SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I'm just about ready to buy a H-701. I have a pair of sundown sax-100.2's running dual mono to my Diamond d-971 components(~400 rms per side). I wonder if I should stay with the passive xover or go active... I have the capability to easily switch between the 2 when I get the processor. Also, I just got off the phone with Diamond, found out that the tweet is crossed at 850 hz, but he said that the woofer has no upper cutoff freq. If I do go active, Where should I set the freqs, I want to try and keep the tweet as low as possible to bring my stage up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

so here is my problem.. Ive never sound deadened a floor of a car but i have done everything else... so i pulled up out my seats and my carpet today so i can get started. well i noticed there's a rubber like matt and Styrofoam stuck to the floor should i try and pull this all up or am i gonna have a sticky mess?. im wondering if putting sound deadener on top of the matt would even do anything beneficial. should i just do the bare metal areas? I have 50 sq ft to put in on the floor and firewall. just trying to kill some road noise. any help is appreciated thanks a lot

Which box is best of them all? Subwoofer is Alphard DB315 (2.5kw) 1600Rms clamped

In short order: I've layed out so many ideas for the cargo area of my truck that i've gone cross-eyed. The trailblazer's been a test platform since I got her last year. It's about GD time that I finalize something for her. Afterall, it's my daily driven - 400 mile a week vehicle. '02 Trailblazer LS; no third row seats; no ext version. I need to actually be able to utilize the U portion in SUV. So: a.) build an enclosure / rack along one side b.) make a wdith-wise enclosure that is easy to remove I've gotten to the point where I think it's easier to visualize designs in trunk cars simply because you have objects to work with / around. This stationwagon though, is kicking…

im makiing a temp system for now in my 95 grand prix. i am needing help on how much port area is ideal for these subs. going to be pushed by a alpine mrp1000 at 2 ohms. the sub is a brand new alpine type r 12. thank you for your time.

O just for giggles i built a lil oh 3cu tuned to 34hz box. . threw it in teh car hooked it up and it gets loud about as loud as my sealed 2 sub box.. But the thing i hate hate hate is that, it only does this at the higher hz's. Like low low bass plays but it doesn't rattle anything ect ect... I think my 18's had me spoiled though and i could just be being biased, lol So to compensate for the lows what would be a better tuning for my needs..28? or should i just go back to 18's

My next subwoofer enclosure setup in my Hyundai Elantra will be a subwoofer forward firing into the cabin sealed from the trunk. Would there be any disadvantages to having the subwoofer mounted behind the back seat and the port firing up through the rear deck (both sealed from the trunk)? I do not know if having the port and subwoofer that far apart and on different planes will cause any weird cancellation or any phase issues.

So I got this 30$ subwoofer which I bought 3 year ago and it still plays good and I like it. But the box what it has now I was told is too small and tuned very high(indeed it does not hit the lows very good). I have no information about its xmas, vas, FS ... etc. It says 900W max (maybe 150w real ) 12 inch Thunder. Model BC1250RD I want something to listen to my music till I get money for NSv2 ( rap and some bass tests... so low tuning around 34Hz). Here are some pics. My fail box. Yes I know I don't need polyfill for a ported box. Port is 4.7 inches radius , long around 5-6 inches. So help me forum. I was told by a pro I should go with 2 - 2.25 cub ft , 15 sq inch r…

Here is my plan, I'm open to any input but I think this is the setup that is best going to meet my goals. First off, car is a 2004 deville with stock 10" IB sub on the rear deck. There is also a center armrest with a 9" x 11" opening into the trunk. I plan to use 6 of the Exodus Audio 10" drivers, one in the stock location, and the other 5 in a roughly 12-13" cube, one on each side and one on the rear that feeds through into the cab somewhat like the home theater guys do with their basements. The subs are 8 ohms (6.1 nominal) so 6 should help me maximize whatever amp I choose to use. Looking at probably a Sundown 2000D or 3000D. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info..…

Would it be possible to make a transmission line box for 2 18 Q's in an area that's 16" tall x 39" wide x 70" long with an additional area of 22" tall x 52" wide x 10" deep OD? Like this: Would having the subs mounted off center make it not work?

I have been looking in to these two subs for months now reading everything I can. I am still stuck maybe some smart people can help me out. ok I am looking for high quality, clarity, accurate, punchy sound not so much loud. mainly SQ. I had two Pioneer TS-W309D4 in a sealed box at 1.15 Cu. Ft. Air Space per sub. powered by a Pyle PLA2678. I liked this sound it sounded nice punchy. but I wanted something better so this guy told me about FI and Audio Pipe amps . so then I got a FI SSD 12 with only interior leads. powered by a AUDIOPIPE APSM-1500 and in 2cu ft. of air space. tuned to 32hz ported. it got so loud my nose flap would shake and it was awesome and still …

I have a Fi Q motor with cooling option with a 6 spoke 18 basket, single layer nomex spiders, tall roll surround, and dual 2. Recone made by spl audio. I have it in a box thats 39.75x 42.5 x 13.5 with a 10"x12"X42" portThe sub and port are both forward firing. I can tell the port needs to be shrunk but i was thinking of doing a 6th for it instead. Any ideas?

I am looking to do 1.5 ft3 with a slot port. I am thinking 20x14.25x12.5 with a .5 wide port by 9.8 inch. For the slot is it as easy as it seems just make 13.75 x 9.8 and keep it a half inch off the side wall?

So, it's getting near that time of the year.... I'm trying to figure just how I'm going to make it to finals this year... check out the sights, installs, and meet a few names. What better time then World Finals? So, dBDrag Finals are Oct 7-9 in Cleveland, OH. I'm definately going to be able to make it here, it's only a 3 hour drive for me. Meet shane, tottie, nick, loyd, tom, pete, iggy, and so on. Anyone else going? So, Usaci Finals are in Kansas City, MO Oct 15 & 16th. I'm going to try to make it down there, as I can get flights for ~$250 so far. Meet Matt, Mike, Justin, so on. Anyone else going? -Nick

i had a thread a while ago that had a download to a box tuning calculator that i made. i've since upgraded it hardcore and would like to repost it. i cant edit my original post in the other thread which is why i'm making a new one. also since i cant edit my original post to update it, i'm linking it to SMD where the original thread is to download from. that way i can update that one which will in turn update the link to the download from here and still allow comments and questions on this forum (i hope that's all ok). if a mod would like, the other thread can be deleted if they find it to prevent any confusion. that one is pretty old tho, so probably buried tho i found it…

I'm preparing a box that will hopefully be home to 2 15" Xcons that will be powered by a saz-3500. My goal is not to get the best spl numbers. I do listen to a lot of rap yet at the same time I enjoy some Lenka, Utada Hikaru, or miss Swift to give some examples. I think I would like to tune around 30 or 31hz. So far, I was planning separate chambers and double baffle. This will be going in a smaller SUV, probably subs up, ports back. I am doing all my calculations and sketches w/ pencil and paper, so I may be off alittle due to rounding or way off due to poor math skills. Max available space is 26L*37W*24H, after divider and sub dis I am thinking the box is 10.3ft^3. I fe…

I am planning a fairly large system as my next project. I'm curious to know what you guys think of oddly shaped enclosures. I'm not talking about the plain jane square boxes, I'm talking about enclosures constructed out of nearly 100% composite materials. You know the ones made to fit oddly shaped areas such as the sides of trunks or in spare tire wells. I am planning on 2 Fi.BTL15's and in order to get them in and still have room for amps I am going to need to use fibreglass for a very large portion of the box to maximize the enclosure size as well as the usable trunk space for amps and such. I am under the impression that shape doesnt matter nearly as much as the size…

Is there a good rule of thumb to follow when it comes to designing a custom ported enclosure in regards to volume vs tuning frequency? Like the more volume you have the lower you want it tuned? I have been playing with design specs in winisd and based on the graphs I see in the design window, want to build a 3ft^3 box tuned to 34hz for my 12" GCON . How well would this design translate into the real world? Box will be in trunk of my '96 accord. I listen to all types of music but LOVE dub step and deep bass. Would 32hz sound better. I am looking for max spl and bass response through a wide frequency range...

can you do a 2 or 3 way active set up with this equipment? (Alpine CDA-9884, PXA-H100, KTX-H100) im doing a 2way and will try a 3 way down the road so id like to get something that will have the processing for the 3way when im ready crutchfield has that trade in (exchange) system were i can get a gift card for there site. (im going to sell them my sony hu and old ipod for a like $100). the alpine hu is currently $170. im trying to find a better deal on the PXA-H100, $150 is alittle expensive and i think i can do better. the h/u will be new w/ warranty. so im going either this route or that clarion h/u. with the mic and everything on this combo it would seem that my firs…

Not owning a meter I have not gotten to do much testing. My SPL comp runs have been as much for testing purposes as for fun. I have done 3 testing sessions not in comps. and the 1st 2 were in between comp runs for 20-30 mins each and then yesterday I finally got a chance to do some rigoris testing for a few hours. Here's what I learned helps my TC get louder: 1. a. Passenger seat all the way forward as if some one was getting in back seat of my 2 door, a funny thought cuz I made my car a 2 seater with a massive enclosure. b. The back of the seat all the way forward. I have a pic. of this if any1 is having a hard time visualizing, but its a common practice with db-dragg…

I am going the wall route and am in the designing stages to make sure everything is going to fit. The issue I am having is with my ports... I can get my tuning around 35 which is where I want it when there is only 4 inches ^2 of port per square inch but I know that is WAYYY low. When I get my ratio of port in^3 to box volume right my tuning ends up in the teens.... what can I do? The dimensions I'm going with are 48 inches wide, 36.5 inches tall, 33 inches front to back. I just need some help with tuning... this is going to be a daily heavily demoed setup. edit** and the port in this picture is 17x8 which is about as big as I'm going to be able to go. And this setup is f…

I drive a 2005 Ford Taurus, currently with 2 Kicker Comp 12s, which were my first install. I've been looking to upgrade to (significantly) more powerful drivers for a while now and I've recently taken on the job of research. I talked to a local Audiophile Loudspeaker company and he recommended TC Sounds LMS-R 12s. After reading reviews, I've noticed that their performance, while good, can be hit or miss. I did some more research and stumbled upon the AA Havoc 12s. These interested me more because of the (almost) 100% positive reviews and thumbs ups for SPL AND SQ. I'm looking to run these off of a Kicker ZX2500.1, giving them the 1250 RMS they're rated for (not overpower…

Ive read on some forums that peel and seal will work for sound deadening just like dynomat. I was walking through home depot yesterday and saw the roofing tar, would this work like the roadkill liquid stuff? Its alot cheaper.

looking at possibly building a 6th order box for my 10" ssa xcon.. first of all i would like to know how you figure port area needed when building such an enclosure. for a standard vented box i show i need around 35" at 30hz more at higher hz obv. if i use this Car Audio - PORT Size Calculations and Formulas for WOOFER and Subwoofer BOXES and use the bandpass option i would need a box the size of my car in order to tune it low enough... clearly theirs something im missing ? i have roughly 4 maybe 5 cubes i can work with would love to hear some input

my sub amp is a kenwood excelon. u cant bypas the xover... right now i just cranked it 200hz at a fixed 18db slope. and use an 80 hz 18 (or 12) on the hu. i forget if the 2 frequencies combine or if there separate of each other.... i think it was explained to me once awhile back that they somehow combine so i would have like a 75 hz with 36db slope.... what would u recommend i do...