SPL & SQ / Fabrication

So I decided to make an amp rack. I figured I could make a simple wall cut-out with some simple cardboard templates and a skil saw. I spent the better part of the afternoon doing this. A Crescendo 3500 will go on this rack, I plan to make holes and grommets for all cables. I will put any distribution blocks or speaker terminal bays underside and or speaker connector block thing (Don't know the name). I'll update this as I finish it, and post it in a build log later. Just wanted to share what I did today! It's my first time, far from perfect or even clean looking. But this is a passion and a hobby of mine, and I want to do this all myself and learn from experience. I …

alright guys, reason I'm wanting to get one is because here in Laredo TX there are only a hand full of people who have one car shows consist of ear-o-meter which does not do justice trying to see which meter i should purchase I'm looking at Term Lab http://www.termpro.com/store/shopexd.asp?id=25 let me know if you guys have any other options or ideas thanks in advance!

Hello everyone. I am redesigning my enclosure for my 15" ethos for different mounting options. When I use the Torres calculator I am using the total net feature with 3 cu ft and also 3 common walls since it is a slot port. Using a port that is 4x18.5 at 56" long gives me a tuning of 31.94 hz and 74 in2 of port. Then when I use the same size port in the carstereo.com calculator it tells me 48.5" of length is required to give me 32hz tuning. So my question is which one should I use. In sketch up I am designing the port by measuring down the center. Thank you in advance for the help.

so i was told my wall was too big, lol which it is 16 cubes for 4 12"s, but beyond that, we still get a solid 152 on 1900 watts clamped, looking to gain fairly large numbers (1.5 db) without increasing power and withing 2 weeks lol. but i was told about a rear loading wall, the guy told me that he stumbled across putting a "wall" inside the wall that has around 2-3" of gap between the edges and was at a slight angle, claims to have gained him 8 db (i doubt it, but he has all the equipment to know what he did and how much it gained). what do you guys think of this, all i can think of is that is sounds like a bandpass with some sort of a horn effect to it... im not sure…

Well the classes are now set and instead of using 4 ohm ratings since there are too many Grey areas I am using rated maximum rms power at the amps lowest rated ohms. That way a 1 ohm 1000 watt amp is still in the same class as a 2 ohm 1000 watt amp. This will also make people see the difference between the swap meet power amp they bought compared to a real rated power amp in the same class and should bring those customers to the retail store instead for their next purchase especially if the retailer explains why his B.S rated amp just lost to the real power rated amp.The classes are more geared to the normal customer more than the bigger powerhouse systems but still allow…

So i've been doing some reading and I'd like to seal the rear vents in my '06 tahoe. I've never worked with sound dampener before but I think that's the best route to go..Any suggestions as to what I need to buy or the best way to do this? Pic of someone elses truck an the vents in question:

posted by ohjay is he a hater or did he just get a shitty box Bah, you don't want the POS box that comes with them, you're better off with the prefab boxes. I have one that was built by Kevin and the baffle flops like a fish out of water with 175 watt rms subs.

I have an old lanzar max12 subwoofer. My friend wants to get a system for his car but really dosnt have much money for one. If i put the max12 in a custom made t-line box that i made and gave it like 200rms would it be decently loud? Or is there something else i should do to get the most out of it? Im being paid to install everything and make his box so i do want it to turn out very nicely if possible. What does it usualy cost to wire for an amp and just put the box and sub in? (iv done all my own stereo on my own so idk how much to charge him...)

I currently have 2 SA10's in 2.5 cu ft net tuned to 32hz. They are running at 1 ohm off an SAZ-1500D. I'm pretty happy with them, but the box is the wrong shape to fit where I want it. This is going in an 03 Lincoln town car on the hump behind the seat on top of the gas tank. I have 41" of width, 18" of depth, and 10.5" of height. So I should be able to get 2.5 cu ft net, but just barely. One reason I'm considering the skar subs is that I get a free box. I can get 4-8's in a custom ported box shipped to me for $500. Or 2-10's for $380. I've been thinking about 8's since the sa8 came out. And the box would look nicer for 8's since I could do a flush mount baffle. I don't h…

I'm going to build a box just want to know were to buy mdf

whats the smallest ported box, but most spl with 1100w. its going in the trunk of a 94 corolla so size is a issue. thanks jamie

Im designing a box for my new improved build and i jus want to verify that im doing it all correctly. The box will be for two 15 inch SSA EVIL series subs. But for right now i have two dc lvl 4 15's that will go into the box temporarily. So it will be designed mainly around the EVIL's. The car its going into is a 2007 Scion Tc. I measured out max dimensions and came up with a box that i think turned out very well. i wanted it tuned low, mid 30's and low 31's maybe. Heres what i came up with::: Pic from sketchup (Copied and pasted from MS word) Box Measurements Maximum limits for the SCION TC Width = 37 inch max (pushing) …

Has anyone done any TL testing with a vehicle before bracing and after bracing? Mainly looking for daily driver type results. I've added sound deadening to my vehicle (2002 volvo v40), in hopes of getting rid of rattles and other annoyances. I haven't applied any treatment to the roof yet. Once I have the subwoofers playing, I'll be able to tell if / how much it needs to be deadened & braced. I'm just toying with the idea of bracing the roof with 1/8" steel strips, bracing door sheet metal, and other flexing panels across the vehicle. So not doing any stripper poles, or bolting shut doors. Just curious if it would be worth it, if there would be an audible increase in …

About to start the new enclosure for my 2 zcon 12s. It will be a trunk wall. I will be trying a 10 inch round port this time. I'm wondering how many cubic feet you guys think I should aim for with the new enclosure? ? Will have an aq3500 at .5 on them but Will be adding another 3500 as soon as I can find another. . Going to be tuning around 33-34. any suggestions?

Ok guys i have a 2006 charger. It supposedly has a 180 amp alt in it. Over the past few weeks i have done everything i could possible think of to get rid of this alt whine. Change grounds on the HU and the AMP.Changed RCA's. Ran an isolated ground to HU from the battery. Gave the HU an isolated power to an external battery. Seperate ground to the alt with the stock wiring in. New alt power wire with the stock wiring as well. Took the serpantine belt off the pully's to see if there was any catching in the alt(no catching nor was there an play in the alt shaft). Went and got the alt tested today its a good alt. Got the battery tested and its a good battery. The only time th…

Just bought 2 of the old version BTL 12s loaded with the 3rd mag and everything. But Im trying to save space for more room for my batteries and amps. My amps are going to consist of a T40001BD and a T5002. Im going to do a semi blowthrough in the trunk of my Thunderbird in which the back seats do not fold down but Im going to cut out the rear armrest and use it to help let bass escape into the cabin. I wanted my enclosure to be subs and ports forward sealed off from the trunk. I'll have about 8" between the back of the seat and the front of the enclosure. My deminsions will be (double baffled) 15"H x 38.25"W x 23"D. After sub displacement,bracing, and 45 degree corners (r…

I haven't had much experience with the science behind port tuning/building, but I've been doing a little research and some calculations and have a question concerning port "size". Let's say I have a 1 cu.ft box, and I want to put a aero port in it with a tuning of about 33hz. I used a calculator and I came up with a 2" diameter port with a length of 6.3 inches.. or a 3" port with a length of 15+ inches.. My question is, what's the difference in having the 2" short port as opposed to the 3" long port and achieving the same tuning? To me it would just seem logical to go with the small and short port to save space and material, and just be an overall convenience.. but this i…

Hello today i went to my local come depot and they didnt have mdf wood all they had was particle wood, if anybody knows where can i get 1 inch mdf wood at please let me know I AM A be building a box for my btl 18 pretty soon thanks.

anyone with the skills necessary to design a simple ported box and looking for a lil extra cash.. please reply.. need a box design ASAP

Ok in the cargo area I got 38Wx20Dx22H. Was gonna only have it 20" high but bumped it up a lilttle to get as much box space as available. According to a box calculator on the12volt.com puts me at 8.01cf, figure about 7.5 after sub displacement (i think thats about right). I tried figuring out for ports and when I put in a 4" aeroport tuned to 32Hz put it at only 1.5" in length.....this does not seem right to me. I tried figuring out for a slot port at 4"x18.5" tuned at 32Hz put the length at 18.9". A 2"x18.5" slot only comes out to 8" of length. Does all this seem right? Tried to mock something up in google sketch but I failed pretty hard at that. If I can't figure thi…

Ok so I am going to build my 3rd sub box and i want to know how to cut the bracings and that stuff. And how to port/tune you box. I am going to put it in a car and i want the sub facing upward and the port too. I do not want an L ported i want like square type one. My sub is a 12 Fi SSD. I want it to use half of the trunk but not be so tall just like an inch after the sub fits. But mainly i just want to learn how to do square ports. Any help plz.

Assuming all have the same sealed/ported volume and same port size. I know the pics aren't to scale so don't take that into consideration. I have seen pretty much all of these types used, so I know any would technically work but I wonder about cancellation with all but # 2. The box would be for 8 10's, tuned to 45hz with about 35 cubes total if you're curious. I would have never considered facing subs at each other in the past but I've seen some of the loudest 4th orders with subs facing right at each other like design 1 and 3 so it might not be as much of an issue as I was always told. All are 4th order walls in case that wasn't obvious and the crap drawing is an overh…

I want two 15 in icons in my trunk but idk if i have the room. I want a ported box. Trunk dimensions are 4x3x1.5. Amp is crescendo bc2k if anyones wonderin

** Coles notes: 12" BTL (D2, loaded, Daily). Maximum Dimensions: 31" x 16" x 18". Want to hit the lows better. ** What is required to build a box specifically for lows. Larger box? More/less port area?.........etc. I had a BL last year, and have "upgraded" to a BTL this year. I have two boxes that were used with the BL, one built by Thumper and another I did myself. The PTS box is tuned to 32, I think mine might be tuned lower, not really sure. Used subwoofertools.com back in the day, and it told me it was 32Hz after displacement. It's 27" x 16" x 18" with port 14.5" x 2.5" x ~33". 3/4 MDF. When I put those dimension in RE Calculator it comes up with 29.81Hz (before dis…

can a fully loaded BTL 18" take for SPL burps ? provided with of course the proper ho alt & batteries need some info for planning a set for comp use