SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I have a 95 caddi deville, and i would like help in building a ported SQ sub box for two Dcon 12D4's. they will be powerd by a RF power T500-1 dbcp 2010 model. My bass gets trapped in the trunk,so i cut two 4" round holes in the rear deck to let sound inside the car. will the 4" holes change the tuning of a ported box? All help welcom. thanks

Hi guys, I currently run a Fi BTL N2 12" on a Sundown saz 3000 amp. I have no problem with the electrical, even if I know I may not push all the watts this amp can deliver ! My box was designed by Bromo of Eclectic Design (or something like that) : 2.1 ft3 with a slot port (32 hz tuning) firing through the (driver) side. The sub is firing up. The box is well braced too. It sounds good, but I want more output ! I can have another box built easily, and I already own two 4" flared (on both ends) ports. Those ports are in a 3.2 ft3 box used for a Soundstream XXX 15", for now. But I can get it back fast. This box may be too big for the 12" btl. What do you think about it ? I n…

hey guys, i need help making the design for a optimal sealed box for my 2 12's. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/product-information/icon.html\ the problem i have is i have a rather small vehicle and the space the box has to sit in is 33" wide and 18" high but to get it in the tallest it can be is 16" if anyone could build me a diagram or point me in the right direction it would be a HUGE help. thanks in advance, zack

max dimensions are 17"h x 31"w x 27"d i will be running a crescendo bc2000 thinking pretty much the same thing anton miller has setup in his cavi it seems to be really efficient i want to be able to hit the low's really well so im thinking 30hz tuning ? this is what i have come up with so far 27w x 16h x 25d using 3/4 mdf should get me 5 cubes after sub displacement of .14 i should be at 4.72 using a 6" aero tuned to 30hz i need 14.5 inch flared and with port displacement i should be at around 4.5 cubes witch is max recommended for the sa-12's if im doing something wrong please let me no i plan on building tomorrow

posted by ohjay is he a hater or did he just get a shitty box Bah, you don't want the POS box that comes with them, you're better off with the prefab boxes. I have one that was built by Kevin and the baffle flops like a fish out of water with 175 watt rms subs.

I have a single ported kicker CVX 12" in a custom box which I built, IT sounds nice. It is powered by a kicker 750.1. The box is tuned to 34hz i believe and is 2.25 cubes. The audio is nice, a nice mix between power and quality, the way I like. But Im looking to go bigger which is difficult because I have a volvo. I came upon an AMAZING deal. I am getting TWO kicker L7's and a 1500.1 kicker amp. Each L7 requires 3.23 cubes ported I believe. THER IS NO ROOM FOR TWO PORTED IN MY TRUNCK. But each one only uses 2 cubes sealed. MY QUESTION IS: Would I get more sound (louder) with one CVX 12 ported @ 750w OR would I get more sound (louder) with two SEALED L7's @ 1500w? I KNOW s…

This is my first box im going to build, and its going into a 95 honda accord. I may increase the height to 17 or 18 if i can fit it. I talk to guy at my local audio shop and they would charge me $250 to build it and he told me not to use a areo/tube port that is was 90's tech and nobody uses it now and slot was the way to go. I wanna use a tube port to save space. What are you guys thoughts on this box

so i need the calculations needed to figure out my problem(or the answers) with this build want it to be a true not done on a online cal.(unless one will give true port cal within a 2hz of needed frequency) box 20h*48*40*d using 6in PVC? thanks to all that have any input for me. its 4 15s and want to tune between 30 to 34hz.

So I got a box off ebay. Omg yes I did it. I am looking at it. Fits well looks good it's solid but the inside shows a different story. My speaker cups have huge gapr around them where air can escape. The glue is not thick or sealing the box very well. No I am not building a new one. a few questions. 1= What would you use to reglue it from the inside?? 2= What would you cover the terminal holes with?? 3= what are you installing the speaker with??

the box specs 48w*40d*20h port is in the center 18.5h*14w*22d what would this tune to and is it to much port for this box.goals daily ground pounder. subs 4 15 db drive plt15wd 2500rms

My original box was the one recommended from ssa and it sounded good but the wife wants more space in the trunk so I have to do something different. So I need a box with less depth preferably ported still and a little longer tuned to 32hz. I don't understand how to use the box calculators I have found. Heres what I have to work with as far as area: 32"long x 16"high x minimum depth of the sub which i'm unsure of. The sub is 6" deep so I'm guessing a 1/2" more than that is minimum Basically I just need a longer less deep box that will still sound good. I listen to mainly rap/hiphop and some d&b. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Well, it seems that i will be getting these subwoofers a bit quicker than i thought.. Haven't order them quite yet but i decided that getting a ported box design ready couldn't hurt. Trunk Dimensions: Height = 19" (So i was thinking box should be around 17.5" maximum) Width = 36" (Narrowest point near the back seats) = 47" (More towards middle of trunk) Depth = 36" (Need room for battery, amplifiers, ect.) Now iv never dealt with Q's before so im not really sure what i should tune the port for.. It says anywhere from 28-33hz, now i listen to all types of music so i was thi…

So i built a 4.6cf box, tuned to 32 hz for a DCON 15. This is a big box. (at least for me) So I braced it very well. Is there anything else that should be done? Should anything be put inside the box? Like Dynomat, acustastuff? etc... Thanks, Duane

Hey all. I have my Fi SSD 15 in a box right now that is tuned wayyy to high. So I was crunching some numbers for a new box. Here are the specs, can you all look over them and see if everything is correct please? 28" wide 17" tall 28" deep Port: 4.5" wide 15.5" tall 41" long Sub up port back. 3.9 cubes net, @ 31hz, 17.88 sq in of port per foot Also with that box, should an SSD 15 hit the lows pretty good?

if i bought 10 of these and made a super big ported box ( i think they are supposed to be IB?) would it sound worthy of the money i spent (slightly more than the daytons)? spl is more imporant, but sq cant just be dismissed. I found a ultra cheap in-wall 8" subwoofer. 22 bucks. thump option 2 I would be using those instead of four dayton 12's Boom option number 1

whats up yall i just finished the box today for my custom forevrbumpn kevlar 12". box is 2.49 cubes after displacements and tuned to 33.2hz on paper. pics you say?? and heres some of the sub...

i tried using torres calculator from the smd forum, ya not very good at it. i have 2 sa 12s. and i would greatly appreciate it if someone helped me out. I have a 98 chevy blazer so space is not an issue.

Alright, iv basically all over the map trying to consider what type of subs i wanted. Iv made up my mind now and i kind of wanted to know your opinion. I was thinking about going with two Fi 12"Q's, OR two Fi 15" Q's in a ported box, running off a Crescendo BC2000D. Now in order to eliminate trunk rattle, i was told sealing it off from the trunk and firing it forward was a good idea. The only problem is that i cant fold my rear seats down, now i do have the option of buying rear folding seats for about $300. I guess i dont really have a specific question.. just tell me what you think, any improvements or different ideas you think would work best. Since im…

a. Subwoofers in question, number of subwoofers & subwoofer size: Dual SA-10's b. Amplifier being used, specifically the model number: 1200 watt Hifonics Brutus (will probably end up upgrading it to a 2000) c. Fabrication skill level: will be made by a box builder d. Preferred material to be used (i.e. MDF, fibreglass, etc): mdf e. Vehicle which the subwoofers will be used in: 93 toyota celica f. Musical preferences: rap g. System goals: SPL all the way h. 37 Hz range i. max dimensions: 38 length x 20 width x 16 in height

I am thinking about picking up a new ride to play with and probably compete in. i know CRXs are concidered "loud" but what about a camaro. Similar shape. much bigger ballz! anyway i was wondering if anyone has seen any loud camaros at the shows.

Yup, I think it's worthy of a new thread. Tomorrow I have to lug this PC out into the hot muggy humidity again, cuz as if it wasn't enough that the guy made me realize I could/should get so much more out of my tweeters with his Memphis 5.25 coaxials shredding my drums, but he went to bragging that his Anarchys and/or SA pro 8's could prolly do well in the 129dB class. So for the fun of it I went out and dropped the PXA-H701's from 50Hz to 25Hz, still 30dB/oct, left the Kicker at 50Hz 12dB/oct.... cuz I keep thinking about how the REW sweeps showed a cliff dive at 125Hz peaking again at 65Hz for another dive. I can turn them up to the same volume with no clipping, no excur…

I think the biggest thing that caused my van build to sink right away was my decision to place the front stage drivers in the ceiling. Right away everyone was angered and outraged that i would put such great drivers in such a terrible location. However, my point of view is that most drivers are placed in the doors...where the seat, floor, and human body block, deflect, absorb, and tamper with the sound in every way. If the drivers are down on the floor in kicks and down in the door, they are faced up to raise the sound stage. How is that different than putting them up high and facing them down? I am sure that it does make a huge difference, so if I was out strictly to com…

My brother is getting an IDQv3 12" sub. Going to be powered by an arc audio 600w amp. Down the road he's going to get another sub and another amp to match. Our budget is drained so I'm going to attempt to build the box. I wanted to go ahead and build a dual 12" ported box tuned at 30Hz. and just use one side for now. Any recommended web sites and pointers would be greatly appreciated. Some questions I have are what's the best to hold the box together. Pre Drilled hole and screws, or staples, or glue, or all the above. Round port vs. rectangular. Which direction to aim the port. Should I aim subs toward the back glass tilted slightly up.

a. Subwoofers in question, number of subwoofers & subwoofer size: Dual SA-10's b. Amplifier being used, specifically the model number: 1200 watt Hifonics Brutus (will probably end up upgrading it to a 2000) c. Fabrication skill level: will be made by a box builder d. Preferred material to be used (i.e. MDF, fibreglass, etc): mdf e. Vehicle which the subwoofers will be used in: 93 toyota celica f. Musical preferences: rap g. System goals: SPL all the way h. 37 Hz range

Has anyone ever put an center channel in a late 90s model Chevy / GMC ??? Truck or SUV (same dash literally where the defroster vents are concerned) ... I know there will be ALOT of work to go into this ... most likely will never happen, but, you never know... I'm not really concerned about it helping or hurting my stage and image at this time ... I'm just interested to see if it has been done ... I'm considering either a 5.25 or 6.5 driver (full range) ... Thanks in advance ...