SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I have been searching around and just can't seem to get a good enough grasp on these so hopefully somebody here can help me. I'm building a box so after the displacement of everything it will be 3cuft. I will be running two Audioque HDC310s D1 and want to tune the box to 35 hz. So my question is how many ports? How long? What diameter? I just don't want to screw this up and have port noise or inefficient ports. I was also wondering if I could just get pvc pipe from a local hardware store and use that and buy some flares online to save some money. Thanks in advance!

Curious, as anyone else seen a lot of box builders and designers using aero port areas equivalent to square or slotted port area? I was under the impression that the agreed upon rule of thumb was that you can use .56% less area while achieving like results. Within this practice, I find myself believing that if one were to use equal, that in theory, they are increasing their port area by, .56% I also lean toward this thought, if you correctly designed your enclosure and its port, based around the mathematics and t/s parameters of your driver, and chose to not use the formentioned rule of thumb,when using an aero port, that you have given too much port area to your design…

My goal this yr. is farely ambitious. I want to post the loudest Trunk score in DBDrag. This is not gonna be an easy task by no means. Thier are some seriously big shoes to fill following in the likes of Dave Dasilva, Mike Stiers, Don Doyle, Steve Sears to name a few. I will have to achieve at least 154+ to achieve my goal. My starting point See ya in the Lanes

After comparing torres to the RE calc, I realized that it was off (re) by a lot more than I had expected. About an entire cubic foot off. So I think now would be a good time to build a new box. The main question I have is in reference to the "Port Top/Bottom" measurement, I'm not sure where the 4.50" comes from? I'm also not quite sure about how a slot port with no bend's would act since I don't think i've seen many people build one without bends. Main goal is to have the Hifonics brz15 laying face up and the port facing either the trunk or in the cabin, and to be removable (the box). Are there any real advantages to an inward facing port? I've heard that you would want y…

Hi guys, I drive an SUV for the first time, with enough of trunk space (for the first time of my life) ! It's a Mazda CX-5 (2.2 l diesel with 150 hp) : I love it hopefully :-) :-) I will use my Zcon 15" on an IA20.1 amplifier. I think I'll do sub up. But how to put the port ? Port up or port to the rear ? How much room is necessary between the port and the rear hatch ? Is there a maximum ? If I put it firing back, what would be good and why ? Port standing on a side of the back panel of the box, or laying down on all the width ? I see both scenarii for SUV generally. I'll take some mesurements later. I think I can easily run my sub in a 4ft3 net enclosure, in this…

hey everyone, so, soon I will be getting a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I have the majority of my system ready to install. (please dont judge, i was not as educated when i bought this stuff) Rockford Fosgate P2 12" (2011 model) (it meh...), Rockford R500-1 amp (low efficiency, 58% @ 2 ohms) , Sony CDX-GT565UP (love it), and KnuKonceptz 4 gauge kit. right ow I have a crappy box to test with, its 1.72 cuft tuned to 31Hz via 4" aero. I will be building a 2-2.2 cuft box tuned to 32 once i am sure how i want the port and sub positioned. the current box i have the sub is on one side and the port on the other. so it will be easy to experiment how it will be positioned. my qu…

So, I'm set out to make a ported box for one 12" SSA DCON. I looked at all the specs, and here is what I have come up with: Width - 30 in. Height - 14 in. Top - 12 in. Bottom - 16 in. Wood - 0.75 in. thick Square port width - 1.5 in. Square port interior length - 9 in. This puts my Interior volume at 2.311 ft^3, and the tuning frequency at 28.28 Hz. This is about the best I can do with dimensions that can be easily cut, and that will fit my Scion tC. Do you guys have any suggestions? This is my first box I will be building, and I know all about the supplies, I just need to learn more about the dimensions of box building, as well dealing with the ported vo…

ill let the pics tell the story Many Thanks too Pierce Audio Products for the Comps

Im trying to make a box for a single 12" dcon can you guys give me your feedback and let me know what you think please? im new in building boxes this is my first and looking for it to be tuned at 32hz demensions for the box are as seen in the calculator( long story on why i chose those measurements and dont want to even explain why) let me know what you guys think please and also for my port according to this what would be the sizes of the 2 pieces of wood i would cut for it? thats only thing im confused about at this point.

I'll be building a new box this weekend for my new Xcon 12. I have seen quite a few boxes with black carpet and white ports lately, and I really do like how they look. So I was gonna try one myself. Parts Express has some black carpet. One has a latex backing and the other one doesn't. Is there a plus to one over the other? Should I be looking else where for carpet? What have you guys used? I've never done carpet, just textured paint, and want something differant. I am just unsure what to get. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Tony Nelson

Alright guys, here it is. Not too bad for my first time I think. PS. This is on completely Stock electrical (other than a cap) and we all know how well caps help you out and only 1.5k wrms. Music Peak: Test Tone: ~48hz

hi all i was just looking at a cabin gain chart and saw that most vehicles had about 25 db of gain at 25 hz but at 30 hz dropped to about 20 dbs of gain so that got me wondering if i would be better off tuning my box to 25 hz than to 30 hz because of this gain. JW. also does anyone have or know where i can find a cabin gain chart on an 01 tacoma single cab because the chart i have doesnt so i used a dakota instead thanks mike

Hi, I have been using fiberglass resin in my boxes for years Does resin help spl because the box is harder or does the resin help with the sound wave, maybe the speed of the wave.I just want to no if I need to resin or not .My spl numbers or the same with or without.Thanks for any help.

I have two DC audio xl 12s just built birch box after diplacment im setting at 4.03 cubes have good electric running skar 4500 so they are seeing 2200 to 2500 rms each here were i need a little help they will be in the back of 2014 Lincoln navigator i have material for 2 4” round ports were should i face subs and port location and whats the best tunning for these subs

I have a question regarding port length and how to measure it in my application. I have decided on one 15in FI-Q in a downfiring ported console encloser for my truck. Question is: I have attached a photo of an example I did and I don't know how to figure the length. And also, how do I figure the port area and will this be enough for a 15in FI Q. A SA-1500v.2 will power the sub. The port will be 3.5in wide and 14.5 in tall (inside diameter) but how long will it be? Looking to tune at roughly 30hz and the box will have 3.65cu after displacement if this works. Is it A, B or C. Red would be airflow Thanks in advance

I've got quite a lot going on right now if you cant tell, I've got a client's SQ truck and my personal SPL build going at the same time. I've got some great info from you guys on the SQ build so lets try some on my SPL build. Last year we took state records in USACi in Stock 1801-3001, since then we've been addicted to going bigger and louder. We want to be able to still play music so, no pure tones/burp set up. We've got the durango ripped to down to having nothing but a dash, being completely deadened up. The idea sits at building a wall behind the B pillars for 4 18" BTLs. Haven't decided on what to do to power them yet. We have more than enough room to give them all…

My next car is hopefully going to be a 2002 Subaru Sti hatch, and I'm going to wall it with 6 Fi IB3's on a 7k. Pic 1 Pic 2 My first question is, should I build just a baffle, was thinking 9" baffle; or should I build a partial box and with the back seat removed leave the rear open to the trunk and deaden the fuck out of the lid, along with magnetic locks around the perimeter to keep it from slapping? The second smaller question is, I was daydreaming and thought of putting a trapdoor in the trunk floor on actuators to vent to the ground when I'm driving on the highway or at a show for more airflow. Worth it, or just a nice passing thought…

So I will be ordering an OA-12v2 D4 very soon after selling my current system (Upgrading from a Fosgate Punch P2 12, 2011 model). I have a Rockford Prime P500-1d to work with, so the sub will see just over 500 watts. I have read in many places that the more power, the smaller that the box can be, and the less power, the larger you can build the box... generally. So I was thinking of doing a 2.5 cuft enclosure for the OA, on the 500w. It will be going in the trunk of my 2000 Civic sedan, most likely sub back, port side. Does this sound appropriate? Is there another way I should approach this? The box will be tuned to 30Hz via 4" aeroport. Thank you for any help, and I apol…

what would be the best sealed box volume for a XXX18 v3 off a 2kW Hertz amp.... and yes.....this sub was made for SQ

So, as you guys know, I'm an SPL nut. But as of lately I'm getting pretty tired of the completely bone stock setup in my daily driver. I had been talking about doing a nice install for a while, but frankly don't really know where to begin. I was talking to a buddy of mine (former IASCA SQ competitor), and he was talking about doing some A-pillars with 3" mids and tweeters and then doing some 7" midbasses in the doors. Frankly, I have no idea how that would work or what equipment to look at. I even thought about just going basic with some nice components in the doors (tweeter and 6.5"), and then maybe getting a little fancy with some 8" woofer kickpods to go along with a…

Hi all I am looking for advice on a design for a single ported enclosure to carry a 13W7 sub. The enclosure would be sitting on the rear right hand seat, directly behind the driver (Right hand drive in Australia). There are a couple of things I need to clarify first... Is the recommended internal volume of 2.375 cubic foot too small for this sub? If so, what would be a better size. Here we only get 18mm thick MDF (about 0.71"), so to make the front baffle stronger, should I just glue and screw two together? - Will it start to rattle / vibrate loose? If I make the box to JL's specs of 2.375, I would have to change the outside dimensions of the box to be (19.7" x 19.7" x 17…

This is my first box im going to build, and its going into a 95 honda accord. I may increase the height to 17 or 18 if i can fit it. I talk to guy at my local audio shop and they would charge me $250 to build it and he told me not to use a areo/tube port that is was 90's tech and nobody uses it now and slot was the way to go. I wanna use a tube port to save space. What are you guys thoughts on this box

my subs are going to be upfiring (towards roof), would it sound best to have the port facing the rear of car? or facing roof (same direction as subs)? Or does it even matter? This is going in a 2door jeep wrangler. Thanks

I did a recent install in the wifes jetta an alpine oversized face deck 7998 or something I think I'd have to look.. a PG Xenon x600.1 amp, pushing a single DD 9510F in a 3 cube box 45in^3 port 34hz tune. not too musical imo, but bangs hard on the low bass stuff. I think if I had more power it may help, and a higher tune also would more than likely help, as it's tuned lower than the drivers FS... anyway, in my sig is a link to the vid, and here are a couple pix does a 141.9@34hz car closed on the dash new TL, and a 141.4@32hz. 140s on music peak hold on dash, and I did a rolling average with some chopped and screwed and watched it do 139-140 for a little over 30 seconds.…