SPL & SQ / Fabrication

My setup is gonna be 1 Fi audio BL 15" dual 2 ohms. what should i tune my box to so i get maxim SPL!!!

Where can I get Bassorcist tracks? I see people playing them all over youtube but I cannot find anything!

I'm thinking about trying out a new enclosure for the Xcon's. Current box is 7+ cubes I'm thinking about going sealed and having them firing up. However, I don't think I'm going to like them sealed. If I do a new box and it's sealed, I'd like to keep within these dimensions 48" w x 16" d x 12" h And if I do another ported enclosure, I'd cut the width down and just build a taller enclosure and tune it to 30-33hz. Let me know what yall think and what suggestions yall may have. Thanks!

I'm looking into getting a new 10" sub, I have had a fiaudio btl and after that experience everything in my truck is loose. I am looking for the best bang for my buck in a sound quality sub, I have considered a fi Q, I have heard good things about sundown audio. Any suggestions?

as topic states, who is going? competing or spectating? Me, competing in 601+mod, gonna get my butt handed to me but its all good.

Hey everyone, So ive desided to build my first sub box and am pretty much lost. I have 2 10" Alpine type-s subs being powered by a MRP-M500 alpine mono-block. At the moment i have them in a pre-fabbed folded horn box and just want an upgrade. On the Alpine site, they list the"optimum" vented box's stats which are tuned to about 36hz, which sounds good to me. So..... Would it work if i built 2 seperate boxes that share a single wall seperating the two? If i did that would I run one vent for each side and keep all the stats for each box to alpine's site? Ok, this question is confusing me just thinking about it so if it doesnt mak…

Ok I was looking at my trunk and if I want to make a 8 cubic foot box the only way I am going to be able to do it is make an odd shaped box ported, or do aeroports. I am just wondering how I would tune a 8 cubic foot box after displacement for 32 hz with aeroports. I am kinda new to these and I was looking at info on how to use them and I am just majorly confused.

Hey fellas, After being away for a while from the car audio scene, a friends prototype actually grabbed my attention and I decided to get one. The only downside to this is it is super long (around 17 inches). If any of you guys remember CoDrive, then you know pretty much about this sub. For those of you who do not, it is a double motor, double vc design for one sub. It uses 10" spiders, custom machined sundown motors for 8 layer flat wound 3" voicecoils. This beast will have a good amount of excursion and kill the lows. With that said, it will weigh in at about 100lbs (doh). I was looking at designs, messing around with some myself, playing with bbp (that thing doesn't l…

Looking for a box design for my 12" GCON. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Want to learn how to fiberglass? check this tutorial out, he knows what he is doing. http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/...ad.php?t=416484

Ok guys, I was looking into a few stats on bench testing, and noticed that amps wired to ".5 ohms nominal" could see up to 1.5 ohms in reality. So, with that in mind, I read into box rise and all that good stuffs. I was just wondering, If I skip terminals on the box altogether and run wires through a small hole (that would be sealed up after of course) or out through a port would this help at all? Or would the longer length of wire just defeat the purpose? Thanks in advance, as always.

Hey all.I just got a 2007 dodge caliber and im wanting to get a system in it.I have my max deminsions that I wuld like to use.They are 38W x 23H x 11D .My question is what would be the best route to go?Im wanting like 4 10's, specifically FI BL 10's.but not sure if I have enough rooms for them.So would I have enough room or would I need to go a different route? OH and I would have the subs and port facing the hatch.Thanks and let me know if this would work or if I need to go a different way.

So I have searched a little and really haven't found out much info. I read somewhere that fiberglassing the inside of your enclosure makes it weak. why is this, is it because of the heat and chemicals released during drying and curing? Is it really necessary for a box that will only see a occasional romp on a lane? Please discuss.

Im designing a box for my new improved build and i jus want to verify that im doing it all correctly. The box will be for two 15 inch SSA EVIL series subs. But for right now i have two dc lvl 4 15's that will go into the box temporarily. So it will be designed mainly around the EVIL's. The car its going into is a 2007 Scion Tc. I measured out max dimensions and came up with a box that i think turned out very well. i wanted it tuned low, mid 30's and low 31's maybe. Heres what i came up with::: Pic from sketchup (Copied and pasted from MS word) Box Measurements Maximum limits for the SCION TC Width = 37 inch max (pushing) …

Going to be making my own port flares.. My dad works at a machine shop and has access to a lathe with will make things easier. He's gonna make me a mold so I can just fibreglass over it to make my flares. Now, I was hoping I could get some help with dimensions of the flare, it's going to be a 10" port, and I need to know what diameter to flare out to, and how deep to make the flare. Iv heard add 4" to the diameter but that could be total BS, but iv got no clue as far as how deep the flare should be.

here is a pic of my trunk: I have a 12'' DC lvl 4 sub. I drive a sedan. I like to listen to a lot of pop rock // pop punk // metal music, some have fast bass drums//guitars I think I'm going to go with some type of ported box, which should I go with? a slotted, vented, ported, or what? Can anyone help me design a box for my subs? I also don't know which way to port it, towards the trunk? I'd like to have the box toward the side of the trunk, so I can still fold down the back seat and access the trunk.

ok ok so i had a lil show today.... and i heard some stupid ass shit come out of peoples mouth... . and some shit that made me prove my point of running 15's IE "yeah fam thats why i like 12's you can hear them hoes from far away!. "yeah you cant make 10's loud " "i like 15's cause them hoes hit low you cant get that sound from a 10" " so you can make 12's loud like your 15's?? nah nah nah i dont belive that " but the good out of what i run.. "damn thats only 2 15s!!?? " " i thought it was 2 18s" i got two 15's but they dont hit like that " so anyway im thinking in the black town car i can do anything... and i was thinking 2 or 3 18's ... then i was think…

What up SSA. Thinking about ordering a single Gcon 12" and running it ported but just want to make sure my calculations are accurate before doing so. Volume (Net): 1.81^3 ft Dimensions: 13.5" (H) x 30" (W) x 12" (D) Tuning: 32.75Hz Number/Size Port: 1 x 4" Flared Port Length: 15.5" Port Area (per cube): 6.94"^2 Vent Mach: 0.11 Is there enough Port Area? Is this a good size/volume for a 12" Gcon? Also, I plan on placing the woofer and port on the same baffle, on opposite ends. This would require a 90 degree elbow bend for the port but there should be over 7" of space between the end of the port and the subwoofer so I don't think that will be a problem.

I recently opened up a tint shop and have had a lot of customers wanting audio, so I just picked up the Sundown line. I've been an installer for 14 yrs now, but all the shops I've worked at did cookie cutter systems with pre-fab boxes so I never really learned how to make a box and match it to the subs. I've built plenty of boxes, so the actual building is not what I'm looking for it's just getting the correct size and port length I need. I see a lot of threads recommending box calculators like torres ect. which I've downloaded, but I don't see how you're converting the sub specs to box design. I found the AJ vented designer program which does this (I'm looking to built m…

So I've modeled my Crystal cmpx2 12" and it is completely flat from 30Hz + in a 2.1 cubic foot box tuned to 22.8 Hz. That's perfect but I'm having a hell of a time putting it together. I have my max dimensions but I'm stuck. It's a slanted box in the back. Can someone put something together so that I can get this built asap? Height can definitely go down, and width can definitely be made smaller, but I'd rather it be wide over tall just to look symmetrical. I dunno why but I'm insanely anal about symmetry. 40"w x 18" tall x (9 1/4" d1 /// 14" d2)

Currently I have four Kicker Comp 15s doing a pretty good #, really pounding for a street beater on such a low budget. In the vehicle, we have room for a 4th Order Bandpass. I used a calculator from www.carstereo.com to design one but doubt its accuracy. Can anyone aid me in designing a 4th order bandpass, or link me to a site with theory/equations for one? Simple calculators are hard to trust w/o knowing the math behind them!!

Have a 12" GCON in a sealed box. It sounds great but I am wanting more and I know the sub will give it to me if I can put it in the right enclosure. I used the ICON enclosure design for the sealed box it is in now, would the ICON ported design work well for the GCON as well? It falls into the optimal range, 2.5f^3 tuned to 33hz. It is a 2 ohm sub with 500 watts powering it in the trunk of a '96 accord. I have about 32" x 20" x 18" to work with. Anyone have any experience or recommendations for a ported box design that will work well with the GCON?

I have been approached by a customer with 4 Kicker Warhorses and 4 Kicker Solo X 18s. He is having me build a 1990 Astro van to be all out SPL. i am looking for any help in the matter of tips, tricks, pointers, etc on how to do this install. Lexan windows are already in plans. Concrete floor will be a must (how do i do this? how thick? what kind of concrete? just the cabin or all the way back?). Lowering roof (how should i do this? what should i use?). Custom Dash (what do i use? how should i construct it? what shape?). Center Counsel (should I build one? just leave it open space? what should I build it with? how should design be?). should i cover the wall floor roof dash…

ok so my bro has a 15" l7.... seems to be alot of these mentioned in the forum lol. right now its in a sealed 1.5 cube box. a kenwood kac something something powering it with 900rms. car is a mercury sable with the mach audio system. currently the amp is using a loc to get single but my bro will be geting a mtx req or similar device later this year. theres no deading in the car and it rattles like crazy as is.... sorry to anyone who has heard and affended by the rattle... hes geting like 2 rolls of raammat for xmas from my parents we picked up some mdf and liquid nail today and plan to do a new box for the sub. im hoping to do a ported box with a pretty spl oriented de…

Not really sure where to post this but in my 30 yrs experience I've never seen anything like this and thought I'd share. I bought my 16 yr old daughter a beat down Toyota Avalon for her first car. It's got a junker JVC head works but the sound was extremely anemic. I popped the trunk thinking a cheap set of 6x9's would be a quick fix but these cars never had rear deck speakers. Well shit, I'm pullin door panels. That's when I saw them. ABS ported enclosures? Harmon made? The factory speakers were trashed, foam surrounds completely gone but I was intrigued. I grabbed a set of 4"ers, went to install and found out they're 4 1/2" holes. Cant really open the fronts up …