SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I am curious whether or not a 220 Amp alternator would support a Sundown Saz-1500d v.2?

I'm having trouble designing a box for the two Dreadnauts I'm getting in April. I don't know if I should have both of them in the same box or have two so they take up less space? I would like to have them in separate box's that are taller and narrow so I can still put stuff in the back of the suv. But when I try to look up the Recommended Enclosure I don't understand it. if someone could give me some pointers I would be thankful. I have never made a box before so this all new to me I will put all specs I have on the subs. Recommended Enclosure Vented (Net) Port Specs …

I'm designing a new box and have a sort of kink in my design. I'm looking to do a baffle with a 30 degree angle in it. Now the issue with this that I do not know the clearance for the sub since it will be angled downwards. It is a 15" Havoc (standard basket), and I just wanted to know if anyone had any ideas about the clearance. I basically need to know how far above the bottom of the baffle the sub needs to be to clear the bottom piece. Thanks!

have an 18" aa havoc and it's going into a 98 pontiac bonneville....want to build a ported box inside the trunk but i don't really know where to begin....the box has to be 6.0 cubic feet after displacement and tuned between 28-30 hz. thanks

I'm trying to build a box for a single FI BL 15, fully loaded. I want it tuned around 32-33 hz. Also my trunk in my car is kinda small height wise, so I was wondering if it was possible to put the sub on the top of the box and lower the height a little bit so the sub doesnt get close to the top of the trunk. The port I want on the front. Is that possible? The dimensions I have so far are: Width - 32 Height - 14 Depth - 25 Port Height - 12.5 Port Width - 5 Port Length 1 - 19.25 Port Length 2 - 8 62.5 inches Total Port Area, 3.8 ft^3 for box. Tuned at ~32. Would it be possible to put the sub on top of the box with this design, and still have the port on the front?

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00964473000P I found one of these at a local pawn shop and was wondering if it would be worth picking up for 50 bucks. The one at the shop has a attachment that looks something like a router and has a circle cutting attachment among other things. Really would just need it for cutting circles, and then possibly other household things. Sorry if this is in the wrong section didnt really know where to ask about tools here.

I will be installing a budget audio system in my 2008 Hyundai Elantra four door. I will be running a three way front stage. I am using Viper Audio 650.2 passive component set. They are metal dome tweeters with 6.5" midrange and crossovers. The tweets are harsh and the 6.5's lack midbass. I picked them up bnib cheap.... I will be using a Boss REV-665 four channel for power. Again got the amp cheap..... Channel 1&2 for the component set and channel 3&4 for 6.5" woofers. Mounting: tweeters in A-pillars aimed at each other, 6.5's midrange in custom kick panels aimed at dome light, 6.5 woofer in bottom of front doors mounted behind factory door panels and aimed at each…

Ok in the cargo area I got 38Wx20Dx22H. Was gonna only have it 20" high but bumped it up a lilttle to get as much box space as available. According to a box calculator on the12volt.com puts me at 8.01cf, figure about 7.5 after sub displacement (i think thats about right). I tried figuring out for ports and when I put in a 4" aeroport tuned to 32Hz put it at only 1.5" in length.....this does not seem right to me. I tried figuring out for a slot port at 4"x18.5" tuned at 32Hz put the length at 18.9". A 2"x18.5" slot only comes out to 8" of length. Does all this seem right? Tried to mock something up in google sketch but I failed pretty hard at that. If I can't figure thi…

Um.... its me again i might need a box design either for a kicker solo baric 15' s15l5 for an explorer...... Or im am going to try to buy a fi btl 15' either one would be nice to have a box design for both of these are going into the back of a 95 explorer.... I do not have the messurements quiet yet but i should have them tomorrow.... I do not need anything special just a simple design to get me by for the time being....

After searching for a subwoofer I have decided on the DCON 12" it seems perfect for what I am looking for. My question is regarding the box I saw the recommended plans were 2.25^3 at 30hz I think but I have plans already for a 2.5^3 box tuned for 35hz. Would the sub work well in that box or should I scrap it and just build the recommended one. I also have a 350 watt alpine amp, would it be ok to run the dcon at 350 watts? Thanks in advance for any advice/help. - Alex

i got a bigger amp for my 10's and now my back wall of my truck flex's way to much ...it has a knocking sound i can make it stop buy pushing as hard as i can on the consol ...what would be the best way to stiffen the wall...the box is bolted to it but only at the bottom ..i could put some more bolts into the top but im not sure it would end it ...another idea i have is to weld some tubing to the back of the wall inbetween the cab and bed ..well here is the only pic i have to show where the consol meats the wall

Ok guys, Who wants to be first and jump in on some sketchs/layouts for me? :-) Ok here we go, I have a Fi SSD 15 on the way with a sundown 1200d But no box to put it in. So here I am, I need some help with a box layout The dimensions I have to work with are 29" wide X 31" deep X 18" Tall. If possible I think a Face up Back port would be the best for my car, But if im wrong please let me know. Thanks in advance ~Tyler

I'm planning on securing my sub box to my trunk using L brackets. I'm also putting in a plywood floor so I can mount amps/batteries/etc to it also. But my question is that, when using the L brackets on the box, do I just bolt straight through the side of the box? And if I ever move the box to another vehicle or change the arrangement, it will have a handful of holes in the side? Just seems odd. Is this the right was to do it though?

Well, a buddy of mine has one of these, it's a single cab, long bed. He just got a new, sweet ass small block 350 in it, sounds mean. But his audio, just makes me want to cry.. Stock 28 year OLD 5x7's in the rear, if what he told me is right, and it has no front speakers, doors or top of dash. Well, I told him I could fabricate him some 6.5's into his doors, there's plenty of space, and I was just wondering how would I do the wiring since it doesn't have any power options in the doors what so ever. So what I'm asking, do I drill a hole into the side of the door near the inside of truck and vise versa and find some rubber grommets or what? Thanks for helping!

Hello, I am building a box for a friend and I had my MDF all ready to cut, measured out panels and everything and he calls and tells me that he want an aeroported box. I have searched and read different things in this section and after figuring out slot is actually a lot more different than aero ported, I just don't get it. So, I have come for some box designing help. Dimensions: Depth: 16 Height: 16 Width: 40 It is for an Fi X 12. Was hoping for 2.0ft^3 at 32hz I really just need to know how many flared aeroports I would need with no port noise. Diameter and Length of the aeroport would be nice. Thanks in advanced, Jay

I have the Morel Dotech Ovation 6 two way set and was wondering if I could still use them to go three way sometime next year. I actually was thinking of using the Selenium 6 inch midwoofers as midrange or should I just get another midrange for this? I actually was told to use the Morel midrange but some say go with Hertz Audio midrange. What you folks think and I am going active with this in the future. Thank you.

If I have a box that is 36" wide by 22" deep by 24" tall how big would I want my port for tuning it to 32hz? Its for an 18" n2

After doing the math i come up with a .825 cubic foot enclosure which doesn't seem to leave me with room for ports. Can someone help me out here please? What should my internal volume be? I used the box calculator at the12volt.com, is there a different calculator I should be using? Thank You to anyone who can help me.

I remember talking to shizz and a few other box builders on here and they all said "if the box is built well enough, no bracing is needed". Well is this true? I am working on a new box for my 15" - 38"w, 18"d, 16"h. I dont think I need bracing for a single 15" in that box, but I could be wrong (its a little oer 4.5 cuFt with port tuned to 32hz). I have been looking at other posts for people building their box and its either hit or miss for who does what with bracing. The one I just finished looking at is using bracing for a smaller box so once again, I am not sure. Forgot to add in - I will be putting a DC Level 5 15" in the box being powered by a 3500D

I need some help would u guys recommend a figerglass box and mdf or jus an mdf box I don't know much about mdf an fiberglass boxes it's for an 18" btl

So the plan was to build a trunk box that was larger with more port area than the box I had previously but I ran into a bit of an issue much too late in process.... After we finished the box, I tried to slide it into the trunk. Didn't fit Damn you Corolla and you're itty bitty trunk opening. Inside of the trunk would have fit it fine but it could not be fit through the opening. Sooo, I have another backseat box. LOL It sounds insanely better which is a plus, but I guess i still fail a bit in the end. It'll do for now... 4 cubes @ 31hz, 18 sq inches of port per foot. Tell me what you think. (Besides telling me it needs to go in the trunk )

This is the final version of what's going into the back of my truck. (1) About 20 ft^3 box (2) ~15 ft^3 after port and displacements (3) somewhere around ~220 inches^3 port area (4) tuned to 32hz Thanks! * If you can't see the image then flickr is blocked where your using the computer.

I've spent a couple hours sketching up various designs on re calc and torres box calc. However, all I hear about any of the box design apps out there is that they are total crap. Working as much as I do these days I simply don't have time to become an expert in this area. Also understanding that install is a huge factor, I don't want to screw the design up. I am looking to build something this Saturday and want to get it done right so I don't have to change it again because of an improper design. I know there are a bunch of you out there that can do this stuff in your sleep. I don't mind paying for a solid design with cut sheet, etc. (i have PayPal) I also don't need anyt…

So, in an effort to be cool I have been looking at getting a proper enclosure for my 12" Icon. Spoke with Andrew and I'm possibly going that route. First I'd like to find someone more local than across the US. I'm in Jersey and need someone close by if possible that can design/build an enclosure to spec for my boom boom. ... Anybody here on the east coast with the skills and tools?? Please let me know... Thanks!

Okay, So to find out what Hz my car peaks at, do I try out different test tones to see which one is the loudest in my car? If so, then what do I do from there? Say my car peaks at 37hz...do I tuned my port to 37hz? Reason asking is because I built a 2.5cuft. net @ 32hz enclosure with a 4" aeroport. I can take it out and cut it down for SPL. I just want to do it right since I only have one tube insert left. I'm aiming for SPL, not a fartbox. Thanks!