2 l diesel with 150 hp) : I love it hopefully :-) :-) I will use my Zcon 15" on an IA20.1 amplifier. I think I'll do sub up. But how to put the port ? Port up or port to the rear ? How much room is necessary between the port and the rear hatch ? Is there a maximum ? If I put it firing back, what would be good and why ? Port standing on a side of the back panel of the box, or laying down on all the width ? I see both scenarii for SUV generally. I'll take some mesurements later. I think I can easily run my sub in a 4ft3 net enclosure, in this…
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I was looking around at how I could go about finishing my box. Now this is a 10 cube box, but fully square. Since its MDF I would think it would be hard to paint. So I was searching and came up with four things I may be able to do. Spray/Roll on Bedliner(not sure if it's the same as paint), Carpet Wrap, Fur wrap, or Vinyl Wrap(hardest) Now I have no upholstery expirence so wrapping my be a task, but it looks good when done right that's why it is a option.
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hi all i was just looking at a cabin gain chart and saw that most vehicles had about 25 db of gain at 25 hz but at 30 hz dropped to about 20 dbs of gain so that got me wondering if i would be better off tuning my box to 25 hz than to 30 hz because of this gain. JW. also does anyone have or know where i can find a cabin gain chart on an 01 tacoma single cab because the chart i have doesnt so i used a dakota instead thanks mike
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I have two DC audio xl 12s just built birch box after diplacment im setting at 4.03 cubes have good electric running skar 4500 so they are seeing 2200 to 2500 rms each here were i need a little help they will be in the back of 2014 Lincoln navigator i have material for 2 4” round ports were should i face subs and port location and whats the best tunning for these subs
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I have a 2004 Cadillac SLS and am looking to fab a 4th order enclosure for 2 SA-8 V.2's on a SAZ 1500 V.3. The reason for the smaller sub is to help save room in the trunk and to still have high output. The reason for the 4th order is the infamous Cadillac trunk bass trap, so I would like to port the enclosure through the stock sub location in my rear deck. I am not too familiar with hertz levels or anything, but I can tell you that I listen to every thing from Hip Hop, R&B, Jazz, and Alternative. New to the forum here and just looking for some experienced suggestions. If you would like more detail please let me know. Would like a little seasoned input before I spend …
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I have seen a few posts on here recently about trunk cars and the difficulties that some have experienced with their sub bass system. I think this may help. There are a few primary problems that are encountered when we install subwoofer enclosures into a sedan type vehicle with a trunk. The most obvious problem is the reduced amount of bass in the main listening cabin. The next possible problem is that there is more bass with the trunk open than when closed. A third problem is the excessive rattling of the trunk body panels. Proper damping will greatly reduce the vibrating body panels and yield slightly higher SPL in the vehicle, but will not resolve the other issues inh…
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my subs are going to be upfiring (towards roof), would it sound best to have the port facing the rear of car? or facing roof (same direction as subs)? Or does it even matter? This is going in a 2door jeep wrangler. Thanks
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For those of you that have pondered about getting a sponsorship and dont know how, or some of you that think you deserve one, here are a few helpful hints. #1 Accomplish something. Are you a nobody? Have they heard of you? Do you get noticed? #2 Sell yourself. If you cant sell yourself to them, how are you gonna sell their product? #3 Hold your tongue. I can guarantee you that there isnt one company out there that will sponsor a loudmouth s.o.b. that just makes negative scenes in public or on public forums. As a sposored competitor, you are representing the company. #4 Make a game plan. What comps are you going to? Do you show off your ride or just put a blanket…
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Alright guys, here it is. Not too bad for my first time I think. PS. This is on completely Stock electrical (other than a cap) and we all know how well caps help you out and only 1.5k wrms. Music Peak: Test Tone: ~48hz
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Why is it bad to have the height to width ratio larger than 1:8? I made a box that is too small.... and thats the only i really can make my box tund low enough... i fucked up and now im out 2 sheets of mdf and a lot of time and effort... damn..
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