SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Memphis doesn't carry them in their site. Did some searching but only came up with the subs or some other t/s parameters . I doubt the place that sells them here will give them up cause they make boxes. They are kinda like that. They gave me recommended optimal. The port however doesn't make sense. I used Torres calc. To do their recommended port size. It's way too small IMO. 4ft^3 for two 12's with a port of 12x2.5x19long which tunes it to 28hz. I wanted to get what the actual T/S parameters are so I can get an accurate idea of how to build it.

This has nothing to do with audio, so if this is in the wrong section, I apologize and feel free to move it. The package tray for my hatch was broken when I bought the car. Looks like someone put something too heavy on it and cracked the structure inside. Can I lay chop mat down on top of the carpet and resin it or will the resin not adhere to the carpet? I'm just looking to do the underside of this to make it rigid enough to hold it's shape again when it's in the car. I've heard you should lay rope or something similar to give the mat a corrugated look for linear strength. Here's a picture of the underside of the tray where I'd like to strengthen it. The carpet is hook…

I have an audiopulse axis 15 and a saz3000. I finally got my non-blown sub in the box and in the car. I was tunin it all and saw my hair movin it the window, so i got my gf to come over for a try at a hair trick. enjoy

I was told by a former "audio guy" that althought 3/4 MDF is used in car audio enclousers, 3/4 partical board could be used to reduce the weight of the encloser. How tru is this?

I've used the original without problems for quite some time. I upgraded to the pro version which has a lot more features but never could get it to work. It would always crash or show errors when I loaded the T/S parameters. Fits of rage and nearly throwing my laptop under a moving bus. Andrew Vaserfirer from HTS figured out the solution. After doing it exactly how he told me it works perfect! I wanted to pass along the info since I know several people have had issues. Again, this is all compliments of Andrew. Ensure that 'Auto calculate unknowns' is on even if you have all the data. This is recommended because WinISD Pro can be very picky about the data and if it is e…

Ok guys here's the deal...... I've built two boxes so far this summer and have had problems with both of them. I need to know the best spot to put the port in a regular cab truck, preferably a Ford Ranger. First Box: This one got pretty loud but there was a ton of port noise. It is 1.1@33hz with a 3'' aeroport up-firing. The reason I ditched it was the port noise and I didn't like how it fit behind the seats....too deep at the top. New box: 1.1@33 again with a 3'' aeroport. Now it fires into the corner about 4'' away from the side panel. The output dropped rediculously and also the bass is just so flat sounding....it sounds horrible. What should I do? I'd appreciate he…

I have 2 Assassin Series 8's I need to know how to make the port and how big. The box I have a pre made it is this http://www.millionbuy.com/hbx8antcm.html its .51 cubic feet any help would be great

I have 1 06 Kicker L715 in a ported box in a 2004 Isuzu Rodeo. Im gonna build a new box first the measurments are Build the enclosure to internally measure 5.0 cubic feet. Use a port opening that measures 50 square inches (3" X 16") and a port length that measures 15" deep into the enclosure. Im looking for a little sq but mostly spl. Its goona be tuned to 33hz. Is that good for what im looking for. My amp is a KX1200.1 and its wired down to 1 ohm. Thanks for any input

so in a month or 2 i will be starting on my rebuild to run 2 old style XXX15's, 2 sundown saz-1500d's and other goodies i haven't decided yet(sound deading, comps and such). well, what my plan is on running these is to seal my trunk off from the cabin. for the box i want to forward fire it along with the port. from where i see it the baffle will sit 2-3 inches from the rear seat opening. the trunk space i have available is 40" wide, 17" tall, and about 29" deep. though for the size enclosure I'm going for about 6cu before displacement. i believe i have about 8-9cu before displacement total. here is a quick sketch i drew up on a graph paper. each cube length stands for 1" …

i'm getting ready to wall of my car @ the b-pillar, w/ a series tuned 6th order bandpass for my 2 15's i'm hoping to be in the 150's w/ this setup. here is the plan for my wall, and a pic of the old setup.....(except i'm running soundstream dbx 15's, not the RL-p's) what do you think???

can you guess what im going to put in the old F-150 @ least till my new subs come in ...

This is my first box im going to build, and its going into a 95 honda accord. I may increase the height to 17 or 18 if i can fit it. I talk to guy at my local audio shop and they would charge me $250 to build it and he told me not to use a areo/tube port that is was 90's tech and nobody uses it now and slot was the way to go. I wanna use a tube port to save space. What are you guys thoughts on this box

Hey everyone. I purchased an SA-8 after reading a ton of reviews and now i am ready to start building a box. Since i've never built a box before i downloaded a couple of programs which apparently i have no concept on how to use :/ I listen to a variety of music from metal to dubsteb so i'm looking for a a box that can do both SQ and SPL. From what i've seen online it looks like .6^3 box tuned to 35hz is the way to go. Sub is going to have 500rms at 2ohm feeding it. I was thinking of having the sub point towards the roof and the port firing to the back. The narrowest point in the vehicle is 38". I emailed ram design to see if they could design me something but i haven't…

I am building my first box for my 4 aa's ported to around 25-28 hertz and about .75 cubes per chamber any tips its going in a 1994 gmc serria reg cab.

Next weekend I will be starting a new box build and was hoping to get some help from yall on an enclosure design. I could probably do what I did last time, just use RE calc and Google Sketch to design. However, I hear too often that the RE calc is not very accurate and tuning can be very off. I want to build this box to last me a while, so I'd like to do it right the first time. - Subwoofers being used are 2 AudioQue SDC2.5 15" - Power will provided from a SAE-1200Dv2 @ 1ohm - I'm not the best wood worker, but i can get a simple box built. I've done one already. I have a Jigsaw to do the cutting. Not the best, but it works. - I will buy MDF from Lowes. - Build will be for…

Please contact Josh at http://www.facebook.com/#!/josh.w.hart or http://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/449888281732464/ and PLEASE tell him I sent you! He is truely a great guy to deal with. I was sent to him from Duran. He responds very fast, and is easy to deal with. He has just finished up my design for my 18" SSA Evil and really went above and beyond my expectiations. This is not just any ordinary designer who build an enclosure around your limited space. He actually aims for your goals and utilizes your intended goals into every aspect of the enclosure. When you message him, I would suggest to include any additional information that you may think that could help the desi…

I am looking for a box design for 3 audioque HDC3 10's my trunk specs H 16 in L 43 in W 36 in the mouth of my trunk is 44in looking for a 4.5 cuft box tuned to 36/37 hertz i don't know how much port area though,

I have a FI SSD 15. (bp power, flat coil) I currently have it in a 18x18x38 box tuned to 34-36hz somewhere in there. aprox 4 cubes. Im thinking of building a new box, what should i tune it to, and how many cubes? i find my box has a slight bit of port noise because there are no 45s and it doesnt go as quite low as i want it to. Iv heard other ssd 15's hit harder than mine, so im trying to squeeze every thing i can out of the sub. also with the box the way it is now, what should my Amp be set at? Lowpass and subsonic? If it matters: its going in a crew cab GMC, powered by a AQ1200. thanks, in advance all help is appreciated

So I ordered a BTL 18 today, and I think I'm going to base my enclosure off the one for the XCON optimal one thats here on the site. It says that box is tuned for 30 hz. Fi recommends tuning to 32 hz for the BTL. I don't really figure that the 2 hz will make that much of a difference, but I could be wrong. What I'm planning on doing is putting the port on the other side of the box, so that the driver would be facing up towards the roof of the vehicle, and the port would be facing forwards, toward the front of the vehicle. My question is will putting the port on the wider side of the box, (25.25 in. vs 22 in.) put me closer or farther away from the 32 hz? Also, I'm plannin…

Am trying to figure out the port area for round ports in my design. Am going to build an enclosure that is 4 cu.ft. after all displacement turned to 30Hz for a 15" Fi Q. I know that for a slot port, that its length X width to calculate port area (i.e 14 X 4 = 56 sq.in. of port). I also know that for a round port, that its Phi X radius sq. to calculate port area (i.e 3.142X4 for a 4" pipe = 12.568 sq.in of port). This is what am not understanding is, to get the needed port area for using 4" port in a 4 cu.ft. enclosure, you would need about 4 or 5 of them, or am i just full speed down the wrong side of the track? I was going to use a slot port but decided that it would ea…

I'm going to be building a small aero ported box for a friend soon, but he doesn't want to spend the extra few dollars to buy real aero's. He wants to go with just straight PVC pipe instead. Yes, I explained port noise and the advantages of having flared ports. Anyway, what's the best way to mount PVC pipe externally on a box? There's no flare to screw into the wood, only a straight pipe to sit inside the cutout. I'm having trouble trying to figure out the most stable and secure way of attaching the PVC. Thoughts?

Here is the quick rundown: 4 Soundqubed HDS300 FS 33.65 hz QMS 6.912 QES .769 QTS .692 VAS .782 Ft3 Outside dimmensions of box: 16.3"x41"x27" = 10.44 all setup in a common chamber Port size: 8"x40"x65.88" @ 30 hz I believe this is all correct but what a double check before I build this box. Thanks

Does port/woofer aiming really matter that much in an SUV? I'm looking at placing the box in the passenger rear corner with the woofer firing cross cabin and port forward.

So after taking a bed apart a few days ago i discovered the mass use of MDF used in the bed's structure. Now if i wanna build a box for my 18" btl, people always say use 1/2" MDF. How important is that 1/2" ? Why does it need to be that thick? For structural/support reasons? the MDF from the bed is 3/8" and i'm going to go buy the 1/2" just because everyone on here says to do it and i trust them, i was just curious. I have like...50 square feet of the stuff.

I want to build a sealed box behind the back seat of my 08 Dakota Crew Cab. There is VERY little space back there, to the point that to get my airspace, I need to get rid of the back wall of the box. My idea is to use some damplifier pro or spectru sludge on the cab wall to create the back wall of the enclosure. Am I on the right track? Or is there a better way to do this. This is the only location I can use, due to restrictions from my wife. Thanks Rob