SPL & SQ / Fabrication

so i need the calculations needed to figure out my problem(or the answers) with this build want it to be a true not done on a online cal.(unless one will give true port cal within a 2hz of needed frequency) box 20h*48*40*d using 6in PVC? thanks to all that have any input for me. its 4 15s and want to tune between 30 to 34hz.

Well, it seems that i will be getting these subwoofers a bit quicker than i thought.. Haven't order them quite yet but i decided that getting a ported box design ready couldn't hurt. Trunk Dimensions: Height = 19" (So i was thinking box should be around 17.5" maximum) Width = 36" (Narrowest point near the back seats) = 47" (More towards middle of trunk) Depth = 36" (Need room for battery, amplifiers, ect.) Now iv never dealt with Q's before so im not really sure what i should tune the port for.. It says anywhere from 28-33hz, now i listen to all types of music so i was thi…

if i bought 10 of these and made a super big ported box ( i think they are supposed to be IB?) would it sound worthy of the money i spent (slightly more than the daytons)? spl is more imporant, but sq cant just be dismissed. I found a ultra cheap in-wall 8" subwoofer. 22 bucks. thump option 2 I would be using those instead of four dayton 12's Boom option number 1

Hey all. I have my Fi SSD 15 in a box right now that is tuned wayyy to high. So I was crunching some numbers for a new box. Here are the specs, can you all look over them and see if everything is correct please? 28" wide 17" tall 28" deep Port: 4.5" wide 15.5" tall 41" long Sub up port back. 3.9 cubes net, @ 31hz, 17.88 sq in of port per foot Also with that box, should an SSD 15 hit the lows pretty good?

So i built a 4.6cf box, tuned to 32 hz for a DCON 15. This is a big box. (at least for me) So I braced it very well. Is there anything else that should be done? Should anything be put inside the box? Like Dynomat, acustastuff? etc... Thanks, Duane

a. Subwoofers in question, number of subwoofers & subwoofer size: Dual SA-10's b. Amplifier being used, specifically the model number: 1200 watt Hifonics Brutus (will probably end up upgrading it to a 2000) c. Fabrication skill level: will be made by a box builder d. Preferred material to be used (i.e. MDF, fibreglass, etc): mdf e. Vehicle which the subwoofers will be used in: 93 toyota celica f. Musical preferences: rap g. System goals: SPL all the way h. 37 Hz range i. max dimensions: 38 length x 20 width x 16 in height

Alright, iv basically all over the map trying to consider what type of subs i wanted. Iv made up my mind now and i kind of wanted to know your opinion. I was thinking about going with two Fi 12"Q's, OR two Fi 15" Q's in a ported box, running off a Crescendo BC2000D. Now in order to eliminate trunk rattle, i was told sealing it off from the trunk and firing it forward was a good idea. The only problem is that i cant fold my rear seats down, now i do have the option of buying rear folding seats for about $300. I guess i dont really have a specific question.. just tell me what you think, any improvements or different ideas you think would work best. Since im…

I am thinking about picking up a new ride to play with and probably compete in. i know CRXs are concidered "loud" but what about a camaro. Similar shape. much bigger ballz! anyway i was wondering if anyone has seen any loud camaros at the shows.

Yup, I think it's worthy of a new thread. Tomorrow I have to lug this PC out into the hot muggy humidity again, cuz as if it wasn't enough that the guy made me realize I could/should get so much more out of my tweeters with his Memphis 5.25 coaxials shredding my drums, but he went to bragging that his Anarchys and/or SA pro 8's could prolly do well in the 129dB class. So for the fun of it I went out and dropped the PXA-H701's from 50Hz to 25Hz, still 30dB/oct, left the Kicker at 50Hz 12dB/oct.... cuz I keep thinking about how the REW sweeps showed a cliff dive at 125Hz peaking again at 65Hz for another dive. I can turn them up to the same volume with no clipping, no excur…

I think the biggest thing that caused my van build to sink right away was my decision to place the front stage drivers in the ceiling. Right away everyone was angered and outraged that i would put such great drivers in such a terrible location. However, my point of view is that most drivers are placed in the doors...where the seat, floor, and human body block, deflect, absorb, and tamper with the sound in every way. If the drivers are down on the floor in kicks and down in the door, they are faced up to raise the sound stage. How is that different than putting them up high and facing them down? I am sure that it does make a huge difference, so if I was out strictly to com…

My brother is getting an IDQv3 12" sub. Going to be powered by an arc audio 600w amp. Down the road he's going to get another sub and another amp to match. Our budget is drained so I'm going to attempt to build the box. I wanted to go ahead and build a dual 12" ported box tuned at 30Hz. and just use one side for now. Any recommended web sites and pointers would be greatly appreciated. Some questions I have are what's the best to hold the box together. Pre Drilled hole and screws, or staples, or glue, or all the above. Round port vs. rectangular. Which direction to aim the port. Should I aim subs toward the back glass tilted slightly up.

This is my first box im going to build, and its going into a 95 honda accord. I may increase the height to 17 or 18 if i can fit it. I talk to guy at my local audio shop and they would charge me $250 to build it and he told me not to use a areo/tube port that is was 90's tech and nobody uses it now and slot was the way to go. I wanna use a tube port to save space. What are you guys thoughts on this box

a. Subwoofers in question, number of subwoofers & subwoofer size: Dual SA-10's b. Amplifier being used, specifically the model number: 1200 watt Hifonics Brutus (will probably end up upgrading it to a 2000) c. Fabrication skill level: will be made by a box builder d. Preferred material to be used (i.e. MDF, fibreglass, etc): mdf e. Vehicle which the subwoofers will be used in: 93 toyota celica f. Musical preferences: rap g. System goals: SPL all the way h. 37 Hz range

whats up yall i just finished the box today for my custom forevrbumpn kevlar 12". box is 2.49 cubes after displacements and tuned to 33.2hz on paper. pics you say?? and heres some of the sub...

its for to 10's

max dimensions are 17"h x 31"w x 27"d i will be running a crescendo bc2000 thinking pretty much the same thing anton miller has setup in his cavi it seems to be really efficient i want to be able to hit the low's really well so im thinking 30hz tuning ? this is what i have come up with so far 27w x 16h x 25d using 3/4 mdf should get me 5 cubes after sub displacement of .14 i should be at 4.72 using a 6" aero tuned to 30hz i need 14.5 inch flared and with port displacement i should be at around 4.5 cubes witch is max recommended for the sa-12's if im doing something wrong please let me no i plan on building tomorrow

So im making a thread that may help people in the future on different enclosures for different applications. So what are the physical differences in an spl enclosure compared to a daily driver enclosure or sq enclosure? What separates the two into different catagories? for example does a box that is bigger and tuned high make it a spl enclosure or vise versa? Thanks in advance for your expertize.

Only one sub rite now the other one will be in on Tuesday. Box is 7.1 cubes tuned @ 30hz Hit 144.4 sealed up at 43hz without much testing. 146.7 outlaw.

Has anyone ever put an center channel in a late 90s model Chevy / GMC ??? Truck or SUV (same dash literally where the defroster vents are concerned) ... I know there will be ALOT of work to go into this ... most likely will never happen, but, you never know... I'm not really concerned about it helping or hurting my stage and image at this time ... I'm just interested to see if it has been done ... I'm considering either a 5.25 or 6.5 driver (full range) ... Thanks in advance ...

Want your guys opinion on this. On my HHR wall, Im thinking of covering the inside of the ported chamber in suede as opposed to painting it. Would this affect sound or performance any?

I am about to start a build log (finally) but I want to get some final suggestion(s) on my Front stage. It's going in a 1998 Honda Civic 2-door coupe. Big 3 in 1/0. 170 amp alt. XS Power D680 and D5100R (front)-1/0. 4 gauge to amps from D680 that is in the rear. Kenwood 942HD head unit, I use the cross-over controls on the head unit. Previous setup...Kenwoods 5 1/4 co-axials...Front....Pioneer 6X9's in rear. (in car when I brought it) 2 ch 2 ohm (200x2) on the Sundown 125.2 I didn't like it...sounded OK (on mainly Pop and Hip hop) , the rear was always louder than the front stage (which was irritating at times). It wasn't very balanced. I listen to all music Jazz…

I was wondering if I could use metal L brackets in the inside or outside the sub box the reduce the vibration or flex? I saw the wood ones, but those take space inside the box and my box is quite small and I don't wanted any more smaller.

i tried using torres calculator from the smd forum, ya not very good at it. i have 2 sa 12s. and i would greatly appreciate it if someone helped me out. I have a 98 chevy blazer so space is not an issue.

i need a box build for my sa-10's

VanEQWizard Background noise floor fluctuates from 65dB to 78dB... pretty bad when nothing is playing! I can read these pics off PC but not from the threads so: 5.22% 300Hz sounded so much louder than 200Hz yet it was so much quieter... that is why KW likes a U shaped FR curve, more and more exaggerated as you get further from the middle 1.97% 1.97% 1.42% .844% .937% .253 .235 .235 .402 .217 .576 .229 .270 .259 .376 .208 .672 idk what happened .0343 IDKY but dist stopped showing here. I was clicking it though. couldnt even hear 18,000 so i stopped after it