SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I already have one box thats tuned down to 30hz but i am looking to build a second for competetions. I know higher hz are much easier to get loud on TL. I want to figure out the best hz to tune my box to so it will be as loud as possible. Is there a way to figure out what my cabins best tuned too.

Currently I have a center console in a single cab chevy with sub up and port up. Like so.. Or what about something like thiss?

Hey guys. I need a little help designing a ported enclosure for my new Crystal CMPx2 15". It's going to go in the trailblazer for now. I listen to nearly everything so I'm looking for a good daily build. I could be off but I'm thinking I want to tune somewhere between 31-33Hz so I can get some lows. My size limitations are 46" wide x 16" high x 14" deep. I have a little wiggle room on height and depth, but I'd like to keep as much space as possible in the Trailblazer. I will post T/S parameters below and I expect to be running at 1500+ watts with maybe a little headroom, probably going to just grab a RF T1500bdcp, unless I get a better deal on something else. I'd really…

my sub amp is a kenwood excelon. u cant bypas the xover... right now i just cranked it 200hz at a fixed 18db slope. and use an 80 hz 18 (or 12) on the hu. i forget if the 2 frequencies combine or if there separate of each other.... i think it was explained to me once awhile back that they somehow combine so i would have like a 75 hz with 36db slope.... what would u recommend i do...

The past few weeks I have been going to a few comps here and there and noticing a lot of talk about what to tune your box to to get the highest SPL. Just looking to get opinions on here since there are a lot of competitors. Me personally, Im running 2 DC level 5 15's box tuned to 40hz @ 7.7 cubes doing 149.4 @ 53 hz........Not sure if i could tune it down to get better results or to tune it higher. Anyone got any suggestions?

Ive read on some forums that peel and seal will work for sound deadening just like dynomat. I was walking through home depot yesterday and saw the roofing tar, would this work like the roadkill liquid stuff? Its alot cheaper.

My 15 will be here today, and ive spent the last week drawing up designs but before i commit to any, does anyone have a more accurate box calc than Re.com? My friend used it and his came out nearly a 1/4 cubic foot bigger and tuned like 4~hz higher than what re box calc told him.

My next subwoofer enclosure setup in my Hyundai Elantra will be a subwoofer forward firing into the cabin sealed from the trunk. Would there be any disadvantages to having the subwoofer mounted behind the back seat and the port firing up through the rear deck (both sealed from the trunk)? I do not know if having the port and subwoofer that far apart and on different planes will cause any weird cancellation or any phase issues.

Which box is best of them all? Subwoofer is Alphard DB315 (2.5kw) 1600Rms clamped

Hey everyone. I purchased an SA-8 after reading a ton of reviews and now i am ready to start building a box. Since i've never built a box before i downloaded a couple of programs which apparently i have no concept on how to use :/ I listen to a variety of music from metal to dubsteb so i'm looking for a a box that can do both SQ and SPL. From what i've seen online it looks like .6^3 box tuned to 35hz is the way to go. Sub is going to have 500rms at 2ohm feeding it. I was thinking of having the sub point towards the roof and the port firing to the back. The narrowest point in the vehicle is 38". I emailed ram design to see if they could design me something but i haven't…

O just for giggles i built a lil oh 3cu tuned to 34hz box. . threw it in teh car hooked it up and it gets loud about as loud as my sealed 2 sub box.. But the thing i hate hate hate is that, it only does this at the higher hz's. Like low low bass plays but it doesn't rattle anything ect ect... I think my 18's had me spoiled though and i could just be being biased, lol So to compensate for the lows what would be a better tuning for my needs..28? or should i just go back to 18's

I am going the wall route and am in the designing stages to make sure everything is going to fit. The issue I am having is with my ports... I can get my tuning around 35 which is where I want it when there is only 4 inches ^2 of port per square inch but I know that is WAYYY low. When I get my ratio of port in^3 to box volume right my tuning ends up in the teens.... what can I do? The dimensions I'm going with are 48 inches wide, 36.5 inches tall, 33 inches front to back. I just need some help with tuning... this is going to be a daily heavily demoed setup. edit** and the port in this picture is 17x8 which is about as big as I'm going to be able to go. And this setup is f…

alright so im building a box for 2 15" LI's. the box would be 33" in depth which gives me 3 inches from the hatch on my jimmy. i think i read on here somewhere that there should be a least 6 inches for it to load off whatever the ports facing. the subs would be on top and port on bottom.

How would I go about flush mounting this? What bit, how to do it, etc. 2.65 cu. ft. box @ 30hz (XCON pre designed enclosure)

Here is my plan, I'm open to any input but I think this is the setup that is best going to meet my goals. First off, car is a 2004 deville with stock 10" IB sub on the rear deck. There is also a center armrest with a 9" x 11" opening into the trunk. I plan to use 6 of the Exodus Audio 10" drivers, one in the stock location, and the other 5 in a roughly 12-13" cube, one on each side and one on the rear that feeds through into the cab somewhat like the home theater guys do with their basements. The subs are 8 ohms (6.1 nominal) so 6 should help me maximize whatever amp I choose to use. Looking at probably a Sundown 2000D or 3000D. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info..…

I am looking to do 1.5 ft3 with a slot port. I am thinking 20x14.25x12.5 with a .5 wide port by 9.8 inch. For the slot is it as easy as it seems just make 13.75 x 9.8 and keep it a half inch off the side wall?

Well, that meter is comin in handy... I've got spreadsheets on my computer right now of multiple setups of what they do from 30hz-52hz in 1hz increments off of a 100w amp. I chose low power so when i make a change i can see it's difference better with low power. So far i've tested 8 different positions(i don't list all of them due to bad output and tested others with failure as well in output potential) using 1 10" sub ported at 42hz(just because it's only box i have at the moment before it gets warmer) (This is daily driver only) I've tested all positions AT THE HEADREST ONLY. So, all the Db ratings below are noticeably low. I've been to comp before in the past but m…

I Currently have 2 12" Memphis Audio PR's in a dual ported box powered by a Cadence ZRS-8 with stock electrical. The system is in a 2011 Mazda 3 Sedan. I have been wanting to play around with new subs and I got a crazy good deal on a single 12" Kicker CVR CompVR Series sub with a sealed box that fits two 12" subs with their own chamber. When I ask this question, keep in mind that I want to keep my stock electrical. I am trying to find either a single or two subs that will get pretty loud off stock electrical. I want something that will get loud and I'm leaning more towards SPL. Should I build a custom box for the single 12" or should I sell the sub and the box and use t…

some people know that I want to switch my blazer over to sq after I get a car for bass race/db drag so here is what I have so far let me know what you think mids amp (2ohms) http://www.woofersetc.com/p6743/PCX2125--P...t-Amplifier.htm tweeter amp (2ohms) http://www.woofersetc.com/p6743/PCX2125--P...t-Amplifier.htm sub amp (at 1.5ohms) http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/DD_Z1/ head unit ( I have just wanted to try it) http://www.woofersetc.com/p6576/CD7200-mkI...CD-receiver.htm mids for dash http://www.woofersetc.com/p1564/ES400--CDT...;-Midranges.htm mids for door http://www.woofersetc.com/p1566/ES600--CDT...;-Midranges.htm tweeters (a pillar mounted) http://www.wooferse…

Hello, I have a single BTL N2 12" D2, running on my saz 1500 at 1 Ohm. The box is 2.1 ft3 at 32 Hz, with a slot port. Port firing to the side of my truk. The car is a Toyota auris hatchback. On the TL I only scored 135.8 db sealed at the windshield, and I want higher numbers. It was at 58 Hz : I don't know why it was so high ! 138db with driver's side door open. What can I do ? I want a new box, but do I look for a bigger box, smaller box ? Do I need to have sub and port firing up ? I think I will try an higher tuning, like 34 Hz. Is it worth it ? I'm looking for suggestions. So I can ask a good box designer to work for me.

i just bought a 1990 crx and i have 2 audiopipe txx's they are crap but work for now i just need some help with the box should i have port back subs firing up ? subs firing back and port back? or any ideas? ive gutted the interior in the back i want to fiberglass it all

Currently running 2 HDS 215s (600rms, 15 inch) subwoofers in the back seat of a mustang convertible. Not much of an improvement over my previous Sundown E-12s. The problem I believe is the box. being obviously small to fit back there. Around 2 cubes per sub. Would I be better off getting a new box to put back there, say the QBOMB15VL where there is 3.85 cubes (4.2 total) for A SINGLE 15 rather than my 2 15s now. Also found on ebay a 4.0 box (5.33 total) tuned at 32hz. Also I could upgrade the subwoofer to something that can take my 1700rms amp better. Any help appreciated.

Do you guys take this into account (from the JL box building page): I take this as meaning I subtract half of the port width from the length. For example, my calculations calls for a 16.5 x 6.15 x 26.25" long port in order to tune to 33Hz. Does the physical port in the box then become 26.25 - 3.07= 23.18 inches long?

Currently designing a Subwoofer Enclosure for an L7 15 for a 2001 Lincoln Towncar. I am planning to build the enclosure so it would is on the rear ledge in the trunk .. my question is is it bad for partial surface of the cone to only be 4 inches away from a wall of the enclosure? The enclosure will still maintain volume required

i just started building my first mdf box. im using 2 1/2 inch drywall screws and the proper drill bit. everytime i try to put them in, i split the wood. are these screws to long? not drilling fast enough or what? done it 4 times so far, and i dont want to keep wasting wood.