SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Currently designing a Subwoofer Enclosure for an L7 15 for a 2001 Lincoln Towncar. I am planning to build the enclosure so it would is on the rear ledge in the trunk .. my question is is it bad for partial surface of the cone to only be 4 inches away from a wall of the enclosure? The enclosure will still maintain volume required

How would I go about flush mounting this? What bit, how to do it, etc. 2.65 cu. ft. box @ 30hz (XCON pre designed enclosure)

Currently running 2 HDS 215s (600rms, 15 inch) subwoofers in the back seat of a mustang convertible. Not much of an improvement over my previous Sundown E-12s. The problem I believe is the box. being obviously small to fit back there. Around 2 cubes per sub. Would I be better off getting a new box to put back there, say the QBOMB15VL where there is 3.85 cubes (4.2 total) for A SINGLE 15 rather than my 2 15s now. Also found on ebay a 4.0 box (5.33 total) tuned at 32hz. Also I could upgrade the subwoofer to something that can take my 1700rms amp better. Any help appreciated.

So I got this 30$ subwoofer which I bought 3 year ago and it still plays good and I like it. But the box what it has now I was told is too small and tuned very high(indeed it does not hit the lows very good). I have no information about its xmas, vas, FS ... etc. It says 900W max (maybe 150w real ) 12 inch Thunder. Model BC1250RD I want something to listen to my music till I get money for NSv2 ( rap and some bass tests... so low tuning around 34Hz). Here are some pics. My fail box. Yes I know I don't need polyfill for a ported box. Port is 4.7 inches radius , long around 5-6 inches. So help me forum. I was told by a pro I should go with 2 - 2.25 cub ft , 15 sq inch r…

2 SA12s, ported to about 30-33hz, whatever you think is best. I would like two seperate optimal boxes to go in the back of a Dodge Charger, with 1200rms. Im looking for decent SQ (at least at low volumes) but mainly SPL

Here is my plan, I'm open to any input but I think this is the setup that is best going to meet my goals. First off, car is a 2004 deville with stock 10" IB sub on the rear deck. There is also a center armrest with a 9" x 11" opening into the trunk. I plan to use 6 of the Exodus Audio 10" drivers, one in the stock location, and the other 5 in a roughly 12-13" cube, one on each side and one on the rear that feeds through into the cab somewhat like the home theater guys do with their basements. The subs are 8 ohms (6.1 nominal) so 6 should help me maximize whatever amp I choose to use. Looking at probably a Sundown 2000D or 3000D. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info..…

O just for giggles i built a lil oh 3cu tuned to 34hz box. . threw it in teh car hooked it up and it gets loud about as loud as my sealed 2 sub box.. But the thing i hate hate hate is that, it only does this at the higher hz's. Like low low bass plays but it doesn't rattle anything ect ect... I think my 18's had me spoiled though and i could just be being biased, lol So to compensate for the lows what would be a better tuning for my needs..28? or should i just go back to 18's

Anyone ever built a box for 99-06 ext can gmc or Chevy truck? I am trying to make one but don't have my truck until 2 weeks from now since it's getting painted. I mainly just need some max dimensions or an existing design. I appreciate any help

Ive read on some forums that peel and seal will work for sound deadening just like dynomat. I was walking through home depot yesterday and saw the roofing tar, would this work like the roadkill liquid stuff? Its alot cheaper.

i had a thread a while ago that had a download to a box tuning calculator that i made. i've since upgraded it hardcore and would like to repost it. i cant edit my original post in the other thread which is why i'm making a new one. also since i cant edit my original post to update it, i'm linking it to SMD where the original thread is to download from. that way i can update that one which will in turn update the link to the download from here and still allow comments and questions on this forum (i hope that's all ok). if a mod would like, the other thread can be deleted if they find it to prevent any confusion. that one is pretty old tho, so probably buried tho i found it…

so here is my problem.. Ive never sound deadened a floor of a car but i have done everything else... so i pulled up out my seats and my carpet today so i can get started. well i noticed there's a rubber like matt and Styrofoam stuck to the floor should i try and pull this all up or am i gonna have a sticky mess?. im wondering if putting sound deadener on top of the matt would even do anything beneficial. should i just do the bare metal areas? I have 50 sq ft to put in on the floor and firewall. just trying to kill some road noise. any help is appreciated thanks a lot

Vehicle : 1973 VW Beetle Location in the vehicle: Rear cargo area; sub pointed up Space available (Length x Width x Height): 35" length x 12" depth x 12-15" height Subwoofer make and model: Fi SSD Subwoofer Size: 10 Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Rectangle w/ 45's What type of music do you like?: EDM, RAP, Rock, Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday high sq Tuning Freq (Hz): 35 - 38hz? Volume : 1 - 1.5? Questions: So I have modeled up a few different enclosure in win isd but I just want some confirmation as to what you guys think will work best for my listening needs. From what I have read on this forum that I believe Fi recom…

I already have one box thats tuned down to 30hz but i am looking to build a second for competetions. I know higher hz are much easier to get loud on TL. I want to figure out the best hz to tune my box to so it will be as loud as possible. Is there a way to figure out what my cabins best tuned too.

I'm preparing a box that will hopefully be home to 2 15" Xcons that will be powered by a saz-3500. My goal is not to get the best spl numbers. I do listen to a lot of rap yet at the same time I enjoy some Lenka, Utada Hikaru, or miss Swift to give some examples. I think I would like to tune around 30 or 31hz. So far, I was planning separate chambers and double baffle. This will be going in a smaller SUV, probably subs up, ports back. I am doing all my calculations and sketches w/ pencil and paper, so I may be off alittle due to rounding or way off due to poor math skills. Max available space is 26L*37W*24H, after divider and sub dis I am thinking the box is 10.3ft^3. I fe…

My next subwoofer enclosure setup in my Hyundai Elantra will be a subwoofer forward firing into the cabin sealed from the trunk. Would there be any disadvantages to having the subwoofer mounted behind the back seat and the port firing up through the rear deck (both sealed from the trunk)? I do not know if having the port and subwoofer that far apart and on different planes will cause any weird cancellation or any phase issues.

I have read alot on building ported boxes in the past couple of days but here is what i was planning on.... Putting two kicker 12" L7's in a ported box. Here is my ? When porting the box is it more efficent to put one port out the middle where both chambers connect to, or to port each individual enclosure on either side/ or in the middle just separated!? If using just one port is there a need to separated the two chambers before the port?? THanks!@

Kinda sad. Been looking to get into competing but all the organizations I have looked @(dBDrag, USACi, IASCA, and MECA) don't have comps around the Indiana area. All are in Ohio and what not. I don't mind traveling a state or so but why no shows in IN?

Well, here's the deal. I'm going to be building a box for 2 Fi Bl 18's. I figured up the box will be 11.27 cubes before displacement, which is about 10.81 cubes after sub displacement. I figured that I will have 158 sq. inches of port area total. The question I have is, since I want to tune the box to 34hz, how long do I make the port? The port will be 44.5" wide, and 3.55" tall (inside measurements).

my sub amp is a kenwood excelon. u cant bypas the xover... right now i just cranked it 200hz at a fixed 18db slope. and use an 80 hz 18 (or 12) on the hu. i forget if the 2 frequencies combine or if there separate of each other.... i think it was explained to me once awhile back that they somehow combine so i would have like a 75 hz with 36db slope.... what would u recommend i do...

I am planning a fairly large system as my next project. I'm curious to know what you guys think of oddly shaped enclosures. I'm not talking about the plain jane square boxes, I'm talking about enclosures constructed out of nearly 100% composite materials. You know the ones made to fit oddly shaped areas such as the sides of trunks or in spare tire wells. I am planning on 2 Fi.BTL15's and in order to get them in and still have room for amps I am going to need to use fibreglass for a very large portion of the box to maximize the enclosure size as well as the usable trunk space for amps and such. I am under the impression that shape doesnt matter nearly as much as the size…

Hey, i'm gonna spill out all kinds of info so make sure you understand it, hehe. I'm currently workin on your design right now, you will be using external dimensions of 42" wide x 17" tall x 22" deep. This IS what i am going with. You will be using a double baffle on this box. Box material will be constructed out of 0.75" material. I need to know what bracing material you will be using, Wooden dowels or 2x4s? Internal dimensions- 40.5" wide x 15.5" tall x 19.75" deep. Your speaker Outer Diameter is 10.91", i went ahead and rounded up to 11" for a hair more headroom for accidental measurement inaccuracy. Your Baffle design- The border around this baffle is showing the th…

Okay this year I compete in DB Drag Street B, and SLAP S2. Next year I want to do street max 1-2 in DB Drag and SS1 in SLAP I currently have 2 vfl 150.1s I like them, but they just arent doing it for me on 14v. I want to get new amps in a few weeks, and hopefully use them next year too. I have a few in my mind I have been thinking of, but I wanted to see if anyone could chime in with some good, strong amps at 14v. Thanks.

Not owning a meter I have not gotten to do much testing. My SPL comp runs have been as much for testing purposes as for fun. I have done 3 testing sessions not in comps. and the 1st 2 were in between comp runs for 20-30 mins each and then yesterday I finally got a chance to do some rigoris testing for a few hours. Here's what I learned helps my TC get louder: 1. a. Passenger seat all the way forward as if some one was getting in back seat of my 2 door, a funny thought cuz I made my car a 2 seater with a massive enclosure. b. The back of the seat all the way forward. I have a pic. of this if any1 is having a hard time visualizing, but its a common practice with db-dragg…

I got my RL-p 15 metered in a ported box running it with about 800 watts and I hit 146.3, which is above my goal but not enoguh for me competition wise. So I was thinking about getting 4 or 5 Assasin 8's for competition. Only problem is that I have a ED 9.1 amp, and it only goes to 1 ohm, the speaekrs would be wired parallel and that would give them .8 ohms. I'm guessing it would be ok to run this on that amp because the wires and everything would bring it to a grand total of over 1 ohm right? Also, would five 8's be overkill? Should I just stick with 4 instead? Thanks alot.

i just started building my first mdf box. im using 2 1/2 inch drywall screws and the proper drill bit. everytime i try to put them in, i split the wood. are these screws to long? not drilling fast enough or what? done it 4 times so far, and i dont want to keep wasting wood.