SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I am ready to buy enclosure design software, I want all the features available. I am thinking of buying Term-Pak. With Term-Pak I can later purchase Term-LAB meter as well. Term-Pak includes Term-Pro and Term-CAD 3D. Is this the best that is available? It looks like it was written in the early 90's.

So I had a box design done by someone that seems to be a reputable designer around the car audio forums, and I have a couple of questions about it. I have a FI BTL N2 12" D2 running on a SAZ-1500, 250amp alt, 0 ga wire throughout including big 3 and additional grounds throughout the engine compartment, XS Power d975 in the back, Optima yellow top up front. The design he gave me has a net volume of 4 cubes. Is that too big for that one sub? I told him I wanted a daily ground pounder that can kill some lows. Well it does destroy the low notes, but it seems to be pretty weak with the majority of rap/hip-hop songs, and doesn't sound real strong on rock or metal. I know the …

Memphis doesn't carry them in their site. Did some searching but only came up with the subs or some other t/s parameters . I doubt the place that sells them here will give them up cause they make boxes. They are kinda like that. They gave me recommended optimal. The port however doesn't make sense. I used Torres calc. To do their recommended port size. It's way too small IMO. 4ft^3 for two 12's with a port of 12x2.5x19long which tunes it to 28hz. I wanted to get what the actual T/S parameters are so I can get an accurate idea of how to build it.

I am trying to find out how many cubic feet i would need for 6 SA-15s in a ported wall It will be ran by 2 2600w soundstream amps and I willl be playing rap and bass tracks.

I have a 2003 Pontiac Vibe and an AA Mayhem 15 and Im trying to figure out, ideally, what size box would give me best results and what way to fire my sub and port. Can anyone tell me how to figure that out? Like different variables associated with this. I was thinking sub up port back.

As the title said I am looking for the best options for my install. I am thinking of just using the HU power beacuse I honestly don't want an amp in there right now. I have a mediocre at best JVC HU for the moment, and stock speakers. The dash takes 4" speakers and the back (which I could give a shit less about) is 6x8 IIRC. Sean (M5) had asked for some pictures with a 3" circle around the A pillar (if I understood right). Well Sean all I had laying around is a 2" challenge coin so hopefully this will work nonetheless. My goals are loud, clear-ish (not a SQ guru but I know what muddy music and just off music sounds like) music for daily driving around. Especially with t…

ok ok so i had a lil show today.... and i heard some stupid ass shit come out of peoples mouth... . and some shit that made me prove my point of running 15's IE "yeah fam thats why i like 12's you can hear them hoes from far away!. "yeah you cant make 10's loud " "i like 15's cause them hoes hit low you cant get that sound from a 10" " so you can make 12's loud like your 15's?? nah nah nah i dont belive that " but the good out of what i run.. "damn thats only 2 15s!!?? " " i thought it was 2 18s" i got two 15's but they dont hit like that " so anyway im thinking in the black town car i can do anything... and i was thinking 2 or 3 18's ... then i was think…

Alright guys, I've had these Bravox 3 ways for a while now. My wife didn't want to tear into the van until the Atlas's had died and they're on the way out. The front passenger mid has been giving the "Death Rattle" from time to time and it's getting worse, so my wife is breaking down and wanting me to begin getting the design, supplies and such together to be ready to make a quick change and build for the new set. That being said, I have some idea's about how I am going to do it, but I wanted to run it by the great minds here and see if there's a better way to go about it. First of all, here's a picture of the inside of the van to give you an idea of what I have to wor…

Ok, where do you guys buy your carpet for your builds? I want some really good carpet that doesnt have a bunch of crap on the back and is easy to use. I will be carpeting parts of my box, trim work and false floor. I've always used 3M 77 glue but I saw where some folks were spraying on that contact cement stuff. There really isnt much difference in the 2 right? I was checking out a lot of Thumper's enclosure builds and that guy did really good work. His forum looks like it hasnt been active in a while. Any idea what he uses? Thanks for any help. TST

hello everyone, im trying to help my friend build a box for his 2 15 inch dc xls . he has a mercury mountaineer like 2001-2002 model. he wants it ported, subs facing up and port facing back . the thing is he wants plexiglass facing the rear as well so we can see the subs. idk if thats good or bad to have the plexiglass and port on the same side? also if anyone can recommend a good site or program to help me do some designs .. he wants tuning at 35hz. or if someone can sketch up a design for me with measurements that would be great! please help a brother out lol. we're looking at 15 cubic ft of space or so for the box,

Hey guys, this is the very start of my first diy build, I've never installed a speaker in my life before today! But- I got the co-axial 6x9's into my doors this morning no problem! However, now I have a problem. I have a component set that I was going to run the 6.5's in the back door of my Jeep Grand Cherokee, and I was going to run the tweeters up front in the dash. It just so happens the tweets don't fit in the dash. Should I try mounting them on the back doors somehow? Or a pillar? Here are a few pictures. Any ideas on where to place the tweeters would be much appreciated, I'm fine with not having them next to the 6.5's. I have never worked with fiberglass, and…

Well im starting to gather all the parts to build an active 3way setup. I know what im getting into and i know its probably far more complicated than im expecting but i love the challenge. I plan to build pods for the midbass and midrange. The tweeters i plan to mold into the factory location on the door pillar say it stages correctly in that location. Im welcome to all suggestions when it comes speaker choice as im still considering lots of options. I tend to like a smoother highend with alot of punch in the midrange if thats of any help. As for budget ill put a max per driver price beside the speaker type. Im not saying these are for sure max but its what im tr…

well yesterday i took all of my max dimensions and came up with 7.1cf. and thats before port and sub displacement.... so i have a few questions about this.... 1. will this box (after sub and port displacement) be big enough (doing 1 big single chamber) & 2. what would be a good port width to go with? jaycee said tuning them @34hz would be a good start but im not sure on how wide to make the port. any thoughts???? 3. i was told that in a truck, having the subs and port both up gets the best results. is this true? im using 2 10" kicker solo x's

Wassup y'all, I'm about to start a box for a 21 in death penalty. I'm going for 9 cubes at 30hz with 3 8in aero ports which equals 150in of port area. Is that too much? I've heard the sub will not handle much power? Someone help me out haha

I designed Shogen a box, I just want him to see what it should look like when he's done. And I SUCK at Sketch Up. Who's good?

So my build calls for my 4" aeros to be about 38" long so I have to do some piping in my box with 90 and 45 degree turns. When measuring I'm assuming I stay in the middle the whole time and measure flare tip to tip? The turns are what throw me off when measuring. Thanks guys

I am in the process of selecting drivers for a 3-way active setup in my car. I drive a small four door sedan. My design goal is to achieve a realistic soundstage. I will not be using rear fill. I will be using two 12" subwoofers for the substage. For processing duties I will be using a JBL MS-8. I had tossed the idea of using HLCD's but I realize that that maybe more difficult than what I have the patience for I do not have time to 'glass kick pods or build crazy door pods. So the install of these drivers will be somewhat simple but I realize that I may need to do a little fabrication. All drivers will be aimed accordingly. But generally this is where the placement will…

i just got paid, and have 70 dollars to spend, so which is a good palm sander, and where to find it thanks

Hi, I was wondering if anyone has made or heard a sub placed between the front seats. I have a venture mini van. I can have about 1cf of space to work with (id). If you have done this or heard a setup like this please let me know what you thought. Thanks, Duane

I have 15" height with 38" width in my trunk. If it could be made down to 36" width and just longer that would be great. I'm going to be housing two SA12s on a 1500d. Specs of the site say 1.75 each at 30 hz so 3.5 at 30 should be right then correct? If it helps I always listen to rap with a lot of low notes. I currently have a design from this site for a 3.2 cube that I will build tomorrow but if someone can help me out with a design tonight that would be great. 3/4 MDF. THANKS!

Over the course of a few years, I've seen many different positioning ways for kick pods. Is there one way that's the best for imaging but due to the different dashboards on vehicles, you see some positioned differently? I'm assuming it also depends what speakers are mounted in the kicks. I'm using exodus ex-anarchys for midbass + midrange. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538 I'm using peerless hds tweets for the highs. http://www.europe-audio.com/Product.asp?Product_ID=5233 Due to the size of my kick panel area and the relatively large mid driver, one of the drivers is going to be slightly tucked under the dash. I'm assuming it's better to "tuck"…

I am thinking about putting 2 SA-8 in my truck. I have a reg cab 03 S10. I need something small cause of the room issue. The box calculator on the RE Audio site gave me some weird dimensions. Like the port only having .25 inches gap to the back plate with a fz of around 33hz. Does that sound right? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

Okay I'm seriously considering going active for a few reasons: I want midbass with authority, hopefully better sq since I can tune everything, and I like to fiddle and adjust shit like crazy so this will give me something to work on and "perfect" so to speak. Tweeters and or mid range can fiberglassed to a-pillars or installed in dash. I'll likely try both. Midbass 6.5s will be in kick panels. I once heard a hybrid audio demo car and it has 4" mid ranges, 6.5" midbass, and 8" subwoofers, no tweeters, and it sounded awesome. Not saying that I'll be able to get away with not using a tweeter. Let's start from the bottom. Midbass I'm looking at: peerless sls 6.5s http://www.m…

How does this look for a box plan. I am looking at going ahead and buying a 21in DP since I have plenty of airspace to work with. I also wanted as much cone area as possible that would be ok powered by my Saz-1500v.2. This would replace the rear seats in my 07 F250 and would be at window line. Goal is to hammer the lows, get loud as piss and sound good doing it. Will this work or should I change anything. Sub / Port will be facing forward. Around 10cu tuned at 30hz I got no responses in the IA section so it may be better suited here.

I need some music in the garage while i work on my car so it's not dead out there... I have spare parts from car audio that i will use, so as u see, nothing in specific like building in the car... I have a 10" sub Audiobahn Eternal wired to sundown 100.4 bridged at 8ohm. Outputting only ~108w on a test tone is PLENTY of power for this 10" sub. It can successfully drop down to 20hz on some custom music i made so i know it's not a bad driver to use for simple music setup. Now, the box i have it in is not suitable.. but i have a problem... The low end extension doesn't become really audible below ~30hz unless i am standing 20ft away from it. How can I get decent low end outp…