SPL & SQ / Fabrication

i have one orion hcca 12 with a hifonic 2600d that will run @ 2 ohms ...lookin around for design an the 12 xcon optimal ported 2.65 ft3 tune to 30 is the perfect size i need cant this box work well for the hcca12???lookin for loudness..... thanks

We Started today, with this. Enclosure in and playing. But ALL the pressure goes right to the back. Took the woofers out. 2 DC Lv4 XL 18"s. Picture of how large the gap is. Supplies Mocking up the start of the seal. Sealing up the bottom Priming Port for red paint. Then, red paint. Cutting out 1/2 MDF to make seal. Driver side sealing done!! Starting on passenger side. Making sure boot stays in place. ALL DONE........ Until suede tomorrow. P.S. This is the truck. and just so it's known, this is his just a toy. Nissan BEFORE Wall seal This is his daily. McGauhy's 2/4 Drop, Ls3, Magna Flow Dual Turn down's.

I currently use DIY interconnects in the form of a twisted pair with drain wire terminated with soldered RCA ends. This has worked very well for my current setup and has been fairly cheap. Although, the twisted pair is more likely used for a balanced signal then an unbalanced signal (all my runs are unbalanced). I have been researching various interconnect methods and their craziness. I have noted form numerous sources that coaxial interconnects are better suited for unbalanced signals. From what I gathered, using coaxial cable in the vehicle environment can be expensive and difficult. The difficulties arise with inflexible cabling and long RCA ends. I can image the troub…

Which port, on average, is after for spl? What is the major goods and bads of each? I will be using 1 maybe 2 dc xl 12s and then later 3 level 2 8s or sa-8s.

If have been thinking about this for too long and my brain is no longer able to figure this out on it's own Are L-pads ever used in a car audio application? I understand their use in a passive setup for home audio but what about an active setup in car audio? Hmmmmm adjusting the amplifier gain will not change sensitivity so an L-pad would be used to attenuate a higher sensitivity driver? Reason I am asking is that it can be difficult to match mid/tweeter/midbass sensitivities for an active 3-way setup. Let's say that the midbass and tweeter sensitivity is 88db 1w/1m (4 ohm). And that the midrange sensitivity is 91db 1w/m (8 ohm). I think 91db 1w/1m@8ohm is the same as …

I have a 2002 Silverado 1500HD crew cab that I am wanting to put 2 xl 12s in. I will actually be underpowering them a little with about 1300 watts a piece when wired together to .5 ohms. I am not wanting a blow through I just want a box that may not take up too much room so I can have at least one person ride in the back. What volume would the box need to be? And how much port area?

i should have the money soon for the zcon 15 so i want to start getting ideas and thoughts on a box size for the sub. im putting it in my '95 ranger. for electric, i have a iraggi 260amp alternator, big 3, shuriken bt60 bat. and all 0 gauge wiring. i have a audioque 3500.1 that i will be running at 2 ohm (should have 2000watts which is plenty for 1 zcon 15) reason being is that it will be much easier on my electrical, and easier on the amp as well. im more for SQ on this build for those wondering. i love the low lowsss haha. i havent found any box recommendations so im looking for a bit of help. any is appreciated!

Hey guys, I know iv posted so many topics about my box but its time for another one. I WAS going rebuild my box for my 18" BTL N2, and make it closer to 7.5 cuft net. Iv been thinking about future upgrades though, and im thinking in the end of it all ill be powering my BTL off of two AB VFL 100.1's strapped (3000wrms). Now with that much power to my subwoofer, would 7.5cuft be a little too big? Iv been talking to one or two people about it and they said it might be a better idea to keep it around 5.5-6 cuft with that much power running to it.

Alright guys, im in college for Mechanic Apprenticeship and one of my courses next semester is Electrical Accessories, Guess what we get to build! A sub box, Considering i already have a daily box for my BTL 18, i was considering building something for pure SPL if i ever want to try out a competiton.. Anyways, i was just curious from your experiences what platform is the best for pure spl builds, just a basic slot port, 4th order, 6th order ect. (This will be in the trunk so no walls.) Once i get some information about this ill sit down and see what i can come up with.

I'm wanting to know if I build a box like this and would it be ok with the ports like this. It would go in a 95 honda accord 9.67ft^3 gross, 7.34ft^3 after ports, after bracing somewhere between 7 and 6.5cubes after bracing, depends on if i invert it or not thanks for any suggestions or comments

Alright, so iv been looking at the inside of my car lately and it makes me a bit sad. My car is black on the outside, with a 2 tone grey interior and wood trim pieces. What i was thinking is to get a bit creative and change up the looks of my interior. I wont be upholstering or anything, i was just thinking about taking off some of the pieces and painting them black... Not sure yet... Give me your opinion if youve ever done something like this. Heres a few pictures so you can see what im working with.

so im planning on building a wall in my civic soon just want some tips... how do i calculate the box when theirs curves i have to go around... also should i have the port on the top or the bottom of the wall ?? also does each sub need its own chamber ?? i have 2 18s so does the wall need a piece in the middle to seperate the subs ?

Hey guys, Will be building my first box in the next week or so and I really just want to make it right the first time so i would be really grateful if you could check over my numbers before i go any further. Specs 2003 Ford focus 12" SI Mag re coned with fi softparts. So basically its the same spec as a Fi Q Aim 32 hz @ 2.5cuft (biggest recommended box for this sub) Subwoofer displacement - 0.16 cuft Port Displacement - 0.69cuft (Really didn't know how to work this out! Do you calculate the port as a separate component or just account for the wood that makes the port if so this is wrong) Baffles displacement - 0.10cuft (in my design i have quite a few baffles to brace t…

I'm considering building a down fire for 2 D-CON 10's. Will be subs down,port back, box against back seat. Going in a Land Rover. I only cosider this because I do use the cargo area often and want keep the subs out of harms way. My question is how much room do I need between the floor and the woofers???? And should I just elevate the box by the end plates or do a 3sided lift leaving only the rear open???? Or is it a bad idea all together???? Is a daily thumper setup.......just want to keep my investment safe.

Alright, so only 10 days after i built my first box iv decided that its no good an i need to build a new one. Currently i have my box only 5.5 cubes for my 18" BTL.. with it only being powered by 1500 watts this isnt the most efficient setup. For my new box, i was going to build it closer to 7.5 cubes, sub up, port up. Now what i wanted to do was have the port 5-6 inches out of the box so that i could flush mount it to the rear deck, then seal the whole thing off from the trunk. The box designer says for 32hz my port will be 28.75" long, 8.5" wide and 13.5" tall. Now could i simply 'slide' the port out 5-6 inches or would that effect the tuning? Sorry if thats a bit…

So I had a box design done by someone that seems to be a reputable designer around the car audio forums, and I have a couple of questions about it. I have a FI BTL N2 12" D2 running on a SAZ-1500, 250amp alt, 0 ga wire throughout including big 3 and additional grounds throughout the engine compartment, XS Power d975 in the back, Optima yellow top up front. The design he gave me has a net volume of 4 cubes. Is that too big for that one sub? I told him I wanted a daily ground pounder that can kill some lows. Well it does destroy the low notes, but it seems to be pretty weak with the majority of rap/hip-hop songs, and doesn't sound real strong on rock or metal. I know the …

I am ready to buy enclosure design software, I want all the features available. I am thinking of buying Term-Pak. With Term-Pak I can later purchase Term-LAB meter as well. Term-Pak includes Term-Pro and Term-CAD 3D. Is this the best that is available? It looks like it was written in the early 90's.

I have a chance to pick up some 6" aluminum tube from work for cheap. Would this cause too much of a hollow sound or echo? I plan on securing them in the box. Possible having an end made that flares. Anyone tried this?

I am trying to find out how many cubic feet i would need for 6 SA-15s in a ported wall It will be ran by 2 2600w soundstream amps and I willl be playing rap and bass tracks.

I have a 2003 Pontiac Vibe and an AA Mayhem 15 and Im trying to figure out, ideally, what size box would give me best results and what way to fire my sub and port. Can anyone tell me how to figure that out? Like different variables associated with this. I was thinking sub up port back.

ok ok so i had a lil show today.... and i heard some stupid ass shit come out of peoples mouth... . and some shit that made me prove my point of running 15's IE "yeah fam thats why i like 12's you can hear them hoes from far away!. "yeah you cant make 10's loud " "i like 15's cause them hoes hit low you cant get that sound from a 10" " so you can make 12's loud like your 15's?? nah nah nah i dont belive that " but the good out of what i run.. "damn thats only 2 15s!!?? " " i thought it was 2 18s" i got two 15's but they dont hit like that " so anyway im thinking in the black town car i can do anything... and i was thinking 2 or 3 18's ... then i was think…

Ive seen people that compete use thin pvc pipes cut in half and taping it to the walls/edges of the enclosure. Does this help create better airflow? Increase SPL?

Ok, where do you guys buy your carpet for your builds? I want some really good carpet that doesnt have a bunch of crap on the back and is easy to use. I will be carpeting parts of my box, trim work and false floor. I've always used 3M 77 glue but I saw where some folks were spraying on that contact cement stuff. There really isnt much difference in the 2 right? I was checking out a lot of Thumper's enclosure builds and that guy did really good work. His forum looks like it hasnt been active in a while. Any idea what he uses? Thanks for any help. TST

Alright guys, I've had these Bravox 3 ways for a while now. My wife didn't want to tear into the van until the Atlas's had died and they're on the way out. The front passenger mid has been giving the "Death Rattle" from time to time and it's getting worse, so my wife is breaking down and wanting me to begin getting the design, supplies and such together to be ready to make a quick change and build for the new set. That being said, I have some idea's about how I am going to do it, but I wanted to run it by the great minds here and see if there's a better way to go about it. First of all, here's a picture of the inside of the van to give you an idea of what I have to wor…

Memphis doesn't carry them in their site. Did some searching but only came up with the subs or some other t/s parameters . I doubt the place that sells them here will give them up cause they make boxes. They are kinda like that. They gave me recommended optimal. The port however doesn't make sense. I used Torres calc. To do their recommended port size. It's way too small IMO. 4ft^3 for two 12's with a port of 12x2.5x19long which tunes it to 28hz. I wanted to get what the actual T/S parameters are so I can get an accurate idea of how to build it.